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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Derby Hat

Derby Hat

Date: 1948
Creator: Louise Inc.
Description: Hat in derby style of navy felt. Edge of crown trimmed in wide bands of navy, gray and red yarn with very narrow gold thread knots tied to tasseled ends of yarn bands. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker/retailer's label: "A / Neiman / Marcus / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dinner Dress

Dinner Dress

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
D'Orsay Pumps

D'Orsay Pumps

Date: 1949
Creator: Pandora Footwear
Description: Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede. Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear" The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress of silk crepe for summer. The full-length dress has an A-line skirt of cocoa brown silk crepe and attached belt with pendant strap at front left. The bodice is of cream silk crepe printed with a "trompe l'oeil" ribbon motif below the rounded neckline. Darts at sides. Long, bat-wing style tapered sleeves. Center-back snap closure. Unlined. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Brown print silk dress with belt and umbrella. A) Full-length silk dress printed with brown/white/black over-all pattern of large leaves or pinecones on stems. Wide, shallow neckline. Side zipper. Sleeveless, with sleeves edged with cut-out leaf shapes from the print. Hem with same treatment. A-line skirt. Unlined. Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same fabric, backed in cream leather, with rectangular, fabric-covered buckle. C) Umbrella. Not pictured.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: David Crystal
Description: Dress of brown puckered nylon. Street length with A-lined skirt. Fitted bodice. Spread collar and 3/4 length sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Two patch pockets at upper bust, with false flaps. Center front opening with 5 circular cast brass buttons and hidden hook & eye at natural waist. Slit pockets at hips. Unlined. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Sports Shop" With matching narrow belt faced in same fabric, backed in brown leather. Rectangular self-covered buckle. Stamped on reverse: "10 1820"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1948
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of: A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels. B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk. Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie" National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Cape Coat and Dress

Ensemble - Cape Coat and Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Two-piece wool tweed cape/coat street ensemble. a) Cape coat of wool tweed in three shades of plum. Long, single-breasted coat with cape attached at shoulders. Four button closure with alternating bound buttonholes and supplemented with two hook & eyes. Two small double welt pockets on yoke and two larger double welt pockets at waistline. Coat dress portion is tailored at waistline with 3/4 length sleeves. Small turndown collar. Lined in rust brown colored silk faille. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / Original" b) Straight skirt of matching wool tweed. Unlined. Zipper closure.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Date: 1946
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Ensemble of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. A) Dress of blue heathered wool herringbone knit with bodice of black jersey knit. Short sleeves. 1 1/2" wide mandarin collar. Center back zipper closure with self-covered button and buttonhole on collar at back. Skirt is street length with slight A-line. Unlined skirt. No labels in dress. B) Fitted jacket of of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. Long sleeves with cuffs of black Persian lamb. V-neckline trimmed in black Persian lamb. Left side closure with two circular black metal buttons at shoulder and four matching button on left side seam. Lined in black silk crepe. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline of jacket: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress consisting of jacket and skirt. A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1940
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1948/1952
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening dress of champagne peau de soie. Princess style. Sweetheart neckline in front, with small horizontal pleats at front left and right princess seaming at upper part of bust; back neckline is low and rounded. 1-1/2 inch wide shoulder straps that split in front to form an inverted Y, with horizontal band of same fabric at dividing point. Natural waist. Skirt is below knee length, at at hips has three almost horizontal bias folds which extend to from hip center back and join to form bow; lower sash ends of the bow attach to skirt to form "bustle drape", giving added fullness. Attached net petticoat gathered to taffeta yoke; back zipper. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: Autumn 1944
Creator: Copeland, Jo
Description: Evening dress of wine-colored hammered rayon satin. Wide, bateau neckline trimmed with wine colored ostrich feathers, sequins and bows of matching fabric. Short sleeves. Street length. Ruching at center front of bodice and at center back seam below waist. Left side zipper. Unlined; shoulder pads. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" With matching tie belt, 1 1/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1940
Creator: Rentner, Maurice
Description: Evening dress of rose/pale pink/pale mauve crepe-back satin charmeuse. Inspired by Chinese Cheongsam-style garments, the dress is full-length, slim fitted, with slight standing collar fastened with hidden hook & loop. Sleeveless, the dress has front opening from throat to slightly below right shoulder, secured with three large rhinestone set circular brass(?) buttons. Very slightly raised waist with triangular "flap", open and hanging down from center front to right hip. From just below hip to center front at hem is secondary opening, with 7 buttons matching bodice. Hem slightly scalloped at front overlap corners, and at right side. Left side underarm zipper. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside bodice: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Maurice Rentner" With tie belt of same fabric, 3/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1948/1951
Creator: James, Charles
Description: Evening gown of bright brown satin and black velvet. Form fitted bodice of brown satin narrows at waist and dips to a center front seam, where fabric is gathered and drapes down to full-length skirt; black velvet skirt surrounds CF fabric and creates a fullness at hips. Handwritten cloth tape label in skirt: "Charles James 47" Accompanied by a brassier, not shown in photo. Designer's Label: "This is an original / Madame Adrienne / 35 other pat. pend. / pat. 3072879"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1941~
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening gown of rose pink silk. Full-length, sleeveless, with sweetheart neckline and thin satin cord double-straps at each shoulder. Bodice with fan-shaped radiating seaming from center line outwards over each cup, but not meeting at center point - left side starting higher than right. Raised waist, into which skirt is gathered. From sides, towards front, and down along sides of front is "fin" of same fabric, which extends out, with slight "ruffle" effect to edge. Center back zipper closure. Part-lined in very pale peach/pink fabric (bust, upper abdomen, etc. Retailer's label inside skirt at side seam, partly printed, partly hand-written: "Bergdorf-Goodman / Fifth Ave., New York / Mrs. R. Lloyd / Date: 10/13/41 No. 17313"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Shoes

Evening Shoes

Date: 1941~
Creator: Haggerty, Nancy
Description: Pair of evening shoes of cream satin and gold leather trim. Designed as modified heeled sandals, the shoes have a rounded, open toe, and toe-box formed of four rounded "petals" of satin that rise up from the sides and join at top of toe-box. The "petals" are edged in gold leather, and have cut-outs between. Open sides, and straps around ankles and instep secured by small rectangular gold-colored buckles set with small rhinestones. Wide strap at back of heel. Satin covered heel is a modified boulevard heel, with rounded sides, slight waist, and curved front. Designer's stamp, left and right shoe: "Nancy Haggerty / Shoes Inc / New York" Handwritten in both shoes: "820X - Gold / 4 1/2 C / X6297"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fedora

Fedora

Date: 1948
Creator: Valerie Hat
Description: Hat of gray felt. The hat is styled as a man's fedora. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Hat is unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York", with size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fedora

Fedora

Date: 1945
Creator: Hatnegie Hats Inc.
Description: Hat of rich brown felt, styled as a fedora. Crown somewhat cylindrical, flattened at top, with slightly indented top square panel. At base of crown is 2" wide band of light brown/beige grosgrain ribbon, with trailing ends. Medium-width brim of same felt, turned up at back and sides, down slightly at front. Unlined, but with inner reddish brown grosgrain ribbon hatband, and attached black elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hatnegie Hats Inc. / New York" Style label: "5226" Size label: "21 1/2"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fedora Hat

Fedora Hat

Date: 1948
Creator: Valerie
Description: Fedora style hat of gray felt. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York" Size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fedora Hat

Fedora Hat

Date: 1944
Creator: unknown
Description: Fedora style hat of brown felt with brown satin ribbon as trim around crown. Unlined. Retailer's label: "Knox / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Garrison Cap

Garrison Cap

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Varon, Evelyn
Description: Hat of black and brown suede. Brim-less. Style resembles a garrison cap. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Evelyn Varon / Model" Union label at left of designer's label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Gloves

Gloves

Date: 1943/1949
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Glove of pale blue-gray cotton with green undertone. Hands have seams on outside; running stitch of same color; wrists widen and dip in V shape on thumb side; pinkie finger side of wrist features a large scalloped edge. Label sewn in right glove: "Gloves / Designed by / Lilly Dache", with "7" in a circle indicating size.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Halo Hat

Halo Hat

Date: [1940..1945]
Creator: unknown
Description: Pamela or halo style hat of natural colored straw cloth. Crown ringed with brown silk organza roses. Edge of brim covered with natural colored grosgrain. One hatpin with black, teardrop shaped head. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Henrys / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design