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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Dress
Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30076/
Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30073/
Dress
Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. The dress is accompanied by a long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". No labels on scarf. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30225/
Ensemble - Dress and Bolero Jacket
Ensemble. The dress is of ivory wool, full-length, and sleeveless with a scoop-neck. Slightly A-line, with a slit at left side from hem up 18". Neckline is lower in back than front, and there is a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label in dress at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York". The accompanying bolero jacket is of red-orange with long sleeves. The cuffs, mandarin collar, hem, and center-front opening are edged with a wide band of off-white fur (fox or mink?). The jacket is decorated with closely-sewn rhinestones. The jacket is fully lined in cream fabric, and has a single hook-and-eye closure near throat. The jacket has no labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30222/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of heavily beaded beige silk satin. The bodice of the full-length gown has an empire waist, a wide scoop neckline, and is sleeveless. It has princess seaming, and internal boning at center front of the neckline. The skirt has fullness from the widening of the panels. The skirt and lower part of the bodice are beaded with floral/foliate forms in pinks, browns, yellows, clear and iridescent beads. The upper part of the bodice, in a deep band around neckline, back, and straps, is totally covered in iridescent sequins, beaded flower heads in bronze/brown and clear beads. The bodice is lined and has internal structures to help support and give form to the gown. The skirt is lined with stiff netting, and has an internal attached net crinoline. The gown has a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30227/
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. The accompanying straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". This garment reflects Adrian's celebration of the lifting of wartime restrictions on types and quantities of materials and trimmings that could be used in making clothes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30229/
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble of gold and silver Lurex knit consisting of blouse and skirt. Long sleeved blouse with round neckline and ties at wrists. Trimmed at lower hem with wide black ribbon which ties at side. Matching full-length skirt. On both pieces the knitting is done to simulate the effect of fine pleating. Each piece has designer label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30223/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of ivory satin and black lace. Garment is a full-length, A-line ivory satin dress with 3 wide horizontal bands of applied black lace on skirt and an attached black lace empire-style over-bodice. The bodice, consisting of overlapping lace scallops, has a deep square neckline and full-length sleeves. There are two covered snap closures on each wrist and a series of paired covered snap closures down center back. The dress has a center-back zipper with a single hook-and-eye fastener at the neckline. The ivory silk inner bodice has internal steel(?) boning for shaping, and fastens with a center-back zipper and internal grosgrain band waist stay. Inside the gown is a full-length, attached ivory satin slip with horsehair hem. The dress is piece-lined in ivory organza with a horsehair hem. Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "4677S". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30258/
Ballgown
Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red satin. The jacket is lined in olive green satin, which shows the quilting, and has built-in shoulder pads. There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30259/
Coat
Coat of black wool and chinchilla fur. The full-length black wool coat is tailored to fit at waist and flares out at skirt. Long sleeves, and center front opening with 8 circular buttons covered with same black cloth, and 3 hook-and-loops spaced along the opening. The coat has a Peter Pan collar of brown and taupe striped fur identified as chinchilla. From the hips down to the hem is trimmed with matching fur, arranged so the stripes run horizontally around the skirt of the coat. The coat is fully lined in black cloth. Single retailer's label at inside back of collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30101/
Dress
Dress of polychrome cotton print. The floor-length dress is of cotton fabric with a raised "zig-zag" texture, in the style of cotton piqué weaving. It is printed with a series of horizontal bands in geometric designs in blues, reds, greens, tan/brown, orange, and purple. The sleeveless dress has a shallow boat neckline in front and deep squared-off neckline at back. The fitted bodice section ends at the natural waist, into which the long skirt is slightly gathered. The front of the skirt has two patch pockets of the same material, with the print matched to disguise the pockets. One of the lower bands of the skirt is embellished with applied non-functional circular gold-colored "buttons". The hem of the dress has a 7 cm. wide band horizontal band of red wool trim, from which hangs red wool fringe. The center back zipper closure has a single hook-and-eye at top. The dress is lined in red fabric. The dress has two labels sewn inside. At left side at seam is designer's label "Lanvin / Paris New York"; at right side near zipper is size label "6". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30013/
Pumps
Pair of green suede pumps. Vamp of shoe with 5 bands of green satin ribbon running across the vamp and throat. The throat has V-cut sections on either side, with crossing bands of suede where the V intersects the ribbon. Lined in cream/grey kid leather. 2 1/2" high modified continental heels, covered in green suede. Stamped inside right shoe: " 'Charmant' / Fashions / A. Harris & Co. Dallas". Noted inside both shoes: "38 - 0 14465" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30091/
Dinner Gown
Dinner gown of red velvet. The full-length dress is of deep red velvet, embroidered in black to form an all-over pattern of "fish scales". Neckline is rounded, higher in front than back, and has full-length sleeves with a modified leg-of-mutton effect at the shoulders and zipper closures at wrists. The bodice is seamed, and has a natural waistline. The neckline, waistline, and upper part of sleeves/shoulders are edged in black cording/braid. Skirt is slightly gathered into the waistline braid. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye closure at neck. Small panel lining front of bodice at bust, the rest of the gown unlined. No label sewn in garment, but retains original paper tag: obverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original"; reverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original / Fibre Content / 100% Wool / Style 121 / Size [blank] / Mat. [blank] / Account No. [blank]". This gown is one of the "Dance Hall Girl" dresses from Ms. Maxwell's Southwest American Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30090/
Suit
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30093/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of white cotton broadcloth. The hat has a square-shaped brim with an outer layer of off-white weave material with a plain-weave backing, and crocheted trim. The brim is thin and does not appear to contain much stiffening material or starch. The crenelated crown fastens to brim by a series of 9 buttons on top and 2 buttons on each side. The crown is trimmed with the same crocheted trim as is the brim. The crown and tail are of a made of a single length of fabric. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30065/
Evening Pumps
Pair of slip-on evening pumps. Grey/green leather sole with clear vinyl upper, the upper trimmed at vamp with a 4-row band of rhinestones. Spike- or stiletto-style heels formed of clear Lucite embossed with vertical bands of foliate forms and with metal heel-cap. Blind-stamped into sole at ball of feet: "80 M 6641 / 3218-V678". Right shoe stamped: "Joléne / Hollywood Inspired / Made in U.S.A." The Joléne Hollywood Inspired brand/label was manufactured by the Tober-Saifer Shoe Manufacturing Company of St. Louis. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30061/
Cloche
Cloche-type hat of blue-green velvet. An early example of the cloche hat, it has a narrow up-turned brim. All around the crown is floral decoration carried out in beading, applique, and embroidery. Also with thin lines of gold thread sewn throughout. The edges of the brim are similarly decorated. Remains of silk lining. Original cataloging indicates the had had a Sanger Bros., Dallas, price tag inside marked $35, on sale for $30. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30068/
Ensemble - Nightgown and Robe
Ensemble consisting of a nightgown and robe of cream or pale peach nylon. Full-length robe with short sleeves and limp ruff collar. Opens down center front with hook-and-eye closure at waist and attached belt. Matching full-length nightgown is sleeveless, with wide straps. Nightgown opens at side with hook-and-eye closures and has string belt. Both pieces of the ensemble are fully accordion pleated on all parts. Robe has tag "Vanity Fair Nylon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30066/
Reticule
Reticule. Drawstring handbag/purse of black knit with openwork band along top through which drawstring is threaded. Running around center of bag are three horizontal bands of blue beads bordered by silver/gold lined beads. Lower part of the bag is completely covered by horizontal bands of silver/gold lined beads and blue beads. Bottom of bag with large sphere covered with blue beads from which hangs tassel of silver/gold lined bead loops. Unlined. Has been dated 1880-1890 or ca. 1916. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30063/
Cartwheel Hat
Black cartwheel hat. The low, domed crown and wide circular brim are made of black woven horsehair and stiff veiling, with wire to stiffen the edges. The brim is overlaid with a wider second brim of net and wire. Brim is "off-center", wider at front of hat than back. Around base of crown is a band of black cording, tied into a bow at back and with trailing ends. The inside base of the crown is lined with black grosgrain ribbon. One pin with black head is with hat to secure it. Label sewn into inner band: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." A second label with handwritten number "1655" is sewn in near designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30042/
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular silver art deco openwork frame set with tiny marcasites and circular cabochon black stones (onyx?). Bag is of black silk velvet. Handle of black silk velvet with two silver rings set with marcasites. Lined with dusty pink ribbed silk, and containing a small rectangular mirror. Marked on frame: "MD" in a square; Diamond shaped mark with an M over a K; and an illegible shield-shaped punch. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30047/
Suit
Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels. There are three labels in the coat: Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co." Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas" Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30048/
Hat
Raised beret-style hat of creme felt. Stiffened body of hat has a sienna/orange-brown grosgrain ribbon bow at top of crown, with tails of bow extending to sides, along front to edge, and trailing off of the back of the hat. The hat is surmounted by a light-brown plume of ostrich feathers. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. There is a thin black elastic strap to go around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn to inside band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30043/
Coat
Coat of brown and white felted wool. The garment is knee-length or longer, with long sleeves and a center front opening with 5 large circular plastic buttons. The main body of the coat is of pale brown and white check design, with cuffs, collar, and lower band of coat (about hips to hem) of solid light brown. The coat is lined in pale brown fabric, and has an accompanying light brown and white check belt. Designer's label at inside at center back of neckline: "Norell". A second sew-in handwritten label just above reads "Deborah 929" A hand-written note with the garment states that it is from "the last collection" The coat is part of an ensemble which includes an off-white wool jersey blouse, a brown wool skirt, and a brown leather belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30100/
Hat
Hat of camel-colored cashmere felt. The crown is roughly cone-shaped, swelling at center and flattened at an angle at the top. Near the bottom of the crown is a band of black grosgrain ribbon, below which the hat swells out to become the asymmetrical brim. At center back is black grosgrain ribbon bow, to which is attached trailing golden tan/brown ostrich plumes. Inside crown is hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn onto the inner ribbon is designer's label: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30104/
Turban
Turban of light brown velvet and burnt sienna / orange brown satin. Affixed to front is a large artificial flower in shades of pinks and pale greens, enhanced with maroon feathers. Lined in pale brown netting. Around inside of brim is band of light brown grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn onto ribbon: "An Original By / Henry's Hats". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30103/
Hat
Hat of wine-red velvet. When seen from above, the low crown is shaped as a quatrefoil, with four projecting, down-turned lobes. The sides of crown and the lobes have black braid appliques of scrolling forms. Inside of the crown is lined in black fabric and has a coral/faded pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. On either side are stiff black-covered wire loops to help secure hat to wearer's head. Sewn to inner ribbon band is label: Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30125/
Calotte
Calotte. The hat has a conical crown of stiffened green net overlaid with green straw woven/plaited loops and with attached artificial cherries and leaves. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a thin green velvet trim along base of crown. Label sewn into inner edge of crown: "Styled by / Coralie", with "Finlan" written on edge of label. Behind the Coralie label is a Union label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30127/
Picture Hat
Picture hat. The hat is of natural woven Milan straw, forming a wide shaped brim that curves downwards to the edges. Brim is rounded in front, flaring out slightly to back and forming two projecting lobes at back. Around brim is a band of woven straw for strength. Very low cylindrical crown, slightly domed. Around crown is twisted gold velvet band forming bow with trailing ribbons at back. Inside base of crown is off-white grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn into inner ribbon band is label: "John Frederics Inc. / New York", "Made In America". Label has three rhinestones sewn to it, and has two small green ribbon bows at opposing corners. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30124/
Suit
Two-piece suit of dark orange knit. The ensemble includes a jacket, double-breasted, with princess seaming and a large cape collar. The full-length straight sleeves each have three circular black buttons and bound button-holes. The opening at front has two vertical rows of 4 black circular buttons, and a hidden snap closure at upper right. Attached to the jacket are four black patent leather belt carriers to support the accompanying thin black patent leather belt. Fully lined in black fabric. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Norell". The matching skirt is short, with a 2" wide waistband into which the skirt gathers. Two slit pockets at side seams, one of which conceals zipper closure and line of snaps and hooks-and-eyes. Skirt is fully lined in orange fabric. No designer's label in skirt, but a single care label ("Do Not Use / Steam Iron") sewn below waistband at inside front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30129/
Hat
Hat in the form of a modified turban. The slightly flattened conical crown is flat across the top, with a roll at top and bottom. The lower brim gently undulates, forming lower areas at sides. The whole is covered in gold braid, spirals of black and gold ribbon, various colored rhinestones and blue/green/opalescent beads. The hat is lined in black satin(?), with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30272/
Evening Gown
Evening dress of black velvet and fuchsia satin. The dress has an empire-length bodice of black velvet, with a scoop neckline and long fitted sleeves which have hidden zipper closures. The Empire waistline is accented with a horizontal band of fuchsia satin with bow at center front. Extending down from the waistband is the full fuchsia satin skirt. The full-length skirt has vertical inverted pleats edged with bands of black velvet that extend from the waistband to just below the hips. At center back is a zipper closure. The bodice is lined in black silk, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner waistband which secures with hook-and-eyes. The skirt has an inner slip lining of fuchsia fabric with a wide fuchsia satin hem matching the skirt. Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "5638 F-92". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30270/
Wedding Dress
Wedding ensemble. The dress is of creme satin styled as a sleeveless A-line dress, with wide shoulder straps. The neckline of the bodice is embellished with rows of satin cording forming a cross-over design. The skirt has a high waistline, and is formed of a lattice of groups of four vertical and four horizontal rows of satin cording, with a backing of creme gauze. Label sewn into inside back of dress: "Victor Costa / Bridal" With veil of silk tulle with satin binding, not shown in photograph. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30279/
Evening Shoes
Pair of red satin evening shoes. The deep red shoes have pointed toes and 3 1/2" stiletto heels which are lacquered red with tiny white dots and embellished all-over with rhinestones. Marked on sole: "6 / 1/2 / B / 05" and "Made in Italy". Label inside right shoe: "Vaccari / Italy Bologna". Stamped inside left shoe: "Made in Italy for / Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30215/
Evening Gown
Evening dress of off-white / beige silk. Mid-length chemise-style, with 1" standing collar and long sleeves. Heavily beaded floral patterns at cuffs of sleeves and along a band 3 1/2" up from hem. Beadwork includes pearls, clear bugle beads, rhinestones, gold sequins, and small clear beads. Zipper closure along center back. Dress is lined in white silk crepe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30212/
Hat
Hat of bright, light orange felt hat. The domed crown is wrapped with a "pleated" pale orange silk chiffon band, over which is a second layer of a very light gray/smoke colored net. The orange felt brim curves downwards. The underside of the brim is lined with the orange felt, while the crown is lined with white silk with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30217/
Dress
Dress of off-white / ivory wool knit. The form-fitting full-length sheath has a round neckline and short cap sleeves. The entire dress is covered with iridescent sequins, and is decorated at lower part with five bands of gold/copper sequins, 3 bands of rosettes composted of gold beads and pearls, and two bands of "garlands" with suspended pine-cone forms and diamond shapes of copper/gold sequins, gold bugle beads, and gold beads. Dress has zipper closure along center back. Label reads: "Gene Shelly's / Boutique Internationale / California / Hand Decorated in Hong Kong / 100% Wool" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30210/
Pumps
Pair of pumps. The open-toed shoes have vamps formed of black leather covered in a rhinestone-covered black fabric "bunched" at center with a circular rhinestone-set black metal button. Silver leather and elastic "spring-o-lators" linings. 3 1/4" black plastic spike heels set with rhinestones. Written inside vamp of each shoe: "6 1/2 [illeg.] / 1616ind / 6486" Stamped on each lining: "Neiman-Marcus" and "Spring-o-lators / Pat Pend" The spring-o-lator was invented by Beth Levine in the 1950's. The elastic created tension which kept backless heeled shoes on the feet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30214/
Pumps
Pair of white leather pumps. Shoes have rounded open toes and sections of clear vinyl or plastic at vamp on either side. Accented with rectangular buckles at vamps painted white and set with large and small rhinestones. Back straps fasten with rectangular white-painted metal buckles. 3" spike heel covered in white leather. Written in each shoe: "6 1/2 B" on vamp; "6 1/2 B 6333 / 7214-6RF" on back strap. Stamped on lining of left shoe: "M. Wolf / New York". Stamped on lining of right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30213/
Dress
Dress of off-white silk. Ankle-length dress with V neckline at front and back with piped edge and with long, lightly puffed sleeves supported by small pads. Hem and sleeves with fine rolled hems. At front is a wide, dropped, cross-over band at waist which repeats at back, the back forming a yoke into which the skirt gathers. Lapped zipper closure on left side. The entire garment has pleating inspired by the designs of Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo,(May 11, 1871–May 3, 1949) Acquired by the donor at the Fort Worth, Texas, branch of Neiman Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30311/
Dress
Dress of navy blue silk chiffon. The full-length dress is sleeveless, with narrow straps extending across shoulders and meeting at center of the 2 1/2" wide A-line band at neckline. The straps and neckline band are covered with faux jewels. From the band drops the long A-line skirt of finely-pleated silk chiffon, which conceals a narrow sheath dress underneath. This dress is similar in style to one produced for Halley's 1967 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30317/
Hat
Hat of brown and coral pink felted rabbit fur. The high cylindrical crown has alternating horizontal stripes of brown and coral pink rabbit fur, with thin bands of gold lamé cording between the bands. The low, sloping, narrow brim is of brown fur with a visible lining of pink fur. Tied around the base of the crown is a double-strand of the gold lamé cording, knotted at side with hanging ends. The hat has an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband, and is lined in grey felt. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Ian / D" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30310/
Dress
Dress of printed silk with beads and sequins. Short dress of black silk is printed with a paisley design in yellow, red, and cream. The background is covered in heavy black beading and black sequins. The dress has a short standing collar and long set-in sleeves. There is a center back zipper from collar to hips. Fully lined in black fabric. Label of Dallas retailer inside back near collar on left side: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30316/
Kipper Tie
Wide kipper tie of large stylized paisley designs in yellows and gold on a blue field. Blue is somewhat faded from the original shade. The tie has a tag on reverse marked "Brent" and with the logo for Montgomery Ward. The creation of the kipper tie, a form of extra-wide necktie known for bright colors and patterns, is credited to British designer Michael Fish. He brought out the earliest ones in the 1960's. This example was a gift to the donor by his maternal grandmother, Mary Kathleen King Miller (1898-1969). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30325/
Boots
Pair of brown suede boots. Almost knee-high, the boots are constructed as slip-on rounded-toe shoes or moccasins with added segments on the quarter to create the length of the boots. At the top, the suede of the boots is folded over outwards forming a pocket for a drawstring around top and a band of suede fringe around the outside of the boot. Indistinct trademark/logo stamped on sole. Illegible stamped mark inside boots. Referred to as "Squaw Boots", these were worn by the donor who acquired them in 1968 from the Fishing Bridge Store, in Yellowstone National Park. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30322/
Coat
Evening coat of brocade and fur. The full-length coat is of a pale yellow silk brocade, with a pattern of flowers and scrolls in reds, purples, blues, white, silver, and gold. It has long sleeves and opens along the center front, with no closures. The cuffs and collar are wide bands of dyed purple fox fur. The coat is lined in a pale tan/yellow silk. Sewn in below collar at inside center back is designer's label: "Designed / by Mouratidis / Washington DC" Attached inside right side near hip is original paper label printed on one side "Balenciaga / Paris", and written on the back "Brocade evening mystery / coat w/fox / R". Donated to the Texas Fashion Collection by Helen Noumas, in memory of her partner Michael Mouratidis, designer of the piece. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30321/
Jeans
Pair of commercially produced Wrangler denim jeans that were found in the southern Rocky mountains across from Red River, New Mexico in the late 1960's. The pants had been bleached in irregular patterns by the sun, and had various worn and torn places. After discovery, the Wranglers were embellished with red velour fabric pieces to cover some of the worst structural damage, and with a commercially available embroidered butterfly patch added below waistband at center back. Labels: Evidence of rectangular tag having been sewn on right-side back pocket. Both back pockets have "W" stitching; Fly button engraved "Wrangler"; Tag sewn inside fly: "Wrangler / 30 x 34 / Sanforized / Made in U.S.A."; Zipper pull stamped "Gripper Zipper" and "Pat Pending"; Marked on left front pocket, inside pants: "GDW" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30327/
Jeans
Pair of jeans. Commercially manufactured Levi Strauss & Co. denim blue jeans which have been bleached to white, then disassembled and reassembled with embellishments of multi-color crewel embroidered fabric and glass beads. Jeans have two front pockets and two back pockets, front zipper fly and button at waistband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30328/
Shirt
Homemade, long-sleeved shirt of gold brocade, with straight button front, in the popular Elvis Presley or Renaissance style of the late 1960's. Multiple ballooned areas on the sleeves. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30324/
Vest
Vest of blue, red and white suede. The blue body of the vest has star-shaped cut-outs, revealing the white lining. From the body of the vest hangs floor-length red fringe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30329/