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 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Mules

Mules

Date: 1940
Creator: unknown
Description: Mules of brown/oxblood suede. The shoes are designed with rounded, open toes. The toe-box/instep is formed of brown/oxblood suede with two diamond-shaped cut-outs across instep, with gold kidskin bands across narrow points between openings. The high French heels are covered with same suede. Retailer's stamp inside right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
D'Orsay Pumps

D'Orsay Pumps

Date: 1949
Creator: Pandora Footwear
Description: D'Orsay pumps of black suede. The shoes have cut-away sides, and rounded toes. The toe-box is formed by openwork black suede arching/interlaced arching shapes. The heel is formed by three crossing, wrap-around black suede ankle straps with small silver buckles. High, French heel covered in black suede. Marked on heel strap of both shoes: "26609-7 / 6N", "10305x"; Stamped on lining at heel: "324 / Last"; Stamped on lining "Pandora / Footwear".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
D'Orsay Pumps

D'Orsay Pumps

Date: 1941~
Creator: Frank Brothers Footwear, Inc.
Description: Evening pumps of black suede and rhinestones. Designed as D'Orsay pumps with rounded toes and cut-away sides. The toebox is of openwork with peep-toe, set with tiny multicolored rhinestones bordering the cut-outs. The sides of the heels similarly decorated. The ankle straps with small gilt metal rectangular buckles set with matching stones. Thick, modified Parisian heel covered with black suede. Stamped in right shoe: "Frank Brothers / Footwear inc. / New York" Stamped in left shoe: "Sophistecrat"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
D'Orsay Pumps

D'Orsay Pumps

Date: 1940
Creator: unknown
Description: D'Orsay pumps of silver leather. Designed with rounded toe and cut-away sides, the pumps have vamp formed of two wide curving bands joined at top of vamp and open at sides and toe. The silver leather of the vamp and the closed heel and ankle strap are embellished with top-stitching; the straps secured with a square rhinestone-set buckle. The modified French heel is covered with silvered leather, without top-stitching. No markings in right shoe. Left shoe with sewn-in label: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd." Both shoes with handwritten notation: "8a / S 12293 / 8315Bb"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Petticoat

Petticoat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Petticoat of maroon taffeta with two tiers of 1-3/4" black horsehair braid. One inch waistband. Center back opening closed with hook & eyes. Two curved panels at hips are gathered at the hem. Unlined, with 3-1/2" band of black stiffened net at interior hem line. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1944
Creator: Fredericks, John
Description: Picture style hat of black felt. Asymmetrical brim is wider on sides. Fringe of self as trim encircles crown and drapes across brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "John Fredericks Inc. / New York" Tag at left of designer's label: "Made in America"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Sonnenfeld's
Description: Picture hat of off-white felt. The low, domed crown is open at top along a split from front to back, and is encircled and almost covered by wide bands of red, white, and blue horizontally striped grosgrain ribbon, with crossing and trailing ends at back. The wide brim curves downwards. Hat is unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Sonnenfeld's / St. Louis"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Picture hat of light tan straw. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top, with a sunken center. Crown is encircled by a wide band of olive green velvet ribbon, lighter on one side, that is formed into a multi-lobed bow at back with trailing ribbons. Wide flat brim turns down near edge. Unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Marguerite Yvonne
Description: Picture hat of black silk. The hat is designed with a cylindrical crown, somewhat flattened at top, which is encircled at the base by a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon with bow and streamers at back. The top of the crown is enhanced with radiating lines of top stitching. The wide black silk brim curves down, and is made as two concentric sections, each with decorative top stitching creating layered rays. "Marguerite / Yvonne / 509 Madison Ave / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Frederics, John
Description: Picture hat of light tan straw. The hat has a high, conical crown that is flattened at top. The wide straw brim curves up slightly from base of crown, then curves gently downwards to edge. At back of crown is large navy blue grosgrain ribbon bow, and around the top of the hat is a "cloud" of navy blue veiling. Hat is unlined, with inner light tan grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and a black elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside: "John Frederics Inc / New York"; "Made in America"; and size label "22".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1945/1947
Creator: Frederics, John
Description: Picture hat of black felt. The crown is formed as a bun, with puffed top, resembling a muffin, cinched in at the base by a visible satin string/stitch with trailing edge/tassel at back. The wide brim of matching felt curves downwards and undulates slightly, and has a decorative stitch near outer edge very slightly gathering the edge. Label sewn inside crown: "Made in America"; "John Frederics Inc. / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1940~
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Picture hat of reddish brown straw. Low, cylindrical, slightly tilted crown is flattened at top and encircled at base by wide gray grosgrain ribbon which divides into three tiers of streamers cascading at back. Wide floppy brim. Reddish brown inner grosgrain ribbon hatband and black elastic cord to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / INC." Retailer's label at inner hatband: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1940/1949
Creator: De Witt
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1940
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pouch - Turkish Festival Outfit

Pouch - Turkish Festival Outfit

Date: 1940/1960
Creator: unknown
Description: Pouch. Orange cotton pouch, rounded at bottom. Suspended by gold metallic cord. Edged with metallic thread lace. The surface of the pouch is embroidered with various colors of metallic embroidery, mostly chain-stitch. Lined in orange cotton.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1940/1959
Creator: Palter DeLiso
Description: Single pump of brown and white suede. Designed as a sling-back spectator pump, the shoe has a 1/4" high brown leather platform and a rounded open toe. The toe box is of brown suede, and is decorated with scrolling lines of perforations, and has a border of perforations. The rest of the upper is of white suede, with an upper border of perforations, is cut-away a the heel, and has a single strap that goes around back of heel and secures with a and a small buckle. The 3 3/4" high heel is covered in brown leather, and tapers to base. Designer's label: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" 2nd Designer's label: "Palter De Liso / Capri / Last" Handwritten notation: "6 1/2B / S469b5 / 7410-2 BH" ONE ONLY - for left foot.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1948/1950
Creator: United States Shoe Corporation
Description: Pair of black suede pumps. Shoes have peep-toe design and are embellished across the vamp with an asymmetrical design in black ribbon and side 1/2 bow on outer side. 2 1/2" high continental set-in heels covered in black suede. Leather soles, grey leather lining. Printed grey cloth lining with logo "Lastep". Stamped inside heel of both shoes: "D13258 7 1/2A AAA / 6/A". Stamped on sole of each shoe: "The United States Shoe Co. / Reg U.S. Pat. Off. / Red Cross / Shoe" Stamped inside right shoe: "Red Cross Shoes" and "This product has no connection whatever / with the American National Red Cross". Use of the "Red Cross Shoe" brand was suspended during World War II when the American Red Cross objected. It was re-instated in 1948 on the condition they company publicly disclaimed all connection with the ARC. These shoes have the disclaimer stamped in the right shoe.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1940
Creator: Delman
Description: Pumps of dark brown suede and brown alligator. Designed with a rounded toe, the uppers are of dark brown suede with toe-cap and heels of brown alligator. The modified Cuban heel is covered with brown alligator. Designer's stamp in left shoe: "Delman / Made entirely by hand" Retailer's stamp in right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Handwritten note in each shoe: "2P67046 54 / 8a"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1940
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of shoes of navy blue suede with an oval toe. The vamp has a single wide strap buttoned at the side. Lined in cream leather which shows as thin edging on exterior of shoe. The medium height modified continental heel is covered in the same suede.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1946
Creator: Gainsborough Ltd.
Description: Shoes of brown snakeskin and green reptile. Designed with a very slightly pointed toe, the peep-toe toe-box is made of two pieces, the inner piece of brown snakeskin, the outer piece of green reptile, both edged with plaited border of two leathers, the snakeskin overlapping the reptile, forming a point. The toe with thick platform, the sides of which with three horizontal bands of leathers, green lower reptile, center band of plaited leathers, the upper of brown reptile. Open sides, the sling back formed with openwork interlaced leathers, secured with small gilt metal rectangular buckle. The set-in French high heel is covered in brown snakeskin, with vertical plaited band of colored reptile leather running vertically along back edge. Stamped in both shoes: "ce qui se porte" / Gainsbourough / 1128 Lincoln Road / Miami Beach, FLA.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1946
Creator: I. Miller
Description: Shoes of black suede. Heeled shoes designed as a variation between pumps and sandals, with rounded toe and low vamp/sides/heel with crossing straps at vamp. From heel a band extends upwards, splits, and becomes strap to wrap around ankle, which fastens with small buckle. 3 1/8" high modified continental heel covered with same suede. Retailer's stamp in left shoe: "Neiman-Marcus Co / Dallas" Designer's stamp in right shoe: "L. Miller / Beautiful Shoes" Handwritten notation inside shoes: "7AA-4S2 14- 778 983419"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1940~
Creator: unknown
Description: Shoes of purple satin with silver kid leather trim. The shoes combine the closed heel and cut-away sides of a d'Orsay pump with the open strap-work vamp of a sandal. They have an ankle strap which secures with a small rectangular buckle, and which connected to the vamp via a strap which runs along the top of the foot. The high, modified French heel is covered with purple satin. Retailer's label stamped in both shoes: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes - Turkish Festival Outfit

Shoes - Turkish Festival Outfit

Date: 1940/1960
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of shoes. Styled as low, backless slippers with upturned, pointed toes. Toe-box of striped cotton (silk?) with stripes of purple, yellow, orange, etc., with small diamonds of white. Stripes run from toe up to throat of shoe. The toe-box is edged in gold. Insole lined in orange. Soles of leather.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1947/1954
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Black, rust and brown herringbone wool suit. a) Coat of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons with cut tops. Long, set-in sleeves. Brown fur collar. Yoked shoulders and box pleats at left and right sides and two pleats down the back. Lined in taupe silk satin. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Skirt of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Below knee length; A-line. Left side zipper with 2 hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in rust colored silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design