Boy's suit of olive green wool tweed with gold flecks and small blue and white vertical stripes. A) Jacket. Triangular, placket front is bordered with black twill tape and has a vertical, center insert of red wool bordered with black braid. Four gilded brass buttons on each side of placket with right side closure having tailored buttonholes. 1-1/2" belt of self attaches at bottom button. Long, set-in sleeves are trimmed with two, smaller, nonfunctional matching buttons. Turn down collar closes with 2 hook & eyes. Bow tie of black silk faille. Horizontal, double welt pockets at side. Body of jacket is lined with black polished cotton and sleeves are lined in cotton fabric in stripes of light gray with thin green stripes. B) Short pants of matching tweed. Closes with a single brown button on each side of waist above pockets. Single slit pocket on the back at right. Sides of legs trimmed with 3 matching, nonfunctional buttons. Interior cotton satin waistband has 8 vertical buttonholes and is stamped: "Aletor(?) Waist Band / Patented / June 29, 1896 / 3 / Brooklyn, N. Y." Front lined in brown polished cotton.
Child's coat of off-white cotton faille with box pleats front and back; one each at shoulder and one down the middle of both back and front. Front opening to waist of four small white mother-of-pearl buttons and two snaps at neckline, covered by pleat. Sailor collar embroidered with simple flower and vine pattern and embroidered scalloped edges. Long sleeves have the same treatment for 3" cuffs. Dropped waist with belt loops (belt missing).
Pair of lady's dance pumps in white satin. The shoes are of white satin with large bow at vamp and a second bow on the strap which buttons across instep of each shoe. Low/flat heels. White leather insole, and sides lined with white fabric. Retailer's stamp on sole: "S.G. Maddox / Weatherford, Texas." Stamped inside: "4 D 520"
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white weave fabric. Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Elite Quality" "3055" "Montcalm / Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc. / U.S.A." "16 1/2"
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white fabric over card(?). Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A." "Clarion / Linocord buttonholes" "14"
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white fabric over card(?). Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A." "Clarion / Linocord buttonholes / 2875" "14"
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white weave fabric. Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Elite Quality" "3055" "Montcalm / Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc. / U.S.A." "16 1/2"
Late day hat with wide brim of black lace on wire frame with gold thread lace around edge. Crown of faux black fur/fur felt. Trimmed at front with gold thread lace and ostrich feathers. Lined in black silk. Retailer label: Le Chapeau / Français / Sanger
Evening coat of cream/ecru wool with beige velvet accents and braided cream cord trim. Full length; center front opening with single hook & eye closure. Wide, 3/4 length dolman sleeves with velvet cuffs. Silk cord in scroll and chain pattern outlined front, sleeves and back to waist. Two inside pockets; ivory silk lining.
Evening jacket of ivory of Battenburg cotton lace. 3/4 sleeves; knee length. Open front with two large lace flowers and hanging tassels; black velvet ties stem from the flowers and close with two hook & eyes. Matching black velvet sewn into neck edge. Embroidered retailer's(?) label at inside back neckline: "J. Hook / Detroit / Mich."
Small girl's dress of fine white cotton or linen. Wide lace ruffle borders small yoke of lace and net. Short puffed sleeves trimmed with matching lace. Dress falls full from gathering under yoke ruffle with three rows of fine tucks, two rows of lace inserts and matching lace border at hem.
Small cartwheel-style hat. Cylindrical crown of gold and ochre/brown brocade with irregular folds. Circular stiff brown velour brim, not as wide as a typical cartwheel hat but in the same style. Affixed to the crown near the brim on one side is a cluster of three cloth flowers and a sprig of cloth leaves. Affixed to the other side is a plume of brown ostrich feathers. Inside of crown lined in black silk. Embroidered inside crown is maker's marks, including an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern"
Hat of black velvet with soft brim and two ostrich pom-poms attached to left side. Hard velour stand decorated with jet surrounds a shirred crown. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Irwin's / Decor / Cincinnati / St. Louis"
Hat of black velvet. Designed as a modified sailor's hat, with a shallow cylindrical black velvet crown with slightly domed top. The wide, flat, black velvet-covered brim has an inner wire form, visible where velvet has been damaged. At side of crown is a spray of black/green cock feathers with a black velvet ribbon bow. The underside of the brim is covered in black velvet, while the crown is lined in black satin. There are no labels in the hat.
Hat of navy blue velvet. Cylindrical crown has slightly concave sides and somewhat domed crown that is gathered into sides in large pleats. Wide brim of matching velvet is of approximately oval shape, set somewhat off-center and with large "split" at side allowing for some overlap, and with rounded ends, one of which hangs below other when hat is worn. At split is navy blue dyed ostrich feather plume. Underside of brim is of same velvet, inside of crown lined with navy blue satin with drawstring opening at top of crown, which has inner lining of cream fabric. No designer's, maker's or retailer's labels in item.
Hat of gray and cream brocade and black velvet. The high, domed crown is formed of cream and gray brocade, in a stylized pattern of geometric lines and floral forms, recalling Chinese patterns. The oval brim is set off-center, turning up high at front and only slightly at back. Set on the brim are three black velvet bows. The upper side of the brim is of the brocade, while the underside is lined in black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined with a black satin. Retailer's label is sewn inside crown: "Egner / 501 Gordon & Koppel Bldg / Kansas City".
Infant's ensemble of fine white persian lawn consisting of: A) Infant's dress of white batiste cotton. Full length dress gathers into square yoke with narrow, vertical rows of fine eyelet and hair pin lace. Two rows of pin tucking separated by two rows of eyelet and hair pin lace matching yoke at bottom with 2-1/2" ruffle of scalloped eyelet lace at hem. Round neckline trimmed in lace. Long sleeves with lace at hem; center back opening. B) Slip of white batiste cotton. Neckline and armholes trimmed in lace. Full length. Narrow row of pin tucks and row of eyelet and hair pin lace matching dress with matching ruffle of scalloped, eyelet at hem. Closure of mother-of-pearl buttons at shoulders. No labels in garment.
Picture hat of black velvet with domed crown and wide brim edged in black satin. Hatband of pleated black satin. Bright green ostrich feathers on left side of crown. Lined in pink fabric. Designer's label: "Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif." Retailer's label: "Yvonne / Hats / California"
Silver mesh purse with cathedral arch frame etched with scroll filigree. Ball and socket clasp. Ball finials at each corner of tri-corner bottom. Mesh band handle with slide adjustment stamped with a four petal flower. Interior of frame stamped: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis / Bags" and "Sterling"
Purse. Ornate bell-shaped silver (plated?) frame with openwork latticework set with red and blue cabochons and with silver (plated?) chain. Body of purse is of crocheted gray with vertical stripes of horizontal rows of faceted blue beads. Bottom of bag with fringe formed of loops of matching beading. Lined in gray satin with roses and vine trim.
Handbag. Arched frame of silver (plated?), lightly chased and engraved. Openwork areas on sides of frame allow rings from suspension chain to slide up and down acting as "locks". Mesh bag with enameled design of flowers. Inside bag are makers tag marked: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis Co. / Bags / Reg. U.S. & Can." and brand tag marked "El Sah".
Single shoe (right) of tan damask weave cloth and black leather. Shoe designed with pointed toe, the toebox and heel of black leather, the rest of the upper in textured tan cloth. Across instep is wide strap with flaring ends to which is applied an ornate cut/stamped steel simulated buckle. Strap secures with buttons. Modified stacked Louis heel. Stamped inside: The H&S. Pogue Co. / Cincinnati Measurements: length 24cm. Width 8cm. Height 11.5cm. Heel 4cm, 1.5in.
Ivory colored. horizontally ribbed knit. cotton. wool and rayon. summer weight undershirt. Adjustable. high rounded neckline with embroidered drawstring casing. Cotton ribbon drawstring that ties centerfront. Lapped centerfront placket opening to bustlevel with three tailored buttonholes and round. ivory. buttons as the closures. Long set-in sleeves with overcast serged cuffs. Hip-length shell with serged hem. All seams are overcast. Label stitched inside centerback. below neckline casing.
Sunbonnet of blue cotton with white lace trim. The brim is slightly square-shaped and heavily starched. The top of the crown is stitched to the brim in a flat seam, with fullness created in the lower crown through a set of 3 snaps on each side which fasten the crown to the brim, giving the lower crown a crenelated shape. The bonnet has no tail, and has self-fabric chin ties of blue ribbon. The left tie is formed from two pieces of fabric pieced together, while the right tie is of a single length of fabric. The ties are narrow hemmed, except for one side of a lower section of left tie, which is cut along the selvage and left unfinished. There are no labels or marks in the piece. The fact that this bonnet does not have a tail probably indicates that this was a visiting bonnet rather than a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Ivory colored. horizontally ribbed knit. cotton. wool and rayon. summer weight undershirt. Adjustable. high rounded neckline with embroidered drawstring casing. Cotton ribbon drawstring that ties centerfront. Lapped centerfront placket opening to bustlevel with three tailored buttonholes and round. ivory. buttons as the closures. Long set-in sleeves with overcast serged cuffs. Hip-length shell with serged hem. All seams are overcast. Label stitched inside centerback. below neckline casing.
Ivory colored. horizontally ribbed knit. cotton, wool and rayon. Summer weight union suit. Tank-style neckline with bound edges and shoulder straps. Adjustable front neckline with cotton drawstring that ties above the left breast. Thigh-length legs with overcast serge hems. Lapped. Open crotch access. One piece construction with overcast serge seams. Label stitched inside center back. below neckline.
Pair of wedding slippers of off-white/cream kid leather. Shoes have rounded toes, and three straps crossing vamp, each secured with small domed white glass buttons. Straps, vamp, and upper edges of shoes all edged with off-white silk stitching. Across vamp is small silk faille bow ornamented with white glass beads. Low 1 1/2" heel is a modified cuban or Louis heel, covered with white leather. "Volk's, Dallas, Texas" is stamped on inside. Partly illegible numbers stamped on inside. L: 24 cm W: 7 cm H: 10.5 cm Heel: 4 cm / 1.5 in.
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