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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Decade: 1910-1919
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat

Hat

Date: 1910/1914
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of black velvet. Designed as a modified sailor's hat, with a shallow cylindrical black velvet crown with slightly domed top. The wide, flat, black velvet-covered brim has an inner wire form, visible where velvet has been damaged. At side of crown is a spray of black/green cock feathers with a black velvet ribbon bow. The underside of the brim is covered in black velvet, while the crown is lined in black satin. There are no labels in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of plum colored velvet. Designed as a modified cloche, the low domed crown consists of two layers, "puffed" out and shirred to create gathers and folds. Between the layers is a band of ribbon trim with purple/plum dyed ostrich plumes, which form a "fringe" around the hat. The lower "puff" acts as brim. Lined in black fabric. There are no maker's, designer's, or retailer's labels or marks in the piece.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1912/1918
Creator: Dagnet, J.
Description: Hat of velvet and golden weave cloth. The domed crown is covered in a woven golden cloth shot through with metallic threads. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband of a similar fabric in the form of a dense ribbon, forming a large bow at front. Set in behind the bow is a semi-circular fan spray of fine white feathers. The wide, circular, slightly floppy brim is of black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue/black satin material. Maker's label stamped in gold on inner lining of crown: "Mme. J. Dagnet / French Millinery / 206 St. Paul St. / Dallas.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
High Button Shoes

High Button Shoes

Date: 1914
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black suede. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are embellished with subtle rows of perforations and stitching. Each boot closes along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Hand-written notation inside on lining: "270 85434"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
High Button Shoes

High Button Shoes

Date: 1914
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Stamped on lining: "350 760 / 3027 [monogram]"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Infant's Dress

Infant's Dress

Date: 1913
Creator: Torrance, Mary Sleeper
Description: Infant's dress of white cotton batiste with lace surrounds. Full length with short, puffed sleeves. High waist gathers at yoke. Yoke and sleeves trimmed in lace. Yoke is constructed of cut-out pieces and is embroidered in white vine and floral design. Hem has five rows of pin tucks above a 2-1/2" ruffle trimmed in satin-stitched dots along the bottom. Center back opening with two tiny mother-of-pearl buttons; third, top button is missing. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Infant's Ensemble (Dress and Slip)

Infant's Ensemble (Dress and Slip)

Date: 1910~
Creator: unknown
Description: Infant's ensemble of fine white persian lawn consisting of: A) Infant's dress of white batiste cotton. Full length dress gathers into square yoke with narrow, vertical rows of fine eyelet and hair pin lace. Two rows of pin tucking separated by two rows of eyelet and hair pin lace matching yoke at bottom with 2-1/2" ruffle of scalloped eyelet lace at hem. Round neckline trimmed in lace. Long sleeves with lace at hem; center back opening. B) Slip of white batiste cotton. Neckline and armholes trimmed in lace. Full length. Narrow row of pin tucks and row of eyelet and hair pin lace matching dress with matching ruffle of scalloped, eyelet at hem. Closure of mother-of-pearl buttons at shoulders. No labels in garment.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1910/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Picture hat of violet silk over straw body. The low, domed crown is surrounded by a wide brim, and overlaid by two wide, dyed violet ostrich feathers. The underside of the brim the lighter colored violet woven straw body of the hat. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has an attached cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Sanger Bros / Dallas and Waco / Texas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1910
Creator: Kelley, Mae
Description: Picture hat of black velvet with domed crown and wide brim edged in black satin. Hatband of pleated black satin. Bright green ostrich feathers on left side of crown. Lined in pink fabric. Designer's label: "Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif." Retailer's label: "Yvonne / Hats / California"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1915
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of woman's white kid pumps. Designed as modified Oxford style shoes with slightly pointed toes, the white kid uppers are decorated with rows of circular holes along toe-cap, sides of vamp, sides of shoe, and heel. The shoes lace up at center front along instep, 3 holes high. The medium-high heels are curved around sides and back, covered with same leather. Front of heel cut straight across, covered with light tan leather. Stamped inside shoe: "Brooklyn Hand Turns / 'Aristocrat' / 51 - Last". Embroidered label inside shoe: "Paul's / Aristocrats / Hand Made / Turn-Sole".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1919
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of pumps of black leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toe and plain leather upper. The 2" heel is of modified Louis style, covered with black leather and flaring at base. Retailer label: "Sanger Brothers / Dallas - Waco"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Purse

Purse

Date: 1910/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Purse. Ornate bell-shaped silver (plated?) frame with openwork latticework set with red and blue cabochons and with silver (plated?) chain. Body of purse is of crocheted gray with vertical stripes of horizontal rows of faceted blue beads. Bottom of bag with fringe formed of loops of matching beading. Lined in gray satin with roses and vine trim.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Purse

Purse

Date: 1910/1915
Creator: unknown
Description: Purse / Handbag for afternoon use. Rectangular plain polished gunmetal / steel frame with ball/snap closure and matching chain of elongated links. Body of purse formed of gunmetal / steel mesh, with linked chain latticework along bottom edge, terminating in small spheres. Purse of gunmetal mesh, suitable for afternoon use. Inside of frame is engraved "Bessie H. Brown" and "Dallas Texas 4205 Swiss Avenue"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Purse

Purse

Date: 1910/1919
Creator: Whiting & Davis Co.
Description: Silver mesh purse with cathedral arch frame etched with scroll filigree. Ball and socket clasp. Ball finials at each corner of tri-corner bottom. Mesh band handle with slide adjustment stamped with a four petal flower. Interior of frame stamped: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis / Bags" and "Sterling"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoe

Shoe

Date: 1916?
Creator: unknown
Description: Single shoe of tan damask weave cloth and black leather. Shoe designed with pointed toe, the toebox and heel of black leather, the rest of the upper in textured tan cloth. Across instep is wide strap with flaring ends to which is applied an ornate cut/stamped steel simulated buckle. Strap secures with buttons. Modified stacked Louis heel. Stamped inside: "The H&S. Pogue Co. / Cincinnati"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1915
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of black peau de soie heeled shoes. Slightly pointed rounded toe, with an oval openwork area at the throat of the vamp which simulates a buckle. These "buckles" are set with simulated black jet and cut steel beads. The 2 3/8" modified French heel is covered in black peau de soie. Marked on leather sole: "VOLK"; Stamped inside right shoe: "VOLK / DALLAS"; Notation inside each shoe: "172 / 5931 / 2355"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1910?
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of modified Oxford-style shoes of brown leather. Lace-up at front, with six holes per side, with brown laces. Stitched detail on vamp and sides. Low 1" stacked heel, modified Louis or cuban style. Maker's label stamped inside: "Pace & Levy / Terrell, Tex" Illegible marks written inside shoes.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of woman's shoes of black leather and black suede. The black leather toe sections of the shoes are designed with gently rounded points. The back part of the shoes, and the single strap across the instep, are of black suede. Each of the straps secure with two circular iridescent black buttons. Shoes are lined in tan cloth inside toes, black leather insoles, and black fabric inside heels. Soles of black and tan leather. Medium heel of modified French style, with rounded sides and back, and slightly curving inner side. Stamped in gilt on insole: "Bench / Volk's / Made". Hand-written notation inside shoes: "6C / 18638 / 29"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1917/1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of dark brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. Embellished at toe with cut steel beads forming interlacing bands and lines. Medium height heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to center and then flaring out again at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in black leather and off-white fabric. Retailer's(?) stamp inside, partly illegible: "Famous / Paris, Tex." Hand-written notation on lining: "38-1 80364" Sold by Famous Shoe Store, Paris Texas (est. 1891). Worn by Kennie Holt Rucker in 1917-1918. Donated by Mary Helen Rucker to the Historical Collection (North Texas State University,Denton, Tex.). Transferred to the Texas Fashion Collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1914
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of woman's white canvas shoes. Designed with slightly pointed toes and a rounded edge at the vamp, the shoes have a single strap across the instep secured with a circular glass button with steel(?) shank. Thick canvas-covered heel shaped as a modified Cuban heel, rounded at sides and back, curved at front, and tapering slightly to base. Sole of leather, originally white/pale, worn to brown. No designer's or retailer's labels. Stamped inside of each: "455 .199 59 [star] / D8083 82566"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of blue cotton with white lace trim. The brim is slightly square-shaped and heavily starched. The top of the crown is stitched to the brim in a flat seam, with fullness created in the lower crown through a set of 3 snaps on each side which fasten the crown to the brim, giving the lower crown a crenelated shape. The bonnet has no tail, and has self-fabric chin ties of blue ribbon. The left tie is formed from two pieces of fabric pieced together, while the right tie is of a single length of fabric. The ties are narrow hemmed, except for one side of a lower section of left tie, which is cut along the selvage and left unfinished. There are no labels or marks in the piece. The fact that this bonnet does not have a tail probably indicates that this was a visiting bonnet rather than a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1915/1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Toque of black velvet. The circular crown is of black velvet, gathered at top and crafted to create wrinkles. Brim at sides and front folds up to form "visor" at front of crown, on which are artificial berries, flowers, and leaves. Hat is lined with black satin. Maker's mark stamped inside crown, partly faded/worn: Perry Hat Shoppe / Perry, NY."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Walking Shoes

Walking Shoes

Date: 1918
Creator: Foot-Schulze & Co. (St. Paul, Minnesota, USA)
Description: Walking shoes of tan and black leather. The rounded toe and vamp are of black polished leather, the heel and sides of tan kid leather. A single strap across the instep fastens with two circular buttons out outer side of shoe. Decorative black stitching around edges and across strap on tan leather. Insole of light brown leather, and the insides of the sides are lined in tan leather. heavy low stacked heel. Sole of black leather with heavy applied rubber heel. Maker's label stamped in silver on insole: "Foot Schulze & Co / St., Paul" Stamped notation on lining: "455 29100" Molded into bottom of heel: "WAUK LITE" and "8"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Slippers

Wedding Slippers

Date: 1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Wedding slippers of ivory silk. Shoes have somewhat pointed toes, and ivory silk rosette at top of vamp. 2" high heels, tapering slightly to base, rounded at sides and back, curved at front. Retailer's stamp inside: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas Texas" Partly illegible handwritten numbers inside shoe.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design