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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Sunburst Dress

Sunburst Dress

Date: 1990
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Black "sunburst" evening dress with bustle. The fitted, full-length sheath is of black silk satin with black velvet "sunburst" motif repeated over the dress. The gown is strapless, with diagonally draped over-panels that meet at center front and form a large bow which tilts up to cover the left shoulder. There is a zipper closure along the left sideseam with hook-and-eye closure at neckline which is concealed by the bust panel, which is snapped to the dress and bow. The back waistline seam has a three-tiered ruffled bustle which has a snap at left side to accommodate the zipper. The skirt flares from knee to hemline. There is a boned black silk inner bodice with bust pads and bust and waist stays. The inner bodice has a zipper closure at left side, just inside the outer zipper. Designer's label inside garment, stitched over right side bone: "Givenchy / Made In / France". Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows the gown as displayed with a hat by Balenciaga (Accession #: 1981.022.026).
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: De la Renta, Oscar
Description: Evening gown of ivory satin and black lace. Garment is a full-length, A-line ivory satin dress with 3 wide horizontal bands of applied black lace on skirt and an attached black lace empire-style over-bodice. The bodice, consisting of overlapping lace scallops, has a deep square neckline and full-length sleeves. There are two covered snap closures on each wrist and a series of paired covered snap closures down center back. The dress has a center-back zipper with a single hook-and-eye fastener at the neckline. The ivory silk inner bodice has internal steel(?) boning for shaping, and fastens with a center-back zipper and internal grosgrain band waist stay. Inside the gown is a full-length, attached ivory satin slip with horsehair hem. The dress is piece-lined in ivory organza with a horsehair hem. Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "4677S".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Tunic

Tunic

Date: 1970/1980
Creator: Curiel
Description: Tunic of gold brocade. Knee-length A-line tunic with open rounded neckline and 3/4-length sleeves. The neckline, cuffs and hem are embellished with applied bands of gold, silver, topaz and rose-colored bugle beads, sequins and rhinestones. Center back zipper closure with four hook-and-eye closures at the neckline.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Jumpsuit

Jumpsuit

Date: 1966/1967
Creator: unknown
Description: Jumpsuit of pink, yellow, green and blue horizontal striped paper. The full-length rayon fiber remay paper pantsuit has olive green, pink, blue and tan stripes. Bodice is sleeveless, empire style, with with high rounded neckline and narrow spread collar, with stripes going horizontally. There is a center back zipper closure from the neck to hip-level. Pants are full-length, wide legged palazzo pants with vertical stripes. The pant legs are slit from the hem to mid-calf, and are unhemmed. The piece is lined in a white rayon fiber paper cloth. Retailer's label at inside left beneath the collar: "Change-In-Time / Boutique / Dallas, Texas".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Date: 1980
Creator: McFadden, Mary
Description: Ensemble of gold and silver Lurex knit consisting of blouse and skirt. Long sleeved blouse with round neckline and ties at wrists. Trimmed at lower hem with wide black ribbon which ties at side. Matching full-length skirt. On both pieces the knitting is done to simulate the effect of fine pleating. Each piece has designer label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1965/1969
Creator: Jourdan, Charles, 1883-1976
Description: Pair of black suede boots. Over-calf-height square-toed boots lace up front, with 3 rows of eyelets at bottom and 15 hooks above. Block heel is covered in black suede. Lined in off-white kid leather and with a rubber and leather sole. Impressed in rubber sole: "Made in France". Stamped on lining inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "8 1/2 2A 468069 LE"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1970/1983
Creator: Jourdan, Charles, 1883-1976
Description: Pair of deep wine red leather pumps. Shoes have a V-throat on vamp and are edged with thin bands of taupe leather around vamp and along outside panel ending in a triangular shape. 3 1/2" Continental set-back heel almost a stiletto, but wider and more oval in cross-section. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "Orient". Stamped inside each heel: "39 B / 63586 E". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1948/1950
Creator: United States Shoe Corporation
Description: Pair of black suede pumps. Shoes have peep-toe design and are embellished across the vamp with an asymmetrical design in black ribbon and side 1/2 bow on outer side. 2 1/2" high continental set-in heels covered in black suede. Leather soles, grey leather lining. Printed grey cloth lining with logo "Lastep". Stamped inside heel of both shoes: "D13258 7 1/2A AAA / 6/A". Stamped on sole of each shoe: "The United States Shoe Co. / Reg U.S. Pat. Off. / Red Cross / Shoe" Stamped inside right shoe: "Red Cross Shoes" and "This product has no connection whatever / with the American National Red Cross". Use of the "Red Cross Shoe" brand was suspended during World War II when the American Red Cross objected. It was re-instated in 1948 on the condition they company publicly disclaimed all connection with the ARC. These shoes have the disclaimer stamped in the right shoe.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Reticule

Reticule

Date: 1880/1916
Creator: unknown
Description: Reticule. Drawstring handbag/purse of black knit with openwork band along top through which drawstring is threaded. Running around center of bag are three horizontal bands of blue beads bordered by silver/gold lined beads. Lower part of the bag is completely covered by horizontal bands of silver/gold lined beads and blue beads. Bottom of bag with large sphere covered with blue beads from which hangs tassel of silver/gold lined bead loops. Unlined. Has been dated 1880-1890 or ca. 1916.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mini Dress

Mini Dress

Date: 1965/1969
Creator: Remas of Scottsdale
Description: Sheath-style mini dress of pink linen with all-over eyelash fringe. The linen-weave garment is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. It is printed with an elongated honey-comb pattern in shades of pink and white with woven-in fringe throughout. At each shoulder is three circular pink cloth covered buttons. The honeycomb pattern starts out light pink, and darkens towards the hem of the dress. Lower hem is dagged, following the line of the pattern. Lined at hem and upper part in pink. Label in center back inside: "Remas / of Scottsdale" 96 cm.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1960/1968
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristobal
Description: Hat with long flowing black feathers falling from a sculpted black silk tulle crown.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Raincoat

Raincoat

Date: 1967/1978
Creator: La Flaque de Paris
Description: Raincoat of navy and white horizontal striped patent vinyl. The A-line coat is of short length, extending to just above the knee, and has long sleeves. Center-front opening has wide overlap, and is secured with 4 snaps. There are two side-seam pockets, and a red vinyl belt with square buckle. The coat is fully lined in dark maroon/purple/red taffeta. Coat has single label: "La Flaque / de Paris". Belt has repeated stamped on reverse: "Excel / Backing Guaranteed Wash or clean / as garment"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristobal
Description: Pillbox hat covered with draped silk scarf of black with pink polka dot print. Knotted accent on back states "Balenciaga" on pink border with frayed ends.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Coat and Skirt

Ensemble - Coat and Skirt

Date: 1968
Creator: Klein, Anne
Description: Ensemble. Coat and matching skirt (not shown) of woven upholstery-weight fabric with stylized floral and geometric designs in burgundy and blue/black on a creme ground. Coat is mid-length, flaring slightly to hem, with long sleeves and a center-front opening. The opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a curly "lamb's wool" died burgundy to match the pattern. Fully lined in burgundy silk(?) With separate sash/belt. Labels in coat: Designer's label "Anne Klein" with lion logo; Dallas, Texas retailer's label "Marie Leavell". Not shown is skirt in matching fabric, mid-length, with no trim.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ball Gown

Ball Gown

Date: 1960
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristobal, 1895-1972
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Evening dress of blue silk gazar. The full-length dress has a fitted bodice simulating a wrap style, with V neckline, and long straight sleeves with 5 fabric buttons at each wrist. The skirt has an asymmetrical peplum with an inverted opening in front that is equal to the floor length A-line skirt, giving the effect of an over-skirt pulled back to reveal an underskirt. At back is a zipper closure from neckline to below hips, with a series of snaps at the top of the peplum. The dress has an accompanying leather belt covered with the same blue silk gazar.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1992
Creator: De la Renta, Oscar
Description: Evening dress of black velvet and fuchsia satin. The dress has an empire-length bodice of black velvet, with a scoop neckline and long fitted sleeves which have hidden zipper closures. The Empire waistline is accented with a horizontal band of fuchsia satin with bow at center front. Extending down from the waistband is the full fuchsia satin skirt. The full-length skirt has vertical inverted pleats edged with bands of black velvet that extend from the waistband to just below the hips. At center back is a zipper closure. The bodice is lined in black silk, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner waistband which secures with hook-and-eyes. The skirt has an inner slip lining of fuchsia fabric with a wide fuchsia satin hem matching the skirt. Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "5638 F-92".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1980
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1960/1965
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1960
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1973
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots. Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France". This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076) Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design