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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 State: Texas
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Calotte
Hat of purple felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat consists of a domed crown of purple felt, which extends down on the right side. Tied horizontally around the front of the crown is a wide band of purple taffeta, which passes through slits on the sides of the crown, and emerges towards the back of the right side, tied to become a large "pouf". The hat is lined in purple satin. Maker's label sewn into lining of hat: "Edna Mye / Dallas". The hat is accompanied by two short hatpins, the heads covered with purple felt that matches the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39184/
Calotte
Calotte of off-white satin. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low domed crown is covered with smooth off-white satin at front, ending in scalloped edges along front and sides with thin self piped edge with loops at upper points of the scallops; at rear, the hat has the same off-white satin folded, draped, and pleated, with a straight edge along the base. Interior of hat partly lined at front with an off-white damask/brocade fabric, the rest showing the net under-structure of the hat. Accompanied by two hatpins with oval heads covered with matching off-white satin. Maker's label inside: "Edna Mye / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286930/
Calotte
Hat of beige netting. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with low, domed crown made of layers of beige net ruffles, with hemmed edges. Designer's label inside: "Florence ... / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114795/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of black felt with brown mink trim around front and sides. Quilted crown. Black grosgrain inner hatband; unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "The Fair / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114945/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of gold lamé fabric. Hat could also be called a modified turban. Upturned brim with large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones as trim. Same trim of large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones on right side of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" Designer's label on inside headband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114971/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of maroon straw trimmed with grosgrain ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114737/
Calotte Hat
Oval, calotte style hat of faded rose tucked satin with fabric flowers and petals in matching color. Flower at front of hat trimmed with small satin bow at center. Retailer's label on inside back headband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114993/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of natural colored straw. Brim is wider in front than on back. Trimmed with hatband of wide, black grosgrain ribbon that forms bow in back. Edge of brim trimmed in black grosgrain. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label number 852534 to left of retailer's label on inside hatband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114902/
Cloche
Hat of cotton batik. Styled as a cloche-form turban, the domed crown is constructed of gathered/pleated and wrapped cotton fabric with batik design in beige/brown and blue on white ground. There is no brim. The hat is lined in cream satin, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39089/
Cloche
Hat of black velvet styled as a cloche. Domed crown with some seaming and "wrinkles" has very small brim of same fabric, with black velvet bow at back as trim. Lined in cream fabric. Retailer's label inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39078/
Coat
Coat of black wool and chinchilla fur. The full-length black wool coat is tailored to fit at waist and flares out at skirt. Long sleeves, and center front opening with 8 circular buttons covered with same black cloth, and 3 hook-and-loops spaced along the opening. The coat has a Peter Pan collar of brown and taupe striped fur identified as chinchilla. From the hips down to the hem is trimmed with matching fur, arranged so the stripes run horizontally around the skirt of the coat. The coat is fully lined in black cloth. Single retailer's label at inside back of collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30101/
Coat Dress
Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket. Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original" Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949" Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas" Belt of matching navy leather. Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283699/
Derby Hat
Hat in derby style of navy felt. Edge of crown trimmed in wide bands of navy, gray and red yarn with very narrow gold thread knots tied to tasseled ends of yarn bands. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker/retailer's label: "A / Neiman / Marcus / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305382/
Dinner Dress
Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330492/
Ensemble
Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of: A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels. B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk. Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie" National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283689/
Halo Hat
Pamela or halo style hat of natural colored straw cloth. Crown ringed with brown silk organza roses. Edge of brim covered with natural colored grosgrain. One hatpin with black, teardrop shaped head. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114900/
Hat
Hat of pink straw. The open crown is of woven pink straw, as is the wide oval brim. At the front of the hat is a cluster of artificial flowers in pink velvet and green fabric. The hat is unlined, with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown - one band pink, the other of cream. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" Accompanied by a single short hatpin with a tan straw woven head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39162/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. Styled similarly to a fedora, the hat has a high cylindrical crown with the top of the crown sunken in slightly. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at side. The medium-width brim slants down slightly at front, and turns up slightly at back. Hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Norma's / Creations / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39166/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled as a tricorne, the crown is of black felt, flattened at top. The wide brim is set off-center to the crown, with more of the brim at sides and front than back. The brim is curled up and in at sides and back, forming a triangular shape, with point at the front. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon along inside bottom edge of crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Jacqueline / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39081/
Hat
Lady's gray felt hat. Styled along the lines of a fedora, the gray felt crown is basically cylindrical with dished top and some shaping to provide a front "prow". Set at top edge of crown at back is a bow of matching gray felt ribbon. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of matching grosgrain ribbon as hatband. The shallow brim is set off-center, wider at front and sides than back. Brim curves down. Inside of hat is unlined, but has inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon. Maker's stamp on inner hatband: [Coat of arms] Stetson / Fifth Avenue" Retailer's stamp on inner hatband: "W. A. Green Co. / Dallas, Tex." Size tag sewn to inner hatband: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39102/
Hat
Hat of brown felt. The "safari-style" hat has a domed crown of brown felt, around the base of which is tied a thin band of matching felt, with bow and trailing ends at front. The brim, of matching felt, slopes downwards at front and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". Accompanied by one short hatpin with simulated black tear-drop pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39229/
Hat
Hat of ultramarine blue felt. Based on a top hat, the cylindrical high crown has an undulating upper edge. Small brim curls up at front and sides, but curls down at back, ending in a point. Around base of crown is wide blue grosgrain ribbon which trails off back of hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. A thin black elastic strap goes around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn into inner band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114797/
Hat
Hat of purple felt. The low, circular crown is mostly flattened, with a slightly undulating surface. Around the crown is a wide band of turquoise crushed silk jersey held in place by crossing bands of fuchsia pink and dark blue purple yarn. The wide, flat oval brim is set just slightly off-center to the crown, giving a wider brim in front than back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of purple blue grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas". This hat was designed to be worn with a skirt suit of Mexican homespun cotton designed by Adrian, accession number 1967.002.003. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39127/
Hat
Hat made of white stitched, quilted cotton. Crownless. Hat constructed of circular piece with tucks at left and right back. Interior wire support covered with matching grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286927/
Hat
Hat of deep green felt in modified alpine style. High crown with 2 bows of self as trim. Folded brim around front and sides of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with green grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lorie" Retailer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." Size tag: "registered model / 22 1/2" Paper price tag: "53-4 / 20.00" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39091/
Hat
Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk. Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277011/
Hat
Hat of multi-colored woven wool stripes. Designed somewhat as a toque, the hat has a cylindrical crown, tilted back, with flattened, recessed top and no brim. The fabric of the hat has alternating stripes of white, dark red, red, pink, dark blue, light blue, and gray, with the stripes arranged to form chevrons. lined in thin black fabric, with underlayer of medium gray. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86976/
Hat
Hat of tan/light brown felt. The hat is somewhat in the style of a cloche, with an irregular "partly delfated" crown. At front is a small section of brim which turns up and extends vertically. At back of hat is a small vertical band of same material, with pointed ends. Designer's label inside: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39093/
Hat
Hat of cream and gray striped fabric. Low, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At back of crown is band of vertically pleated band of same fabric, which extends to edge of brim. Narrow asymmetrical brim, wider in front. At back of brim is cream bow of thick velvet "string" with trailing ends. Underside of brim lined in cream velvet which extends up to edge the brim. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Lydia / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87046/
Hat
Hat of pale tan straw. The hat is formed as a domed crown, trimmed at lower edge with pale tan grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Inner label: "Jacqueline / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114798/
Hat
Hat of black and white shiny braided straw. Petite boater-like with low, slightly rounded crown. Thin red felt/velveteen (?) ribbon around hatband ties on side to hold up plume-like decoration made of black and white straw material. Plume is styled in the shape of a flower with two red beads in center. Netting material hangs from left and right sides with red velveteen fabric covering ends. Left and right cloth hooks on inside of headband. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Fedway". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115002/
Hat
Beret style cap of off-white silk noil. Crown is of pieced construction with topstitching on all seams. Headband of same with rows of horizontal topstitching. Inner headband of light green colored grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside headband at back: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114800/
Hat
Hat of tan felt. Style resembles a garrison cap. Inner headband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Maker's label on inside headband: "Jacqueline / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114801/
Hat
Hat of black crocheted yarn and buttons. The hat is formed as a open-crown crochet cap. At sides are large diamond-shaped areas which are covered with large black circular faceted buttons. Unlined. Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114743/
Hat
Hat of tan straw. The low, domed crown is of a basket-weave of straw with inter-woven plaits of straw, giving scallop or scale textures. Around the base of the crown, running along the sides and front, are clusters of artificial grapes and leaves. The narrow straw brim "waves" around the crown, undulating up and down. Unlined, with tan grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114791/
Hat
Beret style hat of navy and white woven straw. Ribbon flower hangs off side of hat with small flag of orange grosgrain ribbon on top of stem. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon with extension at back of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York" Retailer's label at inside headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87047/
Hat
Hat of natural straw in boater style, with tiny brim and very shallow crown. Ochre velvet ribbon as trim around crown; wine colored small flowers on back where ribbon ends in bow; tan netting covers crown. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Irene / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband next to designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114829/
Hat
Hat of off white lace. Domed crown. Wide, floppy brim with 2 pink flowers and leaves as trim with one matching flower under brim. Brim is gathered to crown in front. Lined in cream colored net with ivory grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's (retailer's?) label on inside headband at back: "Henrys / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39075/
Hat
Hat of acid green crushed jersey knit. Turban-style effect with 3 poufs on top of crown. Lined in brown fabric with green grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114796/
Hat
Hat of black felt with high crown. Black jersey used as hatband in front; passes through slits at base of crown and loops under chin. Asymmetrical brim is wider and dips slightly in front and narrows and flips up in back. Unlined with cream colored silk inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's stamp on inside headband: "Knox / Fifth Ave. New York" Retailer's stamp on inside headband: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas, Texas" Size/style number label under inside headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39080/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. Formed as Juliet cap, the hatlet has a crown of black velvet formed as a stiff low dome with shaped edge creating triangular points at front, back, and each side. At each side of the crown is an applied matching velvet bow with trailing ends. The hat is overlaid with black netting, with small black plastic circles worked into the veil's mesh. The hat is lined in blue cloth, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39183/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of reddish brown straw. Low, cylindrical, slightly tilted crown is flattened at top and encircled at base by wide gray grosgrain ribbon which divides into three tiers of streamers cascading at back. Wide floppy brim. Reddish brown inner grosgrain ribbon hatband and black elastic cord to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / INC." Retailer's label at inner hatband: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277133/
Pillbox Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87088/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of navy wool with white pinstripes consisting of: A) Jacket of navy and white pinstripe wool. Double breasted with 4 circular navy blue buttons and covered buttonholes. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Padded shoulders. Horizontal, double welt pockets covered with flap at front left and right. Lined in navy silk. Designer's label at back neckline: "Hattie Carnegie" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label at right inside seam. b) White crepe blouse - not shown in photographs. c) Skirt of navy wool. Slight A-line. Street length. Unlined. Label at hem: "Spring 1946 / Hattie Carnegie / Size 10" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283666/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black silk faille. The two-piece skirt consists of a jacket and skirt. The jacket is of mid-hip length, with shawl collar, long sleeves, and center-front opening which secures with three circular buttons covered with black faille and embroidered with a stylized "M" or Scorpio symbol. At upper front collarbone area are two applied strips of black faille which form "tabs", and there are similar sewn-in patches of same. Front hip pocket, and another "tab" on other hip. The skirt is street length, with similar patches and tabs. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283761/
Skirt Suit
Suit of tan heather wool. Suit consists of two pieces: A) Jacket, pointed collar, notched lapels, single breasted, long sleeves, cut formed of diagonal piecing, lined in tan silk crepe. B: Skirt, four gored, kick pleat at CF hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283725/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of navy blue wool twill consisting of: A) Hip-length jacket with full length tailored sleeves. Collarless neckline which raises 3/4". Single breasted with 3 tortoise buttons and slim bound button holes. Bib-shaped yoke insert with two almost vertical faux pocket flaps. Mid-arm design seams comes to inner top of lower hacking pocket flaps. Hacking pockets have vertical and slim bound buttons holes with one tortoise button for right flap and one turquoise button for left flap. Back inverted triangular yoke starts from shoulders with point ended at center back waist. Tailored sleeve split into upper and under sleeve, with two darts at elbow on under sleeve. Fully lined in (now) indigo crepe silk. B) Skirt, pencil with seams at center front and back and both sides. 1 1/2" waist band with triangular tip comes to a lapped zipper on left side and 4 sets of hooks and one snap for closure. Two 2" darts on front and two 4" darts on back. 2" simple vent at CF hem, hem has been let down from original length by ~2", using 2" cotton bias tape. Skirt is unlined with pinked cut edges to finish seam inside. Labels: Designer's label: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" Retailer's label: "The Fashion / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283767/
Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of sling-back pumps of black calf leather. Shoes have a narrow platform and are open toe. Rounded throat on vamp, which is decorated with applied oval detailing in 3 layers. Center layer of black grosgrain, upper and lower layers of black leather. Oval cut-out in center of detail. Ankle-strap fastens with small rectangular black metal buckles. 3" black-lacquered French set-under heel similar to a spike form. Handwritten in side of each shoe: "6 1/2 B / r28514 / 1510-6BF" Stamped inside both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Capri / Last" Stamped in left shoe: "Palter DeLiso inc / New York City" Right shoe with inlaid woven cloth label: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114988/
Suit
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30093/
Suit
Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels. There are three labels in the coat: Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co." Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas" Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30048/
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