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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
- Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30073/
- D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede.
Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear"
The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30078/
Purse / Handbag for afternoon use. Rectangular plain polished gunmetal / steel frame with ball/snap closure and matching chain of elongated links. Body of purse formed of gunmetal / steel mesh, with linked chain latticework along bottom edge, terminating in small spheres. Purse of gunmetal mesh, suitable for afternoon use.
Inside of frame is engraved "Bessie H. Brown" and "Dallas Texas 4205 Swiss Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30074/
Handbag. Arched frame of silver (plated?), lightly chased and engraved. Openwork areas on sides of frame allow rings from suspension chain to slide up and down acting as "locks". Mesh bag with enameled design of flowers. Inside bag are makers tag marked: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis Co. / Bags / Reg. U.S. & Can." and brand tag marked "El Sah". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30077/
Handbag. Rectangular silver art deco openwork frame set with tiny marcasites and circular cabochon black stones (onyx?). Bag is of black silk velvet. Handle of black silk velvet with two silver rings set with marcasites. Lined with dusty pink ribbed silk, and containing a small rectangular mirror.
Marked on frame: "MD" in a square; Diamond shaped mark with an M over a K; and an illegible shield-shaped punch. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30047/
Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels.
There are three labels in the coat:
Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co."
Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas"
Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30048/
Black velvet calotte (also spelled "calot") covered with faux pearls and diamonds. The circular domed hat has a narrow, up-turned brim which is completely covered with a latticework of oval faux pearls, with faux diamonds set at each intersection. At the top of the crown is an upstanding black velvet covered wire surmounted by a "mushroom cap" beaded in the same way as the rest of the hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon, the hat lined in black netting. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30041/
- Beachwear Ensemble - Bikini and Coverup
Beach ensemble consisting of bikini and coverup.
The bikini top and bottom are of jersey printed with a modern art design of greens, pink and red stripes. Top has ties that go up and behind neck, and bands that reach around to back and secure with metal clasp. At front, between the cups along top edge is a non-functional tie made of piping made from the jersey material. Bikini bottom is low-cut. The coverup is of light chiffon, possibly silk, with swirling stripes in the same pattern as bikini. It is sleeveless, has a boat neckline, and rounded hemline.
The pieces of the ensemble have various tags:
In bikini top: "12"
In bikini bottom: "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia"; Made in Italy / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus"; "Made in Italy"; "12"; Helanca / Filanca / Marche Int. Dep."
Stamped near hem of coverup: "Enzo Mari Per / Fio / Rio"; Sewn in tags: "Fio / Rio"; "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia".
Pattern designed by Enzo Mari (b. Novara, Italy, 1932).
From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30036/
Woman's black velour top hat. Designed after a man's top hat, this version has a cylindrical, slightly domed crown and narrow velour-covered brim which gently curves up. The brim has a second section below, also covered in black velour, that curves downwards, giving the brim an appearance of thickness. Around the lower part of the crown is a folded black silk taffeta grosgrain ribbon, with a large simulated silver metal buckle placed near the front on the right side of the hat. The buckle is of stamped metal simulating cut steel. The hat is lined in black silk.
Embroidered label sewn to lining inside crown includes an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30037/
Monastic Dress of red and black floral printed cotton. The dress is street-length, with natural shoulders, long sleeves and a high scoop neckline. At the waist is a black leather belt which passes through the garment at the sides, allowing the sides of the dress to be loose and flowing. The belt has a snap closure, and is designed to look "tied" at front.
Also referred to as a Trapeze dress.
Dress has two labels sewn inside at back of collar. Designer's label: "Claire McCardell Clothes / by Townley" and Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Belt has stamped in white on the back: "10 Claire McCardell 608"
From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30030/
Coat of floral brocade and blue velvet. The mid-length wrap coat is made of Jacquard woven silk(?)in a pattern of flowers in blues, taupe, and browns on a dark brown ground, with metallic gold stitching throughout. The raglan sleeves and the collar are edged in wide bands of gathered ruched aqua blue/green velvet. Center front opening with no closures. The coat is lined in aqua blue/green velvet.
No labels in garment.
Owned by Mrs. Carlton L. Yager of California, aunt of the donor, who called it her "Opera Coat". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30232/
Cloche-style hat of off-white wool felt. The hat has a deep, cylindrical, domed crown of off-white or cream felt which extends downwards on one side. Around the crown is black zig-zag stitching, and on the side where the crown extends downwards is an applied strip of felt, looped, secured through a stiffened loop of red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30234/
- Hopsacking Pants
Men's pants of embroidered "hopsacking". The tailored trousers are made in the style of jeans, but of an ochre/golden brown cotton hopsacking material. Full-length, the legs flare slightly to hems. Jeans-style pockets, two welt pockets on front and two patch pockets on back. Waistband has beltloops spaced throughout. Zipper fly at front with three buttons to secure waistband. The pants have an all-over embroidery in vertical and horizontal bands of stylized leaves, triangles, and other shapes in gold, white, green, yellow, and magenta.
There are no labels in the garment.
The Valerian Stux-Rybar collection of materials was donated by Jean-Francois Daigre to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in memory of Daigre's companion V.Stux-Rybar. Part of collection was subsequently transferred from the Metropolitan Museum of Art to the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30239/
Dress of printed cotton. The floor-length dress is of cotton with a printed geometric design of a lattice of black rectangles on white background. It is sleeveless, with black spaghetti straps. There is a wide black "belt" of "quilted" cotton just below the bust, with a bow in front. The dress has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures at top. It is fully lined in thin white fabric.
The designer's label is sewn inside bodice: "Clifton / Wilhite / Dallas"; a second label is sewn just below designer's label: "Lot 6464 Size 14" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30236/
Dress. Full-length sleeveless evening dress of printed silk. The bodice has a rounded neckline, bust darts, and widens slightly at hips. The silk print on the bodice is of horizontal stripes of black, yellow, green, and red. The skirt starts at a dropped waist, and is a slight "A" line in form. The printed on the skirt is of an Op Art pattern of pink, red, black, green, and purple squares and circles within squares, and with two large black squares, one on front and one on back. Black band at hem. The dress has a center back zipper closure and is lined in black silk. It has an accompanying black silk belt, 2" wide, with two domed buttons covered in black silk as closures.
The dress has two labels sewn inside at back collar, to right of zipper. Maker's label: "Axel / of Denmark / 42" and second tag "Pure silk / by D'Este" [care instructions pictographs] and on reverse [care instructions pictographs] "Made in / Italy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30233/
Dinner dress of printed silk organza. The dress is composed of two parts. The caftan-like outer layer of the dress consists of a square silk organza cocoon printed in psychedelic motifs in purples, blues, pinks and chartreuse. It has a high rounded neckline with center back opening secured with six loops and covered buttons. There are applied flat cuffs at the wrist openings and waist-level slits at center front to accommodate the sash. There is a center front slit from hem to knee-level.
The inner dress is a matching, full-length, sleeveless sheath in printed silk of the same design. It has a high rounded neckline with center back zipper closure from neck to hip with a single hook-and-eye closure at the neckline. The outer caftan and inner sheath are joined at the neckline. There is a printed silk organza sash of the same fabric that meets at center front and secures with two hook-and-eye closures and has self ties to disguise closure. The sash is swing tacked at the back. There is a center front slit from the hem to knee-level. Lime green silk panels are inset at sideseams, running from the underarm to the hem, and may be later additions to the garment. The dress is fully lined in green silk crepe.
Designer's label located inside left center back, beside the zipper: Pierre Cardin / Paris New York". Retailer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Maisonette / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30265/
Dress. Floor-length dress of ivory knit, overlaid with a gold netting. Sleeveless and with a boat-neckline, the sheath-style dress has ornate heavy gold cording around neckline, armholes, along side-seams, and hem. The skirt has small side slits, and a center lapped zipper closure located along center-back of garment with hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Lined with a light polyester. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30309/
Dress of multi-colored velvets. The floor-length dress has an empire waist and bell-shaped long sleeves. The upper, bodice, section is made of a sheer, multi-colored fabric woven with bands of gold thread. Over the bodice is applied sections of burnout velvet in various colors, forming bands running up the bodice, over the shoulders, and down the back, another band forming a 1" high collar, and as 2" bands around each wrist. The sections are bordered in gold cording. The lower, skirt, section is of green velvet printed in browns, greens, and gold in an abstract geometric/organic design. Fully lined in green silk(?). Center back zipper from neckline to just above waist. Three hook-and-loop closures on collar.
Designer label sewn alongside zipper at shoulder-blade height at right: "Ronald Amey / New York". Evidence of removed label at inside, center front of dress below neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30306/
- Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment.
The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/
- Evening Suit
Evening suit of black velvet. The ensemble consists of a jacket of black velvet with machine embroidered vine and floral motifs in black threads and black beads. The coat has a notched collar, long sleeves with wide cuffs and two non-functional buttons on each sleeve, and two non-functional pockets at front. Center-front opening with two circular black satin-covered buttons. The lapels, cuffs, and pocket flaps are all of black satin. The knee-length skirt of of the same fabric, with satin waistband. Short zipper closure at side with two hook-and-eyes in waistband.
Designer's label inside jacket at collar: "Givenchy", with model number written on cloth tape sewn underneath label: "74075" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30268/
Dress and belt. The dress has an empire-length bodice of white organdy with short sleeves, deep V-neckline in front and shallow boat neckline in back and is densely beaded with large and small white beads. From the lower edge of the beaded bodice a band of blue silk satin with a printed pattern of different sizes of white polka dots extends down to dropped waist length, covering the midriff. The full skirt, of the same polka dot material, is above-the-knee length, and has box pleats which start from the dropped waist level. The dress has a zipper closure along the left side seam of the midriff section, and the closure continues up along the lower part of the empire bust line seam to the base of the V-neckline with a series of alternating covered snaps and hook-and-eyes. The bodice section is lined with white organdy, the midriff section with blue silk, and the skirt is unlined. Designer's label is sewn inside bodice near right armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France", with a second label sewn underneath with handwritten notation "80932". The dress has an accompanying belt covered with matching blue fabric with printed polka dots and backed with black leather. The buckle is also covered with blue polka dot fabric. The belt has no labels or marks.
Not shown in photo are matching high-heeled pumps by Rene Mancini, Pairs, and matching envelope clutch handbag also by Mancini.
From Givenchy's Spring 1992 Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30252/
- Evening Dress, Purse, and Shoes
Gold patterned evening dress with jacket, shoes and clutch.
A) Jacket: tailored, cropped shell in peacock eye, gold metallic brocade with red and mauve highlights. Jewel neckline with full-length set-in sleeves. The neckline and cuffs are embellished with wide bands of gold cord, gold beads and large gold, yellow and red rhinestones. Fully lined in gold silk. Shoulder pads.
B) Dress: Fitted, slightly dropped waist, sleeveless bodice with scooped neckline and low plunging back. Centerback zipper closure with a single hook & eye at the neckline. Slightly dropped waistseam with full, gathered, pouf skirt. The skirt has an asymetrical hem falling from knee-level centerfront to mid-calf centerback. Sideseam hip-level pockets. The bodice piece lined with gold chiffon. Waist stay of gold silk.
Bust pads. The skirt is self lined with a rolled and poufed hem. There is a large tuck in the skirt lining, possibly from an alteration.
Label: "Givenchy / Made in France"
C-D) Shoes: matching gold brocade, high heeled pumps. Tan leather soles. Gold leather lining with stamped label in instep.
Label: "Rene Mancini / Paris / Fait Main"
E) Clutch: matching gold brocade envelope clutch with magnetic clasp closure. Pleated accents on flap. Gold interior clips for chain. Ivory silk faille lining with patch pocket.
Label: Rene Mancini. Paris. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30251/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat. The hat is of natural woven Milan straw, forming a wide shaped brim that curves downwards to the edges. Brim is rounded in front, flaring out slightly to back and forming two projecting lobes at back. Around brim is a band of woven straw for strength. Very low cylindrical crown, slightly domed. Around crown is twisted gold velvet band forming bow with trailing ribbons at back. Inside base of crown is off-white grosgrain ribbon band.
Sewn into inner ribbon band is label: "John Frederics Inc. / New York", "Made In America". Label has three rhinestones sewn to it, and has two small green ribbon bows at opposing corners. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30124/
- Evening Coat
Evening coat of black, metallic silver, and metallic gold brocade in a geometric "Byzantine" design. Full-length, with no collar and with 3/4 length sleeves. Center-front opening with 6 hammered brass buttons and loop button-holes. The center front opening, shoulders, and cuffs are accented with gold braid which has rhinestones set along the length. The coat is lined in yellow/orange silk crepe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30123/
- Platform Sandals
Pair of platform sandals. Shoes have gold kid leather upper, the vamp knotted. Black patent leather covered soles and heels. 4 1/4" high block-style set-back heel.
Written on inside of back strap on each shoe: "5 1/2 B 342440". Stamped on each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30172/
- Pillbox Hat
Hat of black silk tulle and satin in the form of a low pillbox of black silk tulle, tapering slightly to the shallow-domed crown. On the right side is a cascade of dyed green ostrich feathers.
No designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30179/
Cocktail hat of violet silk satin. The hat is formed of a low, cylindrical, flat-topped pillbox-style crown covered in drapes of violet/purple silk satin fabric. At center front/top of the crown are two large sculptural stiffened loops of the fabric. Crown is lined in cream fabric. Along inside lower edge of crown is a cream grosgrain ribbon band.
Donor stated: "...worn on back of head with upstanding loops in front, made for a grey lace three-quarter cocktail dress..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30176/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk satin with a puff of ostrich feathers at right side. Organza bow atop feathers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30178/
Hat of black silk chiffon. The hat is formed from a cylindrical pillbox style hat surmounted by a conical section that is folded back and flares out to form an extension behind the hat. Where the surmounting piece meets the pillbox is a black bow formed from the same cloth. Inside of crown is lined in stiff black netting, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the base of the crown. A small plastic comb is sewn in front of hat to inner ribbon to secure it to wearer's head.
The donor records that "... Balenciaga showed it with dress and sleeveless coat..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30135/
- Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket of brown and white printed silk plaid or tartan. The waist-length jacket has a turn-down collar and wrist-length sleeves. It is single-breasted with a center front opening with four large circular brown plastic buttons and piped buttonholes. The jacket is fully lined in off-white silk. Designer's label located inside below center back of collar: "Made in / France / Givenchy". The matching dress is mid-length, to just below the knee, with round neck and princess seaming. It is sleeveless, and has box pleats at lower part of skirt. There is a zipper closure at left side. The dress is lined with off-white silk throughout with the exception of the box pleated area. Designer's label at inside side seam near right armhole: "Givenchy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30165/
Hat in the form of a modified turban. The slightly flattened conical crown is flat across the top, with a roll at top and bottom. The lower brim gently undulates, forming lower areas at sides. The whole is covered in gold braid, spirals of black and gold ribbon, various colored rhinestones and blue/green/opalescent beads. The hat is lined in black satin(?), with black grosgrain inner hatband.
Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30272/
- Ensemble - Coat and Dress
a) Cocktail dress of dark green jacquard silk with black field in a pebble motif. Fitted bodice is sleeveless with slight scoop neckline. Gathered, A-line skirt with inseam pockets. Knee-length. Skirt lined in black silk and bodice partially lined at neck with black organza. Left shoulder separates with 5 snaps. Centered, left side zipper with strapped hook & eye.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA"
b) Coat of self fabric has sewn down, drawstring neckline. Three-quarter length raglan sleeves. Open front; knee-length. Fully lined in black taffeta with interlining of stiff netting for fullness.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30110/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of black silk crepe with jewel neckline, and three-quarter length sleeves; completely hand embroidered in turquoise, white and gold paillettes; knee-length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30109/
- Skirt Suit
Charcoal gray wool two-piece suit.
(a) Jacket: Fitted jacket of gray diamond twill wool; V-neckline with notched collar and peaked lapels; full-length, two piece, set in sleeves; lapped center front opening with two round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with snaps between buttons; fronts have shoulder and waist darts; two pairs of faux pocket flaps with buttons on fronts at bust and hip; back has low-slung, self fabric belt buttoned on above two faux vents at hem; fully lined in gray silk.
(b) Skirt: Matching princess line, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; straight hip yoke all around; inverted box pleat falls from yoke at center back; offset left side back zipper closure supplemented by one hook&eye closure on waistband; hem is faced with gray silk; fully lined in gray silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30131/
- Ensemble - Evening Gown and Stole
a) Evening gown of black wool and silk taffeta; top of wool with low scooped, curved neckline cut deep in back with 3/4 sleeves; fitted bodice extends to hip; skirt of silk taffeta; gathered; with silk underskirt. b) Stole of black wool with silk ruffled ends. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30159/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of bright brown satin and black velvet. Form fitted bodice of brown satin narrows at waist and dips to a center front seam, where fabric is gathered and drapes down to full-length skirt; black velvet skirt surrounds CF fabric and creates a fullness at hips.
Handwritten cloth tape label in skirt: "Charles James 47"
Accompanied by a brassier, not shown in photo.
Designer's Label: "This is an original / Madame Adrienne / 35 other pat. pend. / pat. 3072879" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30228/
- Evening Gown
Black velvet evening gown with beaded jacket.
a) Jacket: heavily beaded, sequined and embroidered. Cropped, tailored shell with the colors black, gold, green and burgundy predominating. Curved open neckline with full-length set-in sleeves. Piece embroidered. Fully lined in black silk.
Designer's label stitched center back, below neckline: "Oscar de la Renta" with hand written style number(?) "5250s"
Tag attached below designer's label: "Made in U.S.A."
b) Dress: Strapless, full-length, fitted black velvet sheath. Zipper closure down left side seam with hook&eye at the neckline. Hip-level pockets. Neckline, waistline and pockets decorated with gold cord and bugle bead trim. Decorative center front waistline accent of gold-tone metal trimmed with sapphire and emerald rhinestones. Black grosgrain waist stay with double hook&eye closures. Fully lined in black silk.
Designer's label stitched center back: "Oscar de la Renta" with hand written style number(?) "5250s"
Tag attached below designer's label: "Made in U.S.A." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30256/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of black lace and tulle with fitted bodice of black organza, silk tulle and lace. High rounded neckline with short sleeves; upper bodice is of black silk tulle; lower portion is of lace, tulle and organza; short tulle sleeves trimmed in black lace; waist seam bound in black satin; full-length, full circle skirt made of four layers of black silk tulle; outer layer has three rows of lace at the hem; outer two layers have horsehair supported hems and are swing tacked together; underskirt of black organza with tulle hem; zippered center back closure with hook & eyes at the neckline and mid-back; black grosgrain ribbon waist stay. Label stitched right of center back opening. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30260/
- Evening Gown
Black and white printed silk chiffon evening gown with belt and scarf.
A) Dress: formal evening gown in black on white. op-art printed silk chiffon with a predominant bullseye motif. Empire bodice with moderate front scooped neckline and plunging back scooped neckline. Full-length. set-in. flared chiffon sleeves. The bodice is heavily embroidered with black and white bugle beads repeating the bullseye motif. Centerback zipper closure from mid-back to hipline. Empire waistseam with semi-fitted. full-length. black on white. op-art printed. heavy silk underskirt with gathered. printed "bullseye" chiffon overskirt. The bodice is lined in white rayon faille. The skirt is lined in white rayon with the logo "Mori Hanea" woven into the fabric. Turned and bound hem.
Designer's label sewn inside at back: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori"
Retailer's label at inside back: "Neiman-Marcus"
Manufacturer label at inside back: "RN 35995 / Out Cloth Silk 100% / Lining Rayon 100% / Made in Japan / Dry Cleaning only"
B) Belt: matching black on white printed silk chiffon belt. Black leather backing. Square. covered. functional buckle. Tension closure.
C) Scarf: Matching black on white printed silk chiffon scarf. Long rectangular scarf with rolled hem. One side has a torn and missing portion. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30262/
- Skirt Suit
Three piece cocktail suit of black quilted silk damask.
Sleeveless tunic overdress (a) in a sheath style that overlaps in back with three covered buttons CB.
Matching skirt (b) that hangs 8 inches below dress.
Matching jacket (c) with bermuda collar, double breasted with three double rows of braided buttons and
straight fitted sleeves. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30266/
- Evening Ensemble
Evening ensemble consisting of gold brocade evening gown trimmed in white mink with matching coat and detachable train.
A) Evening coat of gold brocade. Ballerina length with short, dolman sleeves. Banded neckline. Center front opening is cutaway in front below waist and tapers to hem. Lined in gold metallic organdy.
B) Evening dress of gold brocade with white mink fur trim at the neckline and hips. Full length with princess seaming and slight A-line to skirt. Scooped back. Fur trim around neckline and back goes over shoulders to form straps of dress. Center back zipper. Belt of fur at hips closes in back the 3 covered hook & eyes. Skirt lined in white tulle. Bodice is boned and lined in white netting and closes in back with hook & eyes.
Designer's Label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris"
Model label behind designer's label: "74184"
C) Detachable train of gold brocade. Train is rectangular in shape and gathers into smocking where it attaches to back of dress with snaps and hook & eyes. Floor length. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30097/
- Dinner Dress
Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam.
Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30056/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of fuschia (cranberry) silk with black feather print; bodice has round neckline and three-quarter length sleeves; skirt is knee-length and very full, gathered at waist and covered by a short piece of self fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30095/
a) Gown of pale pink tulle heavily hand embroidered in pink flowers with silver metallic thread, sequins and rhinestones. Strapless with full-length, A-line skirt. Underskirt of ivory stiffened silk and lined in ivory silk.
b) Scarf of matching pale pink tulle.
c) Original pink satin ribbon sash/belt
d) Replacement modern pink satin ribbon sash/belt digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30105/
Dress of champagne colored chantilly lace; short sleeves; drop waist with gathered, full, knee-length skirt; babydoll style. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30113/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of black silk with black mink around the neckline and hem; V-neckline; sleeveless; full-length, A-line from waist. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30142/
- Ensemble - Coat, Tunic, and Pants
Ensemble consisting of:
a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress.
b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk.
c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers.
Designer Label: "EISA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30141/
- Skirt Suit
Two-piece suit of black and ivory plaid wool with black silk blouse.
(a) Jacket: Short unfitted jacket of black and ivory windowpane plaid wool; V-neckline with standard notched collar and short lapels.;3/4 length sleeves cut in one with jacket body supplemented by single triangular gusset under arm; lapped centerfront opening with three round, plastic, ivory buttons and bound buttonholes; front has a large pair of faux pocket flaps at lower chest level; fully lined in white silk.
(b) Blouse: Semi-fitted short black silk faille blouse with jewel neckline; 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with blouse body and supplemented by single triangular shaped gusset under arm; centerfront opening laps left over right with four round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with one snap at neck; folded hem; facings and hem interfaced with black silk organza. Label stitched at bottom of back neck facing.
(c) Skirt: Matching plaid semi-tailored, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; slight gathers at front waist; offset left side front zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure on waistband; folded hem; fully lined in white silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30115/
- Dinner Gown
a) Dinner gown with black crepe skier and white faille bodice; bodice is hand embroidered in irridescent rhinestones, sequins, silver thread, and crystal drops. b) 2" sash of bright pink satin at natural waist. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30174/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of black velvet with hand embroidered pearls, rhinestones, and beads along side seams and hem; sleeveless; full-length; scoop neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30143/