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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: (At Right) Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with bust darts, there is an attached bow of the same fabric just below the bust on the front. Slightly dropped waist, with box pleating from waist down the skirt. At front there are two box pleats that start at bow and continue down the front of the dress. Center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. It has 3/4-length sleeves and no collar. The center-front opening has no closures. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: McCardell, Claire
Description: Monastic Dress of red and black floral printed cotton. The dress is street-length, with natural shoulders, long sleeves and a high scoop neckline. At the waist is a black leather belt which passes through the garment at the sides, allowing the sides of the dress to be loose and flowing. The belt has a snap closure, and is designed to look "tied" at front. Also referred to as a Trapeze dress. Dress has two labels sewn inside at back of collar. Designer's label: "Claire McCardell Clothes / by Townley" and Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Belt has stamped in white on the back: "10 Claire McCardell 608" From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Schiaparelli, Elsa
Description: Cloche-style hat of off-white wool felt. The hat has a deep, cylindrical, domed crown of off-white or cream felt which extends downwards on one side. Around the crown is black zig-zag stitching, and on the side where the crown extends downwards is an applied strip of felt, looped, secured through a stiffened loop of red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Cocktail hat of violet silk satin. The hat is formed of a low, cylindrical, flat-topped pillbox-style crown covered in drapes of violet/purple silk satin fabric. At center front/top of the crown are two large sculptural stiffened loops of the fabric. Crown is lined in cream fabric. Along inside lower edge of crown is a cream grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. Donor stated: "...worn on back of head with upstanding loops in front, made for a grey lace three-quarter cocktail dress..."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat in the form of a modified turban. The slightly flattened conical crown is flat across the top, with a roll at top and bottom. The lower brim gently undulates, forming lower areas at sides. The whole is covered in gold braid, spirals of black and gold ribbon, various colored rhinestones and blue/green/opalescent beads. The hat is lined in black satin(?), with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of white straw. The beret-style hat of white straw, the crown formed of 8 segments. Extending from one side are two "swallow-tail" segments of off-white grosgrain ribbon. Inside of crown lined in panels of off-white grosgrain, and with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon, one white and one brown. Label sewn to brown inner hatband: "Belmar" (Possibly "Betmar")
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1953
Creator: Eller, Hazel
Description: Hat of white straw and navy blue/black embroidery appliques. The domed crown is of finely woven white straw. The narrow brim turns up at the edges, somewhat irregularly, and is edged in dark navy blue/black embroidery appliques that cover upper and lower parts of the brim. The inside of the crown has a dark navy blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made". Accompanied by two short hat-pins, one with a head covered in matching straw, the other with a simulated pearl head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Green-Field, Benjamin B.
Description: Pillbox hat of yellow plastic/vinyl tubing. Top of crown formed of a coil of the tubing bent into a square or diamond shape, encircled by more coiled tubing forming a circle, leaving open areas. The sides of the crown have other open areas, and form slight scallops at lower edge. Extending through the tubing from upper edge of crown is black net veiling, with small pieces of the yellow tubing worked into some of the intersections of the veiling. Interior of crown lined with yellow mesh, cut away at openings, and edged with a thin strip of beige/yellow velvet. Two small plastic combs are attached at either side to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's Label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"; a second hand-written label sewn in: "510" Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1953
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of pale yellow/tan straw. The sailor-style hat has a domed crown of pale straw encircled at the base with a band of pale yellow velvet with "bow" loop at back. Over the ribbon is a band of fine veiling. The circular brim is of the same straw on top, but is of double-thickness, the underside of white straw. The inside of the crown with a wide off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by two short hatpins, with red velvet and gold ribbon heads. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1952
Creator: Green-Field, Benjamin B.
Description: Pillbox hat of knit material with embroidery and mirrors. The black fabric of the hat is covered with yellow embroidered star shapes and small circular mirrors ca. 1.5 cm. in diameter bordered by red thread embroidery/crochet. Cylindrical crown formed as slightly "crushed", folding in in some areas and bulging out in others, and with gently scalloped lower edge. Top is generally flat, with an applied tear-drop shaped section of the same material, with trailing "ribbons" of same material extending off of back of hat. The edge of the applied panel and the lower edge of the crown are edged with alternating red and black beads, with two strands and two loops of the same beading descending from the between the "ribbons" at top. The inside of the crown is lined in red mesh and edged with red grosgrain ribbon. There are two plastic combs, one at either side, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design