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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 State: New York
 Decade: 1970-1979
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of burnt ochre straw with burnt ochre grosgrain ribbon bow at back on brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Wide upward brim with alternating narrow bands of flat straw. Unlined with ochre grosgrain headband. Designer's label on inside headband: " An Original / by Dajon / New York" Size tag to left of designer's label: "22 1/2" Union label: "565660" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276973/
Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of gray straw with gray grosgrain ribbon bow edged with gray straw at back of high, upturned brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Unlined with gray grosgrain headband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Valerie / Modes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276978/
Cap
Cap of ocher/dark yellow wool. Designed somewhat as a "watch cap", the hat has a high domed crown, which folds up at bottom to extends back upwards almost the entire height of the crown. Spaced top-stitching along upper edge. Unlined. Designer's label inside: "Adolfo II / New York Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286911/
Dress
a) Dress of purple, gold and silver metallic threaded lace over purple polyester gauze lining. Round neckline with keyhole opening. Front closure with snaps and hook & eyes. Knee-length. Short sleeved and gathered waist. Lined in purple silk. Designer's label at back neckline: "Oscar de La Renta" Union label at base of front opening with size "10" label attached. Retailer's label at hem: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Belt of purple suede with leaf and pinwheel design painted in gold and silver. Double-tongued buckle. Backing of black leather. Stamp on back of buckle: "10 237" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283702/
Dress
Dress of polychrome cotton print. The floor-length dress is of cotton fabric with a raised "zig-zag" texture, in the style of cotton piqué weaving. It is printed with a series of horizontal bands in geometric designs in blues, reds, greens, tan/brown, orange, and purple. The sleeveless dress has a shallow boat neckline in front and deep squared-off neckline at back. The fitted bodice section ends at the natural waist, into which the long skirt is slightly gathered. The front of the skirt has two patch pockets of the same material, with the print matched to disguise the pockets. One of the lower bands of the skirt is embellished with applied non-functional circular gold-colored "buttons". The hem of the dress has a 7 cm. wide band horizontal band of red wool trim, from which hangs red wool fringe. The center back zipper closure has a single hook-and-eye at top. The dress is lined in red fabric. The dress has two labels sewn inside. At left side at seam is designer's label "Lanvin / Paris New York"; at right side near zipper is size label "6". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30013/
Dress
Dress. Bodice of dress is made of chiffon with printed pattern of pink, red, green, blue, and purple swirls and bands and stylized foliage, woven with gold metallic threads forming paisley designs throughout bodice. Slight standing ring collar. The collar, waistband, cuffs, and bands running from collar along shoulders and down to cuffs are all trimmed with wide bands of gold braid/cording. The knee-length skirt is of red velour printed with large floral pattern in pink, purple, yellow, and dark maroon/brown. Reverse box pleat at center front, and zipper closure along back of garment, with three large gilt filigree buttons at collar. Cuffs also have 3 gilt buttons on each, with hidden snap closure. Dress is lined in pink fabric. Designer's label sewn inside bodice: "Ronald Amey / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30188/
Dress
Dress of navy blue silk chiffon. The full-length dress is sleeveless, with narrow straps extending across shoulders and meeting at center of the 2 1/2" wide A-line band at neckline. The straps and neckline band are covered with faux jewels. From the band drops the long A-line skirt of finely-pleated silk chiffon, which conceals a narrow sheath dress underneath. This dress is similar in style to one produced for Halley's 1967 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30317/
Dress
Dress of multi-colored velvets. The floor-length dress has an empire waist and bell-shaped long sleeves. The upper, bodice, section is made of a sheer, multi-colored fabric woven with bands of gold thread. Over the bodice is applied sections of burnout velvet in various colors, forming bands running up the bodice, over the shoulders, and down the back, another band forming a 1" high collar, and as 2" bands around each wrist. The sections are bordered in gold cording. The lower, skirt, section is of green velvet printed in browns, greens, and gold in an abstract geometric/organic design. Fully lined in green silk(?). Center back zipper from neckline to just above waist. Three hook-and-loop closures on collar. Designer label sewn alongside zipper at shoulder-blade height at right: "Ronald Amey / New York". Evidence of removed label at inside, center front of dress below neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30306/
Dress
A) Dress of yellow wool knit. Full-length. Mandarin collar, with ends stitched down to form slight collar points. Center front opening with 17 self-covered circular buttons and bound button holes, two buttons non-functional due to sewn-down collar, and one extra button hole at top in collar, but no button. Long or 3/4 length sleeves. Two large patch pockets at front hips. Lined in yellow silk. Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" B) Tie belt of same fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402531/
Ensemble - Coat, Blouse, and Skirt
Ensemble. A) Coat of brown and white felted wool. Knee-length or longer, long set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 5 large circular brown plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Main body of coat of pale brown and white check design, with cuffs, collar, and lower band of coat (about hips to hem) of light brown. Light brown and white check self tie belt. Side slit pockets. Lined in pale taupe. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" Hand-written label just above designer's label: "Deborah 929" B) Blouse of cream wool jersey. Long sleeves, high standing collar. Center back zipper closure running almost entire length of garment, from top of collar to about 3" above hem. Hook & eye at top of collar. Collar lined in satin, the rest of the blouse is unlined. Not hemmed. Hand-written label sewn in at neckline: "Deborah 929" C) Skirt of brown wool tweed. Mid-length; slight A-line. Narrow, 1-1/2" waistband. Fully lined in brown silk(?). Center back zipper closure with large hook & eye on waistband. Hand-written label "Deborah 1929". D) Belt of brown leather with wide square, self-covered buckle. Two inches wide. Belt is attached to skirt with inner bands of leather to which loops from the skirt are sewn. Stamped on reverse: "26 Norman Norell 3736". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330450/
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt and Blouse
Suit in hot pink nubbly wool knit. The ensemble consists of three pieces: a jacket, matching skirt, and black silk shell. The jacket is hip-length, with a shawl collar which has an attached black silk tie. The center front closure has 6 circular brass buttons with central embossed lion's heads and black outer edges. There are four faux flap pockets at front, two on each side of opening, each with button matching those of the closure. The long sleeves have simulated closure, with a line of three buttons matching others on each sleeve. The pocket flaps, cuffs, collar, center front, and hem are all edged in black. Designer's label sewn inside jacket at collar: "Adolfo / New York", with retailer's label sewn in just below: "Neiman-Marcus". The matching skirt is below-knee length, of the same pink wool knit, with pleating beginning 7" below waistband and extending to hem. Skirt has designer's label sewn inside at waistband as jacket. The accompanying black silk blouse is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Single black silk -covered button closure at back of neck. Shell has designer's label sewn inside at left of closure as jacket. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30285/
Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts
Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt. First image shows: a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell". b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York". c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". The second image shows: a) Vest, described above. b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30187/
Handbag
Clutch handbag of patent leather in small oval shape. Gold tone closure of three rings in bamboo pattern. Tuckable gold herringbone chain; 1/4" strap 30"long. Three interior compartments with black faille lining; 2 inner pocket, 1 with gold faille lining. Designer's stamp: "M M / Morris Moskowitz" Original maker's card in small black compartment; side 1: "M M / Morris Moskowitz"; side 2: This / Handbag is Made / Of Man Made / Materials" Measurements: 22cm L, 16cm H (with closure), 3cm W digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330505/
Hat
Hat of brown felt. Designed somewhat like a cloche, the domed crown is encircled at the base by a folded-over band of brown grosgrain ribbon tied at side, with a "pouf" of white, green, black and taupe feather. Fairly narrow brim, which is folded over and sewn down at edge, is turned up at front and left, down at right and back. The hat is unlined, with a dark brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Don Kline" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87073/
Hat
Hat of dark brown velvet. Somewhat styled as a "slouch hat", the slightly conical crown is flattened at top, and is embellished with concentric bands of top-stitching. Crown is encircled at base by a narrow band of taupe grosgrain ribbon, and has an ornament on right side consisting of a vertical 14" pheasant feather and various other brown and white feathers at base forming a "pouf". The wide brim is slightly wavy, turns down to edge, and is similarly embellished with concentric bands of top-stitching. The crown is lined in a steel gray satin, and has a steel gray grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286789/
Hat
Hat of rust wool felt with rolled, tubular shaped brim. Style sometime referred to as "bumper hat". Unlined with orange grosgrain headband. Crown stamped: "100% Wool / 'Esccello' / Geo. W. Bollman & Co., Inc" Designer's label on inside headband: "Frank's Girl / Designed by / Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283719/
Hat
Hat of red felt. Hat has a high, domed crown of smooth red felt. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband made of a mosaic of various types and colors of feathers. At one side is a cluster of ostrich and spotted feathers forming a pom-pom, with one long curling brown striped extending up and back. The wide felt brim is somewhat asymmetrical, and curves down except for near the pom-pom, where it waves upwards. Inside, at base of crown, is red grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to the inner ribbon band are two labels. Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris"; Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286869/
Hat
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool" Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286826/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of pink leather. The shoes are designed as modified open-toe D'Orsay pumps, with cut-away sides. Across instep are three wide leather bands; sides of shoe are cut away on a curve which comes up and creates the back of the shoe. The high heel is covered with the same leather, and tapers slightly to base. Designer's label: "design by / Evins" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B Zelda / 1224-612 / 507 641" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87023/
Pumps
Pair of woman's shoes of pearlized plastic fabric. Designed with a squared toe, the shoes are lined in silver leather, and have square heels covered in same silver leather. Designer's label in left shoe: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label in right shoe: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" Handwritten note inside shoe: "7 1/2 M / 26753" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277067/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of deep red patent leather. Designed with squared toes, the vamp is enhanced with large applied black silk rosette. Heel of same red patent leather, tapering to base. Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Fenton Last" Handwritten inside: "7B / 53992 / B1371H" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87031/
Pumps
Pairs of pumps of green reptile patchwork. The shoes are designed with a pointed toe, and uppers made of triangular sections of dyed reptile pieced together. The sections are dyed in various shades of greens and browns. The throat has an extending triangular section which is oriented to point towards the wearer's leg. The low, chunky heels are covered with the same skin, and taper to base. Designer's label inside: "SusanBennisWarrenEdwards" Stamped inside: "4514 Zig-Zag 7" Stamped on sole: "Designed by / Susan / Bennis / Warren / Edwards / Hand Made / In Itayl / 7" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87037/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of black reptile. Designed as sling-back pumps with rounded, open toes, the instep is made of wide crossed bands of black leather, enhanced with top-stitching. The sides are cut-away at ankle, and a single black strap extending around back of heel, secured with small oval gold buckle. The high heels are a modified stiletto, somewhat thick, but of same shape. Combined designer's and retailer's stamp inside: "Bruno Magli / For / Bloomingdale's / Made in Italy" Stamped inside: "R984 6 1/2" Stamped on sole: "M / Vero / Cuoio / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87038/
Pumps
Pair of woman's pumps of black leather textured to imitate alligator. Designed with a somewhat squared toe, the vamp has scalloped upper edge trimmed with thin gold band. Heel with same texture, tapering to base. Designer's label stamped inside: "Delman / Los Angeles / London / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87060/
Pumps
Pair of woman's pumps of black leather and black patent leather. Designed as spectator pumps with a rounded toe, the toebox and the heels are of black patent leather, piped at edge with thin band of white leather. The rest of the upper is of black leather. The 2 1/4" high heel is covered in black patent leather. Designer's label stamped in left shoe: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label stamped in right shoe: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" Handwritten inside shoe: "7 1/2 M / 30028" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115006/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of black leather and leopard skin. Designed with square toes, the shoes have black leather uppers and a 2" wide rectangular band of leopard skin extending from toe to instep, forming a tongue. Squared heel is covered with black leather, and tapers to base. Designer's label inside: "Herbert Levine" Written inside: "9a / 32701 / 11-857" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115003/
Pumps
Women's high heel pumps of yellow patent leather. Designed with squared toe with plain uppers, the 1 1/2" high black patent leather heels have an inlay of concentric rectangles of alternating navy blue, green, orange, and red leather. Lined in cream leather. Designer Label (Left shoe): "Herbert Levine" Retailer's Label (Right shoe): "Amen Wardy / El Paso, Texas" Handwritten notation inside shoe: "7 1/2 M / 16887" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115009/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of black patent leather. Designed with squared-off toes, the plain uppers have slight stitching detail around upper edge. The low heels are of red leather with applied scattered gold metal stars in two sizes. Maker's label: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" Handwritten inside: "8 M / 12400" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114998/
Scarf Hat
Hat formed of a printed scarf. The hat is constructed to look as a scarf that has been tied around the wearer's head, with long trailing ends at back. The under-structure is a domed crown of stiffened black mesh overlaid with the printed scarf, which has a navy blue ground, white stars, and gold American eagles. The hat has an inner pink grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286907/
Shoes
Shoes of polished brown leather. Designed with slightly rounded toe, the plain uppers have rounded throat and single wide sabot-style strap across instep with self buckle. Low, chunky heel tapers to base. Stamped inside: "Herbert Levine" Handwritten inside: "8 1/2 C / E1406" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114997/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of mottled brown and black polished leather. Designed with squared toes, the shoes are brown along the sides, with black and lighter tan lines running from toe to instep. Across instep is applied plaque of same leather with scrolling ends. Squarish heel, which tapers slightly to base. Designer's label: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "6a / 14176 / 2.4243.8L" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114949/