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 Decade: 1900-1909
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Boots

Boots

Date: 1907/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of white kidskin leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Embellished at top with band of small holes along edge of boot. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" and "28D 23949"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900/1918
Creator: Hamilton-Brown Shoe Co.
Description: Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The medium height, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, tapering slightly to ground. The sole is of tan leather. The shoes are lined in off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of brown rubber(?) with molded marks. Maker's mark in sole: "Hamilton-Brown / Makers / [illeg] Molded into heel: "Cushion Comfort Heel 2" Stamped in lining: "450 24512H"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1908/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/very pale blue leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. The sole is of tan leather. Shoes are lined in matching leather and off-white cloth. Retailer's stamp on lining: "Byrn's Boot Sh [partly illeg] / Kansas City"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900/1999
Creator: Anne Klein (House of) (New York, New York)
Description: Pair of black suede boots. Ankle-height boots of black suede, with pointed toes and decorative stitch accent at opening. Black suede tassel on heel from opening. 2 1/4" high "stacked" spike heel of black leather(?). Upper is lined in black leather, inner sole lined with red leather. Sole of dark brown leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Anne Klein / New York". Stamped on sole: "Anne / Klein / Made in Italy / 7 1/2 / M"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Capelet

Capelet

Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Capelet of dark brown to black plush, possibly silk and cotton, resembling seal fur. Rounded roll collar trimmed in brown soutache braid stitched with a line of purple thread and black glass or jet beads. Center front opening with hook & eye at neck. Trimmed in light brown with purple soutache braid and hexagonal prism, black glass beads. Collar and center front opening bound by black braid (appears to have been added after the original garment was made). Fully lined in a printed polished cotton (not original) of black with looping rope design and repeated fan shapes of pale blue, red, and cream.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Dress

Child's Dress

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's "apron" dress of woven red and blue striped flannel with collar and one box pleat in front. Center front opening with snap at neckline. No belt - possibly missing.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Coat

Day Coat

Date: 1900/1905
Creator: unknown
Description: Daytime coat of black wool for mourning wear. The princess-line shell of the coat falls to mid-calf with a scalloped hem, and has a high standing band collar lined with a gathered black silk ruffle. The ruffle is edged with two narrow bands of ruching and is embellished with cut-work backed in black silk, the cut-work edged with black grosgrain ribbon decorated with black beads and jet. From the center front of the collar, trailing black silk ribbon accents fall to knee-length, and four knee-length ribbons are finished with beaded tassels. The coat has full-length, shaped, slightly flared sleeves that gather into the armseye and are embellished with cut-work motifs and beading as the collar. The cuff edges are faced with box pleated bands of black silk ribbon. Center-front opening of coat with black wool placket facing from neck to waistline, and is secured with seven hook & eyes. Two more hook & eyes catch the front opening at mid-thigh and knee-level. The coat front and back are embellished with black silk backed cut-work and beading as the collar and sleeves. Fully lined in black silk. Black waist tie secured to lining.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1902
Creator: Harbison, Samuel
Description: Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons)
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1909/1912
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of midnight blue velvet with cream silk(?) bodice overlaid with pleated sheer black fabric. Rounded neckline edged with black lace, with wired standing collar at back of neck. Long pointed sleeves of matching velvet with wide collars of black net/corded lace overlaying cream silk sleeves trimmed with cream lace. Long, full skirt gathers onto waist under a 3" wide, attached velvet belt trimmed with net covered in black sequins and jet beads with round buckle. Hem with wide black net/corded lace band over sheer black silk(?), with narrow triple-layer black silk gauze ruffle at bottom. With accompanying bolero style vest of black net with applique cording/corded lace. Fastens across front with narrow ribbon of midnight blue velvet with central "pendant" butterfly of black sequins and jet bead as head of butterfly.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dressing Gown

Dressing Gown

Date: 1900~
Creator: unknown
Description: Dressing gown/wrapper of black peau de soie. Mother Hubbard style, full-length, shawl collar trimmed with 2 tiers of ruffles of same, and white lace and black velvet ribbon and then bands of white cording overlaid with/couched down with black stitching. Long sleeves with turned 3" back-turned cuffs with white cording and black velvet trim. Hook and eye closure CF. Long velvet ribbon ties at throat. Pleated at center back, with short horizontal diamond-shaped "belt" across lower back, below which is more pleating. Label: "Meyer Jonasson & Co / Pittsburg. New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Driving Coat

Driving Coat

Date: 1900/1914
Creator: unknown
Description: Driving Coat or "Duster" of light tan linen (blend?). Full-length, wide skirted, with high neckline and black collar having wide points at front. Single breasted opening set to left of center, with two hidden small white buttons (1 at throat, one at left collar bone), and five large circular buttons with black outer rims and center of the tan linen. Full-length sleeves with wide turned-back cuffs faced with black and with two non-functioning buttons matching but smaller than opening buttons. Two large patch pockets at hips. Unlined. No labels in garment.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1900~
Creator: unknown
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1906
Creator: unknown
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1900/1950
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding fan. Thin polished wood or bamboo guards lacquered a dark mahogany. The thin sticks are dyed purple. Paper leaf with hand-painted abstract design of flowers and foliage on a reddish ground. Metal bail. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels or marks. Gift of Mrs. Arthur Kramer, Sr., from the original Dallas Musuem of Fashion collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Happi

Happi

Date: 1900/1960
Creator: unknown
Description: Happi (Japanese traditional short coat) of indigo dyed heavy cotton or linen. Hip-length or slightly longer, with short sleeves. Center front opening with vertical bands on either side with starch paste resist design of Japanese characters. Back with large starch paste resist symbol at upper back, and linear maze-like design across main part of back, repeated at sides.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of off-white silk over straw base. The crown slightly rounded at top, covered in off-white silk, with ruching and folds around side. Affixed to sides of crown at various points are artificial flowers of various colors of velvet. The medium-width brim is circular, of woven straw, originally covered with off-white silk, now mostly perished. The inside of the crown is lined in off-white muslin, partly shattered, and the underside of the brim was originally lined in white silk, now mostly perished. There are no labels or marks in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of silk. The off-white silk crown is domed, with excess fabric forming a ruched band around the lower part of the crown. The front and sides of the crown are embellished with embroidery and needlework of large flowers and foliage in white. Around the base of the crown is a band of white grosgrain ribbon, with rosette and trailing ribbons at side. The medium-width oval brim is of white silk over stiffened mesh framework, with outer band formed by openwork stitching. The brim is set off-center to the crown, extending the farthest from side to side, and with more brim in front than at back. The underside of the brim is faced with black velvet. The hat is lined in white silk, now shattering. There are no labels or marks in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1904
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of dull golden horsehair mesh over wire framework. Cylindrical crown widening to base of horsehair constructed in a spiral, on wire armature. Side of crown with wide black velvet band with self bow at back. Slightly oval brim of same horsehair set so sides are wider than front or back. Brim slopes slightly from crown to outer rim, with thin wire framework to retain shape. Attached at sides are sprays of artificial flowers and leaves. Underside of brim lined with gathered extremely fine pale chiffon. Crown has inner rigid structure that extends below brim, creating a "support" that rests on wearer's head. Exterior of inner structure lined with black velvet, inner lining of white fabric with "drawstring" center gather. No labels or tags.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1905
Creator: unknown
Description: Little girl's Easter bonnet. Wired base with mushroom type top of black velvet and double ruffled brim of white lace. Small pink roses and green stems encircle hat above lace brim.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Kimono

Kimono

Date: [1900..1970]
Creator: unknown
Description: Kimono of burgundy red silk with printed all-over design of large butterflies in creams, tans, blues, etc. Lined in orange crepe silk. Padded hem. Hand-sewn.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Kimono

Kimono

Date: [1900..1950]
Creator: unknown
Description: Kimono of purple silk printed with designs of flowers, birds and butterflies in purples, blues, tans, reds, etc. Detailing in gold embroidery. With five white "mon" designs similar to a "yin-yang" shape of matched commas. Partly lined in red silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Date: 1900/1903
Creator: unknown
Description: Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mourning Fan

Mourning Fan

Date: 1900/1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design