Afternoon dress ensemble of navy jacquard with green and cream floral print. Consists of: A) Bodice with lace embelishments as if yoke but beneath faux vest of chartreuse green; geometric pleating in front; black velvet and chartreuse accent at collar; hook and eye closures at center front; remnants of ruffled trim on cuffs. B) Skirt; pleating in center; navy ruffle trim
Daytime ensemble of white cotton batiste with black dots. A) Bodice with lace yoke. Center front has three vertical rows of lace separated by two inserts of matching fabric with pin tucks. Small bishop sleeves, 3/4 length. Center back closure of seven hook & eyes. Unlined. B) Skirt. Full length with bustle-back, slightly trained back. Formed with two tiers of inserted lace and shirring; bottom tier has pin tucks and extra row of matching inserted lace along hem. Narrow waistband with hook & eye closure; shirring at sides and around back. Unlined.
Bed jacket of black openwork. Hip length-jacket is formed of vertical panels of black braid open work net overlaid/appliquéd with black braid in scrolls and arabesques, the whole is lined/backed with black silk. The panels are constructed to create princess seamed segments for shape/fit. Elbow-length sleeves, V-neckline at front with two hook & eye closures on center front. Neckline and upper part of opening trimmed with off-white eyelet lace ruffle. Two black braided circular button-like applied elements at center front, one at either side of opening.
Combinations(?) of black silk taffeta with double net flounce at bottom. Camisole top attached at natural waist, small cap sleeves. Opens down the front with covered buttons, some non-functional and covering hook-and-eyes. Size 16
Corset covered in black silk, constructed of 6 pieces. Front has 5 clasps, marked "FC Co." Each side has 41 bones of various widths and lengths. The back is laced with 13 eyelets with (now) brown laces. The bottom is finished with a straight silk binding, and the top is finished with a machine made eyelet edging. Most bones have decorative stitching at the top and bottom. Labeled: "Style No. 257 / FC Co. / Pat. Oct. 18, 1880 / Pat. Feb. 3, 1885 / Trade Mark, Aug 8, 1888 / Trade Mark, May 31, 1887"
Bodice of black serge with dark green braided cord passementerie and jet bead applique. V-shaped neckline with black lace and ivory net dickey which closes on the right with 4 snaps. Ivory lace trim around collar and black lace around neckline and at cuffs. Long sleeves. Snaps on waistband for skirt (possibly not original to bodice and added at a later date). Center front closure of 4 hook & eyes snap at waistline; 4 non-functioning covered buttons trimmed with black bugle beads. Lined in brown fabric.
Dress top/bodice of black silk brocade in "tree branch" geometric design with lavender silk vestee front over-laid with black point d'esprit in pattern of squares. Modified leg of mutton sleeve with black passementerie trim. Stand-up collar of matching lavender silk covered in black lace. Collar and vestee close on left with hook & eyes. Black fabric lining of bodice is boned and closes at center front with hook & eyes in which hooks and eyes alternate sides. 29" waist.
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 13 holes high. At top of toe box is decorative seaming creating a "V" shape. The low, stacked heels styled as a modified Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering at center then flaring very slightly at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in cream cloth and black leather. Partly illegible retailer's(?) mark stamped inside uppers: "Linkhau... / Memphis Tenn" Handwritten notation inside uppers: "236 6788"
Flat brown bonnet with embroidered light green lace with gold, rose, olive green, light pink design and trimmed with ochre silk and a silk gold bow garnished with flowers.
Ripple style waist-length cape of black wool felt with yoke of five rows of black satin ribbon and 6" middle tier of black lace. Ruffled stand-up collar of black silk gauze. Secures at center front neckline with two hook & eyes and ties of black satin ribbon. Unlined.
Capelet of black silk satin. The short cape is trimmed along hem with 3-1/2" band of pleated organza and band of jet beads. Standing neckline trimmed in pleated organza. Center front opening with closure of five hook & eyes, with bow of black silk satin moire with trailing ends attached to right side of opening at throat. Shoulder yoke bordered in tightly gathered narrow band of black organza. Bright purple moire silk lining.
Two-tiered capelet of midnight blue/black velvet and off-white lace. Capelet extends to about small of back, and has high, standing collar trimmed in dense ruff of tightly gathered of black chiffon. Around throat, along both sides of center front opening, around hem, and on edges and hem of the wide tier (7" at center front, 8" over shoulders) is wide band of off-white floral and scroll lace, placed as an applique along edges. Lined in brown fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Mme. Josse / 3 / Boulevard des Italiens / Paris"
Child's dress of navy blue calico with rose colored paisley print. Long sleeves with caps at shoulders. Empire waistline; full length. Standing collar trimmed with ivory lace. Center front opening with 6 circular brass, concave buttons with red painted centers decorated with silver circles and a star. Back panel in Watteau style and forms a small train. Upper part of dress lined in blue cotton with small white flowers.
The facade of the railway station building is mostly visible behind a few trees. The building's style is a compilation of styles from Britain and India.
Petticoat of white cotton batiste. Fitted at waist and bell shaped/flaired below knees ; slightly trained in back. Fine insertion lace in 2-1/2" waves for ribbon insertion. Many rows of narrow inserted lace, 4" band of white embroidery in leaf motif and lace edged hem.
Handbag of brown crocodile with two feet attached to front face; stiffened ridge at center and smooth sides. Single contoured handle with brass fasteners. Inverted rectangular frame. Closure consists of two slides at ends with center slide and pull tab. Leather lined with inner accessory pocket. No labels.
Gold maroon and ivory striped silk ensemble. Three bodices and skirt. A, B, C: Bodices; D: Skirt. Original daytime (high necked long sleeved) top and evening off shoulder décolletage top of 1860's style with lower neckline, lace collar and chiffon sleeves. Remodeling evidently done by NESTOR. 24" waist. NESTOR, Importer - 25 East 29th St., NYC, NY, USA 24" waist.
Day ensemble of tan cotton batiste with woven cream stripes bordered in black. A: Fitted bodice. Yoke is covered in floral lace with black velvet trim; ruffled shoulders of self. Long, demi-gigot sleeves with 2-2/2" ruffle of self as cuffs. Center front hook & eye closure. Lined in mercerized cotton. B: Skirt of same fabric. Full-length with bustle back. Two rows of ruffles at hem; 22" waist. Hook & eye closure at center back on narrow waistband. Unlined.
Day/house hat of creme silk. Wide, wired brimmed hat with gold stitching throughout. Wide, low crown with ruffled brim. Pink flowers under and above brim. Large bow of self at back. Measurements: Front to back: ca. 29 cm. without "frill' Side to side: ca. 32 cm. without "frill" Height: ca. 9 cm. as worn, without "frill".
Dress of black silk matelassé. A) Fitted bodice of black silk matelassé with vestee of cream silk with lace appliqué trimmed in black and ivory braid in an Art Nouveau motif. High standing collar of lace appliqué matching vestee. Black velvet revers and trim at collar. Long sleeves with rolled back cuffs. Hook & eye closure at left of vestee. Vestee is lined in white polished cotton. Bodice is boned and lined in black polished cotton with center front hook & eye closure; 24" waist. B) Bustle-back skirt with slight train. Center back hook & eye closure. Unlined.
Cape of dense black gabardine, hip length, with hook and eye closure at the neck, short standing collar, hand beading across chest and back, with jet beads stitched in swirls across the front and in the center back and over the shoulders a net of jet beads hanging as an overlay. No markings
Chinese shoes of pale grey silk with multi-colored silk embroidered flowers; ankle strap with button closure; leather soles; canvas inner; 14cm length. Girl's shoes.
Pair of shoes of white silk damask with embroidery in green, blue, and pink. Around throat and upper edge is band of green embroidered pine cones(?)and scallop band. At toe is embroidered blossom in pale pink and blue, with trailing branches in greens with leaves in greens and buds in pinks and butterflies in greens, pinks, and browns. Along sides are similar embroidered branches, leaves, buds, and blossoms. Throatline of shoe with black banding. At point of throat is applied 3-dimensional flower of silk ribbon. Inner sole of dark tan leather, insides of shoes lined with pink/beige silk(?). Soles of leather, with built-up or stacked 1 1/4" (3cm) modified louis or opera heels. Stamped inside shoes in red are various marks in Chinese(?), and maker's mark, which is mostly illegible. 24 cm. long; 9 cm. at widest point; 9 cm. high at highest point. Heel: 3.5 cm. (1 1/4") high at axis.
Folding fan with mother of pearl sticks and guards. The leaf is of black Chantilly lace backed with cream satin. A small bail loop at base of fan has an off-white silk tassel hanging from it.
Girl's dress of calico in print of blue, green and gold flowers on red background. Square neckline trimmed in lace with three rows of narrow, black velvet ribbon. Elbow-length sleeves trimmed in matching lace and velvet ribbon. Full length, with dropped waist. Center front opening with five mother-of-pearl buttons and barred buttonholes; snap at bottom of opening. Bodice lined in muslin; sleeves and skirt unlined. Tag at center back neckline: "105"
Girl's fancy dress of beige silk satin with light green vertical stripes; satin ribbon flounces at hem, neckline, and sleeves. Large ruffle of net tulle with satin ribbon accents at the rounded neckline. Attached satin ribbon belt which forms three-looped bow in back. Short, puffed sleeves. Center back closure of hook & eyes. Slit pocket. Lined in cream colored organdy.
Graduation gown ensemble of ivory silk taffeta decorated with bands of pearls, glass beads and tucked beading. A) Fitted bodice. Front fullness below deep round yoke trimmed with beading. Yoke is constructed with horizontal and vertical pin tucks forming window pane/checkerboard pattern. High neck worn with neck ribbon. Epaulets over top of long cannon style sleeves with two sets of three pin tucks above elbow; pleated cuffs trimmed with matching beading. Hem of bodice is bordered with matching beading. Left side hook & eye closure and at left shoulder. Lined in white polished cotton with boning and separate hook & eye closure. B) Full length skirt gored and fitted over hips with train in the back. Narrow ruffle around the bottom. Center back opening with hook & eye on waistband. Lined in white polished cotton. Size 22" waist.
Small grey hat with flat brim turned upward at front. Back adorned with flowers and yellow and grey silk ribbon with feathers. Rim is trimmed with small silver studs. Crown has sequined applique. Back has a bow and flowers.
Pair of lady's slippers of brown kid leather with jet beading. Designed with pointed toes, the uppers are of brown kid leather, heavily decorated with radiating patterns of jet beads, over toe, around sides and throughout openwork that decorates throat and sides of shoes. Originally had sewn-in ties across the instep. Lined in black leather. Soles of black leather. High heels are of modified French style, sometimes called "spool" style, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front. There are no marks or labels in the shoes. The brown ribbons in photographs are not original, are to hold the shoe closed in place of original ribbons, now missing.
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