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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat
Hat of navy blue wool felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat is formed as a low crown of navy blue wool felt. At the back of the crown are nine staggered tucks running from the lower edge of crown to top, and then being tucked over and into a cut-out from 9 uneven tucks which radiate downward from the top of the crown towards the front of the hat. The hat is unlined, with an inner black/navy blue grosgrain ribbon hatband around inside base of crown. A stitched mark on hatband indicates front of hat. Designer's label is sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label is sewn to inner hatband: "Washer Bros / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39227/
Hat
Hat of red straw. The domed crown is of woven red straw which appears as a finely woven thin straw ground with a secondary wider red straw woven throughout forming an "overpattern". The wide brim turns up deeply, forming a bowl around the crown. The upper part of the brim, which faces the crown, shows the finely woven pattern, while the underside of the brim, which faces outwards, has the same secondary wider straw patterning. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Styled by / Coralie" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39226/
Hat
Hat of red straw. The low crown has a shallow conical top. The brim is narrow, but tightly rolled up at edges. At the front of the hat is an "s" curl of matching straw set against the crown, inside the brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon inside the base of the crown. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co. / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39073/
Calotte
Hat of green felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed green felt crown, and a brim that folds up around the crown, extending almost as high as the crown in front. At the base of the crown, within the area of the brim, is a gather of brown veiling/netting that runs about 3/4 of the circumference of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband at the inside base of the crown. A stitched mark on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's / Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" Stamped inside crown: "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39094/
Hatlet
Hat of pale pink fine straw. The low, rounded crown is of woven fine pale pink straw with gold edging. At front of hat are two "petal" shapes emerging from the upper part of the crown and extending forward and down at the front of the hat. The shapes are of the same woven straw, edged in pink satin. The hat has a veil of fine pink netting, now partly perished. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of pink grosgrain ribbon around inside base of the crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Volk". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39096/
Hat
Hat of bright, light orange felt hat. The domed crown is wrapped with a pleated pale orange silk chiffon band, over which is a second layer of a very light gray/smoke colored net. The orange felt brim curves downwards. The underside of the brim is lined with the orange felt, while the crown is lined with white silk with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39217/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat covered in dark green/black feathers, overlaid with floral appliques of black beading. Lined in black satin, edged with a thin band of dark jersey material and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label inside: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending almost from edge to edge across inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39220/
Cloche Hat
Modified cloche hat of dark blue velour. The oval body of the cloche is designed to be worn cross-wise on head, with one side dipping lower than the other. The sides are decorated with star motifs in dark blue sequins, beads and velvet circlets. Unlined, with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon and edged with a dark purple(?) band. Designer's and Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" Stamp on inside crown illegible. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39215/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of bright pink straw with flower-like decoration of white iridescent petal shaped paillettes, 3 rhinestones and pearl center with white chenille stem held in place by small bow of self. Two grosgrain covered wire loops at sides to secure hat to head. Pink veil. Designer's label on inside hatband: "JR / Janyth Roy / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39207/
Hat
Hat of black wool felt. Formed as a high-crowned hat with floppy brim, the domed crown has concave sides held in part by wide black silk satin ribbon with bow and trailing ends at back. Brim is wired and irregularly undulating at rim and is trimmed with black felted wool ribbon. Inside lined with black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Small stitched mark on inner band indicates front of hat, and small applied cream ribbon bow indicates back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". The label is very large, and part of "Paris" and all of "York" are cut-off. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39224/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of off-white and pink brocade. The conical crown with flattened top is made of brocade fabric with flowers and butterflies in off-whites, gray/greens and pinks on a grayish ground. On the right side of the hat is a large bow made of strips of the brocade backed in a gray/blue. The center of the bow is encircled with a band of gray beads, with a matching band of beads at base of hat. The hat has a light tan veil. The hat is lined in gray/blue mesh and edged with an inner hatband of gray/blue grosgrain ribbon. A small plastic comb is attached at either side to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39203/
Hat
Mushroom hat of red strawcloth and tucks on four corners. Interior headband covered in same to secure hat to head. Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39146/
Hat
Hat of black straw in pancake shape with back turned up to form a fold giving semi-circular shape to hat. Small black velvet bow in back. Designer's label: "Adrian / Custom" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39128/
Hat
Hat of rust colored straw with curved brim wider in front and rolled in back. Green velvet ribbon trim. Tucked crown & tan silk lined brim. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Paris / Molli / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39160/
Calotte Hat
Calotte hat of brown velvet. One hatpin with black, avocado shaped head. Brim and top center seam meet to form V-shaped opening. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Balenciaga Hats . Paris" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39200/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of brown straw cloth with brown veil. Left brim of hat circles to form a loop that folds under the right side of the hat. Designer's label with two set in rhinestones on inside of crown: "John Fredericks / New York" Vertical portion of designer's label: "Made in America" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39171/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of dark brown straw cloth with small visor brim. Brown grosgrain ribbon surrounds brim. Large button of metallic thread attached to crown with 3 matching buttons hanging from grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label attached to inside brim: "Exclusive Millinery / Pfeifers / Little Rock" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39186/
Calotte
Calotte of pink velvet and feathers. The hatlet is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") created of a curved oval/slightly teardrop-shape of layered/draped and folded pink velvet, set across head so that point is at center of right side and curve is at center of left side. The crown is overlaid with a cascade of pink feathers which runs from just above center of left side, across hat, and falling down on right side, with feather ends curling in and under. The hat is lined with pink mesh, and has an inner hatband running around the inside edge of the crown. Affixed to inner hatband at left side is small plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon". Accompanied by short hatpin with simulated pearl mounted on head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39219/
Hat
Hat of green velvet. The low, domed crown of dark green velvet is surrounded by a band of the same fabric, with a wide "belt loop" at back. The brim is off-center, some what wider at front, also of dark green velvet, very full and somewhat gathered into the band around the crown. The crown is lined in black mesh, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon. A small taupe stitched start on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39042/
Calotte
Hat of gray felt, burgundy velour, and black sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), formed of a base of stiffened gray felt, overlaid with a layer of burgundy velour. The domed crown extends further down on right side than left, curling out at rim. The crown is covered in black sequins, with an edge of the velour showing slightly at front and back, more at right side. The hat is unlined, with inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. A small stitch in the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene / New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39052/
Hat
Hat of artificial flowers. The hat, styled as a modified calotte (also spelled "calot"), is formed of a low slightly domed crown extending at front and back of stiffened mesh completely covered with artificial flowers of pink and white silk and with green silk leaves and wired stems covered in green silk. The hat is unlined, the under layers of mesh visible. Inside the crown at the sides are two short sections of brown grosgrain ribbon with attached small plastic combs to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Sewn inside the crown is designer's label: "Irene of New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39228/
Hat
Hat of white mink. Styled as a low turban, the hat is of white, bleached mink. When seen from above, the hat appears as a tight spiral of white fur. The hat is lined in white satin, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to lower edge of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39223/
Hat
Small turban style hat made of wide navy blue straw covered with navy veil. Designer's label on inside brim: "Irene of New York" Retailer's label on inside brim: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39181/
Hat
Juliette cap of red satin with edge of red straw. Brim covered in red velvet. Long red netting has velvet covered ends with pearl set in center. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39185/
Hat
Calotte-style hat of light brown velvet. Beige and red feathers as trim on front brim and bow of self on back. Lined in golden yellow satin with grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Small stitched mark on band showing front of hat. Designer's Label: "Hattie Carnegie" Retailer's Label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39130/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat made of brown net covered with green silk leaves and violet rose buds. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39050/
Daytime Dress
Daytime dress of printed cotton lawn. Street-length of white cotton lawn is printed with stripes of grays and coral is sleeveless, with wide straps and V-neckline in front and back. The bodice is cut so that stripes are diagonal, meeting at center front and back and emphasizing the V-neckline. The narrow waist is slightly dropped, and is defined by a wide set-in decorative belt of the same fabric, with stripes running horizontally, with fabric-wrapped rectangular buckle and ends. The full skirt has stripes running vertically, and is gathered at the waist/bottom of the belt. There is one underskirt of cream faille, and a second of stiff cream netting. The center-back zipper closure extends from single hook-and-eye at neckline to base of belt. Bodice is partly lined with cream faille and has internal boning. There is a white grosgrain ribbon inner waistband with hook-and-eye closures. Designer's label is sewn inside dress, to bodice lining at left side: "Adele Simpson". This dress was a gift of the designer Adele Simpson and her husband Wesley Simpson to the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86983/
Petti-Hoop
Petti-hoop of steel hoops within a white cotton petticoat. A modified form of cage crinoline consisting of three graduated steel hoops that open with snaps that fit within horizontal pockets of the full-length petticoat. Petticoat has gathered waist and eyelet lace at hem. Maker's label sewn in: "Petti-hoop / Created by / Ru-Nell / Pat Pend #494517" Size label, "10". The Ru-Nell Manufacturing Co. was founded by Fred Poole in 1935 in Yorkville, Georgia, USA. The company was named after his wife Ruby, and his oldest daughter Nell. Originally producing chenille bedspreads, they began to manufacturing "Petti-hoops" after their daughter Dorothy was unable to find a petticoat/hoop set to wear for a Southern Bell Ball in the 1950's. Ruby Poole designed the first one, and it became so popular that they went into production. Later they were produced as wedding gown underpinnings. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87029/
Pumps
Pair of ladies' red leather Mary Jane style pumps. Designed with rounded toes and closed by a low and thin Mary Jane strap and buckle just above the vamp. Sole of natural black leather with black wooden heel. Medium-height broad heel with a slight curve at the back, broadening to align with the heel seat and a slightly concave straight front, similar to a Cuban heel. Stamped on the shank inside left shoe in gilt: "Neiman-Marcus" Stamped on the shank inside right shoe in gilt: "Best shoes you can buy are the best buy! / Delman / De Luxe" Stamped on the heel inside both shoes in gilt: Delman Logo (Image of a woman at a shoe fitting with the description: Delman / New York / Chicago / London / Paris) Handwritten inside shoe: "C81092 / 5223-6aw / 6aa / Petti" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86973/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of white cotton. The plain, daytime gloves are wrist-length. Retailer's label sewn inside: "Made in Western Germany / expressly for / Neiman-Marcus / 100% Cotton" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87016/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of white cotton. The daytime gloves are wrist length, with 3 tucks at top along back of hand, and a 1/2" fold-over band at wrist hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87017/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of tan suede. The wrist-length gloves are plain, with hand-stitching. Size/Designer Label stamped inside: "7 / Made in France / by / Roger Fare" Retailer Label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87018/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of pale green metallic lamé. The shoes are designed with pointed toes which are squared-off at the tip, and a squared vamp. The stiletto heels are covered in same fabric, and flare slightly to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "6 AAA 7913-52D / 25269" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114837/
Hat
Jockey cap of navy felt. Hemispherical crown formed of 6 triangular segments. At top of crown is a small green enameled "apple" shaped charm, one green enameled spherical bead, and one orange enameled bead. At front of cap is crescent-shaped bill with inner wired edge. Cap is unlined. No labels in cap. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114891/
Beret
Beret of light beige or cream colored angora wool. Machine knit, hand-finished. Italian import. Label sewn inside: "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114845/
Pumps
Pair of striped satin pumps. Shoes of pintucked satin in blues, greens, cream, pinks, purples, etc., with stripes running across vamp, and vertically up the sides and upper part of heel, and horizontally across the spike. Each shoe marked inside vamp: "7AA A2649". Stamped on left shoe: "Herbert Levine"; Stamped on right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114758/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black and white satin. Long torso fitted top. Sleeveless, with wide boat neck of black satin. Zipper down the back. Full harem skirt of black, white, and grey striped and dotted silk with one large black satin bow at hip line and another bow of same at the hem of the short, "balloon" style skirt. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris" and "Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114831/
Cloche Hat
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114739/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of brown fur. The pillbox crown is formed of a cylinder of brown fur. Lined with metallic weave fabric with stripes of red, green, gold metallic, edged with brown grosgrain ribbon and with a band of gold rickrack. At each side, attached to inner band, is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside back edge: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114963/
Hat
Calotte style hat of black felt with rolled under brim. Cluster of back feathers along brim covered by black veil. Small bow of self. Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Glenover / Henry Pollak, Inc. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114966/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of golden yellow/brown fur felt. The cylindrical crown is slightly domed at top, and the sides slant slightly outwards to base. At left side, near front, is a "brush" of golden yellow/brown "feather-hay", held in place by a line of rhinestones which curves at each end. Hat is lined in tan fabric with printed designs in one quadrant. Inner hatband of brown/yellow/tan grosgrain ribbon. Evidence of holes to attach combs at each side to secure hat to wearer's head, now missing. Designer's label inside at back edge: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114956/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of rust colored fur felt. Black velvet trim with self-covered button on left side of crown. Lower edge of inside crown trimmed with black velvet. Unlined with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "The Halle Bros. Co." Inside crown stamped: "Musketeer / Imported Body / Made in Austria" Size tag on inside hatband: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114959/
Toque Hat
a) Toque of red/orange and yellow print wool. Two hatpins with spherical heads covered in material matching toque and head scarf. Lined in white with "Mr John" pattern in gold. Designer' label on inside hatband with rhinestone studded, tabbed ends: "Mr. John" b) Scarf of matching material with large square of lattice work crochet netting of red/orange in middle of scarf to provide veiled effect. Designer's label: "Mr. John" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277084/
Hat
Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277030/
Capulet Hat
Capulet style hat of red silk faille with 3 folds of self on either side. Red, slightly stiffened nose veil. Designers label: "MR. JOHN" Measurements: (Veil not included in measurements) L: 13 cm W: 49 cm H: 11 cm digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277080/
Hat
Hatlet made of black silk taffeta with 5 silk leaves off front of crown and bow of self in back as trim. Black net veil interspersed with chenille balls. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277069/
Dress - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Kutchi Dress of the Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Full-length. Bodice of various fabrics and embellishments. Rounded neckline with slight standing/band collar of primarily yellow bead-work with blue bead squares containing red bead centers. "Collar" below neckline of pendant silver-colored coins. Shoulder areas of purple with primarily yellow stitching forming scroll-work. Front "bib" of dark red outlined with same bead-work as neckline, and sewn with 9 horizontal rows of green tear-drop shaped beads and a line of silver-colored coins. Center part of bodice of black fabric with all-over red reflective circles. Wide "waist" of dress with geometric bead-work band of white, green, red, blue, and orange, with band of small circular mirrors and two lower borders of fringe tipped with white and green beads, and lowest border of coins. Sleeves of dark green velvet with bands of rickrack of silver and gold, and stitching matching the shoulder areas. Edged with bead-work and with row of silver-colored coins. Skirt is full-length, and full, and is of dark blue/black fabric printed with white and grey pattern of small flower blossoms, paisley shapes, dots, leaves, etc. Hem of dress with wide embroidered band, upper section with horizontal band of squares of various colors (reddish, green, orange, pale green, purple), center band of yellow, and lower band of reddish/magenta. Unlined. No labels or tags. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276981/
Terno
Traditional Philippine terno ensemble of gold silk and mesh made from rengue, a stiff pineapple fiber material. A) Skirt (Saya) of stiffened gold silk with black lined embroidered circles and wavy black ribbon embellishment. Full-length, with long rectangular train in back. B) Top (camisa) of mesh pineapple fiber. Cropped-length, with wide, full, elbow-length sleeves gathered at armholes. Sleeves with circular embellishments. C) Chemise of pale orange rayon with cutwork and machine embroidery hem and neckline. Sleeveless, full-length. D) Scarf/fichu (alampay) or shawl (Panuelo) of mesh pineapple fiber with circular embellishments. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277017/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of magenta satin. Sides of crown with horizontally pleated "fans" or waves of self material. At front of hat is pewter-toned metal and rhinestone ornament with pink feather spray behind. Ornament is square shaped with large, red faceted stone and four small, red faceted stones in each corner of the square. Around crown is fine magenta netting/veiling. Lined in black. Retailer's label inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus" Size label: "22". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276986/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of red velvet with red feather trim and lace interior lining. Designers Label: "Amy / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277115/