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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1980
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1960/1965
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1960
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1973
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots. Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France". This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076) Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1960
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Pumps of black satin and black kid leather. Vamp with cutwork in leather forming a modified sunray or comet design centered on circular metal button set with rhinestones. The cutwork is embellished with black jet beadwork. Louis XV style heels covered in black satin. Stamped inside one shoe in gold, partly illegible: "Kasson's / Knickerbocker / Cincinnati"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Platform Lace-Up Sandals

Platform Lace-Up Sandals

Date: 1970
Creator: Jourdan, Charles, 1883-1976
Description: Pair of platform sandals. Silver leather covered black plastic(?) sole with silver metal lace and cords. 4" spike set-back heel. Marked in relief on sole of each shoe: "Made in France". Anonymous gift to the Texas Fashion Collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Vest and Pants

Ensemble - Vest and Pants

Date: 1979
Creator: Valentina Ltd.
Description: Ensemble consisting of a vest and pants. The vest is of wool,with a scoop-neck and with 5 hook-and-eye closures down center front. It is covered in sewn-on black sequins, and has a 1" border of orange, white and gold beads with gold trim at neckline, front opening, hem, and armholes. On the front and back of the vest are 3" diamond shapes formed of the same beads. The white and orange beads are plastic. The vest is fully lined in black fabric. Labels in vest: "Valentina LTD / RN 34435 / Made in Hong Kong"; "100% Wool / Made in Hong Kong"; and "Medium". The pants are formed as a divided skirt of black wool in a satin weave simulating crepe-back satin. They are floor length, with full-length accordion pleats. There is a wide 3" waistband that is completely beaded to match the vest. The pants have a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband, and are unlined. Inside the pants is a single tag at waistband: "Lot Number 11/12".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: Olive, Frank
Description: Hat of yellow straw. The woven straw hat has a boxy, cylindrical crown, flat on top. The brim is also of yellow woven straw, and turns up to to vertical very close to the crown forming a high "wall" around the crown. Crown is unlined, with a pink grosgrain ribbon inside around the base of the crown. Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Frank Olive".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirts and Blouse

Ensemble - Jacket, Skirts and Blouse

Date: 1991/1992
Creator: Brooks, Richard
Description: Ensemble of rose silk. The suit consists of a jacket, two skirts and a blouse. The jacket is made from a 1930's sari of pale pink silk embroidered with gold and silver threads, beads, and pink sequins in designs of vines, flowers and abstract line patterns. Jacket has a floating yoke and full leg-o-mutton sleeves with long narrow cuffs that have zipper closures. The jacket itself has a center front opening with no closure. The neckline, edges of closure, hem, and cuffs are edged in heavily beaded bands added by the designer. Designer's label sewn inside back at neck: "Richard Brooks". The blouse is of heavy pink silk, collarless, with round neckline. It is short-sleeved, with pleating at the shoulder. Vertical seaming on front and back for structure. There is a concealed center-back closure with snap at top and 5 clear plastic circular buttons down the length. The blouse is lined in a dark, dusty pink silk and has sewn-in shoulder pads. Designer's label is sewn inside back to the left of the opening: "Richard Brooks". The two skirts are are both of identical pink silk, matching the blouse, of identical construction. One is knee-length, and the other is full-length. ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1966
Creator: Pucci, Emilio
Description: Hat of printed polyester/synthetic fabric. Cylindrical crown with slight domed top and short, sloping brim, both covered with same fabric printed with "windows" design, some with central images of drums, harps, guitars, roundels, etc. Two bands of same fabric are sewn under brim to extend down and back to connect at back of wearer's head to secure hat. Inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Hat lined in dark olive green fabric. Part of uniform for Braniff International Airways flight attendants. Label inside at hatband: "Adolfo II / New York Paris". Designer's signature in print: "Emilio"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1939
Creator: Florell, Walter, ca. 1911-1986
Description: Hat of camel-colored cashmere felt. The crown is roughly cone-shaped, swelling at center and flattened at an angle at the top. Near the bottom of the crown is a band of black grosgrain ribbon, below which the hat swells out to become the asymmetrical brim. At center back is black grosgrain ribbon bow, to which is attached trailing golden tan/brown ostrich plumes. Inside crown is hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn onto the inner ribbon is designer's label: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Large Handbag. Rectangular gilt frame with ball/snap closure set with cabochon green stones. Body of bag formed of red, silver, grey, and black beads in a mosaic/Turkish carpet pattern. Bottom of bag with beaded fringe matching body of bag. Lined in pale peach satin with one pocket and attached small coin purse. Sewn into lining is woven tag "Made In France"; Marked on frame "Made In France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1910?
Creator: unknown
Description: Beaded handbag. Rectangular gilt metal frame with suspension chain and ball closure. Body of bag is covered with multi-colored glass beads forming a picture of a bird and flowers amid scrolling forms, same image on each side. Bottom of bag with blue beaded loops of fringe. Interior lining of blue satin, with attached circular mirror on a ribbon. European, either Paris or Vienna.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown and Stole

Evening Gown and Stole

Date: 1950
Creator: Fath, Jacques
Description: Evening gown and stole of silk satin; 2 sided fabric. Gown of deep red silk satin; sleeveless; sheath; large bow draped over right shoulder; fitted skirt; flounce from side seam creates half-circle; 2 self covered button accents; inner hem has horsehair braid and netting for structure; With stole of silk satin; deep red and dark blue; floor length; connected to make slight armholes.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1970
Creator: Crahay, Jules-Francois
Description: Dress of polychrome cotton print. The floor-length dress is of cotton fabric with a raised "zig-zag" texture, in the style of cotton piqué weaving. It is printed with a series of horizontal bands in geometric designs in blues, reds, greens, tan/brown, orange, and purple. The sleeveless dress has a shallow boat neckline in front and deep squared-off neckline at back. The fitted bodice section ends at the natural waist, into which the long skirt is slightly gathered. The front of the skirt has two patch pockets of the same material, with the print matched to disguise the pockets. One of the lower bands of the skirt is embellished with applied non-functional circular gold-colored "buttons". The hem of the dress has a 7 cm. wide band horizontal band of red wool trim, from which hangs red wool fringe. The center back zipper closure has a single hook-and-eye at top. The dress is lined in red fabric. The dress has two labels sewn inside. At left side at seam is designer's label "Lanvin / Paris New York"; at right side near zipper is size label "6".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat of bright, light orange felt hat. The domed crown is wrapped with a "pleated" pale orange silk chiffon band, over which is a second layer of a very light gray/smoke colored net. The orange felt brim curves downwards. The underside of the brim is lined with the orange felt, while the crown is lined with white silk with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts

Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts

Date: 1972
Creator: Amey, Ronald
Description: Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt. First image shows: a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell". b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1970/1975
Creator: Amey, Ronald
Description: Dress. Bodice of dress is made of chiffon with printed pattern of pink, red, green, blue, and purple swirls and bands and stylized foliage, woven with gold metallic threads forming paisley designs throughout bodice. Slight standing ring collar. The collar, waistband, cuffs, and bands running from collar along shoulders and down to cuffs are all trimmed with wide bands of gold braid/cording. The knee-length skirt is of red velour printed with large floral pattern in pink, purple, yellow, and dark maroon/brown. Reverse box pleat at center front, and zipper closure along back of garment, with three large gilt filigree buttons at collar. Cuffs also have 3 gilt buttons on each, with hidden snap closure. Dress is lined in pink fabric. Designer's label sewn inside bodice: "Ronald Amey / New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1951
Creator: unknown
Description: Pillbox hat of paisley velveteen. The circular, domed hat is made of a velveteen fabric with printed paisley pattern in shades of green, red, brown, purple, cream, etc. At top of hat is a ball of the same materials. The entire hat and ball have added sewn-on colored rhinestones scattered throughout, and small gold beads. Lined in black cloth, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into inner hatband is retailer's label: "Innes / Wichita" Purchased at the Innes store, Wichita, Kansas.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1962
Creator: unknown
Description: "Lampshade" style hat of black straw or raffia. The basically conical hat is woven of a black straw material, with flattened top. On the front of the hat, off-set to the left, is affixed a wide black velvet ribbon from the top edge of the crown down to almost the brim. Sewn to the ribbon at top is a circular stamped metal brooch set with 17 large circular rhinestones in three concentric circles. The hat is lined in black net, with inner black grosgrain hatband. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is manufacturer's label: "Edette / Exclusive / New York - Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1955
Creator: Schiaparelli, Elsa
Description: Toque of fuschia felt. Cylindrical hat is covered in a fuschia/dark pink felt with over-lapping layers simulating a turban. Flattened top with slight ridge. The whole is covered in blue, green, and pink lines of stitching which radiate from the center of the crown outwards and down the sides. At the back of the hat is a bow of blue and red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, but has a red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Jeans

Jeans

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Wrangler
Description: Pair of commercially produced Wrangler denim jeans that were found in the southern Rocky mountains across from Red River, New Mexico in the late 1960's. The pants had been bleached in irregular patterns by the sun, and had various worn and torn places. After discovery, the Wranglers were embellished with red velour fabric pieces to cover some of the worst structural damage, and with a commercially available embroidered butterfly patch added below waistband at center back. Labels: Evidence of rectangular tag having been sewn on right-side back pocket. Both back pockets have "W" stitching; Fly button engraved "Wrangler"; Tag sewn inside fly: "Wrangler / 30 x 34 / Sanforized / Made in U.S.A."; Zipper pull stamped "Gripper Zipper" and "Pat Pending"; Marked on left front pocket, inside pants: "GDW"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1935
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of black and purple diagonal woven stripe taffeta. It has a V- neckline in front and back, and has a fitted bodice with balloon peplum which gathers into the waist. Sleeveless, the dress has black velvet straps with striped flounces on each side and has black velvet petals attached to the straps. The long, straight skirt has a front slit. Dress has a center back zipper closure, and is unlined. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design