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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1970-1979
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Dress of black double knit. Just below knee-length, with long sleeves, bodice has slight V-neckline formed by slight standing collar, which merges with pair of points at center front formed by tucked pleats. Natural waist, A-line skirt. Center back zipper closure. Bodice lined in black, sleeves and skirt unlined. No labels in dress. With black leather belt with silver colored metal buckle. Stamped on reverse: "12 Do Not / Dry Clean"
Dress of black wool crepe in shift style. Knee length, with round neck and long narrow sleeves with zippers at wrist. See-through black lace trim running the length of dress at center front, shoulders, and outside of sleeve. Black satin 1-1/2" ribbon belt below bust line gives the effect of an empire waist; closes at center bow from the left with covered snaps and hook & eyes. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in light cocoa silk. Designer's label to right of zipper at neckline: "Chester / Weinberg"
Wrap dress of red silk dupioni. The street-length neck has a deep V-neckline formed by the overlap of front opening, which has snap and hook & eyes closures from waist. The dress has very short, cap sleeves, slit pockets at side seams, and a slightly gathered set-in waistband. The dress is lined in red silk. Designer's label at right opening waistline: "Halston" With matching fabric tie belt, 6" x 6', with triangular ends..
Dress of yellow nylon and chiffon with floral print in greens, white, and pale orange. Full-length dress consists of layers. Inner yellow nylon(?) sheath, sleeveless, with neckline with slight, shallow rounding. Center back zipper. Outer layer is attached to inner only at neckline and armholes. Full-length, flowing outer layer of yellow chiffon with floral print. Vertical pin tucks at left and right of neckline from shoulders mid-bust. Long, flowing panels from shoulders, not true sleeves, not closed along underside/inside of arm, but extending as over-sized cap sleeves - also described as "open kimono sleeves" or "over-sized flutter sleeves". Center back closure with 12 self covered buttons and loops. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Teal Traina / New York" Care label at side seam near hem: "Professionally / Dry Clean / Only" Union label at side seam near hem. Size label at side seam near hem: "10" Spare cloth-covered button sewn near union/care/size labels.
Dress of acrylic in print of blue, light blue and purple curved rays emanating from large hot pink circles, and with "Hanae Mori" signature in the print. Floor length dress has a peasant neckline and elbow length, puffed sleeves. Elastic gathered from bust to waist. Floor length. Side slit pockets. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Hanae Mori / Tokyo . New York" Size/fiber content/care label to left of designer label. With cord belt of same fabric.
Dress of blue nylon knit with clouds and airplane motif, and with "Hanae Mori" signature in the print. Full length, with round neck, gathered at yoke. Neckline is trimmed with three cords of same fabric and trailing ends forming a tie at the center front. Long sleeves are gathered at 1-1/2" cuffs, which close with large covered snap. Center front placket closes with large covered snaps and is trimmed with four airplane-shaped, nonfunctional buttons. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Hanae Mori / Tokyo . New York" Fiber content/care label to left of designer label. Union Label beside content/care label. With cord belt of same print fabric. With belt of magenta pink leather; 3/4" wide. Horseshoe shaped buckle.
Dress of black silk chiffon with large, painterly, abstract paisley designs of red, gold, light gray, blue, and purple. Full length, with three-quarter length sleeves with flutter ruffle along top seam. Round scoop neckline. Sheath-like silhouette; ankle-length. Center-back closure of 9 self-covered buttons and loops. Padded shoulders. Lined in black synthetic. Designer's label at back neckline: "Hanae Mori / Boutique" Care/content and size "14" tag attached to base of designer's label. with barrette of black grosgrain ribbon carnation with tiny satin ribbon accents of red, turquoise, and purple satin. (Worn with dress)
Dress of ivory knit. Knee-length or slightly longer A-line dress, sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Narrow band of navy blue piping around armholes, neck-hole, and in an openwork section at top of right shoulder where piping outlines edges and is made to appear as if it is "laced" between the edges, with large floppy bow at top. Two slit side seam pockets, and two very thin navy blue string belt loops at sides. 6" slit at right side seam from hem upwards. Center back opening with zipper from neckline. Lined in cream. Designer's label at right inside side seam: "Bill Blass" Size label near designer's label: "8" Care label near designer's label: "Professional / Dry Clean / Only" Union label near designer's label. With matching string belt of navy blue piping, with small circular covered button at one end and loop at other.
Dress of black shadow-stripe silk chiffon with red abstract print. Street length, with bound, rounded neckline. Long sleeves with snap at hem. Elastic in casing at waist. Six 3/8" covered buttons with self loops down bodice center back. Overskirt gathers from waistline, undulating from left front and back, 10 inches in length, graduates to 20 inches on right side. Slit 9" up from left side underskirt hem. Padded shoulders. Lined in black synthetic. Designer's label at left of center back opening: "Hanae Mori" Retailer's label at right of center back opening: "Neiman-Marcus" Care/content and size "8" tags at right side seam. With double-faced red satin belt; 2 inches x 56 inches long.
Dress and Jacket Ensemble
Ensemble of burgundy crepe a) Jacket is hip-length, and has round collar; bodice opens at center front, and has wide waistband that fastens with 2 self-buttons and loops. Gathered into waistband is peplum with circular ruffle; long sleeves are gathered at armhole have circular ruffles going down and around sleeves; b) Dress is below-knee-lenght, and has low V-neck formed by wide shoulder straps which button to lower back of dress; set-in empire waistline; sleeveless; bias cut skirt; zipper at left side back. Designer's label: "Ossie Clark / Paris" "Made in France" Handwritten style label: "59115 - 38 - 97727/19.92"
Earrings - Banjara Festival Attire
Earrings. Pair of earrings for pierced ears. Each earring is composed of an inner and outer circular hoop. A single flat silver pendant is suspended within the inner hoop, while a fringe of 7 pendants of a bugle bead and a silver sphere hang from the inner hoop. From the outer hoop hang a long triangular pendant fringe of 13 graduated strands with bugle beads, terminating in flat silver teardrop forms.
Earrings - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Earrings. Pair of heavy pendant earrings of silver-colored metal and glass. Bail loops suspend a roughly semi-circular silver plate with collet-set glass sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. From lower edge of plate are suspended small clusters of flat silver shapes and small spheres. Earrings do not match exactly.
Earrings - Rabari Festival Attire
Silver earrings. Hook fasteners attached to triangular plaques set with red or red and green glass circles. Below plaques are suspended hemispherical filigree pieces with fringe of wrapped wire and silver spheres. One earring with 5 red stones, one empty collet, the other earring with 4 red and 2 green stones.
Earrings - Rabari Festival Attire
Silver earrings. Wire hook fasteners attached to oval collet containing a large oval dark blue glass(?) cabochon stone. Below stone is suspended a filigree hemisphere with dense fringe of silver shaped plaques and spheres.
Ensemble. a) Jacket of beige bias cut wool gaberdine. Double breasted with 6 basket weave covered fabric buttons and bound buttonholes; two interior black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Waist length, straight sides. Notched collar. Bracelet length sleeves with two functioning, matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Flap pockets at sides. Collar, front opening, sleeve hems and pocket flaps trimmed in black. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" Retailer's label at left front opening: "Rich's / Specialty Shop" b) Blouse of printed silk twill in orange and yellow squares. Center front opening with 7 gold plastic circular buttons and barred buttonholes. Long sleeves with cuffs having a single matching button. Ends of collar extend to form tie. Unlined.Ensemble. a) Norell: Jacket of beige bias cut wool gaberdine. Double breasted with 6 basket weave covered fabric buttons and bound buttonholes; two interior black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Waist length, straight sides. Notched collar. Bracelet length sleeves with two functioning, matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Flap pockets at sides. Collar, front opening, sleeve hems and pocket flaps trimmed in black. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" Retailer's label at left front opening: "Rich's / Specialty Shop" b) Norell: Blouse of printed silk twill in orange and yellow squares. Center front opening with 7 gold plastic circular buttons and barred buttonholes. Long sleeves with cuffs having a single matching button. Ends of collar extend to form tie. Unlined. c) Rech: Skirt of black wool. Narrow waistband with center back button and zipper below. Skirt gathers slightly into waistband. Pockets at sides. Fully lined. Designer's label: "Synonyme / de georges rech paris"; "Made in France" Size: "40" Fabric: "100% Woc / Laine, Wool, Wolle, Lana, / wol. / [care pictograms]" 2nd fabric/care tag sewn to first, primarily in French.
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Two-piece ensemble of black satin. Blouse of wrap style, with surplice neckline squared at across back and front to collar bones, plunging into a V at front, and with long sleeves. Neckline, hem, and sleeves edged in 2" wide band of trapunto quilting work consisting of 6 rows of stitching. Long sleeves have 3" zippers at cuffs. 1-inch wide attached belt ties in back. Unlined. No labels in bodice. Matching skirt. Black, below-knee length, with narrow waistband into which skirt is gathered. Left side zipper, with hooks and eyes at waistband. Unlined. Inside Label, typewritten on cloth tape: " JUPE 43 011020 NEIMAN MARCUS" or possibly "JUPE 43 OTTO 20 NEIMAN MARCUS"
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble in black silk crepe with diagonal "scratch print" in green, consisting of: Tunic style top. Below-hip length, with asymmetrical neckline. Long flaring dolman bottom sleeves. Cut on bias. Unlined. Belted with tie sash of same fabric, with pointed ends and lingerie hem. Skirt. Midi length, with elastic waist and zipper closing on diagonal at left side toward back. Unlined.
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Two piece skirt ensemble of navy blue linen consisting of: Blouse with round high neckline having asymmetric bodice closure. Curved diagonal top edge extension with four purple plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes at left side and one button with snap at right neckline. Short sleeves with modified box caps (seams rather than tucks). Bodice cut short and full, with slight lower flare. Padded shoulders. Lined in dark blue silk satin. Length: 20 1/2" (52.1 cm). Length: Designer's label at center back neckline: "Bill Blass" Union label, cleaning instructions and size "6" tag at left side seam. Skirt of medium length, straight, two panel style, gathered to narrow fitted waistband. Inseam slit pockets at both sides, with invisible zipper closure behind left pocket and large hook at waistband. Fully lined in same silk fabric as top. No designer label. 23 1/2" (59.7 cm). Size "6" tag at left side seam.
Ensemble - Blouse and Slacks
Outfit. A) Blouse of multicolored polyester in a geometric design. "Midriff scarf blouse" style, with wide elastic neckline, cropped waist, and wide band of elastic smocking to create waistband below bust. Lower edge with ruffle effect. Sleeves are triangular in shape, forming oversized wings that flow as wearer moves. No labels. B) Slacks of off-white cotton or cotton/polyester blend. Full-length, with wide, slightly flaring legs and pronounced cuffs. Wide waistband, with cf zipper and two snaps at waistband. Wide belt-loops. Unlined. No labels. Handwritten inside: "M B Walker F"
Ensemble - Blouse, Pants, and Sash
Ensemble of magenta silk chiffon consisting of: (A) Tunic style top of printed chiffon with bodice in lotus flower motif. Low crossover, V-shaped front with closure of two covered snaps. Long flowing, bell-shaped sleeves and flared skirt. Skirt and sleeve hems have monofilament inserted to give body and shape. Bodice lined in light blue rayon chiffon. Designer's label at center back neckline: "(Japanese characters) / Hanea Mori " Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" Content/care label at center back neckline. Size "14" tag attached to base of designer label. (B) Pants of magenta silk chiffon. Wide legs of three layers of chiffon. Center back opening of five covered snaps with hook & bar and additional covered snap on 1" waistband. Size "14" tag at center back. (C) Sash of matching lotus flower motif printed chiffon.
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246" This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972. The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must look like the light shining through the stained glass windows of the Chapel." The ensemble has a matching pair of shoes by Roger Viver made of fabric in the same print.
Ensemble - Coat, Blouse, and Skirt
Ensemble. A) Coat of brown and white felted wool. Knee-length or longer, long set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 5 large circular brown plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Main body of coat of pale brown and white check design, with cuffs, collar, and lower band of coat (about hips to hem) of light brown. Light brown and white check self tie belt. Side slit pockets. Lined in pale taupe. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" Hand-written label just above designer's label: "Deborah 929" B) Blouse of cream wool jersey. Long sleeves, high standing collar. Center back zipper closure running almost entire length of garment, from top of collar to about 3" above hem. Hook & eye at top of collar. Collar lined in satin, the rest of the blouse is unlined. Not hemmed. Hand-written label sewn in at neckline: "Deborah 929" C) Skirt of brown wool tweed. Mid-length; slight A-line. Narrow, 1-1/2" waistband. Fully lined in brown silk(?). Center back zipper closure with large hook & eye on waistband. Hand-written label "Deborah 1929". D) Belt of brown leather with wide square, self-covered buckle. Two inches wide. Belt is attached to skirt with inner bands of leather to which loops from the skirt are sewn. Stamped on reverse: "26 Norman Norell 3736".
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Dress and coat of peacock feathers. The short, sleeveless dress is entirely covered with peacock breast feathers, accented with a 1" band of blue cording and chenille trim at neckline and with blue cord spaghetti straps. It is fully lined with navy polyester. The long, sleeveless coat is covered with peacock herl / flue feathers. It has a round neckline, and no closure. These pieces are part of a larger ensemble, consisting of a total of 9 pieces decorated with peacock and/or golden pheasant feathers. Worn to the Emmy Awards ceremony in Los Angeles, California, April 1976.
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket of brown and white printed silk plaid or tartan. The waist-length jacket has a turn-down collar and wrist-length sleeves. It is single-breasted with a center front opening with four large circular brown plastic buttons and piped buttonholes. The jacket is fully lined in off-white silk. Designer's label located inside below center back of collar: "Made in / France / Givenchy". The matching dress is mid-length, to just below the knee, with round neck and princess seaming. It is sleeveless, and has box pleats at lower part of skirt. There is a zipper closure at left side. The dress is lined with off-white silk throughout with the exception of the box pleated area. Designer's label at inside side seam near right armhole: "Givenchy".
Ensemble - Dress and Skirt
Dress ensemble of red lace with dark brown and metallic gold embroidery in floral design. A) Dress. Calf length with rolled collar. Four-snap closure down center front. Elastic waistline. Long straight sleeves with band cuffs and snap closure. Scalloped hem. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Miss Dior / Made in France" B) Skirt of red silk. Straight with 1" waistband. Center back closure of covered hook & eye on waistband and 2 snaps. Evidence of four removed darts. C) Belt of self-covered leather; 2" wide. Gold circle buckle with two hooks and three pairs of grommets for closure.
Ensemble - Egyptian Traditional Ensemble
Egyptian Ensemble. A) Galabeya. Full-length galabeya of black cotton, with rounded neckline cut at base to for a shallow "V". Caftan style, with long sleeves and slit from hem upwards on right side. Front of galabeya with embroidered and applique decoration. Around neck and front of bodice is floral decoration and scrolls in gold, greens, red, and blue, and central shield-shaped gold satin applique piece with embroidered scroll work in gold and blue. Lower part of galabeya with matching, but inverted similar gold satin appliques with embroidered scrolls, and embroidered floral forms. Long sleeves with thin rectangular embroidered gold bands along wrist. Unlined. B) Head Scarf. Rectangle of fine red fabric, lower edge scalloped. Upper edge with sewn border incorporating spaced gold cylindrical beads. Ends of scarf and scalloped area of lower edge with thin crocheted/sewn band with spaced gold tear-drop beads and simulated gold coins. Applied to center of scarf are two bands of red crocheted/knitted net with gold spherical beads and pendant simulated gold coins.
Ensemble - Jacket and Pants
Ensemble in lavender ultra suede consisting of: A) Jacket. Single breasted with center front opening of 8 small circular tan buttons. Below hip length; box style. Turndown collar with pointed ends. Long, set-in sleeves with 2-1/2" cuffs and matching button closure. Patch pockets at sides. Jacket is trimmed with three vertical rows of pin tucks at each side from shoulder to pockets. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Mollie Parnis / a Skinner Ultra / Suede Fabric" B) Pants. Wide cut, full length. Center front zipper with fly and 2 hook & eyes and snap on 1" waistband and waist tab which closes with matching button. Unlined. Laundry instructions and union label to right of zipper. C) Tie belt of self; 1-1/4" wide.
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt and Blouse
Suit in hot pink nubbly wool knit. The ensemble consists of three pieces: a jacket, matching skirt, and black silk shell. The jacket is hip-length, with a shawl collar which has an attached black silk tie. The center front closure has 6 circular brass buttons with central embossed lion's heads and black outer edges. There are four faux flap pockets at front, two on each side of opening, each with button matching those of the closure. The long sleeves have simulated closure, with a line of three buttons matching others on each sleeve. The pocket flaps, cuffs, collar, center front, and hem are all edged in black. Designer's label sewn inside jacket at collar: "Adolfo / New York", with retailer's label sewn in just below: "Neiman-Marcus". The matching skirt is below-knee length, of the same pink wool knit, with pleating beginning 7" below waistband and extending to hem. Skirt has designer's label sewn inside at waistband as jacket. The accompanying black silk blouse is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Single black silk -covered button closure at back of neck. Shell has designer's label sewn inside at left of closure as jacket.
Ensemble - Nubian Traditional Ensemble
Nubian Ensemble. A) Jirjara robe (Nubian-style young woman's galabeya) of sheer black machine made lace with floral pattern woven into the lace. Full-length, with rounded neckline. Wide rounded, almost boat-neckline edged with row of large, spaced golden discs. A second row of gold discs runs slightly lower across upper chest. Long sleeves with slight cuffs. Dropped waist with wide horizontal pin-tucks. Skirt gathered into sewn band just below bottom pin-tuck. B) Under-dress of blue cotton printed with ancient Egyptian-inspired motifs including lotus and flying birds, done in gold, red, and black. Full-length, with "keyhole" neckline, lower part of keyhole with scalloped edge. Slits at side seams from hem up to mid-calf. Very short sleeves. Garment cut to create very slight "A"-line shape, by cutting in under arms. Unlined. C) Head scarf of very fine black fabric. Triangular in shape, with edging of crochet/knitting of black yarn threaded with small clear crystal/glass cylindrical beads. Outer edge of beaded loop "tassels" of the same beads.
Ensemble - Nubian Traditional Ensemble
Nubian Ensemble. A) Jirjara robe (Nubian-style young woman's galabeyah) of sheer black machine-made lace with scattered "tendrils" of various sized dots all-over which extend from hem upwards. Full-length, with rounded neckline and slight "V" at front. Full-length sleeves flaring to wrist. B) Under-dress of white cotton embroidered with ancient Egyptian-inspired motifs, including lotus blossoms. Full-length, with rounded neckline with small "V" at front. Neckline edged with green embroidery. Short sleeves edged with similar green embroidery, as are the short slits from the hem upwards. "Bib" at front of upper part of dress with green, yellow, blue, red, and pink embroidery of stylized lotus, scrolls, border lines, etc. Front of skirt with large embroidered motif of lotus(?) growing from bowl, with other blossoms around, in same colors. Back is plain. Unlined. C) Head scarf of very fine black fabric. Triangular in shape, with edging of simulated gold-colored coins. With suite of costume jewelery of gold-colored metal hung with faux coins, consisting of: 1) Necklace. Simple gold chain suspending triangular "net" of gold quaterfoil-shaped links hung with tiers of faux coins. Simple hook fastener. "Cascade" style. 2) Headpiece (?). Formed of two linked triangles of net with 6-lobed openwork links, hung with tiers of faux coins. At center point is large heart-shaped pendant hung with fringe of coins on short beaded strands. 3) Earrings. Pair. Simple hook suspends horizontal bar from which hangs a triangular "cascade" of tiers of faux gold coins hung on a net of quatrefoil-shaped links. 4) Bracelet. Cuff-style openwork wire bracelet with fringe of tiny spherical bells. 5) Bracelet. Cuff-style bracelet of openwork metal hung with a triangular "cascade" of tiers of faux gold coins hung on a net of quatrefoil-shaped links.
Ensemble - Vest and Pants
Ensemble consisting of a vest and pants. The vest is of wool,with a scoop-neck and with 5 hook-and-eye closures down center front. It is covered in sewn-on black sequins, and has a 1" border of orange, white and gold beads with gold trim at neckline, front opening, hem, and armholes. On the front and back of the vest are 3" diamond shapes formed of the same beads. The white and orange beads are plastic. The vest is fully lined in black fabric. Labels in vest: "Valentina LTD / RN 34435 / Made in Hong Kong"; "100% Wool / Made in Hong Kong"; and "Medium". The pants are formed as a divided skirt of black wool in a satin weave simulating crepe-back satin. They are floor length, with full-length accordion pleats. There is a wide 3" waistband that is completely beaded to match the vest. The pants have a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband, and are unlined. Inside the pants is a single tag at waistband: "Lot Number 11/12".
Ensemble - Vest and Skirt
Ensemble of mauve suede and feather-work, consisting of: Vest of mauve suede with elaborate feather-work at each side of center-front opening. Feathers include taupe, brown and silver ostrich plumes, pheasant and small dark brown and white feathers; the designs accented at bottom with leaf appliques in violet fabric and in gold metallic reptile. The vest has a round neckline; the slightly angled center front opening having four hook & eye closures. Slightly curved hemline. Unlined. Total length: 19 3/8" (49.2cm). Designer's label at center back neckline: "Becky Bisoulis" Retailer label at base of designer label: "Marie Leavell" and size "M" tag at base of retailer label. Skirt of mauve suede. Medium length. Straight, four panel skirt gathered to elasticized waistband. Deep, 11 7/8" (29.5cm) slit at lower left seam. Closure by invisible zipper at center back with large hook & bar on waistband. Lined with lilac silk crepe de chine. Total length: 27" (68.6cm). Designer's label at right side seam: "Becky Bisoulis" with size "8" tag attached to base of label. Retailer's label to right of designer label: "Marie Leavell"
Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts
Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt. First image shows: a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell". b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York". c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". The second image shows: a) Vest, described above. b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund.
Evening Dress
Evening dress of off-white Qiana knit in mermaid style covered in flat gold sequins. 1" stand up band collar. Long sleeves with zippers at wrists. Center back zipper with hook & eye. 1-1/2" waistband with slightly flared skirt. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam near hem: "Norman Norell for I. Magnin & Co."
Evening Dress
Evening dress in mermaid style of bronze Qiana knit covered in flat copper/bronze sequins. 2" stand up band collar. Long sleeves with 3" cuffs, each having 3 self covered, sequined buttons. Center back zipper with hook & eye. 3" waist band with interior petersham. Slightly flared, full length skirt. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam: "Norman Norell for I. Magnin & Co." Union label to right of designer/retailer label.
Evening Dress
Evening Dress in a layered green floral print silk with white chrysanthemums and pink peonies. Dress consists of: A) Over dress of silk chiffon. Full length. Elbow length, set-in sleeves with tied hems. Center front opening with collarless, piped neckline which closes with two covered snaps. Wide box pleat down center back. Size "8" tag at center back neckline. B) Under dress in slip style of matching silk. V-shaped neckline with 3/8" strapped shoulders that form a crisscross in back and secures in front with snaps. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye. Slits at side seams are 20" long. Lined in green rayon. Designer's label at center back zipper: "(Japanese symbols) / Hanae Mori" Size "8" tag at base of designer's label. Retailer's tag above designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Care/content label at center back neckline.
Evening Dress
Evening dress of pink silk crepe. Full length tubular skirt with gathered natural waist seam and matching, attached, 3"wide, flat belt. The belt front is accented with a large five loop bow centered with a looped rosette cluster and is secured at center back opening with four hook & bars. Draped, sleeveless, side-less, tunic-style over bodice of same with open rounded neckline. The over bodice shapes over the bust with soft folds. Fitted, boned inner bodice of pink silk crepe with flesh colored spaghetti straps. Inner bodice and over bodice have separate center back zipper closures from mid-back to the waist with a single hook & loop/hook & eye at the neckline. The skirt is slit at center front from the hem to knee-level. Piece lined in pink silk. Wide, boned, white nylon tulle waist stay with center back closure. Designer's label located inside center back of skirt at mid-thigh: "Mollie Parnis / New York" Retailer's label attached at inside center front of skirt above the slit: "Neiman-Marcus" Union label on center back seam below designer's label.
Evening Dress
Evening dress of light aqua blue polyester. Full length, slightly A-lined. Straight neckline with 1/2" shoulder straps; left shoulder strap closes with hook & eye. Deep U-shaped back with 5 horizontal rows of matching 1/2" straps having attached matching bows and additional bow at base of U. Mock horizontal welt pockets at hips. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Lined in light blue acetate. Designer's label at center front neckline: "Courréges / Paris / made in France" Content/cleaning tag below designer's label state style number "17021"
Evening Dress
Evening dress, consisting of:. A) Coat style dress in eggplant machine lace re-embroidered with Lurex chenille in wine and silver, accented with couched silver threads in a stylized floral and foliage motif. Semi-fitted bodice with moderate V-neckline. Wide spread collar with scalloped edges. Long, set-in sleeves. Scalloped center front opening secured with six tailored buttonholes and six squared, silver buttons. Natural waist seam with full, box pleated, knee-length skirt. Unlined. B) Slip of heavy wine red silk satin. Knee-length. Fitted camisole top with flesh-tone spaghetti straps. Center back zipper with a single hook & eye at the neckline. Designer's label inside left of center back: "Galanos" Retailer's label inside right of center back: "Neiman-Marcus"
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black silk crepe. Below-knee length; sleeveless, but cut to form a very slight cap sleeve effect just off shoulder. Semi-fitted tunic-like bodice with plunging V-neckline formed by wrap construction, the lapped center front closure with two hook & bar closures at waist. Surplus fabric in front and back gathers into the narrow waistband. Skirt appears tubular, and has scalloped front hem. Designer's label at center back inside: "Halston" Size label at back inside waist: "8" Care label - dry clean only Union label (1974-1990s style)
Evening Dress
Evening dress of gray, aqua and pink Pucci-style printed silk surah in abstract swirl and circle design. Fabric has "Bessi" signature in fabric design. Flared, full-length princess-line seaming with high rounded neckline. Bracelet length, set-in sleeves with a box pleated shaping tuck between the elbow and wrist. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye at the neckline. Fully lined in ivory silk jacquard with the designer's name. Designer's label at right of zipper: "Bessi / Firenze Italia". Retailer's label at left of zipper: "Expressly / for / Lou Lattimore / Made in / Italy". Fabric/Care label below retailer's label: "To be dry cleaned / 100% pure silk / Made in Italy". Size tag below fabric/care label: "16".
Evening Dress and Scarf
Evening dress of red, blue and gray polyester silk chiffon with scarf. Dress is full-length and has draped bodice with moderate deep V-neckline. Center front lapped opening with three hook & eyes and two snaps as the closure. Set-in modified kimono sleeves gather at the top of the arm eye and at 1-1/2" cuffs. The cuffs fasten with a single loop and covered shank button. The sleeves are open/slit along the outer edge and under arm. Natural waist seam with full-length, semi-full red polyester silk underskirt and printed chiffon over skirt. The underskirt is slit at the side seams. The bodice is fully lined in red polyester silk. Elasticized waistline. Shoulder pads. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Hanae Mori" Fiber content/care tag, union label and style/size tag at right side seam of lining. With matching scarf/sash of matching printed chiffon. Long narrow rectangular shape with rolled hem. When worn as a scarf it would hang to mid-calf; as a sash it would be hem length.
Evening Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Evening ensemble consisting of: A) Evening dress of black wool crepe, knee-length, sleeveless, and with jewel neckline. Center back zipper, with hook & eye. Attached belt of 2-1/2" wide black satin ribbon at waist. Side in-seam pockets. Lined in black silk. B) Jacket of black wool crepe with satin cuffs, and jewel neckline, and long sleeves. Center front opening. Jacket is completely covered in vertical lines of clear/ mirror rhinestones. Lined in black silk. Jacket has combined Designer's/Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell for Bonwit Teller"
Evening Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Evening ensemble of red Qiana knit covered in red sequins, consisting of two parts: A) Evening dress in mermaid style. Slip style bodice with spaghetti straps. Full length, straight skirt. Center back zipper with hook & eye. 1" waistband with interior red grosgrain ribbon petersham. Bodice lined in red Qiana knit; skirt lined in red silken fabric. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam of lining: "Norman Norell for I. Magnin & Co." B) Matching Chanel-style jacket. Long sleeves. Collarless neckline, center front opening and hem of sleeves trimmed with 1" border of straight-line sequins. Horizontal welt pockets at sides also bordered with 1" straight-line sequins. Lined in matching red Qiana knit. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "I. Magnin & Co."
Evening Gown
Evening gown of black and white printed silk chiffon with belt and scarf. A) Evening gown in black on white, op-art printed silk chiffon with a predominant concentric circle motif. Empire bodice with moderate front scooped neckline and plunging back scooped neckline. Full-length, set-in, flared chiffon sleeves. The bodice is heavily beaded with black and white bugle beads repeating the circle motif. Center back zipper closure from mid-back to hip line. Semi-fitted, full-length, black on white op-art printed, heavy silk underskirt with gathered, printed concentric circle chiffon overskirt. The bodice is lined in white rayon faille. The skirt is lined in white jacquard rayon with the logo "Mori Hanea" woven into the fabric. Turned and bound hem. Designer's label sewn inside at back: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori" Retailer's label at inside back: "Neiman-Marcus" Manufacturer label at inside back: "RN 35995 / Out Cloth Silk 100% / Lining Rayon 100% / Made in Japan / Dry Cleaning only" B) Belt covered in matching black on white printed silk chiffon. Black leather backing. Square, covered, functional buckle. Tension closure. C) Scarf: Matching black on white printed silk chiffon scarf. Long rectangular scarf with rolled hem.
Evening Pumps
Evening pumps of mint green satin. The shoes are designed with a gently pointed toe and plain upper. Across instep is band of rhinestones, clear beads, and simulated pearl teardrop pendants. The stiletto heel is covered in same fabric. Designer's label stamped inside: "Salvatore / Ferragamo / Florence / Italy"
Evening Pumps
Pair of evening pumps of pale blue and gold floral forms brocade. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have uppers of of blue and gold brocade with large circular gold colored metal disc at vamp, set with rhinestones, and with a wide ribbon of same brocade extending from beneath the button to outside edge. 2 1/2" high modified Louis heel is covered with same brocade and tapers to base. Designer's stamp inside: "Roger Vivier / Paris" and "sur mesure"
Festival Attire - Akha Hill Tribe
Festival ensemble, Akha Hill Tribe, Thailand. a) Jacket/bodice. Jacket or bodice of black cotton, waist-length, with no collar, shaped neckline, and front opening with no closures. On right side of bodice at upper breast/collarbone is applied panel/section which forms edge of opening. Panel has "zig-zag" effect of three points created by patchwork of various printed fabrics and applied thin bands. Long sleeves with blue fabric sewn at ends to create cuffs. At back, "hanging" from collar is patchwork panel of patterned cloths shaped as a trapezoid with curved long side. Primarily lined in blue cloth with white geometric/linear designs, part of embroidery panel at front lined with a printed brown fabric with small black/yellow geometric design. (zig-zag panel at front) b) Pants. Pants of black cotton embellished with multicolored embroidery. Full-length depending on height of wearer. Wide plain waistband in front, elasticized section at back, and with attached string belt at side which has pom-pom terminals. At front, from waistband, are two "flaps" over upper legs, one forming a pocket with wide decorative band at top consisting of red strips of fabric on dark blue fabric band. The second flap has wide horizontal band of embroidered fabric, with bands of diamonds, squares, "x" shapes, etc. in yellow, blue, white, black, etc. on primarily orange ground. Cuffs of pants, at outer side of each leg, has rectangular applied panels of cross-stitch embroidered fabric in reddish, white, and mustard, with applied machine-woven decorative ribbon with pink squares and blue shapes. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. c) Hat. Black with beading and silver and shells, with red decorations and pendant parts d) Belt. Black cotton(?) belt formed as a rectangle, upper and side edges straight, lower edge gently scalloped to form points at center front and at sides. Belt is edged with border of small blue/green, brownish/tan seeds, with two horizontal bands of same seeds running across belt. Between bands of seeds are bands of silver-colored cabochon discs. Just above each point is a star-burst made of oval white beads/seeds, colored beads, and a cowrie(?) shell. From each point hangs 3 beaded pendants with a bell at end of each. Belt secures with black ties. No labels or tags. ca. 35 1/2" long w/out ties; 5" wide w/out fringe/pendants. e & f) Over-sleeves. Detachable sleeves formed as two 15 1/2" long fabric cylinders, slightly wider at top than cuff, which slide over sleeves of jacket. The cylinders are made of horizontal bands of different woven patterned fabrics of primarily pinks with green, white, and orange decorations, sewn together, with alternating bands of red cloth with applied rick-rack in blue, white, green, yellow, pink, etc., each with silver threading. Sleeves are lined with a printed white fabric with blue linear stripe/band designs. No labels or tags in garment. g) Bag of black cotton, embellished with embroidery, bead-work, silver discs, and a single coin. Long black cotton strap.
Fringed Jacket
Jacket of dark brown sueded leather, with fringe. Hip-length jacket in "hippie style" has center front opening with 4 circular dark brown translucent buttons (one missing), patch pockets, long sleeves, and bands of long self fringe along arms, on bands across upper breast, at edges of patch pockets, along lower hem, and along back yoke. Lined in lavender acetate. Maker's (Brand?) label at inside back collar: "México / Típico / Hecho en Mexico", stamped with blue "36" in upper right corner.
Korean Hanbok. A) Jeogori (Jacket) of white and red damask patterned with floral motifs. Short, cropped white damask top with deep V neckline lined in red damask. Long sleeves, widening towards fore-arm and then curved to wrist. Under-arm area and cuff of the red damask. Center front opening secured with one hidden snap and two long ties of red damask. Lined in thin white fabric. No labels in garment. B) Chima (Skirt) of red damask matching the Jeogori. Full-length, wrap-style garment. Thin white straps to go over shoulders support wide upper band into which the body of the skirt is gathered. Ties at back with ties of red damask. Lined in dark red fabric. No labels in garment.