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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: [1941..1946]
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Black wool two-piece skirt suit. A) Jacket. Just below hip-length, with center front opening with three hook-and-eye closures. Faux tie of same fabric at waist. Slight collar, and v-neckline. Thin orange/red inset line across front and up to shoulders. Long sleeves with inset orange/red panels along length of sleeves, with cording detailing and zipper closures at cuffs. Slit pockets just below waist. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of matching black wool. Street length. Possibly a replacement for the original skirt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1943~
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Three-piece suit consisting of green wool jacket, skirt and red striped jersey blouse. A) Jacket of green twill wool. Single breasted with notched collar in red twill wool on exterior of collar extending down interior of front opening. Three self covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Mock flap pockets at sides trimmed with matching self covered buttons and red undersides. Long, set in sleeves with split opening at cuff closed with single, self covered button and bound buttonhole and lined on underside in red. Lined in red silk crepe. Designer's label on inside right: "Traina-Norell / New York" B) Skirt in green twill wool. A line; below knee length. White grosgrain ribbon waistband. Left side zipper. Unlined. C) Blouse in green and red striped jersey. Long sleeves. Narrow, rounded collar banded in matching fabric. Left side opening at neckline with 5 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes on 1-inch band of self. Fitted. Partially lined at back neckline in off-yellow organdy.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Skirt suit of chocolate wool with velvet cuffs. A) Fitted jacket of chocolate wool in woven, checked pattern. Single breasted with 5 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar of brown velvet with self fabric lapels. Long sleeved with turn-up cuff of brown velvet and two small self covered buttons and bound buttonholes on each sleeve. Lined in brown taffeta. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell B) Skirt of chocolate wool in woven, checked pattern. Wide, flared A-line with 10 panel construction. 1 1/2" waistband with center back lapped zipper and hook & eye closure at waistband. Lined in brown taffeta.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1945
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Skirt-suit of navy blue wool. A) Jcket. Cropped, fitted jacket with v-neckline and center-front opening with 5 self-covered circular buttons with bound buttonholes and two hidden snaps. Long sleeves, each with two self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, and two hidden snaps. Lined in navy blue silk, and with internal shoulder pads. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Skirt. Street-length flared skirt of 10 gores, with narrow waistband, left side zipper with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. Lined in navy blue silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sling-Back Pumps

Sling-Back Pumps

Date: 1947/1949
Creator: Palter DeLiso (New York, New York, USA) (est. 1930's by Daniel Palter and Vincent De Liso, closed ca. 1975?)
Description: Pair of sling-back pumps of black calf leather. Shoes have a narrow platform and are open toe. Rounded throat on vamp, which is decorated with applied oval detailing in 3 layers. Center layer of black grosgrain, upper and lower layers of black leather. Oval cut-out in center of detail. Ankle-strap fastens with small rectangular black metal buckles. 3" black-lacquered French set-under heel similar to a spike form. Handwritten in side of each shoe: "6 1/2 B / r28514 / 1510-6BF" Stamped inside both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Capri / Last" Stamped in left shoe: "Palter DeLiso inc / New York City" Right shoe with inlaid woven cloth label: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit

Suit

Date: 1946
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert, 1903-1959
Description: Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit

Suit

Date: 1941/1945
Creator: Forstmann
Description: Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels. There are three labels in the coat: Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co." Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas" Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: unknown
Description: Toque hat of gray felt. The high, cylindrical crown of gray felt flares very slightly to the flat top, which is cut on a slant, and is higher at front than back. The top panel is inset, forming a "ridge" of the top edge. The lower edge is also on a slant, with inner band of same felt extending slightly below the crown. The inner band is cut to form a pointed arch at front. No brim. The hat is unlined, but has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co. / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1945
Creator: Gardner
Description: Hat of green velvet. The toque style hat is formed as a high, cylindrical crown of olive and light green velvet in a tiny checkerboard pattern. The entire crown, including flattened top, has a small green rhinestone set in each of the light green squares of the checkerboard. At the front of the hat is a bow of olive green velvet. The entire hat is overlaid with an olive green veil/netting. The hat is lined with green satin, and has an inner hatband of dark olive green grosgrain ribbon inside the base of the crown. Sewn to the inner hatband is manufacturer's label: "Paris / Gardner / New York". The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Turban

Turban

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Turban style hat of black and pink striped satin with stuffed stand up pleated pouf in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché Paris / 78 East 58th St. New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design