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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. Main section of hatlet formed as a black velvet skullcap, with large black velvet bow in front with 7 large stiff black velvet loops at each side. Interior lined in black mesh and edged with black grosgrain ribbon. At either side is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mrs. R.I. Ross, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38104/
Hatlet
Hatlet of white plastic/vinyl tubing. Hatlet formed as an openwork ring with overlapping/crossing ends. Applied to the ring are three large bows made of the same tubing, set so that the trailing ribbons point upwards. Ring is lined in stiff white mesh and edged with a thin band of off-white velvet. At either side is attached a small plastic comb to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. Ann Lee Ross. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38106/
Hatlet
Hatlet of stiffened black velvet embroidered floral/foliate appliques. Roughly triangular, the appliques have net openwork areas and beaded stamens for the blossoms, and are covered with black veiling. Inside the crown, there are two small brown plastic combs on right and left side to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of H.B. Curry, Jr., through his daughter Nancy C. Bavor. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38103/
Hatlet
Hatlet of deep red satin. The close, curved crown is formed as a band that is worn across the wearer's head from ear to ear. The band is edged with a wide band of narrow pleated deep red satin, with ends that extend beyond the crown, forming crossed ends at sides. Lined in the same deep red satin, and with a deep red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Amy New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286946/
Hatlet
Hatlet of stiffened white mesh covered with artificial flowers. The low, domed crown is based on a form of stiffened white mesh which is completely covered by small artificial flowers in shades of very pale mauve/purple, almost taupe, and green leaves and stems. The hat is unlined, and has a light brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's Label: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286788/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue ribbed fabric. The hatlet is formed of plated fabric, layered and curved around to form the low crown. At front is a bow of same grosgrain-type fabric. With navy blue net veiling. Retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" With Union Label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286778/
Hatlet
Hatlet of brown felt. Low domed crown of the hat is encircled by a wreath of artificial velvet roses and brown ostrich feathers, overlaid with brown net veiling. The hat is unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband, and black cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Suzy Lee / Made in / California" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283743/
Hatlet
Hatlet of silver silk embellished all over with silver bugle beads. Beige veil. Lined in light rose colored fabric with rose colored grosgrain ribbon headband. Two combs attached to grosgrain ribbon at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283762/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. The headpiece is formed as a stiffened black velvet band which has a large black velvet bow at each end. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286833/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. The low, domed crown is edged with a stiffened coil of the same fabric, with a straight piece of same across the front. Lined in a black satin, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and a small plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Kay & Guy / Anderson / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305417/
Hatlet
Hatlet of brown velvet trimmed with brown fabric covered brads. Brads are circular with hole in center. Unlined with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305413/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue faille(?). The open-crown hatlet is formed of a circle of overlapping bows/gathers of fabric, overlaid with a fine mesh veil of navy blue. The hat is lined in a darker blue fabric, which just shows along some edges. Designer's label: "Caprice / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305364/
Hatlet
Hatlet of white silk. Split top crown forms two petals to each side. Top, center of crown has one big white silk gardenia(?)flower with two green leaves on either side. Three smaller leaves at center back. White veil drapes from crown around sides and front. Pink fabric covers intricate inner frame. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305373/
Hatlet
Hatlet of fine woven dark blue straw. Low, flattened crown is in the form of a "pancake" hat, with a dark blue velvet bow at front and a small dark blue velvet "button" at back. Designer's label: "Sally V / Designed by Sally Victor" Retailer's label: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305346/
Hatlet
Hat of pale pink fine straw. The low, rounded crown is of woven fine pale pink straw with gold edging. At front of hat are two "petal" shapes emerging from the upper part of the crown and extending forward and down at the front of the hat. The shapes are of the same woven straw, edged in pink satin. The hat has a veil of fine pink netting, now partly perished. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of pink grosgrain ribbon around inside base of the crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Volk". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39096/
Hatlet
Hatlet of burgundy fabric covered with artificial flowers. The hatlet is formed as an oval of stiffened burgundy fabric intended to be worn across the top of the head. The hatlet is almost entirely covered with artificial flowers of velvets, silk, and other fabrics. The flowers are primarily in pinks/purples/reds, with green stems and leaves. The hat is lined in black satin and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is very large, extending across the full width of the inside of the hatlet, the word "Paris" partly obscured by the grosgrain ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39178/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. Formed as Juliet cap, the hatlet has a crown of black velvet formed as a stiff low dome with shaped edge creating triangular points at front, back, and each side. At each side of the crown is an applied matching velvet bow with trailing ends. The hat is overlaid with black netting, with small black plastic circles worked into the veil's mesh. The hat is lined in blue cloth, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39183/
Hatlet
Hatlet of beaded velvet. The small, circular, slightly domed hatlet is of off-white velvet with printed scrolls and curves in greens, browns and blues. Over the surface of the hat are various beaded and sequined motifs and strings of beads. Across the back is a wide twisted green ribbon which crosses at back and has trailing ends. Lined in copper/reddish cloudy silk(?), and edged in green grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. At either side is attached a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner green grosgrain ribbon: "Hattie Carnegie" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39246/
Headband
Headband of black felt. The hat is designed to fit across the top of the head, coming to a rounded point on left side, and with an enlarged circular end on the left which sits higher on the head. The headband is "peaked" along the length, adding height to wearer. Designer's label sewn inside: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277141/
Headband
Headband of black velvet with back veil. Black feathers at right side with 1 clear rhinestone at base of feather cluster. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283731/
Headpiece
Headpiece of off-white satin. Designed as an open oval ring, the headpiece is made of a 1 inch wide stuffed headring overlaid with a veil of black net with embroidered floral forms. The veil extends down at front, and is gathered at sides. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286932/
Headpiece
Headpiece of golden brown crocheted flat braid ribbon. Black net. Maker's label: "Evelynvaron / Model" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305420/
Headpiece
Headpiece of chicken wire, sequins, and beads. The bandeau or tiara form has a base of curved metal fitting across the wearer's head, on top of which is a segment of chicken wire which is embellished with sequins, glittery material, beads, and one small rhinestone brooch at center. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39056/
Infant's Jacket
Infant's jacket or capelet of cream wool. Open on the sides with pink ribbon ties at neck and underarms. Trimmed around the edges with blanket stitch embroidery. Front flaps decorated with french knots and daisy stitch flowers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87057/
Infant's Jacket
Infant's jacket of cream colored wool twill. One piece construction. Edges trimmed with ivory blanket stitch embroidery. Open on sides. Closed with ivory ribbons at neck and under arms. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87058/
Infant's Slip
Slip for an infant of white cotton. Sleeveless. White work embroidery at neck and hem. Narrow lace edging at neck and armholes with wider lace edging at hemline. Two button closure at center back neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87056/
Jacket
Jacket of navy blue wool crepe. Asymmetrically trimmed with pleated band falling from right shoulder, secured with white buckle at waistline. Self belt at waist with matching white buckle. Long sleeved with pleated diagonal at lower right sleeve. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283688/
Jacket
Woman's jacket of purple wool with asymmetrical curved inset at right shoulder. Two bound slit pockets below shoulder. Center front closure with 3 buttons and bound buttonholes. Two slit pockets at hips with an asymmetrical inset over left pocket. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283694/
Jeans
Pair of commercially produced Wrangler denim jeans that were found in the southern Rocky mountains across from Red River, New Mexico in the late 1960's. The pants had been bleached in irregular patterns by the sun, and had various worn and torn places. After discovery, the Wranglers were embellished with red velour fabric pieces to cover some of the worst structural damage, and with a commercially available embroidered butterfly patch added below waistband at center back. Labels: Evidence of rectangular tag having been sewn on right-side back pocket. Both back pockets have "W" stitching; Fly button engraved "Wrangler"; Tag sewn inside fly: "Wrangler / 30 x 34 / Sanforized / Made in U.S.A."; Zipper pull stamped "Gripper Zipper" and "Pat Pending"; Marked on left front pocket, inside pants: "GDW" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30327/
Jeans
Pair of jeans. Commercially manufactured Levi Strauss & Co. denim blue jeans which have been bleached to white, then disassembled and reassembled with embellishments of multi-color crewel embroidered fabric and glass beads. Jeans have two front pockets and two back pockets, front zipper fly and button at waistband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30328/
Juliet Cap
Juliet-style hat of light blue felt with four teardrop-shaped appliques of iridescent sequins and faux pearls outlined in clear beads across front. Wire frame covered in light blue velour. Unlined. Retailer's Label: Volk digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39213/
Jumpsuit
Jumpsuit of pink, yellow, green and blue horizontal striped paper. The full-length rayon fiber remay paper pantsuit has olive green, pink, blue and tan stripes. Bodice is sleeveless, empire style, with with high rounded neckline and narrow spread collar, with stripes going horizontally. There is a center back zipper closure from the neck to hip-level. Pants are full-length, wide legged palazzo pants with vertical stripes. The pant legs are slit from the hem to mid-calf, and are unhemmed. The piece is lined in a white rayon fiber paper cloth. Retailer's label at inside left beneath the collar: "Change-In-Time / Boutique / Dallas, Texas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30035/
Jumpsuit
Jumpsuit of champagne satin with strapless bodice and wide leg pants pleated at waistline; bodice is fitted with constructed bust and princess seams; bodice is heavily embellished at the bust with faceted crystal disc beads that fade out just below the waist; center-back zip closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402525/
Kipper Tie
Wide kipper tie of large stylized paisley designs in yellows and gold on a blue field. Blue is somewhat faded from the original shade. The tie has a tag on reverse marked "Brent" and with the logo for Montgomery Ward. The creation of the kipper tie, a form of extra-wide necktie known for bright colors and patterns, is credited to British designer Michael Fish. He brought out the earliest ones in the 1960's. This example was a gift to the donor by his maternal grandmother, Mary Kathleen King Miller (1898-1969). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30325/
Mini Dress
Sheath-style mini dress of pink linen with all-over eyelash fringe. The linen-weave garment is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. It is printed with an elongated honey-comb pattern in shades of pink and white with woven-in fringe throughout. At each shoulder is three circular pink cloth covered buttons. The honeycomb pattern starts out light pink, and darkens towards the hem of the dress. Lower hem is dagged, following the line of the pattern. Lined at hem and upper part in pink. Label in center back inside: "Remas / of Scottsdale" 96 cm. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30138/
Mitts
Pair of off-white nylon mitts. The elbow-length fingerless gloves have a loop for the thumb, and are embellished along the finger opening with a trim of openwork daisy heads. Stamped: "Nylasuede / by Hansen / 6 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86995/
Mitts
Pair of black cotton lace mitts. The wrist-length fingerless gloves are of hand-crocheted lace, in a wide mesh. Slight frill at wrist, and separate thumb. A narrow black ribbon is threaded through the cuff, one ribbon lacking. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86986/
Mitts
Pair of ivory cotton or silk mitts. The elbow-length fingerless gloves are of crocheted ivory material in the style of the 1860's. The long sleeves have bands of lacework patterning. The hands are fingerless, with cording between where fingers would go, and an oval opening for the thumb. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86974/
Moccasins
Pair of moccasins of white pigskin leather. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe, with a decorative bow of leather straps and tassels at vamp. Low, stacked heel. Maker's mark stamped inside: "Frank Brothers / New York" Stamped inside: "5 1/2 S 1369 / 71 500" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114839/
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment. The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/
Mourning Fan
Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38050/
Neiman Marcus Cap
Cap of blue felt. Designed as a modified baseball cap, the domed felt crown has a semi-circular visor at front. On front side of crown is top-stitched decoration in white yarn of outlines enclosing "N" and "M". Hat is unlined, with inner blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's tag: "Made in England expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" With sticker: "100% Wool" With original "Sample" tag labeled "C407" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305379/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps in black ribbed silk. Styled with the sides cut-away, the shoes are designed with pointed toes, having toebox and heel of ribbed black silk similar in texture to grosgrain ribbon or corduroy. Across instep is flat bow of black silk grosgrain ribbon with rhinestone-set buckle along outer side. The stiletto heels are set under, and taper to base. Maker's label inside: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "5 1/4 A 1613-7LJ / 56672 digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277014/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of black faille. Large fabric rosette applied at vamp, set with rhinestones. Heel tapers to base. Retailer's label stamped inside: "Chandler's" and "French Room / Originals" Partly illegible marks inside: ".... 4 1/2 B 2984 / 92774 - 213W" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87001/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of pink leather. The shoes are designed as modified open-toe D'Orsay pumps, with cut-away sides. Across instep are three wide leather bands; sides of shoe are cut away on a curve which comes up and creates the back of the shoe. The high heel is covered with the same leather, and tapers slightly to base. Designer's label: "design by / Evins" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B Zelda / 1224-612 / 507 641" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87023/
Oxfords
Lace-up oxford style shoes of brown and beige leather, with a 1" flat heel and oval toe. Brown shoe laces. Designer label: "too / JOAN / & / DAVID / handmade in italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87086/
Pajamas
Men's pajamas of silk crepe. The two-piece set consists of a top and pants, both made of silk crepe printed with a design of large eyes decorated with teardrop-shaped colored "gems". The top has a rounded notched collar, long sleeves, and a patch pocket at left breast. The center front opening has four circular black buttons. The collar, center-front opening, and pocket are edged in black trim. Unlined. The top has a designer's label inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham" The full-length pants are wide-legged, and have a drawstring in the waistband. The pants have four labels sewn in: Designer's Label: "Todd / Oldham" Size: "S" Content: "100% / Silk" Care: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / In U.S.A." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30297/
Pantsuit
Evening pantsuit of ivory, blue, and black striped silk consisting of three pieces: a) Mid-length jacket of vertically striped silk with very wide, straight sleeves. Center front opening with no closure. Attached shoulder pads. (b) Pants of matching silk. Full-length, with center back snaps and hook-and-eye closure. Designed to fit loosely, with drawstring waist. (c) Short sleeved tank-style top of matching silk. Sleeveless, with round neckline. The hem, armholes, and neckline are trimmed in black. Each piece has designer's label "Oscar de la Renta". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30336/
Patchwork Dress
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multi-colored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline. Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo". Worn by singer Lena Horne (1917-2010). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30289/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of natural straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of cream grosgrain ribbon with bow at right side. Around the crown, but not on the bow, the ribbon is edged at top with black. The wide circular brim curves upwards from base of crown, then curves down to edge. Unlined. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Florence ... / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277083/