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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Date: 1953
Creator: unknown
Description: Ensemble. The skirt is of heavy gold felt covered with black floral lace, which has been heavily "beaded" with sequins. Side zipper closure, and two side-seam pockets. Retailer's label inside skirt on side seam: "Neiman-Marcus". With black velvet belt, which is marked on reverse: "16 Charming Belts. 6406", "This / 'Bac-A-Belt' backing / guaranted by / Good Housekeeping" / wash or clean / as garment". The accompanying blouse is of black silk jersey with half length sleeves and gathered detail at scoop neckline. Center back zipper closure that extends full length of the garment. Inner waistband of grosgrain ribbon with hook and eye closure. No labels in blouse.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Ensemble of navy ribbed silk. A) Blouse in New Look style with V-shaped neckline and 1" collar. Elbow length sleeves with 1" folded cuffs. Center front opening with hook & eye closure. Patch pockets at side hips. Unlined; petersham of black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye. Designer's label at left side seam: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior-New York Inc." B) Skirt of matching silk. Street length, A lined with pleats at 1" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Camisole

Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Camisole

Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Ensemble of navy-blue and slightly lighter silk organza composed of vertical hand-faggoted bands of alternating shades of blue giving light and dark effect. A) Blouse. Waist length with extending peplum to tuck under skirt. V-neckline, with collar of flat reveres with faggoted border. Short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons, a snap at the natural waistline, and 1 hook and loop and 5 hooks and eyes on peplum. The stripes and peplum are lined in pale gray organza, leaving the faggotted seams unlined. Underarm gussetts, with built-in pads. No labels. B) Skirt. Street length, full skirt matching bodice, with alternating vertical stripes, narrow navy blue waistband with center front opening with 5 self-covered buttons, and one hook and eye and two hook and loops on waistband, and a large snap which matches to bodice. Lined as blouse, with cream organza lining the stripes, but the faggotted bands left open, and with an inner skirt attached at waist of same cream silk organza, and with inner petticoat with flounce of cream tulle which has separate closure with 9 hook-and-eyes. No labels. Handwritten note on waistband "RH650 2P(?)" C) Inner shell camisole/lining for blouse of cream silk. ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Coat and Dress

Ensemble - Coat and Dress

Date: 1957
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Street ensemble consisting of a navy blue wool coat and a dress. A) Coat of navy whipcord wool. Single breasted with 6 circular black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves. Street length. Peter Pan collar of black sheepskin. High rise waistline. Lined in black silk. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Dress with black crepe back satin bodice and navy whipcord wool straight cut skirt. Long, narrow cut, set-in sleeves with zippered cuffs. Wide jewel neckline. Street length. Empire waist with slight gathering and 1/2" band at base of bodice. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Petersham at waistline of 3/4" black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye closure. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Coat Dress and Skirt

Ensemble - Coat Dress and Skirt

Date: 1958
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Ensemble consisting of a charcoal gray wool tweed coat dress and skirt. A) Street dress of charcoal gray wool tweed. Center front opening with eight large, circular, black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Three quarter raglan sleeves. Turndown collar. Yoked shoulders slightly gathered in back. Below knee length. Lined in black silk faille. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt with waist panel of black silk and lower panel of charcoal gray wool tweed. Skirt is slightly gathered where waist panel meets lower panel. Overall effect is of a straight skirt. Center back opening with two hook & eyes on waistband as closure. Lower portion of skirt is lined in same black silk as waist panel. Retailer's label on inside center back seam of lining: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: (At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Date: 1959
Creator: Mingolini Gugenheim
Description: Ensemble. A) Brown sheath dress of lace with floral motif, heavily hand beaded with tiny brown beads. Mid-length, scooped neckline, deeper in back. Sleeveless, with narrow straps. Slightly shaped hem. Inner brown satin lining sheath. Design house's label inside: "Mingolini Gugenheim / Piazza di Spagna 9-91- Roma" B) Brown sheer organza coat, mid-length, shawl collar, center front opening fastened by belt. mid-length sleeves. Leather belt built into waistline, covered with organza, the hook buckles covered in brown beading as dress.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Date: 1956
Creator: Cashin, Bonnie
Description: Ensemble consisting of green leather jacket and green and black striped knit dress with green leather belt. The sheath-style street-length dress is of wool jersey with a knitted pattern of horizontal green and black stripes. It has very short sleeves and a wide boat neckline, and is unlined. The dress has an accompanying green leather belt that ends in fringe. The street-length coat is of matching green leather, with long sleeves and tuxedo collar that extends to lower hem. The center-front opening has no closures, and there is a welt pocket at each side seam. The coat is lined in the same fabric the dress is made from, and faces the tuxedo collar and opening. There are no designer labels in the garments, and the coat has retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: Saint Laurent, Yves
Description: Ensemble of a dark grey wool mohair consisting of: A) Jacket in boxed style. Single breasted with three large, circular, horn buttons and bound buttonholes; notched collar. Bracelet length, set-in sleeves. Lined in dark gray silk. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Made in France / Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris " and stamped on label: "10118" B) Dress. Sleeveless, with shallow, wide rounded neckline. Natural waist with an A-line over skirt and with under skirt of dark gray silk and 7" hemline of matching wool creating a tiered or multi-layer look. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in dark gray silk and bodice lined in black organza with black grosgrain ribbon petersham and black silk noil support structure.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Date: 1958/1959
Creator: Parnis, Mollie
Description: Short cocktail or informal dinner ensemble of green silk brocade with woven design in tiny gray/blue floral pattern. The fitted short jacket has a natural waistline slightly gathered at front, princess seams front and back, and cap sleeves. V-back, with open throat neck-line. Round collar trimmed with brown mink fur. 3/4 length dolman sleeves, 5 self-covered buttons at center front. Green faille lining. No labels in jacket. The dress of the same fabric is mid-calf length, and has a square neckline with small V cut in front and tucks at corners of square, back neckline V that matches front V. Short cap sleeves with underarm rectangular gusset. Three small pleats at left and right of natural waistline. Center back zipper with hook and eye closure. Lined as jacket. Retailer's label at left inside seam inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus" Retailer's label that acts as "modesty weight" at center front inside of neckline, 4 inches long: "Neiman Marcus" The dress has a belt covered in same fabric, lined with leather.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket, Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Hat

Ensemble - Jacket, Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Hat

Date: 1958
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Ensemble consisting of: A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom. Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos" B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net. Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos" C) A-line skirt, ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Nightgown and Robe

Ensemble - Nightgown and Robe

Date: 1950/1952
Creator: unknown
Description: Ensemble consisting of a nightgown and robe of cream or pale peach nylon. Full-length robe with short sleeves and limp ruff collar. Opens down center front with hook-and-eye closure at waist and attached belt. Matching full-length nightgown is sleeveless, with wide straps. Nightgown opens at side with hook-and-eye closures and has string belt. Both pieces of the ensemble are fully accordion pleated on all parts. Robe has tag "Vanity Fair Nylon"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Sun Dress and Bolero/Jacket

Ensemble - Sun Dress and Bolero/Jacket

Date: 1952
Creator: Simpson, Adele
Description: Daytime ensemble of khaki green cotton twill consisting of: A) Sun dress. Street-length, sleeveless, with deep rounded neckline. Skirt gathered into natural waist with attached narrow tie belt and bow of matching fabric. Center back zipper with hook & eye at back neckline and inner petersham of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at left side seam: "Adele Simpson" B) Cropped, bolero or shrug jacket of matching fabric. Embellished all-over with silver stitching "loops", the center of each loop having a circular paillette of reflective silver material. Single snap closure and single hook &loop at base of center front opening which crosses to fasten. Short sleeves. Deep V neckline in front. Lined in cream net. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Adele Simpson"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Evening dress of black and white satin. Long torso fitted top. Sleeveless, with wide boat neck of black satin. Zipper down the back. Full harem skirt of black, white, and grey striped and dotted silk with one large black satin bow at hip line and another bow of same at the hem of the short, "balloon" style skirt. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris" and "Made in France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1953
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Evening dress of white silk jersey. Floor length; long dolman sleeves. Deep V neckline. Set-in waistline gathered at sides. Skirt gathers below set-in waistline. Left side zipper with two snaps; petersham at interior of waist. Hip drapery with wide sewn in "belt", pleated at ends and closed with 4 hook & eyes. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label on inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1950/1956
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Evening dress of pale champagne silk chiffon crepe; fitted bodice of silk chiffon with silk satin ribbon trim, and vertical stripes which go down to hem of skirt. Silk satin ribbon forms a V from center-front bodice and wraps over shoulders to back of dress. Ribbon bow at center back falls to middle of skirt and hides a zipper and hook&eye closure. Bodice has interior support with boning and petersham. Mid-length skirt has many layers of chiffon creating a full appearance; skirt is lined in matching silk. Designer's label at left side seam: "Galanos" Retailer's label on lining at bottom of back skirt seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Evening dress of black silk taffeta. Street length; short sleeves. Scooped neckline with attached, pleated capelet/stole which secures to dress with snaps and white, 4-1/2" wide grosgrain ribbon bow at left. Bow buttons onto capelet/stole with small button covered in matching black taffeta. Straight skirt from natural waistline. Center back zipper with hook & loop. Lined in black organdy(?) with black grosgrain petersham. Designer's label on center back seam: "Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label on center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying belt, covered in matching black taffeta. Square buckle; 32" x 1-1/4".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Ensemble

Evening Ensemble

Date: 1958
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Evening ensemble consisting of gold brocade evening gown trimmed in white mink with matching coat and detachable train. A) Evening coat of gold brocade. Ballerina length with short, dolman sleeves. Banded neckline. Center front opening is cutaway in front below waist and tapers to hem. Lined in gold metallic organdy. B) Evening dress of gold brocade with white mink fur trim at the neckline and hips. Full length with princess seaming and slight A-line to skirt. Scooped back. Fur trim around neckline and back goes over shoulders to form straps of dress. Center back zipper. Belt of fur at hips closes in back the 3 covered hook & eyes. Skirt lined in white tulle. Bodice is boned and lined in white netting and closes in back with hook & eyes. Designer's Label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" Model label behind designer's label: "74184" C) Detachable train of gold brocade. Train is rectangular in shape and gathers into smocking where it attaches to back of dress with snaps and hook & eyes. Floor length. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1950
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening gown of heavily beaded beige silk satin. The bodice of the full-length gown has an empire waist, a wide scoop neckline, and is sleeveless. It has princess seaming, and internal boning at center front of the neckline. The skirt has fullness from the widening of the panels. The skirt and lower part of the bodice are beaded with floral/foliate forms in pinks, browns, yellows, clear and iridescent beads. The upper part of the bodice, in a deep band around neckline, back, and straps, is totally covered in iridescent sequins, beaded flower heads in bronze/brown and clear beads. The bodice is lined and has internal structures to help support and give form to the gown. The skirt is lined with stiff netting, and has an internal attached net crinoline. The gown has a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. There are no labels in the garment.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1950/1955
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Evening gown of tobacco brown floral embroidered tulle embellished with sequins. Tulip or "mermaid" style full-length gown has spaghetti straps trimmed in single row of sequins and structured bodice. Empire waist. Center back zipper. Silk lining/attached slip. Cream grosgrain ribbon petersham at empire waist with two hook & eye closures. Stiffened at hem with matching tulle netting and horizontal bands of horsehair. Single label in gown with retailer and designer: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell", with "Dallas" in lower case.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1950/1954
Creator: Fath, Jacques
Description: Evening gown of black satin. Full length; skirt flares slightly. Fitted bodice with low neckline and 1" shoulder straps. Off-center front closure with six satin covered buttons reinforced with two snaps at the neckline and a hook & eye at the center of the opening; bound buttonholes. . Petersham of black, 1" grosgrain ribbon; unlined. Combined designer/manufacturer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Designed in America by / Jacques Fath / for Joseph Halpert / Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown and Stole

Evening Gown and Stole

Date: 1950
Creator: Fath, Jacques
Description: Evening gown and stole of silk satin; 2 sided fabric. Gown of deep red silk satin; sleeveless; sheath; large bow draped over right shoulder; fitted skirt; flounce from side seam creates half-circle; 2 self covered button accents; inner hem has horsehair braid and netting for structure; With stole of silk satin; deep red and dark blue; floor length; connected to make slight armholes.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Hat

Evening Hat

Date: 1955/1965
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Evening hat of black silk satin and black ostrich feathers. hat is formed as a black satin domed crown totally covered with black ostrich feathers, forming a cloud around the wearer's head. At front, and running below feathers around head, is wide band of black silk satin, with a bow at front center. Hat is lined in black silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design