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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Bailey, Jo
Description: Pillbox hat of striped fabric. The low-crowned cylindrical hat is covered in a gray fabric having red, green, black, white, and gold stripes reminiscent of a man's tie. Around the crown the fabric is pleated and draped, giving the effect of a low turban. Lined in a pink satin, with dusty rose pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat of bright, light orange felt hat. The domed crown is wrapped with a "pleated" pale orange silk chiffon band, over which is a second layer of a very light gray/smoke colored net. The orange felt brim curves downwards. The underside of the brim is lined with the orange felt, while the crown is lined with white silk with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1951
Creator: unknown
Description: Pillbox hat of paisley velveteen. The circular, domed hat is made of a velveteen fabric with printed paisley pattern in shades of green, red, brown, purple, cream, etc. At top of hat is a ball of the same materials. The entire hat and ball have added sewn-on colored rhinestones scattered throughout, and small gold beads. Lined in black cloth, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into inner hatband is retailer's label: "Innes / Wichita" Purchased at the Innes store, Wichita, Kansas.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat in the form of a modified turban. The slightly flattened conical crown is flat across the top, with a roll at top and bottom. The lower brim gently undulates, forming lower areas at sides. The whole is covered in gold braid, spirals of black and gold ribbon, various colored rhinestones and blue/green/opalescent beads. The hat is lined in black satin(?), with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Levine, Beth Katz
Description: Pair of metallic leather pumps. Shoes of textured pink or rose metallic hue with silver undertones, edged in black velvet on vamp and around peep-toe. Slingback, fastened by black rhinestone-accented buckles. 3 1/4" spike/stiletto heels covered in the same leather. Each shoe marked inside vamp: "4 1/2 M 4311-SLW / 26080". Stamped on left shoe: "Herbert Levine / Fine Shoes"; Stamped on right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus". Stamped on both "Hand / Lasted".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1955/1983
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of pumps. The open-toed shoes have vamps formed of black leather covered in a rhinestone-covered black fabric "bunched" at center with a circular rhinestone-set black metal button. Silver leather and elastic "spring-o-lators" linings. 3 1/4" black plastic spike heels set with rhinestones. Written inside vamp of each shoe: "6 1/2 [illeg.] / 1616ind / 6486" Stamped on each lining: "Neiman-Marcus" and "Spring-o-lators / Pat Pend"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cartwheel Hat

Cartwheel Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Galanos, James, 1924-
Description: Natural straw cartwheel or picture hat. The wide, slightly floppy, brim slopes up to the low circular domed crown. Around the crown is a black silk scarf attached in three places with black bows, with trailing section off of the back of the brim.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: McCardell, Claire
Description: Monastic Dress of red and black floral printed cotton. The dress is street-length, with natural shoulders, long sleeves and a high scoop neckline. At the waist is a black leather belt which passes through the garment at the sides, allowing the sides of the dress to be loose and flowing. The belt has a snap closure, and is designed to look "tied" at front. Also referred to as a Trapeze dress. Dress has two labels sewn inside at back of collar. Designer's label: "Claire McCardell Clothes / by Townley" and Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Belt has stamped in white on the back: "10 Claire McCardell 608" From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Date: 1953
Creator: unknown
Description: Ensemble. The skirt is of heavy gold felt covered with black floral lace, which has been heavily "beaded" with sequins. Side zipper closure, and two side-seam pockets. Retailer's label inside skirt on side seam: "Neiman-Marcus". With black velvet belt, which is marked on reverse: "16 Charming Belts. 6406", "This / 'Bac-A-Belt' backing / guaranted by / Good Housekeeping" / wash or clean / as garment". The accompanying blouse is of black silk jersey with half length sleeves and gathered detail at scoop neckline. Center back zipper closure that extends full length of the garment. Inner waistband of grosgrain ribbon with hook and eye closure. No labels in blouse.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Date: 1956
Creator: Cashin, Bonnie
Description: Ensemble consisting of green leather jacket and green and black striped knit dress with green leather belt. The sheath-style street-length dress is of wool jersey with a knitted pattern of horizontal green and black stripes. It has very short sleeves and a wide boat neckline, and is unlined. The dress has an accompanying green leather belt that ends in fringe. The street-length coat is of matching green leather, with long sleeves and tuxedo collar that extends to lower hem. The center-front opening has no closures, and there is a welt pocket at each side seam. The coat is lined in the same fabric the dress is made from, and faces the tuxedo collar and opening. There are no designer labels in the garments, and the coat has retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Shoes

Evening Shoes

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Vaccari
Description: Pair of red satin evening shoes. The deep red shoes have pointed toes and 3 1/2" stiletto heels which are lacquered red with tiny white dots and embellished all-over with rhinestones. Marked on sole: "6 / 1/2 / B / 05" and "Made in Italy". Label inside right shoe: "Vaccari / Italy Bologna". Stamped inside left shoe: "Made in Italy for / Neiman Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1950
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. The dress is accompanied by a long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". No labels on scarf.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1950
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening gown of heavily beaded beige silk satin. The bodice of the full-length gown has an empire waist, a wide scoop neckline, and is sleeveless. It has princess seaming, and internal boning at center front of the neckline. The skirt has fullness from the widening of the panels. The skirt and lower part of the bodice are beaded with floral/foliate forms in pinks, browns, yellows, clear and iridescent beads. The upper part of the bodice, in a deep band around neckline, back, and straps, is totally covered in iridescent sequins, beaded flower heads in bronze/brown and clear beads. The bodice is lined and has internal structures to help support and give form to the gown. The skirt is lined with stiff netting, and has an internal attached net crinoline. The gown has a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. There are no labels in the garment.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Pumps

Evening Pumps

Date: 1950/1969
Creator: Tober-Saifer Shoe Manufacturing Company
Description: Pair of slip-on evening pumps. Grey/green leather sole with clear vinyl upper, the upper trimmed at vamp with a 4-row band of rhinestones. Spike- or stiletto-style heels formed of clear Lucite embossed with vertical bands of foliate forms and with metal heel-cap. Blind-stamped into sole at ball of feet: "80 M 6641 / 3218-V678". Right shoe stamped: "Joléne / Hollywood Inspired / Made in U.S.A." The Joléne Hollywood Inspired brand/label was manufactured by the Tober-Saifer Shoe Manufacturing Company of St. Louis.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1952/1957
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Cocktail dress. The bodice of the dress is of sheer black wool, with a Peter Pan style collar and short sleeves which are shirred at the ends. There is a narrow black satin ribbon at waist where the bodice meets the skirt. The skirt is composed of three layers. The innermost layer is of thick black chiffon, the middle layer is thin black chiffon/crepe. The outer layer is of panels of black and white printed hounds tooth/plaid chiffon, the panels arranged vertically and slit from 5" below waistline to hemline. The panels are gathered/pleated into the waistband. At the top of each slit is an applied black satin bow, forming a row of bows around the hip-line of the skirt. Each panel has side borders of black satin ribbon. The dress has a center-back zipper from neckline to below hips, with a single hook-and-eye at top of collar. There is an inner black grosgrain ribbon waistband, with hook-and-eye closure. The bodice is lined in sheer black material. Designer's label inside skirt: "Galanos"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Nightgown and Robe

Ensemble - Nightgown and Robe

Date: 1950/1952
Creator: unknown
Description: Ensemble consisting of a nightgown and robe of cream or pale peach nylon. Full-length robe with short sleeves and limp ruff collar. Opens down center front with hook-and-eye closure at waist and attached belt. Matching full-length nightgown is sleeveless, with wide straps. Nightgown opens at side with hook-and-eye closures and has string belt. Both pieces of the ensemble are fully accordion pleated on all parts. Robe has tag "Vanity Fair Nylon"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1953
Creator: Eller, Hazel
Description: Hat of white straw and navy blue/black embroidery appliques. The domed crown is of finely woven white straw. The narrow brim turns up at the edges, somewhat irregularly, and is edged in dark navy blue/black embroidery appliques that cover upper and lower parts of the brim. The inside of the crown has a dark navy blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made". Accompanied by two short hat-pins, one with a head covered in matching straw, the other with a simulated pearl head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Green-Field, Benjamin B.
Description: Pillbox hat of yellow plastic/vinyl tubing. Top of crown formed of a coil of the tubing bent into a square or diamond shape, encircled by more coiled tubing forming a circle, leaving open areas. The sides of the crown have other open areas, and form slight scallops at lower edge. Extending through the tubing from upper edge of crown is black net veiling, with small pieces of the yellow tubing worked into some of the intersections of the veiling. Interior of crown lined with yellow mesh, cut away at openings, and edged with a thin strip of beige/yellow velvet. Two small plastic combs are attached at either side to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's Label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"; a second hand-written label sewn in: "510" Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1952
Creator: Green-Field, Benjamin B.
Description: Pillbox hat of knit material with embroidery and mirrors. The black fabric of the hat is covered with yellow embroidered star shapes and small circular mirrors ca. 1.5 cm. in diameter bordered by red thread embroidery/crochet. Cylindrical crown formed as slightly "crushed", folding in in some areas and bulging out in others, and with gently scalloped lower edge. Top is generally flat, with an applied tear-drop shaped section of the same material, with trailing "ribbons" of same material extending off of back of hat. The edge of the applied panel and the lower edge of the crown are edged with alternating red and black beads, with two strands and two loops of the same beading descending from the between the "ribbons" at top. The inside of the crown is lined in red mesh and edged with red grosgrain ribbon. There are two plastic combs, one at either side, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of straw and velvet. The short, cylindrical crown is of woven natural-colored straw, with off-center "peak". The crown is edged along top with a narrow band of orange velvet. The sides of the crown are covered in black velvet, and there is an inner band of black velvet-covered straw that extends below the sides of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. On the band, a small sewn start designates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made", and with a (later?) price tag attached. Accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered with woven straw matching the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of navy blue straw. The turban-like hat is composed of a bulbus crown of woven navy blue straw which is edged in grosgrain ribbon. For one-half of the distance around the hat, the ribbon is dark navy blue, for the other half it is red. The two ends cross over in the front, with ends extending upwards on the front of the hat. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1952
Creator: Green-Field, Benjamin B.
Description: Hatlet of navy blue wool with embroidery and mirrors. Base of hatlet formed of an irregularly-shaped skullcap of dark navy blue wool decorated with embroidered lines, bands, etc. in red, yellow, and white. Over the surface of the fabric are small 1.5 cm. diameter mirrors in pink and red stitched borders. All edges are trimmed in gray/purple beads. Surmounting the hatlet are three bows of the same materials, and the whole is overlaid with fine dark blue veiling. Hatlet is lined in dark blue mesh and edged underneath with dark blue grosgrain ribbon. Attached to either side is a small plastic comb to secure the hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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