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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: France
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Dinner Dress

Dinner Dress

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristobal
Description: Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1926
Creator: Domergue, Jean-Gabriel & Ferro, Gabriel
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of gray felt. The domed crown is constructed with the the outline of a rounded square, with attached stiffened double-brim, which turns up on all sides, forming a point at front and at sides, but rounded in back. At the back of the hat the brim extends downwards, forming a point. The hat is unlined, and edged with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. A small stitched star on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Visible behind the ribbon in one section is the woven straw backing used to stiffen the brim. Designer's label inside crown, sewn to ribbon band: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made" Stamped inside crown on felt: Circular mark containing a logo of three rabbits and partly missing word "... URLAP", and below logo ".... en France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 187u
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding fan with intricately carved and decorated tortoiseshell guards and sticks. Leaf of stiffened off-white organdy, heavily embroidered with steel paillettes and gold sequins. Embroidered and sequined peacock feathers applied to ends of alternating sticks. Pivot-point at end set on each side with blue stone. Measurements: 45 cm width (open) Guard: 22 cm length, 2 cm width
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1959
Creator: Heim, Roger
Description: Cloche hat of tan milan straw. The high crown is slightly dished, and narrows to brim, with wide band of tan/very pale green grosgrain ribbon at base with large "bow" at side. The straw brim is down-turned. The crown has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Roger Heim / Made in France Paris", and retailer's ribbon sewn just above designer's label: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1870/1879
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding fan of bone and satin. Guards and sticks of bone, intricately carved with pierced latticework. Plain off-white silk satin leaf. Chased metal bail ring at pivot with mother-of-pearl beads. Off-white silk tassel tied to bail. Inscribed on silk leaf along one guard: "Hood W. [illeg.] / June 5th /73"; other inscriptions on other guard, too fragile to examine.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1890/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding fan with tortoise-shell frame. Sticks and loop of tortoise shell; possibly for brise style fan; missing leaf or ribbon. Measurements: 39 cm extended; guard 21 cm long x 3 cm wide
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1880/1889
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding fan. Guards and sticks of carved and pierced ivory (bone?)with a foliage designs. The white sheer organdy leaf is hand-painted with central vignette of a garden scene of a couple greeting a woman seated on a bench. The leaf with added hand-panted border of a garland of flowers. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has been in-expertly mended at some point previous to entering collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1880/1899
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding fan. Guards and sticks of lightly carved ivory (bone?) with scrolling foliate designs. The leaf is of white lace. Sticks are unadorned on the reverse. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has alternately been identified as Irish lace or machine-made lace, and dated 1830's or 1880-1899.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fedora

Fedora

Date: 1948
Creator: Valerie Hat
Description: Hat of gray felt. The hat is styled as a man's fedora. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Hat is unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York", with size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: Charles Jourdan (House of)
Description: Pair of speckled taupe leather pumps. Uppers of light taupe leather embellished with tiny grayish flat pebbled textural design. Toe cap of black patent leather. 3 3/4" spike heel covered in black patent leather. Lined in olive leather except inner heel, which is lined in natural light brown leather. Soles of black leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France". Stamped inside each heel: "37 X 7 2A 586855 NF". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boater

Boater

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Marché Hats
Description: Boater-style hat of off-white straw. The whole hat is of straw woven into shell-shaped segments, connected to form the body of the hat. The cylindrical crown has a flat top, and is encircled at the base by a black velvet ribbon. At either side of the crown are large black velvet bows. The flat, oval brim follows the outline of the crown, and is partly overlaid by a fine black mesh veil with long, trailing ends that are long enough to tie under the wearer's chin. The underside of the brim is edged in black velvet, and there is a black velvet strap which extends down from either side to help secure hat to wearer's head. The hat is lined with a fine white mesh, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Labels sewn into inner hatband: "Marché Hats / Paris New York"; Also sewn into inner hatband is second label, "Consumers' Protection Label / 784619". Hand-written on velvet chinstrap: "59389"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of olive green/gray felt. The low, domed crown is of a drab olive green/gray felt, divided into four quadrants. Around the base of the crown is a band of similarly colored grosgrain ribbon, with bow at right side. The brim is of the same felt, and slopes downwards at front, and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Attached to the inner band is an elasticized cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Stamped in gold on inner hatband: "Made in France especially for / Best & Co"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat of dark green felt and multicolored yarns. Formed in the style of a small bonnet, the cylindrical crown is pointed back, and cut flat across top. The front of the crown is overlaid by a band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground of various colors of yarn, and scattered shaped beads. This band is bordered by a thick purple yarn. At the front of the hat and extending along the sides are the brim, folded back to form a second wide band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground. The hat is unlined, and from the inside can be seen the inner part of the embroidery/crochet. Maker's label sewn inside hat, at back of crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1926
Creator: Dauphine
Description: Cloche of pale green straw and orange velvet. Domed crown of the cloche-style hat is overlaid with orange/red velvet leaf shapes. Around the sides of the crown are applied overlapping circular panels of pale green braided straw. On the left side of hat a single straw panel is placed low so that half of it hangs below the crown. Inside of hat is lined with peach silk. Designer's label inside crown: "Dauphine / Paris / New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's dancing pumps of red kid leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of soft red fine kid leather leather with a square-ended flap at vamp/instep, and applied red satin bow at vamp. The inner sole of the shoe is a dark red quilted satin. The low heels are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and straight across at front. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather at heel and tan on rest of shoe. Stamped in sole on one shoe: "2", on other: "4".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hatlet of burgundy fabric covered with artificial flowers. The hatlet is formed as an oval of stiffened burgundy fabric intended to be worn across the top of the head. The hatlet is almost entirely covered with artificial flowers of velvets, silk, and other fabrics. The flowers are primarily in pinks/purples/reds, with green stems and leaves. The hat is lined in black satin and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is very large, extending across the full width of the inside of the hatlet, the word "Paris" partly obscured by the grosgrain ribbon.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1920/1929
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of off-white French linen. The soft crown is domed and formed of six segments. Around the base of the crown is a red linen ribbon, threaded through a series of six "belt-loops" spaced around the base of the crown at approximately where the segments join. The slightly stiffened, and quilted in a pattern of concentric circles. The hat is unlined, and has an inner hatband of off-white linen at inside base of crown. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat of red satin and sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of dark red satin almost completely covered in sequined floral appliques. Irregular lower edge, following the outline of the appliques. Lined in black paper (?) and satin, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the band indicates the front of the hat, and a small applied white ribbon bow is set at back. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending across the inside of the hat, the "Paris", most of "New" and all of "York" are cut off.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skimmer

Skimmer

Date: 1930/1939
Creator: Maynor Hats
Description: Skimmer hat of straw and silk. The skimmer, or boater style hat has a low woven straw crown with flat top. Around the crown is a matching woven straw ribbon edged in brown silk, with a bow at back. The wide, flat brim is of woven straw, covered with brown silk matching the trimming of the band on the crown. The silk covering is quilted in a pattern of concentric bands with running wavy lines. The crown and underside of the brim are unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband at base of crown. Extending from the inner hatband are two panels of brown silk, forming a chin-strap with black cord knot fastener. A small "F" is stitched to inner hatband to indicate the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / Maynor Hats / New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Parure - Hat, Bracelets, Necklace, Belt

Parure - Hat, Bracelets, Necklace, Belt

Date: 1920/1929
Creator: Biot, Marcelle
Description: Parure made of natural, brown, and black woven/plaited straw, consisting of: A) Hat. Styled as an oversized calotte (also spelled "calot") or small cloche. The domed crown is constructed of radiating segments of woven/plaited straw in bands of brown, natural/tan, and black. At the top of the crown is a circle of black straw. Slightly scalloped lower edge. Designer's(?) label inside: "Marcelle Biot / 30 Rue de Valois / Paris" and 'Made in France" Three matching bracelets: B) Natural/tan straw bracelet, with a single band of brown straw and a single band of black straw. Black metal clasp. C) Brown straw bracelet, with a single band of black straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. D) Black straw bracelet, with single band of brown straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. Each bracelet with label: "Made in France". E) Matching necklace of bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Designed as a modified "bib" necklace, wider at center and narrowing to clasp ends. Black metal clasp. F) Matching belt, with lengthwise bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Black straw ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Turban

Turban

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Turban of pleated brown wool jersey. The high-crowned turban is composed of pleated concentric bands of fabric. The hat is lined in mesh covered with cream/pale yellow silk, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A stitched mark on headband shows front of hat, and small applied ribbon bow shows back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, almost reaching from headband to headband across inside of crown.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1940
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche Hat

Cloche Hat

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Schiaparelli, Elsa
Description: Cloche-style hat of pink fur felt. Lattice-work design in strips of same fabric surrounds crown and forms knot at side. Unlined. Pink grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Stamp on crown: "Helios / Body Made in Italy" Designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design