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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1930-1939
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat
Hat of green felt. Designed as a modified cloche, the had is formed of a deep, domed crown of green felt with a rolled edge at back that extends to become a high, curved brim in front. The front extension is crowned by a feathered ornament formed as a stylized bird looking downwards. The "bird" has tan and dark feathers for the tail, green feathers for neck and breast, and a black plastic(?) beak. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark gray/bronze colored net, which extends at front and sides to become a veil. Around inside of crown is dark brown/black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30118/
Hat
Raised beret-style hat of creme felt. Stiffened body of hat has a sienna/orange-brown grosgrain ribbon bow at top of crown, with tails of bow extending to sides, along front to edge, and trailing off of the back of the hat. The hat is surmounted by a light-brown plume of ostrich feathers. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. There is a thin black elastic strap to go around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn to inside band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30043/
Dress
Dress of printed nylon with metallic embroidery. The fabric is a printed nylon with abstract floral designs in browns, yellows, and oranges on a cream ground, with areas of metallic embroidered leaf forms over the whole of the dress. The formal dress is full-length, with a slight train. Sleeveless, it has wide straps and a shallow rounded neckline, which deepens into a V in back. The natural or low waist has seaming below below the bust to create a band of horizontal ruching just above the waist. The skirt has wide, deep scalloping around the edges. On the back of the dress is a bow of the same material, set just above the lower back. From the hips around to the back are added panels of the same fabric forming tiers of ruffles, and two long panels are attached below the ruffles to hang down back. Closure along left side, alternating snaps and hooks-and-eyes. The dress is unlined, although the back ruffle panels are lined in a dark mahogany brown/red silk. Sewn in ribbon with hand-written notation: "72 20 499 29-327/979" (faded) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30001/
Pumps
Pair of green suede pumps. Vamp of shoe with 5 bands of green satin ribbon running across the vamp and throat. The throat has V-cut sections on either side, with crossing bands of suede where the V intersects the ribbon. Lined in cream/grey kid leather. 2 1/2" high modified continental heels, covered in green suede. Stamped inside right shoe: " 'Charmant' / Fashions / A. Harris & Co. Dallas". Noted inside both shoes: "38 - 0 14465" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30091/
Evening Sandals
Pair of heeled sandals. Uppers made of black peau du soi silk crepe over leather. Edged in gold kid leather. Vamp formed of three bands, each with applied central black silk circular piece with attached gilt metal neoclassical head. Shoes buckle at side with oval gilt metal buckles set with rhinestones. 2 5/8" Boulevard-style heel. For late afternoon or evening wear. Inscribed in each shoe: "Sp14630 / 58545" Labels: In right shoe: "DELMAN / New York - Chicago - London - Paris"; In left shoe: "BERGDORF / GOODMAN". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30027/
Hat
Hat of camel-colored cashmere felt. The crown is roughly cone-shaped, swelling at center and flattened at an angle at the top. Near the bottom of the crown is a band of black grosgrain ribbon, below which the hat swells out to become the asymmetrical brim. At center back is black grosgrain ribbon bow, to which is attached trailing golden tan/brown ostrich plumes. Inside crown is hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn onto the inner ribbon is designer's label: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30104/
Dress
Dress of black and purple diagonal woven stripe taffeta. It has a V- neckline in front and back, and has a fitted bodice with balloon peplum which gathers into the waist. Sleeveless, the dress has black velvet straps with striped flounces on each side and has black velvet petals attached to the straps. The long, straight skirt has a front slit. Dress has a center back zipper closure, and is unlined. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30320/
Dress
Dress of blue, green, pink, and black taffeta and satin in horizontal woven bands. The full-length dress has a sweetheart neckline which gathers at bust to simulate a bow. The fitted bodice has short raglan-style sleeves with gathers at the shoulder seams. The long skirt is gathered at the natural waist. The dress is unlined, and has hook-and-eye closures on left side along bodice. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30319/
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Evening ensemble of a dress, jacket and belt. The full-length sleeveless evening dress is of black silk, with a slim silhouette. It has a wide, shallow V-neck at front, and has decorative twist in the fabric at back, which creates a deeper V. The wide straps are ruched at front with non-functional rhinestone-encrusted clasps sewn to them. The bodice has decorative seaming under bust and around the hips. The dress has a black silk belt with a rhinestone-encrusted "buckle", which functions as a large hook-and-eye rather than a buckle. The jacket is of matching black silk, lined with a cream-colored taffeta. The short, bell-shaped sleeves have a second "layer" creating the effect of a wide ruffle. Padded tubes of silk curve along each shoulder, tapering under the arm at front and back. There is a center front opening with no closure, which is "cut away" in a curve at front, giving the overall effect of a miniature 'cropped' opera cape. No labels in either garment. Possibly acquired by Ms. Hewett in France in the 1930's while studying medieval music manuscripts. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30154/
Calotte
Black velvet calotte (also spelled "calot") covered with faux pearls and diamonds. The circular domed hat has a narrow, up-turned brim which is completely covered with a latticework of oval faux pearls, with faux diamonds set at each intersection. At the top of the crown is an upstanding black velvet covered wire surmounted by a "mushroom cap" beaded in the same way as the rest of the hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon, the hat lined in black netting. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30041/
Gloves
Pair of ladies' gloves. The "hands" are of pale brown with white fabric, possibly a silk/cotton blend. Seamed on inside, they have 3 darts on back of each hand done with dark brown stitching. At wrist on each side is a v-shaped extension which joins to the "cuff", which is of light brown cotton with yellow tones. The scalloped edges of the "cuff" and semi-circular sections on the back of each are piped in dark brown fabric. The "cuffs" are styled as a wrap dress, with an overlap at back of wrist. The overlap has a single cylindrical button of black plastic designed to appear carved with three notches in the side revealing pale green/yellow below and at ends. Manufacturer's tag inside gloves: "Kayser, 52 * Reg / Made in Germany / 6"; Stamped in lining by tag: "Kayser 52". The gloves are accompanied by the original paper care tag: "WASH / GLOVES / ON HANDS / Use almost cool / water and a pure / mild soap. We re- / commend PALM- / OLIVE BEADS. Do / not rub. After wash- / ing take gloves off / rinse thoroughly in / cold water. Pull / lengthwise wrap / and squeeze in / towel. Then stretch / into shape and / leave to dry / KAYSER / The Name on every pair / Made in Germany / Trade Marks / Rege Krussig." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38131/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black velour with extended right side. Extended side has 3 cutouts covered with net. Stamp on inside crown: "Dubarry / illegible" Designer's label: " Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39222/
Hat
Hat of brown felt. Hat has a high, cylindrical crown, slightly "crumpled", with an asymmetrical brown felt brim that extends out and curls upwards. Highest point of brim is at front of the hat. Round crown, above mid-point, is hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon embellished with branching forms of beading, sequins, and metal leaves. This band meets at back and has extending segments cut at angles hanging from the back of the hat. Dark brown grosgrain ribbon hatband inside crown, with thin elastic cord fastened on either side to act as chinstrap to secure hat to wearer's head. The crown of the hat is composed of two sections of felt with the band of grosgrain ribbon between them. From inside of hat the back of the ribbon and the stitching of the beading is visible. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39205/
Hat
Hat of ecru velvet. The domed upper section of the crown has closely shirred sides and circular upper panel. The sides of the crown are of smooth velvet, with horizontal folds and large applied velvet bow at back with slight trailing ribbons. The medium-width brim is also covered with tightly shirred velvet matching the upper sides of the crown. The underside of the brim is covered in velvet with light pleats. The inside of the crown is lined in cream silk(?). There are no designer, retailer, or maker's labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39231/
Headpiece
Headpiece of chicken wire, sequins, and beads. The bandeau or tiara form has a base of curved metal fitting across the wearer's head, on top of which is a segment of chicken wire which is embellished with sequins, glittery material, beads, and one small rhinestone brooch at center. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39056/
Turban
Modified turban of black flannel/jersey. The oval form constructed to be worn cross-wise on head, with circular fan of black feathers at right side, and radiating section of shirring at left. Unlined, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Shirred area backed with stiffened net/fabric panel. Designer's / Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc. / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39218/
Juliet Cap
Juliet-style hat of light blue felt with four teardrop-shaped appliques of iridescent sequins and faux pearls outlined in clear beads across front. Wire frame covered in light blue velour. Unlined. Retailer's Label: Volk digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39213/
Skimmer
Skimmer hat of straw and silk. The skimmer, or boater style hat has a low woven straw crown with flat top. Around the crown is a matching woven straw ribbon edged in brown silk, with a bow at back. The wide, flat brim is of woven straw, covered with brown silk matching the trimming of the band on the crown. The silk covering is quilted in a pattern of concentric bands with running wavy lines. The crown and underside of the brim are unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband at base of crown. Extending from the inner hatband are two panels of brown silk, forming a chin-strap with black cord knot fastener. A small "F" is stitched to inner hatband to indicate the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / Maynor Hats / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39165/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. The sculptural piece is designed with elements of both a beret and a beanie. The crown is of oval shape with upwards sweeping and twisting panels of felt which meet at a point at the top of the crown. The shape is primarily held by blocking, with a few small stitches to maintain it. The base of the crown is sewn to a band of the same felt at bottom edge, forming an in-ward curving brim. The hat is unlined, the inner edge trimmed with black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitch mark on ribbon indicates the front of the hat. A think black cord attached to the ribbon helps secure the hat to wearer's head, to be looped around the back of the head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Charles James / 15, Bruton Street, W.I." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39145/
Hat
Hat of royal blue velour. The crown is somewhat domed, of pieced velour, with a band of rolled dark blue satin around the base. The wide brim of matching velour is shaped to dip down and turn up slightly around the crown. The hat is unlined, with a band of dark blue grosgrain ribbon sewn in between the inner edge of the crown and the brim. Designer's label sewn inside: "Rose Descat / Paris", with a second label sewn to lower edge of designer's: "Made In France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39140/
Hat
Hat of black fur and felt. The body of the hat is of black felt, overlaid at sides with black fur. The crown is styled somewhat as a toque, with vertical sides, and a sunken top. At back, the sides "tie", forming a bow of felt edged with fur. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and with a braided elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Merilyn / Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87087/
Hat
Hat of black wool. The crochet hat is designed as a cylinder, the top flat, the front cut back, angling down at sides and across back. At sides and back is a fringe of black beads. The hat is unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87076/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black feathers. Designed on a stiffened base, the hatlet forms a band across head from side to side, shaped as curled wings, overlaid with black feathers. Lined in black stiff net, with a black grosgrain inner edging. Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87095/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue felt and feathers. The low, oval, domed crown is made of spaced strips of navy blue felt arranged as concentric circles, secured to cross-strips, and with a knotwork interweaving at the back into which are secured a spray of dark blue feathers. The hat is unlined, with a dark blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Emme / Inc. / 21 East 56th Street / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87097/
Hat
Hat of sequins and feathers. Styled somewhat as a bowler, the base of the hat is of a stiffened net, the oval, low crown domed and covered with layered, curved strings of black sequins. The brim is of the same construction, turned slightly down, and with a slight "wave" along the sides and back. At side is a large pouf of gray/black ostrich feathers. Lined in black, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Emme / Inc. / 21 East 56th Street / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87098/
Hat
Hat of brown velveteen. Designed somewhat as a cloche, the close-fitting crown is shaped to fit around the head almost as a cylinder with lower edge that follows up and around face. At top of hat is a circular disk which is set with a starburst of small pearls. Around the top of the crown is a further ring of pearls, and on each side over ear are a small starburst of pearls. The hat is lined in quilted golden fabric. No labels in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87094/
Hatlet
Hatlet of green velvet. The low, domed crown is encircled by a wide band of pleated green velvet bands, a large green velvet bow, and five clusters of magenta velvet strawberries with green velvet leaves. The hat is lined in the same green velvet, and has two small faux tortoise shell combs inside to help secure to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Emme" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87096/
Hat
Hat of brown-red cotton blend with 2 rosettes of dark cream fabric accented with purple ribbon and fringe of blue and green felt on each side. Hat has a close fitting cap-like shape with 2 triangular wing-like extensions extending up from each side. Within the hat is a thin, elastic cord which goes around the back of the head to hold the hat in place. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87103/
Bonnet
Baby bonnet of pale pink silk with ruched brim. Wide ribbon ties. Decorated with ivory ribbon embellished with satin rosebuds. Lined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87052/
Bonnet
Baby bonnet of ivory cotton tulle. Front of bonnet trimmed in ribbon forming bows on brim. Ties of matching ribbon. Lined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87053/
Headband
Headband of black felt draped and decorated with brightly multicolored plaid silk taffeta. Loop of plaid fabric in front held by large brass hatpin with head of three branches of three leaves each. Ends of fabric tie in back with hanging, frayed ends. Designer's label: "Paris 420 Rue St. Honoré / Erik / Londres" Label above designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86977/
Hat
Hat of almond green felt with a narrow rolled brim. Shallow crown hand sewn to brim with rolled edge. Gathered on side with felt roll and feather trim. Bow of same on back. Designer's label on inside hat brim: "Estelle Peters / 50 E. 56th St. N.Y." Stamped at inside base of crown: "Merrimac / Merrivale / Fur Felt" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114818/
Hat
Hat of green felt. Based in part on a "Eugenie-style" hat, the domed crown is of Kelly green felt surrounded by an asymmetrical cut brim which is rolled up at one side. Rolled brim is hand-sewn to crown, and narrows to point in back. Affixed at cut/roll is spray of vari-colored pheasant feathers. Hat is unlined, with Kelly green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to the inner hatband are two small simulated tortoise shell combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn inside at hatband: "Estelle Peters / 50 E. 56th St. N.Y.". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114819/
Hat
Hat of wheat colored straw with small brim turned up in back. Crown creased across top. Grosgrain pear green colored ribbon trims crown and forms bow in back. Lacquered canary used at trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114886/
Eugenie Hat
Eugenie style hat of wine colored felt and velour with shallow crown. Ostrich plumes at crown. Label inside hat: "Lorie" Label inside hat: "Reproduction 'illegible' / Madame Lucy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Size label: "registered model / 22 1/2" Label inside hat: "Millinery Creators Guild" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114820/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox like hat of burnt sienna colored velvet. Standing brim and self bow. Top knot of self as trim. Crown close fitting like a calotte. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Erik Braagaard / Paris / 8 rue St. Florentin" Label attached to top of designer's label: "Made in France" Model label under designer's label (partly illegible): "00 314" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114877/
Beret
Beret of yellow pin stripe velvet. Lined in silk. Designer's label on inside crown under netting: "J. Suzanne Talbot / Modes / modele depose / Rue Royale . Paris, 14 Rue Royal" Tag on inside hat brim: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114858/
Hat
Hat of black wool felt in fedora style. Wide brimmed; sunken crown. Red leather trim at crown cut down center with pinking cut and supplemented with wound strands of green leather and braided with wound strands of green leather on opposite side. Ends of hatband are connected with large wooden toggle. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114869/
Turban
Turban style hat of royal blue, corded velvet. Cords are twisted and braided over all of hat. Grosgrain hatband with silk lining (deteriorated). Designer's label: "Mme Marie-Alphonsine Modes / 73 . Champs Elysees Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114873/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of deep emerald green velvet with stitched, raised front. Rim of twisted velvet. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Danielle / ses chapeaux / Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114875/
Hat
Beret-style hat of chartreuse crocheted straw with navy net snood. Wide chartreuse grosgrain ribbon bow at back. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114838/
Hat
Beret of navy felt with 2 burnt orange grosgrain ribbon trims on back and one in front attached to brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearers head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Agnes / 83 Faubourg St Honore 83 / Angle Avenue Matignon" Label attached to designer's label: "Made in France" Model number tag attached to back of designer's label: "24806" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114853/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of royal blue felt. Wide brimmed with sunken crown. Hatband of matching blue grosgrain ribbon and band of blue feathers partially held in place by a banded slit cut through the crown as trim. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Molyneux / 5. Rue Royale / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114879/
Hat
Alpine style hat in wine felt with green stitching and crease across center of crown. Wide grosgrain ribbon trim around base of crown of same color as top-stitching. Red feather on one side. Designer's label: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale" Tag in hat: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114867/
Hat
Afternoon hat of black velvet with bow of self in back. To be worn over one eye in Eugénie style. Lined in black silk. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside crown: "J. Suzanne Talbot / Modes" Label on inside crown: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114880/
Hat
Hat of navy blue felt in Scottish glengarry style with two blue grosgrain ribbon on crown forming short streamers in back. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "été 1940 / Schiaperelli / 21, Place Vendôme Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114861/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of fur felt in charcoal gray blending to lighter gray at top of crown. Brim turns up in back with folded tab of self as trim. Black leather belt-style hatband with red buckle. Designer label sewn onto inside silk hatband: "Cannes Barritz / Jean Patou / 7, Rue St. Florentin / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114871/
Hat
Hat of cream colored straw. Open crown covered with intertwined, wide yellow and pear green velvet ribbons ending in a bow at the front. Wide, asymmetrical brim, narrowest at back. Retailer's label at inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114899/
Glengarry Hat
Glengarry style cap of Scottish tartan wool plaid in green/black/blue and white stripes. Tricolored cockade trim on right side. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114856/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of rust brown suede. The shoes are designed with a rounded, open toe, and a reddish-brown grosgrain ribbon bow across vamp. The suede upper is pierced with small holes all-over the toebox and sides. The 2 3/8" high heels are of a modified Louis style. Maker's label stamped inside: "Delman / New York * Chicago * London * Paris" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Bergdorf / Goodman" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114895/
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