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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Parure - Hat, Bracelets, Necklace, Belt
Parure made of natural, brown, and black woven/plaited straw, consisting of: A) Hat. Styled as an oversized calotte (also spelled "calot") or small cloche. The domed crown is constructed of radiating segments of woven/plaited straw in bands of brown, natural/tan, and black. At the top of the crown is a circle of black straw. Slightly scalloped lower edge. Designer's(?) label inside: "Marcelle Biot / 30 Rue de Valois / Paris" and 'Made in France" Three matching bracelets: B) Natural/tan straw bracelet, with a single band of brown straw and a single band of black straw. Black metal clasp. C) Brown straw bracelet, with a single band of black straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. D) Black straw bracelet, with single band of brown straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. Each bracelet with label: "Made in France". E) Matching necklace of bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Designed as a modified "bib" necklace, wider at center and narrowing to clasp ends. Black metal clasp. F) Matching belt, with lengthwise bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Black straw "buttons" and loops. "Made in France" label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39138/
Hat
Calotte of rust brown knit with rolled straw brim in browns and gold. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentin / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France" Size label on inside hatband: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39134/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan linen. The off-the-face cloche has a high, domed crown embellished with white saddle stitching along seams. The brim is of the same material, folded up at front and descending down at sides and is turned down at back. At center back is a separation in the brim, with a small tan linen bow between the sections. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside the base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Reproduction / Rose Descat / 22 Rue Royale / Paris"; Second label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39139/
Hat
Small girl's homemade hat with wire frame. Yellow dotted Swiss cotton crown. White organdy brim and hatband. Edges embroidered with narrow lace ruffle underneath. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39133/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox-style hat of black velvet and braid. The cylindrical crown is higher at front, and slightly domed at top. Around top and base of crown are running bands of black braid forming a series of loops, within each of which is a free-swinging black braid-covered ball. Lined in black mesh(?) and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of crown. A small stitched mark on hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie". The hat is accompanied by a short hatpin with black bead head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39195/
Headpiece
Headpiece of moderately muted red orange velour. The covered wire bandeau is designed to be worn over head, encircling ears, and has about thirty velour loops accented with eight randomly tied dangling pendants. Each pendant consists of three silver-colored globular beads and three silver oval beads and one larger white opaque globular glass bead at the end of each pendant. Donor stated that the piece had been worn by the Russian ballet dancer, Anna Pavlova. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39192/
Hat
Hat of dark brown straw. The low, domed crown is of a fine dark brown woven straw, encircled at the base by a band of fine woven reddish brown straw which ties and forms a bow at left side. The medium-width brim is of the dark brown straw, and undulates slightly, higher in front and lower at sides. The hat is lined in reddish brown lace, and has an inner hatband formed of a roll of the lace. At either side, extending from the inner hatband, are two rectangular covered metal clips which help secure the hat to wearer's head. There are no labels or tags in the hat. The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin with a faux black oval pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39191/
Toque
Hat of green straw. The toque style hat is formed of a high, cylindrical crown of woven green straw with raised outer rim at top and central shallow domed area. Around the shallow domed area is an acid-green woven ribbon band, tied with a bow with trailing ends at back of hat. Around the inside base of the crown is a band of the same woven ribbon which projects down slightly below the edge of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of green grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Exclusive / Jean Arlett / Creations". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39197/
Hat
Hat of green straw. The crown is shaped as a cone with a flattened top. The body of the crown is of dark muted green finely woven straw, with the top being an openwork arrangement of strips of the woven straw interwoven to form a latticework or "basket-weave". Around the base of the crown is a wide band of reddish/orange beige grosgrain ribbon overlaid with a narrow band of the same woven straw, with trailing ends at back. Also wrapped around the crown is a fine dark green veiling. The flexible brim is turned down sharply at front, and turned up at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of the same reddish/orange beige grosgrain ribbon around the inner base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39190/
Turban
Turban of pleated brown wool jersey. The high-crowned turban is composed of pleated concentric bands of fabric. The hat is lined in mesh covered with cream/pale yellow silk, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A stitched mark on headband shows front of hat, and small applied ribbon bow shows back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, almost reaching from headband to headband across inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39198/
Hat
Hat of red straw. The hat has a high crown of finely woven red straw, with flattened top. The sides of the crown have diagonal ridges forming a "zig-zag" around the crown. At it's base, the crown curves in and under, forming a "waist" around which is tied a band of ribbed knit(?) fabric, with bow at back. The shallow brim curves downwards. From the band around crown extends a gray/black veil which extends from slightly over 1/2 of the circumference of the hat. The hat is lined in red fabric, and has an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Otto Lucas / Bond Street London / Made in England". The hat is accompanied by one short hatpin with red felt covered head to match hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39199/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of shiny green straw with downward brim. Red and green feather trim. Rose veil with small chenille dots. Designer's label: "Ginette Robert / de Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39196/
Toque
Hat of green velvet. The toque style hat is formed as a high, cylindrical crown of olive and light green velvet in a tiny checkerboard pattern. The entire crown, including flattened top, has a small green rhinestone set in each of the light green squares of the checkerboard. At the front of the hat is a bow of olive green velvet. The entire hat is overlaid with an olive green veil/netting. The hat is lined with green satin, and has an inner hatband of dark olive green grosgrain ribbon inside the base of the crown. Sewn to the inner hatband is manufacturer's label: "Paris / Gardner / New York". The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39193/
Hat
Hat of brown straw. The domed crown of varnished woven brown straw is encircled at the base by a ribbon of brown velvet which has loops and a trailing end at one side simulating a bow. The ribbon is trimmed along the lower edge with a string of beads, simulating small pearls, which loops around the "bow". The flat brim folds under at the edge, forming a double thickness. The hat is unlined, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the lower inside edge of the crown. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39188/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39157/
Hat
Hat of ecru lace and black horsehair. The high, slightly domed crown is formed of ecru lace, with a black satin ribbon bow to side, and a black satin band around the base of the crown, partly obscured by the lace. The wide, undulating black horsehair brim is oval, wider to sides than front to back. Inside of crown originally lined with fine, transparent black tulle, remains of which form an inner hatband at inside base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / della Donna / New York". Intended for afternoon wear. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39150/
Hat
Hat of red felt. The crown is of red felt, with sloping sides, and a a recessed flat top center panel. The wide brim is also of red felt, overlaid with a wide pleated band of red grosgrain ribbon which is attached by an inter-woven thin band of the red felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner red grosgrain ribbon hatband inside the base of the crown, and with a bow of red felt at the back, underside, of the brim. A thin black elastic cord is attached to the inner band, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Edward Paine / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39158/
Hat
Hat of chocolate brown velour with wide, rolled brim. Soft crushed matching crown with band and large bow on side. Lacquered coque feathers underneath brim. Feathered underside of brim has applique scroll work of same feathers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39154/
Hat
Hat of navy felt with eight-pointed brim. Brim lined in white silk. Crown trimmed with navy felt band and grosgrain ribbon with bow in back. Veiled in front. Hatpin in back with head of same felt. Retailer's label inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39159/
Hat
Little girl's Easter bonnet. Wired base with mushroom type top of black velvet and double ruffled brim of white lace. Small pink roses and green stems encircle hat above lace brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39156/
Hat
Hat of velvet and golden weave cloth. The domed crown is covered in a woven golden cloth shot through with metallic threads. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband of a similar fabric in the form of a dense ribbon, forming a large bow at front. Set in behind the bow is a semi-circular fan spray of fine white feathers. The wide, circular, slightly floppy brim is of black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue/black satin material. Maker's label stamped in gold on inner lining of crown: "Mme. J. Dagnet / French Millinery / 206 St. Paul St. / Dallas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39153/
Hat
Cloche hat of gray felt with upturned front brim. Pewter/gray glass beads on wire trim encircle crown with perpendicular lines off left and right down brim. Label in inside hatband: "Regalle" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39155/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39152/
Hat
Hat of lavender horsehair overlaid with lace and velvet. The daytime hat has a high, domed crown of braided/woven horsehair. Around the sides of the crown is a band of pale lavender velvet overlaid with a band of dark blue velvet, which itself is partly overlaid by pale blue lace. Around the back of the crown is a band of pale blue velvet, a section of which is also at the base of the crown at the front of the hat. The brim is of the same horsehair, and stitched up in back to create the effect of having the brim extend around sides and front, but not the back. The brim is overlaid with lace as the crown. At left side of hat, along base of crown, is a small embellishment consisting of two tubular beads and three circular beads set with rhinestones. The hat is lined in blue satin. Retailer's(?) paper label attached inside crown at back: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas - Texas", with original price of $20.00. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39151/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. The sculptural piece is designed with elements of both a beret and a beanie. The crown is of oval shape with upwards sweeping and twisting panels of felt which meet at a point at the top of the crown. The shape is primarily held by blocking, with a few small stitches to maintain it. The base of the crown is sewn to a band of the same felt at bottom edge, forming an in-ward curving brim. The hat is unlined, the inner edge trimmed with black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitch mark on ribbon indicates the front of the hat. A think black cord attached to the ribbon helps secure the hat to wearer's head, to be looped around the back of the head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Charles James / 15, Bruton Street, W.I." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39145/
Cloche and Scarf Set
Cloche hat of embroidered pink linen. The slightly domed crown is made of pink linen with all-over tiny white embroidered polka-dots. The matching brim is turned up at front, sewn to crown, and descends at sides, turning downwards at back. At center back the brim is split, with a bow of the same fabric affixed at the split. The hat is lined with white silk. There are no labels or tags in the hat. The hat is accompanied by a necktie/scarf of the same fabric. Original records indicate the set is probably French in origin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39142/
Hat
Hat of gray fur felt. The low, rounded crown is made of gray beaver(?) fur felt over a structure of woven straw. Brim is of same felt, and appears narrow in front, but rolls under and extends back under crown. At sides and back, brim curves upwards, and then back downwards to extend under crown. Along sides and back of crown is section of gray grosgrain ribbon which projects through the upturned brim at back and becomes a large bow with trailing ends. There is an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the edges of the brim where they meet the inside base of the crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head, and attached to the front brim underside is a plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Legroux Soeurs / 4 Rue Cambon Paris / Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39141/
Hat
Hat of gray fur felt. The derby style hat is made of a single piece of stiffened gray fur felt. The low, domed crown is encircled near the base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at back. The 2" wide brim curves upwards at edges. Hat is unlined, and has a band of black grosgrain ribbon inside at base of crown. Attached to the inner ribbon is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39147/
Hat
Hat of royal blue velour. The crown is somewhat domed, of pieced velour, with a band of rolled dark blue satin around the base. The wide brim of matching velour is shaped to dip down and turn up slightly around the crown. The hat is unlined, with a band of dark blue grosgrain ribbon sewn in between the inner edge of the crown and the brim. Designer's label sewn inside: "Rose Descat / Paris", with a second label sewn to lower edge of designer's: "Made In France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39140/
Hat
Cloche hat of blue-green velvet. An early example of the cloche hat, it has a narrow up-turned brim. All around the crown is floral decoration carried out in beading, applique, and embroidery. Also with thin lines of gold thread sewn throughout. The edges of the brim are similarly decorated. Remains of silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39148/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39144/
Hat
Hat of brown velvet with wide soft crown. Wide brim folded back on both sides at the front with gathered velvet lining. Horsehair trim on brim. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Sanger Bros / Dallas - Waco" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39149/
Hat
Mushroom hat of red strawcloth and tucks on four corners. Interior headband covered in same to secure hat to head. Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39146/
Hat
Beret of hand knit white yarn with folded side tab trim of white linen on left and right. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39143/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/very pale blue leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. The sole is of tan leather. Shoes are lined in matching leather and off-white cloth. Retailer's stamp on lining: "Byrn's Boot Sh [partly illeg] / Kansas City" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39015/
Dance Pumps
Pair of lady's dance pumps in white satin. The shoes are of white satin with large bow at vamp and a second bow on the strap which buttons across instep of each shoe. Low/flat heels. White leather insole, and sides lined with white fabric. Retailer's stamp on sole: "S.G. Maddox / Weatherford, Texas." Stamped inside: "4 D 520" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39012/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of brown felt. Domed crown. Two bands of matching felt circle edge of hat and tie to form a large knot on the right. Tie ends stand away from hat. Unlined with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Retailer's label: "Gus Mayer / Co. Ltd." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39082/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled as a tricorne, the crown is of black felt, flattened at top. The wide brim is set off-center to the crown, with more of the brim at sides and front than back. The brim is curled up and in at sides and back, forming a triangular shape, with point at the front. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon along inside bottom edge of crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Jacqueline / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39081/
Fez
Fez-style hat of red felt. The cylindrical crown has a flat top into which the sides are pleated to form a rosette with a central circle from which extends the black cord tassel. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39087/
Hat
Hat of black felt with high crown. Black jersey used as hatband in front; passes through slits at base of crown and loops under chin. Asymmetrical brim is wider and dips slightly in front and narrows and flips up in back. Unlined with cream colored silk inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's stamp on inside headband: "Knox / Fifth Ave. New York" Retailer's stamp on inside headband: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas, Texas" Size/style number label under inside headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39080/
Hat
Hat of black chenille yarn. High crown; wide brim curls up. Unlined. Maker's label: "Original Design / by / Madcaps / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39088/
Cloche Hat
Cloche-style hat of pink fur felt. Lattice-work design in strips of same fabric surrounds crown and forms knot at side. Unlined. Pink grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Stamp on crown: "Helios / Body Made in Italy" Designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39084/
Beret
Hat of black knit. In the style of a beret, the hat is of black knitted yarn. The crown is circular, somewhat domed when worn. No brim. The whole is covered in long, curving, pointed black sequins. Hat is unlined. Label sewn inside crown: "Hand Made / In Italy". Hat has been photographed with padding to provide shape. When not worn or padded, hat flattens. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39055/
Calotte
Hat of gray felt, burgundy velour, and black sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), formed of a base of stiffened gray felt, overlaid with a layer of burgundy velour. The domed crown extends further down on right side than left, curling out at rim. The crown is covered in black sequins, with an edge of the velour showing slightly at front and back, more at right side. The hat is unlined, with inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. A small stitch in the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene / New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39052/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of blue velvet. This modified pillbox hat is formed as a turban of draped blue velvet, extending slightly downwards at sides. The hat is lined inside with black satin, and has an inner hatband of blue grosgrain ribbon. A small star stitched to the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Attached to either side of the inner hatband are two small plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" Retailer's paper tag attached to inner hatband: "A810 / RISCN2 / 5117 / 4995" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39051/
Hat
Hay of gray "horsehair". The crown is of woven gray "horsehair", thin material with concentric thicker bands within. Around the base of the crown is a wide blue velvet ribbon, and on the front of the crown is an arrangement of artificial flowers of velvet in pinks, blues and greens. The wide, oval brim is set off-center, widest at sides, wide at front and very shallow at back. The edge is wired, giving it a "wavy" edge. The hat is unlined, with a wide band of satin ribbon around the inside base of the crown. There are no labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39057/
Beret
Hat of striped felt. The hat is formed as a "pancake beret" on a rigid, slightly curved frame. The crown is of felt with wide width-wise stripes of olive green and black. The edge is embellished with a swagged band of bronze and black beads which runs from just behind the midway point of the side of the hat, around the front, and to just behind the midway point on the other side of the hat. The interior of the hat is lined in black fabric, and there is an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chez Henriette". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39245/
Hat
Hat of navy blue gabardine. Based on a modified top-hat design, the cylindrical soft crown is slightly "crushed". The brim, of the same material, turns up in front and down in back. At back of brim/crown is a navy blue faille bow with trailing ribbons. The crown is lined in white satin, and there is a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Attached inside crown at back is label: "Margie Webb designs / California Accessories". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39242/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of yellow chiffon. The stiffened cylindrical crown is slightly domed, and covered with pleated yellow chiffon. On the top of the crown, the pleats run front-to-back, and on the sides the pleats run horizontally around the crown. The interior of the crown is lined in yellow faille, and has an inner hatband at the base of wide yellow grosgrain ribbon. Attached to the inner grosgrain band at either side is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39241/
Hat
Hat of black wool felt. The tall, cylindrical crown is slanted across the top, higher at front than back. The top of the crown has a flattened section with inner ridge, forming a ring of the felt inside the top. Around the sides of the crown is a very wide light brown band of grosgrain ribbon with bow and trailing ends at back of hat. The wide brim undulates, partly curving up and partly curving down. The hat is lined in black satin, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inside of crown: "Sally Victor / New York" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39247/