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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Coat
Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots. Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France". This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076) Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30166/
Hat
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30163/
Pumps
Pumps of black satin and black kid leather. Vamp with cutwork in leather forming a modified sunray or comet design centered on circular metal button set with rhinestones. The cutwork is embellished with black jet beadwork. Louis XV style heels covered in black satin. Stamped inside one shoe in gold, partly illegible: "Kasson's / Knickerbocker / Cincinnati" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30028/
Platform Lace-Up Sandals
Pair of platform sandals. Silver leather covered black plastic(?) sole with silver metal lace and cords. 4" spike set-back heel. Marked in relief on sole of each shoe: "Made in France". Anonymous gift to the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30024/
Body Suit With Tunic
Ensemble consisting of two pieces. Base garment is a light green knitted silk jersey bodysuit with over-length sleeves and legs. Zipper closure from throat to lower back at center back, with one hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Over the bodysuit is a tunic/tabard formed of two long rectangular panels of black silk with white printed polka dots all over. There are thin "straps" simulated at shoulders where panels meet, and a slightly rounded neckline. The panels are sewn at left side for 17 cm. below arm and open the rest of the length. On right side are three snaps and one hook-and-eye closure. The left shoulder is sewn shut, while the right side opens with hook-and-eye closure. The panels are lined in shocking pink silk. Label in bodysuit: At inside left back, just beside zipper: "Rudi Gernreich". Labels in tunic/tabard: At back inside, just below neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"; At front inside, just below neckline: "Rudi Gernreich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30029/
Coat
Coat of black wool and chinchilla fur. The full-length black wool coat is tailored to fit at waist and flares out at skirt. Long sleeves, and center front opening with 8 circular buttons covered with same black cloth, and 3 hook-and-loops spaced along the opening. The coat has a Peter Pan collar of brown and taupe striped fur identified as chinchilla. From the hips down to the hem is trimmed with matching fur, arranged so the stripes run horizontally around the skirt of the coat. The coat is fully lined in black cloth. Single retailer's label at inside back of collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30101/
Ensemble - Vest and Pants
Ensemble consisting of a vest and pants. The vest is of wool,with a scoop-neck and with 5 hook-and-eye closures down center front. It is covered in sewn-on black sequins, and has a 1" border of orange, white and gold beads with gold trim at neckline, front opening, hem, and armholes. On the front and back of the vest are 3" diamond shapes formed of the same beads. The white and orange beads are plastic. The vest is fully lined in black fabric. Labels in vest: "Valentina LTD / RN 34435 / Made in Hong Kong"; "100% Wool / Made in Hong Kong"; and "Medium". The pants are formed as a divided skirt of black wool in a satin weave simulating crepe-back satin. They are floor length, with full-length accordion pleats. There is a wide 3" waistband that is completely beaded to match the vest. The pants have a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband, and are unlined. Inside the pants is a single tag at waistband: "Lot Number 11/12". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30302/
Hat
Hat of yellow straw. The woven straw hat has a boxy, cylindrical crown, flat on top. The brim is also of yellow woven straw, and turns up to to vertical very close to the crown forming a high "wall" around the crown. Crown is unlined, with a pink grosgrain ribbon inside around the base of the crown. Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Frank Olive". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30307/
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirts and Blouse
Ensemble of rose silk. The suit consists of a jacket, two skirts and a blouse. The jacket is made from a 1930's sari of pale pink silk embroidered with gold and silver threads, beads, and pink sequins in designs of vines, flowers and abstract line patterns. Jacket has a floating yoke and full leg-o-mutton sleeves with long narrow cuffs that have zipper closures. The jacket itself has a center front opening with no closure. The neckline, edges of closure, hem, and cuffs are edged in heavily beaded bands added by the designer. Designer's label sewn inside back at neck: "Richard Brooks". The blouse is of heavy pink silk, collarless, with round neckline. It is short-sleeved, with pleating at the shoulder. Vertical seaming on front and back for structure. There is a concealed center-back closure with snap at top and 5 clear plastic circular buttons down the length. The blouse is lined in a dark, dusty pink silk and has sewn-in shoulder pads. Designer's label is sewn inside back to the left of the opening: "Richard Brooks". The two skirts are are both of identical pink silk, matching the blouse, of identical construction. One is knee-length, and the other is full-length. Both are lined in the same pink silk as the jacket. The short skirt has designer's label sewn in at waistband: "Richard Brooks". Worn by Governor Ann Richards when she spoke at the Gridiron Club in Washington, 1992. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30304/
Dress
Evening dress of orange/tangerine silk chiffon with cut velvet fish scale design in silvery white partly outlined with silver bugle beads. Sleeveless, with round scoop neck, and armholes cut to waist. Straight tubular shape with drop waist, with a swag of pleated self-fabric at left hip, trimmed with five rhinestone medallions. 1" fur trim at hem. Dress has been shortened and fur may have been added at that time. Probably originally 1918-20's style. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30088/
Purse
Purse. Ornate bell-shaped silver (plated?) frame with openwork latticework set with red and blue cabochons and with silver (plated?) chain. Body of purse is of crocheted gray with vertical stripes of horizontal rows of faceted blue beads. Bottom of bag with fringe formed of loops of matching beading. Lined in gray satin with roses and vine trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30089/
Hat
Hat of printed polyester/synthetic fabric. Cylindrical crown with slight domed top and short, sloping brim, both covered with same fabric printed with "windows" design, some with central images of drums, harps, guitars, roundels, etc. Two bands of same fabric are sewn under brim to extend down and back to connect at back of wearer's head to secure hat. Inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Hat lined in dark olive green fabric. Part of uniform for Braniff International Airways flight attendants. Label inside at hatband: "Adolfo II / New York Paris". Designer's signature in print: "Emilio" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30083/
Hat
Hat of camel-colored cashmere felt. The crown is roughly cone-shaped, swelling at center and flattened at an angle at the top. Near the bottom of the crown is a band of black grosgrain ribbon, below which the hat swells out to become the asymmetrical brim. At center back is black grosgrain ribbon bow, to which is attached trailing golden tan/brown ostrich plumes. Inside crown is hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn onto the inner ribbon is designer's label: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30104/
Handbag
Large Handbag. Rectangular gilt frame with ball/snap closure set with cabochon green stones. Body of bag formed of red, silver, grey, and black beads in a mosaic/Turkish carpet pattern. Bottom of bag with beaded fringe matching body of bag. Lined in pale peach satin with one pocket and attached small coin purse. Sewn into lining is woven tag "Made In France"; Marked on frame "Made In France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30017/
Handbag
Beaded handbag. Rectangular gilt metal frame with suspension chain and ball closure. Body of bag is covered with multi-colored glass beads forming a picture of a bird and flowers amid scrolling forms, same image on each side. Bottom of bag with blue beaded loops of fringe. Interior lining of blue satin, with attached circular mirror on a ribbon. European, either Paris or Vienna. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30010/
Skirt Suit
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30019/
Evening Gown and Stole
Evening gown and stole of silk satin; 2 sided fabric. Gown of deep red silk satin; sleeveless; sheath; large bow draped over right shoulder; fitted skirt; flounce from side seam creates half-circle; 2 self covered button accents; inner hem has horsehair braid and netting for structure; With stole of silk satin; deep red and dark blue; floor length; connected to make slight armholes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30016/
Dress
Dress of polychrome cotton print. The floor-length dress is of cotton fabric with a raised "zig-zag" texture, in the style of cotton piqué weaving. It is printed with a series of horizontal bands in geometric designs in blues, reds, greens, tan/brown, orange, and purple. The sleeveless dress has a shallow boat neckline in front and deep squared-off neckline at back. The fitted bodice section ends at the natural waist, into which the long skirt is slightly gathered. The front of the skirt has two patch pockets of the same material, with the print matched to disguise the pockets. One of the lower bands of the skirt is embellished with applied non-functional circular gold-colored "buttons". The hem of the dress has a 7 cm. wide band horizontal band of red wool trim, from which hangs red wool fringe. The center back zipper closure has a single hook-and-eye at top. The dress is lined in red fabric. The dress has two labels sewn inside. At left side at seam is designer's label "Lanvin / Paris New York"; at right side near zipper is size label "6". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30013/
Evening Shoes
Pair of red satin evening shoes. The deep red shoes have pointed toes and 3 1/2" stiletto heels which are lacquered red with tiny white dots and embellished all-over with rhinestones. Marked on sole: "6 / 1/2 / B / 05" and "Made in Italy". Label inside right shoe: "Vaccari / Italy Bologna". Stamped inside left shoe: "Made in Italy for / Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30215/
Hat
Hat of bright, light orange felt hat. The domed crown is wrapped with a "pleated" pale orange silk chiffon band, over which is a second layer of a very light gray/smoke colored net. The orange felt brim curves downwards. The underside of the brim is lined with the orange felt, while the crown is lined with white silk with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30217/
Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts
Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt. First image shows: a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell". b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York". c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". The second image shows: a) Vest, described above. b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30187/
Dress
Dress. Bodice of dress is made of chiffon with printed pattern of pink, red, green, blue, and purple swirls and bands and stylized foliage, woven with gold metallic threads forming paisley designs throughout bodice. Slight standing ring collar. The collar, waistband, cuffs, and bands running from collar along shoulders and down to cuffs are all trimmed with wide bands of gold braid/cording. The knee-length skirt is of red velour printed with large floral pattern in pink, purple, yellow, and dark maroon/brown. Reverse box pleat at center front, and zipper closure along back of garment, with three large gilt filigree buttons at collar. Cuffs also have 3 gilt buttons on each, with hidden snap closure. Dress is lined in pink fabric. Designer's label sewn inside bodice: "Ronald Amey / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30188/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of paisley velveteen. The circular, domed hat is made of a velveteen fabric with printed paisley pattern in shades of green, red, brown, purple, cream, etc. At top of hat is a ball of the same materials. The entire hat and ball have added sewn-on colored rhinestones scattered throughout, and small gold beads. Lined in black cloth, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into inner hatband is retailer's label: "Innes / Wichita" Purchased at the Innes store, Wichita, Kansas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30184/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of white silk crepe. Full-length sleeveless dress with round neck and narrow straps and Empire waist. The bodice is heavily beaded with mirror beads and silver rhinestones. The skirt has vertical columns of beads and has heavy beading on hem. Zipper closure along center back. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30180/
Hat
"Lampshade" style hat of black straw or raffia. The basically conical hat is woven of a black straw material, with flattened top. On the front of the hat, off-set to the left, is affixed a wide black velvet ribbon from the top edge of the crown down to almost the brim. Sewn to the ribbon at top is a circular stamped metal brooch set with 17 large circular rhinestones in three concentric circles. The hat is lined in black net, with inner black grosgrain hatband. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is manufacturer's label: "Edette / Exclusive / New York - Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30155/
Toque
Toque of fuschia felt. Cylindrical hat is covered in a fuschia/dark pink felt with over-lapping layers simulating a turban. Flattened top with slight ridge. The whole is covered in blue, green, and pink lines of stitching which radiate from the center of the crown outwards and down the sides. At the back of the hat is a bow of blue and red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, but has a red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30185/
Jeans
Pair of commercially produced Wrangler denim jeans that were found in the southern Rocky mountains across from Red River, New Mexico in the late 1960's. The pants had been bleached in irregular patterns by the sun, and had various worn and torn places. After discovery, the Wranglers were embellished with red velour fabric pieces to cover some of the worst structural damage, and with a commercially available embroidered butterfly patch added below waistband at center back. Labels: Evidence of rectangular tag having been sewn on right-side back pocket. Both back pockets have "W" stitching; Fly button engraved "Wrangler"; Tag sewn inside fly: "Wrangler / 30 x 34 / Sanforized / Made in U.S.A."; Zipper pull stamped "Gripper Zipper" and "Pat Pending"; Marked on left front pocket, inside pants: "GDW" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30327/
Dress
Dress of black and purple diagonal woven stripe taffeta. It has a V- neckline in front and back, and has a fitted bodice with balloon peplum which gathers into the waist. Sleeveless, the dress has black velvet straps with striped flounces on each side and has black velvet petals attached to the straps. The long, straight skirt has a front slit. Dress has a center back zipper closure, and is unlined. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30320/
Jeans
Pair of jeans. Commercially manufactured Levi Strauss & Co. denim blue jeans which have been bleached to white, then disassembled and reassembled with embellishments of multi-color crewel embroidered fabric and glass beads. Jeans have two front pockets and two back pockets, front zipper fly and button at waistband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30328/
Shirt
Homemade, long-sleeved shirt of gold brocade, with straight button front, in the popular Elvis Presley or Renaissance style of the late 1960's. Multiple ballooned areas on the sleeves. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30324/
Belt And Buckle
Belt of finished black leather having a large openwork chrome buckle designed as letters spelling out "PEACE", within a rectangular frame. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30326/
T-Shirt - Che Guevara
T-shirt of white cotton, having short sleeves and a rounded neckline, which is printed with an artistic rendering of a portrait of Che Guevara, arranged as large main central portrait in black, surrounded by four smaller renditions in pale gray. Acquired by the donor in Mexico City in 1971 from a vendor in the Mexico City Metro. Ernesto "Che" Guevara (b. June 14, 1928 in Rosario, Argentina - d. La Higuera, Bolivia, October 9, 1967) commonly known as El Che or simply Che, was an Argentine Marxist revolutionary, physician, author, intellectual, guerrilla leader, diplomat, military theorist, and major figure of the Cuban Revolution. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30323/
Dress
Dress of blue, green, pink, and black taffeta and satin in horizontal woven bands. The full-length dress has a sweetheart neckline which gathers at bust to simulate a bow. The fitted bodice has short raglan-style sleeves with gathers at the shoulder seams. The long skirt is gathered at the natural waist. The dress is unlined, and has hook-and-eye closures on left side along bodice. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30319/
Dress
Dress of printed silk with beads and sequins. Short dress of black silk is printed with a paisley design in yellow, red, and cream. The background is covered in heavy black beading and black sequins. The dress has a short standing collar and long set-in sleeves. There is a center back zipper from collar to hips. Fully lined in black fabric. Label of Dallas retailer inside back near collar on left side: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30316/
Boots
Pair of brown suede boots. Almost knee-high, the boots are constructed as slip-on rounded-toe shoes or moccasins with added segments on the quarter to create the length of the boots. At the top, the suede of the boots is folded over outwards forming a pocket for a drawstring around top and a band of suede fringe around the outside of the boot. Indistinct trademark/logo stamped on sole. Illegible stamped mark inside boots. Referred to as "Squaw Boots", these were worn by the donor who acquired them in 1968 from the Fishing Bridge Store, in Yellowstone National Park. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30322/
Coat
Evening coat of brocade and fur. The full-length coat is of a pale yellow silk brocade, with a pattern of flowers and scrolls in reds, purples, blues, white, silver, and gold. It has long sleeves and opens along the center front, with no closures. The cuffs and collar are wide bands of dyed purple fox fur. The coat is lined in a pale tan/yellow silk. Sewn in below collar at inside center back is designer's label: "Designed / by Mouratidis / Washington DC" Attached inside right side near hip is original paper label printed on one side "Balenciaga / Paris", and written on the back "Brocade evening mystery / coat w/fox / R". Donated to the Texas Fashion Collection by Helen Noumas, in memory of her partner Michael Mouratidis, designer of the piece. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30321/
Dress
Dress of off-white silk. Ankle-length dress with V neckline at front and back with piped edge and with long, lightly puffed sleeves supported by small pads. Hem and sleeves with fine rolled hems. At front is a wide, dropped, cross-over band at waist which repeats at back, the back forming a yoke into which the skirt gathers. Lapped zipper closure on left side. The entire garment has pleating inspired by the designs of Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo,(May 11, 1871–May 3, 1949) Acquired by the donor at the Fort Worth, Texas, branch of Neiman Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30311/
Dress
Dress of navy blue silk chiffon. The full-length dress is sleeveless, with narrow straps extending across shoulders and meeting at center of the 2 1/2" wide A-line band at neckline. The straps and neckline band are covered with faux jewels. From the band drops the long A-line skirt of finely-pleated silk chiffon, which conceals a narrow sheath dress underneath. This dress is similar in style to one produced for Halley's 1967 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30317/
Dress
Dress of off-white / ivory wool knit. The form-fitting full-length sheath has a round neckline and short cap sleeves. The entire dress is covered with iridescent sequins, and is decorated at lower part with five bands of gold/copper sequins, 3 bands of rosettes composted of gold beads and pearls, and two bands of "garlands" with suspended pine-cone forms and diamond shapes of copper/gold sequins, gold bugle beads, and gold beads. Dress has zipper closure along center back. Label reads: "Gene Shelly's / Boutique Internationale / California / Hand Decorated in Hong Kong / 100% Wool" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30210/
Pumps
Pair of white leather pumps. Shoes have rounded open toes and sections of clear vinyl or plastic at vamp on either side. Accented with rectangular buckles at vamps painted white and set with large and small rhinestones. Back straps fasten with rectangular white-painted metal buckles. 3" spike heel covered in white leather. Written in each shoe: "6 1/2 B" on vamp; "6 1/2 B 6333 / 7214-6RF" on back strap. Stamped on lining of left shoe: "M. Wolf / New York". Stamped on lining of right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30213/
Coat
Sleeveless coat of navy on white zebra printed wool. The street-length coat is of slight A-line, widening to hem. It has wide straps, no collar, and center front opening with 5 circular dark blue plastic buttons. At each hip is a patch pocket with simulated flap, the fabric of the pockets chosen to match the placement on the print. The coat is fully lined in navy fabric. Inside neckline at back is designer's label "Givenchy", folded so that "Made In / France" is not visible. This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a blue wool jersey knit top and slacks. Donor noted that it was "Made for Monte Carlo for day wear". There is also a hat that was worn with the ensemble (1978.013.062) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30151/
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246" This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972. The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must look like the light shining through the stained glass windows of the Chapel." The ensemble has a matching pair of shoes by Roger Viver made of fabric in the same print. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30152/
Pillbox Hat
Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner band is a plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa". The jeweled ornament is attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. Donor notes of this hat: "...to wear with short black cocktail dresses." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30150/
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Evening ensemble of a dress, jacket and belt. The full-length sleeveless evening dress is of black silk, with a slim silhouette. It has a wide, shallow V-neck at front, and has decorative twist in the fabric at back, which creates a deeper V. The wide straps are ruched at front with non-functional rhinestone-encrusted clasps sewn to them. The bodice has decorative seaming under bust and around the hips. The dress has a black silk belt with a rhinestone-encrusted "buckle", which functions as a large hook-and-eye rather than a buckle. The jacket is of matching black silk, lined with a cream-colored taffeta. The short, bell-shaped sleeves have a second "layer" creating the effect of a wide ruffle. Padded tubes of silk curve along each shoulder, tapering under the arm at front and back. There is a center front opening with no closure, which is "cut away" in a curve at front, giving the overall effect of a miniature 'cropped' opera cape. No labels in either garment. Possibly acquired by Ms. Hewett in France in the 1930's while studying medieval music manuscripts. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30154/
Dress
Dress of bright green chiffon printed with multi-color shapes and with all-over scattered sequins and beading. The full-length A-line sheath has a round neckline with beaded band trim at neckline. The long sleeves have five non-functioning beaded buttons at wrist, and five hidden snap closures from wrist. The dress has an attached underdress of matte silk printed with same design as the overdress. The garment is fully lined with cream silk which has woven into it a repeated pattern of Hanae Mori's name. The underdress has a zipper closure at center back from neckline to above waist. The overdress has a series of hidden snaps to conceal the zipper, and a line of eight beaded buttons matching those on the sleeves, also non-functional. A single hook-and-loop closure at neck secures the top of the garment. The printed design includes circles, flowers, and fluid lines and triangles in shades of pink, yellow, blue, orange, and violet. The sequins are clear, and are secured with tiny colored beads, the colors of which match the color of the dress they are sewn over. Sewn inside dress at back at left of zipper is designer label: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30156/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30205/
Hat
Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30237/
Dress
Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30076/
Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30073/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede. Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear" The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30078/