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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Year: 1940
Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan

Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan

Date: 1940/1960
Creator: unknown
Description: Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of: 1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. Wide band of red fabric lining inside of front panel at hem. Back of bodice formed of red cloth with vertical white stripes. Embroidered panels under arms. Back of skirt formed of upper panel of purple printed with blue and off-white flowers and leaves, heavily gathered into waistband. Lower panel of purple fabric, as full as upper panel. Black hem on back of skirt. 2. Headpiece of silver set with glass and plastic(?) rubies and emeralds, center plaque with glass segments simulating lapis and jade(?). Central circular plaque with central red circular glass "stone" surrounded by 6 alternating triangular green ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1940
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1940
Creator: Rentner, Maurice
Description: Evening dress of rose/pale pink/pale mauve crepe-back satin charmeuse. Inspired by Chinese Cheongsam-style garments, the dress is full-length, slim fitted, with slight standing collar fastened with hidden hook & loop. Sleeveless, the dress has front opening from throat to slightly below right shoulder, secured with three large rhinestone set circular brass(?) buttons. Very slightly raised waist with triangular "flap", open and hanging down from center front to right hip. From just below hip to center front at hem is secondary opening, with 7 buttons matching bodice. Hem slightly scalloped at front overlap corners, and at right side. Left side underarm zipper. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside bodice: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Maurice Rentner" With tie belt of same fabric, 3/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Halo Hat

Halo Hat

Date: [1940..1945]
Creator: unknown
Description: Pamela or halo style hat of natural colored straw cloth. Crown ringed with brown silk organza roses. Edge of brim covered with natural colored grosgrain. One hatpin with black, teardrop shaped head. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Henrys / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Cahn, Bernie A.
Description: Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk. Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940
Creator: Lydia
Description: Hat of cream and gray striped fabric. Low, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At back of crown is band of vertically pleated band of same fabric, which extends to edge of brim. Narrow asymmetrical brim, wider in front. At back of brim is cream bow of thick velvet "string" with trailing ends. Underside of brim lined in cream velvet which extends up to edge the brim. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Lydia / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940~
Creator: Smith, Helen
Description: Hat of black felt. Styled somewhat as a fez, the hat has a slightly conical crown with flattened top. At back are two segments of black silk braid/knotwork. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Original / Helen Smith / Marshall Field Annex - Chicago"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of black silk taffeta. Wide, quilted brim. Crown formed of loops of tubing in same material attached to brim, knotted at top with ends trailing off back.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940~
Creator: Frank, Nat
Description: Hat of fine mauve straw and artificial flowers. Designed as a "boater", the low cylindrical crown is of woven fine mauve straw with a slightly sunken, inset flat top. Around the base of the crown is a wreath of artificial flowers, including red roses, and small blossoms in pale green and mauve, which is tied at back with a thin green velvet ribbon bow with trailing ends. From below the wreath extends a net mesh veil, which covers the narrow, flat brim, and hangs down. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Nat Frank / New York" Size label: "22"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940
Creator: Gladys & Belle
Description: Beret style hat of navy and white woven straw. Ribbon flower hangs off side of hat with small flag of orange grosgrain ribbon on top of stem. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon with extension at back of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York" Retailer's label at inside headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design