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 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Slippers

Slippers

Date: 1890/1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's slippers of brown kid leather with jet beading. Designed with pointed toes, the uppers are of brown kid leather, heavily decorated with radiating patterns of jet beads, over toe, around sides and throughout openwork that decorates throat and sides of shoes. Originally had sewn-in ties across the instep. Lined in black leather. Soles of black leather. High heels are of modified French style, sometimes called "spool" style, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front. There are no marks or labels in the shoes. The brown ribbons in photographs are not original, are to hold the shoe closed in place of original ribbons, now missing.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit

Suit

Date: 1946
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert, 1903-1959
Description: Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit

Suit

Date: 1941/1945
Creator: Forstmann
Description: Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels. There are three labels in the coat: Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co." Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas" Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit

Suit

Date: 1966/1967
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Two-piece suit of dark orange knit. The ensemble includes a jacket, double-breasted, with princess seaming and a large cape collar. The full-length straight sleeves each have three circular black buttons and bound button-holes. The opening at front has two vertical rows of 4 black circular buttons, and a hidden snap closure at upper right. Attached to the jacket are four black patent leather belt carriers to support the accompanying thin black patent leather belt. Fully lined in black fabric. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Norell". The matching skirt is short, with a 2" wide waistband into which the skirt gathers. Two slit pockets at side seams, one of which conceals zipper closure and line of snaps and hooks-and-eyes. Skirt is fully lined in orange fabric. No designer's label in skirt, but a single care label ("Do Not Use / Steam Iron") sewn below waistband at inside front.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of blue cotton with white lace trim. The brim is slightly square-shaped and heavily starched. The top of the crown is stitched to the brim in a flat seam, with fullness created in the lower crown through a set of 3 snaps on each side which fasten the crown to the brim, giving the lower crown a crenelated shape. The bonnet has no tail, and has self-fabric chin ties of blue ribbon. The left tie is formed from two pieces of fabric pieced together, while the right tie is of a single length of fabric. The ties are narrow hemmed, except for one side of a lower section of left tie, which is cut along the selvage and left unfinished. There are no labels or marks in the piece. The fact that this bonnet does not have a tail probably indicates that this was a visiting bonnet rather than a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1890/1899
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of brown linen. Made of a plain weave with both white and brown threads, the hat has pasteboard staves within the brim, a crenelated buttoning crown and long tail. The crown and tail are separate pieces, sewn together at neck seam, with the tail fastening to the sides of the brim by 3 off-white buttons on each side. The tail is semi-circular in shape, and the narrow chin ties are hemmed by hand. Poke-style bonnets are generally those that have brims stiffened either through quilting or plain starched fabric. Sunbonnets that rely on staves for brim support are not considered poke-style sunbonnets. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1890/1899
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of white cotton broadcloth. The hat has a square-shaped brim with an outer layer of off-white weave material with a plain-weave backing, and crocheted trim. The brim is thin and does not appear to contain much stiffening material or starch. The crenelated crown fastens to brim by a series of 9 buttons on top and 2 buttons on each side. The crown is trimmed with the same crocheted trim as is the brim. The crown and tail are of a made of a single length of fabric. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: unknown
Description: Toque hat of gray felt. The high, cylindrical crown of gray felt flares very slightly to the flat top, which is cut on a slant, and is higher at front than back. The top panel is inset, forming a "ridge" of the top edge. The lower edge is also on a slant, with inner band of same felt extending slightly below the crown. The inner band is cut to form a pointed arch at front. No brim. The hat is unlined, but has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co. / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1955
Creator: Arlett, Jean
Description: Hat of green straw. The toque style hat is formed of a high, cylindrical crown of woven green straw with raised outer rim at top and central shallow domed area. Around the shallow domed area is an acid-green woven ribbon band, tied with a bow with trailing ends at back of hat. Around the inside base of the crown is a band of the same woven ribbon which projects down slightly below the edge of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of green grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Exclusive / Jean Arlett / Creations".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design