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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Year: 1956
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Dress
Dress of oyster white linen. The daytime dress is designed as a "Sailor Dress", with a straight silhouette and short sleeves. It has a blue "sailor collar" trimmed with two bands of white linen. The sleeves are likewise edged in a wide blue band with two white linen stripes. There is a red silk faille tie. The street-length skirt has two patch pockets at front. Zipper closure at left side. The dress is unlined, and has inner waistband of oyster grosgrain ribbon with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label sewn inside skirt at left side: "Traina-Norell / New York". The dress has an accompanying narrow navy blue leather belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30055/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
(At Right) Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with bust darts, there is an attached bow of the same fabric just below the bust on the front. Slightly dropped waist, with box pleating from waist down the skirt. At front there are two box pleats that start at bow and continue down the front of the dress. Center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. It has 3/4-length sleeves and no collar. The center-front opening has no closures. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". The Spring/Summer 1956 line was called the Fl├Ęche ("Arrow")Line. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows ensemble as displayed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30071/
Cartwheel Hat
Natural straw cartwheel or picture hat. The wide, slightly floppy, brim slopes up to the low circular domed crown. Around the crown is a black silk scarf attached in three places with black bows, with trailing section off of the back of the brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30000/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of green leather jacket and green and black striped knit dress with green leather belt. The sheath-style street-length dress is of wool jersey with a knitted pattern of horizontal green and black stripes. It has very short sleeves and a wide boat neckline, and is unlined. The dress has an accompanying green leather belt that ends in fringe. The street-length coat is of matching green leather, with long sleeves and tuxedo collar that extends to lower hem. The center-front opening has no closures, and there is a welt pocket at each side seam. The coat is lined in the same fabric the dress is made from, and faces the tuxedo collar and opening. There are no designer labels in the garments, and the coat has retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30009/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat covered with draped silk scarf of black with pink polka dot print. Knotted accent on back states "Balenciaga" on pink border with frayed ends. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30136/
Hat
Mushroom hat of red strawcloth and tucks on four corners. Interior headband covered in same to secure hat to head. Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39146/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of dark brown straw cloth with small visor brim. Brown grosgrain ribbon surrounds brim. Large button of metallic thread attached to crown with 3 matching buttons hanging from grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label attached to inside brim: "Exclusive Millinery / Pfeifers / Little Rock" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39186/
Calotte Hat
Calotte hat of brown velvet. One hatpin with black, avocado shaped head. Brim and top center seam meet to form V-shaped opening. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Balenciaga Hats . Paris" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39200/
Coat Dress
Coat dress of white textured silk; fitted back and loose draped front ending over left bust line with long flange to hem. Designer's Label at inside center back below collar " Printemps - Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on label: "789[(?) last number is illegible]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114749/
Hat
Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277030/
Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283770/
Mushroom Hat
Cocktail mushroom hat of black silk gazar. Over-sized, with flat top and slightly downward turned 6" brim. Pillbox inner crown with black grosgrain inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305385/
Hat
Hat of white organza. High pillbox crown, 4" deep. Bottom edge of crown encircled with 3" wide bias organdy that ties in large bow at center front. Lined in white silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Covered wires at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305396/
Mushroom Hat
Mushroom hat of red/orange baku straw. Uniquely cut crown is square with points at front and back. Four side panels are formed off of sides of square crown. Lined in white gauze material with red/orange grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305425/
Hat
Suit hat of black velour. Rounded 4" deep crown. 2" wide front upward turned brim. 1/2" wider at sides, turning downward at center back. Has large black ostrich feather tassel at center back. Lined in netting with gray grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Comb at center front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305345/