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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 State: New York
 State: Texas
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: [1940..1945]
Creator: Victor, Sally
Description: Calotte style hat of gold lamé fabric. Hat could also be called a modified turban. Upturned brim with large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones as trim. Same trim of large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones on right side of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" Designer's label on inside headband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cartwheel Hat

Cartwheel Hat

Date: 1945?
Creator: unknown
Description: Cartwheel hat of natural colored straw. Brim is wider in front than on back. Trimmed with hatband of wide, black grosgrain ribbon that forms bow in back. Edge of brim trimmed in black grosgrain. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label number 852534 to left of retailer's label on inside hatband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime coat of camel brown/tan wool. Street-length or longer, with rounded shawl collar. Double breasted with 6 large circular black silk faille-covered buttons in two vertical rows of 3 each; bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two small circular black plastic buttons inside. Two slit. Double welt pockets at sides. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs showing black silk faille lining. The coat is lined in black silk, with wide bands of black silk faille at cuffs, collar, and sides of opening. Combined retailer's and designer's label at inside back neck: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat Dress

Coat Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket. Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original" Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949" Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas" Belt of matching navy leather. Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: A) Cocktail dress of blue silk satin. Sleeveless with spaghetti straps of same. Set-in waist which scallops at bottom hem and attaches to panels of full skirt. Tea length. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in black tulle. Combined retailer/designer label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same with rectangular, self covered buckle. 1/2 inch wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble

Cocktail Ensemble

Date: 1944
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail ensemble consisting of: A) Blouse of fuchsia wool jersey with long sleeves, banded neckline with placket down the center back, and 5 self-covered circular buttons. B) Skirt of black silk brocade, Dirndl style, below knee length, with center back opening having a zipper and 2 hook&eyes on waistband. Unlined. C) Belt of matching black silk brocade with matching fuchsia wool jersey on reverse. Square self-covered buckle. 2" wide. The blouse and belt with no labels or stamps. The skirt with combined Designer/Retailer label at side seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined. Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Daytime Dress

Daytime Dress

Date: 1944
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime dress in modified shirtwaist/sheath style of black jersey wool. Sleeveless with padded shoulders and wide, notched collar. Street length. Center front opening with 6 large, clear, modified emerald cut rhinestone buttons and bound buttonholes. One-inch wide self fabric tie belt attached at sides. Small patch pockets at sides, below waist. Unlined. Combined retailer/designer's label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dinner Dress

Dinner Dress

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Brown print silk dress with belt and umbrella. A) Full-length silk dress printed with brown/white/black over-all pattern of large leaves or pinecones on stems. Wide, shallow neckline. Side zipper. Sleeveless, with sleeves edged with cut-out leaf shapes from the print. Hem with same treatment. A-line skirt. Unlined. Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same fabric, backed in cream leather, with rectangular, fabric-covered buckle. C) Umbrella. Not pictured.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1948
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of: A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels. B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk. Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie" National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Date: 1946
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Ensemble of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. A) Dress of blue heathered wool herringbone knit with bodice of black jersey knit. Short sleeves. 1 1/2" wide mandarin collar. Center back zipper closure with self-covered button and buttonhole on collar at back. Skirt is street length with slight A-line. Unlined skirt. No labels in dress. B) Fitted jacket of of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. Long sleeves with cuffs of black Persian lamb. V-neckline trimmed in black Persian lamb. Left side closure with two circular black metal buttons at shoulder and four matching button on left side seam. Lined in black silk crepe. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline of jacket: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: Autumn 1944
Creator: Copeland, Jo
Description: Evening dress of wine-colored hammered rayon satin. Wide, bateau neckline trimmed with wine colored ostrich feathers, sequins and bows of matching fabric. Short sleeves. Street length. Ruching at center front of bodice and at center back seam below waist. Left side zipper. Unlined; shoulder pads. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" With matching tie belt, 1 1/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940
Creator: Lydia
Description: Hat of cream and gray striped fabric. Low, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At back of crown is band of vertically pleated band of same fabric, which extends to edge of brim. Narrow asymmetrical brim, wider in front. At back of brim is cream bow of thick velvet "string" with trailing ends. Underside of brim lined in cream velvet which extends up to edge the brim. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Lydia / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940
Creator: Gladys & Belle
Description: Beret style hat of navy and white woven straw. Ribbon flower hangs off side of hat with small flag of orange grosgrain ribbon on top of stem. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon with extension at back of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York" Retailer's label at inside headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Florell, Walter, ca. 1911-1986
Description: Hat of ultramarine blue felt. Based on a top hat, the cylindrical high crown has an undulating upper edge. Small brim curls up at front and sides, but curls down at back, ending in a point. Around base of crown is wide blue grosgrain ribbon which trails off back of hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. A thin black elastic strap goes around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn into inner band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1949
Creator: John B. Stetson Company
Description: Lady's gray felt hat. Styled along the lines of a fedora, the gray felt crown is basically cylindrical with dished top and some shaping to provide a front "prow". Set at top edge of crown at back is a bow of matching gray felt ribbon. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of matching grosgrain ribbon as hatband. The shallow brim is set off-center, wider at front and sides than back. Brim curves down. Inside of hat is unlined, but has inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon. Maker's stamp on inner hatband: [Coat of arms] Stetson / Fifth Avenue" Retailer's stamp on inner hatband: "W. A. Green Co. / Dallas, Tex." Size tag sewn to inner hatband: "22 1/2"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940
Creator: Lorie, Edgar J.
Description: Hat of deep green felt in modified alpine style. High crown with 2 bows of self as trim. Folded brim around front and sides of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with green grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lorie" Retailer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." Size tag: "registered model / 22 1/2" Paper price tag: "53-4 / 20.00"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Knox
Description: Hat of black felt with high crown. Black jersey used as hatband in front; passes through slits at base of crown and loops under chin. Asymmetrical brim is wider and dips slightly in front and narrows and flips up in back. Unlined with cream colored silk inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's stamp on inside headband: "Knox / Fifth Ave. New York" Retailer's stamp on inside headband: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas, Texas" Size/style number label under inside headband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of dark pink/mauve velvet. The low, domed crown is covered with large overlapping "petal" shapes of velvet arranged like scales, and has a large velvet rose/flower form at front of the same velvet petals. Lined in black fabric, and with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Sanger Bros / Dallas Texas"; and origin/size label: "New York / Creation / 22"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1947
Creator: Irene
Description: Hat of natural straw in boater style, with tiny brim and very shallow crown. Ochre velvet ribbon as trim around crown; wine colored small flowers on back where ribbon ends in bow; tan netting covers crown. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Irene / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband next to designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Petticoat

Petticoat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Petticoat of maroon taffeta with two tiers of 1-3/4" black horsehair braid. One inch waistband. Center back opening closed with hook & eyes. Two curved panels at hips are gathered at the hem. Unlined, with 3-1/2" band of black stiffened net at interior hem line. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1940~
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Picture hat of reddish brown straw. Low, cylindrical, slightly tilted crown is flattened at top and encircled at base by wide gray grosgrain ribbon which divides into three tiers of streamers cascading at back. Wide floppy brim. Reddish brown inner grosgrain ribbon hatband and black elastic cord to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / INC." Retailer's label at inner hatband: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1940
Creator: Delman
Description: Pumps of dark brown suede and brown alligator. Designed with a rounded toe, the uppers are of dark brown suede with toe-cap and heels of brown alligator. The modified Cuban heel is covered with brown alligator. Designer's stamp in left shoe: "Delman / Made entirely by hand" Retailer's stamp in right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Handwritten note in each shoe: "2P67046 54 / 8a"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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