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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Decade: 1900-1909
 Year: 1900
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30073/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Channel-stitched. Corded brim that also stiffens and shapes bonnet. Long curtain of same. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87054/
Bonnet
Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87048/
Bonnet
Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277051/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots of black leather and wool broadcloth. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips. The lower part, including vamp, are of black leather. The upper part is of black wool broadcloth edged at scalloped top with black leather, and with black leather accent band running from heel partly up the back of the boot. The boots lace up along the front with 20 holes. Lined at top with reddish/orange fabric, the body of the shoe lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Stamped notation inside: "3 1/2 B R251" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39009/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with rounded pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front. The sole is of black leather. Shoes are lined in black leather and off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of black rubber(?) with molded grips. Manufacturer's mark molded into heel: "[Image of a walking man] / Healthway / USA". Stamped into sole: "Combination / Last" Handwritten notation on lining: "4/1/6 18261* / 51|23" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39027/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/silver lamé cloth. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 18 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. They are covered with the lamé fabric on the back and sides. The sole is of tan and brown leather, as is the cap on the heel. Shoes are lined in off-white cloth. Hand-written notation on inside lining, partly illegible: "37 / .... / 911" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39017/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black and tan leather. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather. The upper sections, of tan leather, close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black and tan leather. Stamped on sole: "TEDCO / Trade Mark" Stamped on lining: "435 72307 4" and "Tedco" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39018/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The medium height, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, tapering slightly to ground. The sole is of tan leather. The shoes are lined in off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of brown rubber(?) with molded marks. Maker's mark in sole: "Hamilton-Brown / Makers / [illeg] Molded into heel: "Cushion Comfort Heel 2" Stamped in lining: "450 24512H" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39014/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "H.Seligmann / Seguin, Tex." and "356 10146" Stamped on sole is a wreath containing an image of a shoe and label "Duchess". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39019/
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30207/
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment. The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/
Mourning Fan
Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38050/
Pumps
Pumps of gray suede. Shoes have a slightly rounded toe, and a wide strap across vamp to which is applied a large gray ribbon bow with central silver-colored metal rectangular buckle shape. Medium 1 3/4' high modified Louis or cuban heel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38993/
Riding Boots
Pair of lady's riding boots of black/dark brown leather. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips, the boots lace up along the back with 12 holes/hooks. Lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Hand-written note: "3-13 / 38405 / 413" Retailer's label stamped in gilt, mostly illegible: "Portland Ore" Brand stamped in gilt: "STEPINSHU / Trade Mark / Pat. Applied" Stamped in sole: "WICHERT" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39006/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black kid leather and broadcloth. The "high button shoes" have black leather toe boxes with pointed toes and black leather sections at heels which extend from heel up the back of the shoe. The uppers are of black wool broadcloth. Shoes secure at outside edges with 12 circular, slightly domed black buttons. Upper edges lined with black leather, the rest lined with white cloth. The medium-height heel is rounded at sides and back, and squared-off at front. Although not technically a "stacked" heel, the layers can be seen. Maker's label sewn into lining at top: "Wichert / Shoe / Trade Mark / New York U.S.A." Retailer's gilt stamp on inside edge: "Norton's / Gainesville, Tex." Handwritten notation inside boot, just below upper edge: "36-1 36752 / 330". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39008/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black leather. The shoes, designed as oxford style shoes with pointed toes, are of black leather which close along center front with laces, 6 holes high. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather. There are no marks or labels on the shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39020/
Shoes
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38995/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan calf leather and tan cloth (canvas?). The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Lower section of shoes are of tan leather, embellished with tiny holes along stitching lines and in scrolling motifs at toe-boxes. Upper parts of shoes are of heavy tan fabric, likely canvas. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "16 0 21632X" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38981/
Shoes
Pair of white satin ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white satin upper has tabs which extend across the instep to form closure. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas & Waco." Maker's code stamped inside: "35 - 2 36463" Stamped on sole: "35 - / 2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38988/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39157/