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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 State: California
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Beret

Beret

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Beret style hat of ochre colored chenille yarn. Retailer's label on inside crown: " Alexander & Oviatt / Los Angeles"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche hat of tan straw. The high, domed crown is of woven tan straw in a spiraling pattern. On either side of the crown is an applique in blue, pink/gray, and black felt of an arc or half-circle. On one side, the arc points up, on the other side it points down. Around the base of the crown is a narrow band of black felt. The brim is also of woven straw, upturned at sides and edged with black felt. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze/gold fabric, now very shattered. Inside the crown is stitched an ornate label, with a view of two women playing tennis and the inscription: "Berkeley / Made in / California". A small arrow and the word "Front" indicates the front of the hat. Attached to an inner seam of the lining is size label "22".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche Hat

Cloche Hat

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Cloche style hat of black shiny straw. Edge curls up and makes small brim on center back. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label on inside headband: "Galanos"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1944
Creator: Adrian
Description: Coat of purple wool. Below-knee-length, collarless, and with long sleeves. Center front opening with three large, self covered buttons. Two patch pockets trimmed with one matching button each and framed in 3/4 inch inserts. Lined in purple silk crepe. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Adrian / Original" With matching covered belt with functioning belt buckle. Leather reverse with three punched holes. Stamped "1756 - 14"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1955
Creator: Bayh, Frederick Gibson
Description: Cocktail dress of large plaid orange, green, purple, and red raw and china silk. The dress is sleeveless, ankle-length, with red/orange raw silk halter-top bodice, "shawl" of same which is attached at mid-back and drapes over shoulders and across front. Lined in pale green. Skirt of dress is of silk, with large, plaid squares of reds, oranges, greens, and purples. Attached cummerbund style belt which buttons in back with 5 self-covered buttons and loops. Center back zipper Lined in light gold organza. Combined designer's/retailer's label at left side seam of lining near hem: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original" Accompanying petticoat formed of three full-length layers of red, purple, and green silk. Each layer with hem band of grosgrain ribbon in a different color, and each with deep net ruffle at hem, also edged with grosgrain ribbon. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes on 1" waistband. Combined designer's/retailer's label at center back waistband: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Max, Barney
Description: Day dress of oatmeal variegated silk/linen blend(?). Knee-length, coat-style dress with collar and center front opening with 3 large circular "carved" horn buttons with teardrop centers, and one non-functioning one at bottom; bound buttonholes. Two hooks and loops at waist. Elbow-length sleeves. Natural waist into which bodice and skirt are slightly gathered at front and back, and appear to be deeply gathered at sides, but are not - backed by elastic to pull together. String belt loops. Lined in light tan/dark cream acetate(?). Designer's label at inside back collar: "Barney Max / designs ltd. / California" With accompanying belt of tan leather faced with same fabric as dress; 1-1/4" wide. Square buckle covered with same fabric. Former owner's mark on back: "7 Leathers"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1971~
Creator: Gernreich, Rudi
Description: Day dress of red and purple printed wool knit. Knee-length or slightly below, the dress has a fairly deep rounded neckline and long set-in sleeves. Skirt is gathered at slightly dropped waist. Dress has a center back zipper, and is unlined. The dress is made of of areas of print. The bodice and upper part of the skirt has a geometric print of purple diamond/parallelagram shapes on red ground. The sleeves and lower part of the skirt have a print of large purple squares on red ground, forming a checkerboard pattern. Center back lapped zipper. Unlined. Designer label: "Rudi Gernreich design for / 10 Harmon Knitwear" Care label: "Dry Clean / Only / 100% wool"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1965~
Creator: Gernreich, Rudi
Description: Floor length day dress. Long sleeves with gathered opening at bottom of sleeve. Bodice of brown wool ribbed knit with kimono style sleeves and gusset at underarm. Brown ribbed knit stops on sleeves above elbow. Bottom of sleeve out of wool jersey knit in brown and purple rectangular checked pattern. Rounded neckline. False layered effect at neckline out of same brown and purple rectangular checked print. Skirt gathered at waistline and constructed of wool jersey knit in large brown and purple checked pattern. Center back lapped zipper closure. Designer label: "Rudi Gernreich design for / Harmon Knitwear"; "14" Care label: "Dry Clean / Only / 100% wool" With belt of brown wool ribbed knit. 1 1/4 inch wide. Silver colored metal cap finishes one end, while silver colored metal adjustable buckle is on other end. Engraved in metal buckle "SOLID BRASS / made in / USA"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1985/1990
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Day dress of printed golden yellow silk patterned overall with purple, orange and red flowers, green leaves, and black dots. The knee-length dress has a jewel neckline and padded shoulders. The long sleeves have 3" zippered cuffs. The dress has a dropped waist with three-tier, knife pleated skirt. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in yellow organza. Designer's label at left underarm: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right underarm: "I. Magnin" Care label to right of retailer's label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Day dress of gray and yellow windowpane plaid cotton. Street length with short sleeves. Short collar. Faux placket runs down the center front of the bodice with bow at top and line of 5 non-functional white buttons. Full skirt is pleated and gathers at natural waist. At each side, slightly behind hip, are two slit pockets with side "flaps". Center back zipper closure, and grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook-and-eye closure. Unlined. Designer's label inside at left side seam: "Galanos / Originals / Beverly Hills" Retailer's label inside skirt at front: "Neiman-Marcus".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1970/1979
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of off-white / ivory wool knit. The form-fitting full-length sheath has a round neckline and short cap sleeves. The entire dress is covered with iridescent sequins, and is decorated at lower part with five bands of gold/copper sequins, 3 bands of rosettes composted of gold beads and pearls, and two bands of "garlands" with suspended pine-cone forms and diamond shapes of copper/gold sequins, gold bugle beads, and gold beads. Dress has zipper closure along center back. Label reads: "Gene Shelly's / Boutique Internationale / California / Hand Decorated in Hong Kong / 100% Wool"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1965
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Dress of navy blue wool jersey. a) Day dress of navy wool jersey. White linen detachable collar connects to neckline with snaps. Below knee length with A-line skirt. White linen 7/8" bias strip at edge of center front opening that extends 7 1/2" below waist. Thirteen 3/4" pearl buttons with gold edge and bound buttonholes; buttons separate at waistline to accommodate belt. Long sleeves with 1-3/4" slit at seam. 3" deep pleat in skirt at side front and back. Concealed slit pockets in side seams. Unlined. Designer's label on inside left seam: "Norman Norell / New York" b) Belt of 3" wide white patent leather, slightly curved, with large circular gold buckle. Not original to garment. Evidence of small cords at side seams, which Norell usually used to attach cloth belts, or thin belt-loops. This belt would not have fit. Retailer's stamp on reverse: "I Magnin / 30 Calderon 5938"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress of silk crepe for summer. The full-length dress has an A-line skirt of cocoa brown silk crepe and attached belt with pendant strap at front left. The bodice is of cream silk crepe printed with a "trompe l'oeil" ribbon motif below the rounded neckline. Darts at sides. Long, bat-wing style tapered sleeves. Center-back snap closure. Unlined. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1964~
Creator: Travilla, William
Description: Dress of black diagonally ribbed matelassé cotton. Main body of dress is mid-thigh length, with an extending underskirt of same fabric attached to lining which makes the dress knee-length. Rounded jewel neckline and 3/4 length sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline to left of zipper: "Travilla"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Travilla, William
Description: Dress of blue and white striped linen(?). Below knee length, with high, rounded neckline, with off-white linen thin flattened tubular collar, and 3/4 length sleeves. Stripes on front and back of main part of dress run horizontally, on sides of dress run vertically, and run down the length of the arms. Center back zipper closure, with hook and loop at collar and at center back/waist area. Fully lined in dark navy blue. Designer's label at inside back hem of lining near slit: "Travilla" With accompanying long tie belt of same fabric.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1968~
Creator: Gernreich, Rudi
Description: Dress of white linen (cotton?), the fabric with alternating square of double weave, plain squares and a "waffle weave". Knee length; A-line silhouette. Triangular inserts at side seams gradually widening toward hemline. In-seam pocket at side seams. Jewel neckline. Shaped armhole with cap sleeves. Center back lapped zipper. Fully lined in white silk. Designer label: "Rudy Gernreich" Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1950
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of: A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Cape Coat and Dress

Ensemble - Cape Coat and Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Two-piece wool tweed cape/coat street ensemble. a) Cape coat of wool tweed in three shades of plum. Long, single-breasted coat with cape attached at shoulders. Four button closure with alternating bound buttonholes and supplemented with two hook & eyes. Two small double welt pockets on yoke and two larger double welt pockets at waistline. Coat dress portion is tailored at waistline with 3/4 length sleeves. Small turndown collar. Lined in rust brown colored silk faille. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / Original" b) Straight skirt of matching wool tweed. Unlined. Zipper closure.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket, Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Hat

Ensemble - Jacket, Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Hat

Date: 1958
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Ensemble consisting of: A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom. Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos" B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net. Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos" C) A-line skirt, ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1970~
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Evening dress of off-white Qiana knit in mermaid style covered in flat gold sequins. 1" stand up band collar. Long sleeves with zippers at wrists. Center back zipper with hook & eye. 1-1/2" waistband with slightly flared skirt. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam near hem: "Norman Norell for I. Magnin & Co."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1970~
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Evening dress in mermaid style of bronze Qiana knit covered in flat copper/bronze sequins. 2" stand up band collar. Long sleeves with 3" cuffs, each having 3 self covered, sequined buttons. Center back zipper with hook & eye. 3" waist band with interior petersham. Slightly flared, full length skirt. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam: "Norman Norell for I. Magnin & Co." Union label to right of designer/retailer label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress consisting of jacket and skirt. A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1940
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Evening Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Date: 1970~
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Evening ensemble of red Qiana knit covered in red sequins, consisting of two parts: A) Evening dress in mermaid style. Slip style bodice with spaghetti straps. Full length, straight skirt. Center back zipper with hook & eye. 1" waistband with interior red grosgrain ribbon petersham. Bodice lined in red Qiana knit; skirt lined in red silken fabric. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam of lining: "Norman Norell for I. Magnin & Co." B) Matching Chanel-style jacket. Long sleeves. Collarless neckline, center front opening and hem of sleeves trimmed with 1" border of straight-line sequins. Horizontal welt pockets at sides also bordered with 1" straight-line sequins. Lined in matching red Qiana knit. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "I. Magnin & Co."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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