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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Dress
Tunic dress of silk chiffon with under dress of silk knit. Tunic dress knee-length, with high-rounded neckline in front and deep, scooped, plunging neckline in back. Neckline edged with spaced large faux pearls. Long sleeves, and handkerchief hem. The tunic dress has overall-embellishment of white pearls, iridescent sequins, white seed pearls, silvered seed beads, bugle beads and crystal drops designed as New York skyline. Evidence that designer's label has been removed. The under dress of white silk knit is ankle-length, with high rounded front neckline and cowl back neckline with horizontal ties and crystal pendants. Handkerchief hemline. Designer's label at side seam: "Zandra Rhodes / London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283754/
Dress
a) Dress of silk knit with orange, pink, lime, purple, white and black motif. Signature of designer "Emilio" in fabric pattern. Round, bateau neckline; elbow length sleeves. Below knee length. Designer's label on inside back neckline: "Emilio Pucci / Florence - Italy / 100% Pure Silk / Made in Italy" Retailer's label below designer's label: "Made in Italy Exclusively For / Saks Fifth Avenue" Cleaning instructions and size tag at base of retailer's label. b) Tie belt of same fabric. Fringe of clear blue beads on ends. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286867/
Dress
Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool. The short, A-line dress with shallow boat-neckline, short, cap-sleeves. Front and back of dress with diamond-shaped motif created by slot seams with cream background/under layer. Similar seaming across top of sleeves and joining diamond motifs around sides. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at neckline. Lined in off-white silk(?). Designer's label: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" Retailer's label: "Made in France especially for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286912/
Dress
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/
Dress
Dress of black net with all over applique of strips of gold holographic foil and braided black netting. Calf length. Bodice top has a series of points. Three-quarter length sleeves of sheer black net. Skirt has five layers: appliqued over-skirt, three layers of black net and lining of light brown silk covered in black net. Center back zipper. Designer's label at side seam: "Pierre Balmain / Paris" Handwritten style number tag under designer's label: "172257" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283671/
Dress
Dress of green silk and hand beading. Bodice is green with netting ; V-neck; lace and beading detail on bodice. Strapless, with off-the-shoulder "cap sleeves" of black lace with green beaded floral motif; motif continues over full length skirt. Green sash attached to bodice. Side zipper closure. Designer's label: "Michael Faircloth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286938/
Dress
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multicolored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline. Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283760/
Dress
Dress of cashmere knit with motif in black, gray and pinks. Designer's signature of "Emilio" in the fabric print. Long sleeves; round, bateau neckline. Knee length. Center back zipper. Designer's label at inside right back: "Emilio Pucci / Florence - Italy / Made in Italy" Retailer's label on inside left back: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286787/
Dress
Dress of bright red wool. Sleeveless; jewel neckline; knee length. Empire waist with inserted panel, quilted and top-stitched. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Kick pleat opening at center front seam. Lined in bright orange silk. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286919/
Dress
Dress of red wool knit. Above-knee length, dress has a high band collar and long cuffed sleeves. Two large patch pockets at hips, and tie belt of same material. Center-back zipper. Red lace band inside at hem. Partly lined in red acetate(?) Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87065/
Dress
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30332/
Dress and Jacket Ensemble
Ensemble of burgundy crepe a) Jacket is hip-length, and has round collar; bodice opens at center front, and has wide waistband that fastens with 2 self-buttons and loops. Gathered into waistband is peplum with circular ruffle; long sleeves are gathered at armhole have circular ruffles going down and around sleeves; b) Dress is below-knee-lenght, and has low V-neck formed by wide shoulder straps which button to lower back of dress; set-in empire waistline; sleeveless; bias cut skirt; zipper at left side back. Designer's label: "Ossie Clark / Paris" "Made in France" Handwritten style label: "59115 - 38 - 97727/19.92" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286918/
Dress - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Kutchi Dress of the Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Full-length. Bodice of various fabrics and embellishments. Rounded neckline with slight standing/band collar of primarily yellow bead-work with blue bead squares containing red bead centers. "Collar" below neckline of pendant silver-colored coins. Shoulder areas of purple with primarily yellow stitching forming scroll-work. Front "bib" of dark red outlined with same bead-work as neckline, and sewn with 9 horizontal rows of green tear-drop shaped beads and a line of silver-colored coins. Center part of bodice of black fabric with all-over red reflective circles. Wide "waist" of dress with geometric bead-work band of white, green, red, blue, and orange, with band of small circular mirrors and two lower borders of fringe tipped with white and green beads, and lowest border of coins. Sleeves of dark green velvet with bands of rickrack of silver and gold, and stitching matching the shoulder areas. Edged with bead-work and with row of silver-colored coins. Skirt is full-length, and full, and is of dark blue/black fabric printed with white and grey pattern of small flower blossoms, paisley shapes, dots, leaves, etc. Hem of dress with wide embroidered band, upper section with horizontal band of squares of various colors (reddish, green, orange, pale green, purple), center band of yellow, and lower band of reddish/magenta. Unlined. No labels or tags. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276981/
Ensemble
Ensemble consisting of: A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom. Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos" B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net. Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos" C) A-line skirt, street length, in black and white gingham cotton. Narrow waist of black grosgrain. Left side zipper. Lined in cream colored silk. d) Contour belt covered in black and white gingham check. Square buckle covered in same. Three holes. Back in light tan leather. Stamped: "Galanos Originals / Beverly Hills" e) Hat of quilted black and white gingham check. Black satin headband ties in knot on right. Crown in smaller check than brim. Brim piped in black satin and slits at right beneath headband knot. Lined in alternating triangular sections of large and small gingham check. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Galanos / 935 (handwritten)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283773/
Ensemble
Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of: A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels. B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk. Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie" National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283689/
Ensemble
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30045/
Ensemble
Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of: A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283764/
Ensemble
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30050/
Ensemble
Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble from 1st collection. a) Coat of bright red/orange wool. Long sleeves and collared neckline. Double breasted with large, covered snaps on inside as closure. Two pockets formed from panels on coat. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" b) Dress . Bracelet length sleeves and jewel neckline. Knee length. Center front zipper. Hourglass shaped front panel forms pockets at left and right. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286926/
Ensemble
Ensemble. A) Brown sheath dress of lace with floral motif, heavily hand beaded with tiny brown beads. Mid-length, scooped neckline, deeper in back. Sleeveless, with narrow straps. Slightly shaped hem. Inner brown satin lining sheath. Design house's label inside: "Mingolini Gugenheim / Piazza di Spagna 9-91- Roma" B) Brown sheer organza coat, mid-length, shawl collar, center front opening fastened by belt. mid-length sleeves. Leather belt built into waistline, covered with organza, the hook buckles covered in brown beading as dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286803/
Ensemble
Evening ensemble of brown silk jersey and sequined appliques. A) Dress. Sleeveless, the full-length sheath dress has 1” wide straps which are embellished with length-wise decorative top stitching. The dress has an empire waist, and a modified sweetheart neckline. The bust is covered with floral/leaf form appliques which are covered in translucent brown sequins and edged in gold metallic thread. Center back zipper closure from top to mid-back, and slit from center back lower hem upwards. Lined in brown polyester. B) Jacket. The matching jacket is of bolero form, cropped short, with no collar and a slightly undulating neckline which continues along the edges of the center front opening, and the lower edge. Long sleeves have cuffs with same edging. The whole jacket is overlaid with floral/leaf form velvet appliques edged in metallic gold threading and covered with sequins in various shades of brown. Jacket has inner shoulder pads and is lined in brown polyester. Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286793/
Ensemble - Blouse and Pants
Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants. The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes. The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style. Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France". The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, based on the particular way that the shibori tye-dying technique has been used on the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30096/
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble of gold and silver Lurex knit consisting of blouse and skirt. Long sleeved blouse with round neckline and ties at wrists. Trimmed at lower hem with wide black ribbon which ties at side. Matching full-length skirt. On both pieces the knitting is done to simulate the effect of fine pleating. Each piece has designer label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30223/
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble. The skirt is of heavy gold felt covered with black floral lace, which has been heavily "beaded" with sequins. Side zipper closure, and two side-seam pockets. Retailer's label inside skirt on side seam: "Neiman-Marcus". With black velvet belt, which is marked on reverse: "16 Charming Belts. 6406", "This / 'Bac-A-Belt' backing / guaranted by / Good Housekeeping" / wash or clean / as garment". The accompanying blouse is of black silk jersey with half length sleeves and gathered detail at scoop neckline. Center back zipper closure that extends full length of the garment. Inner waistband of grosgrain ribbon with hook and eye closure. No labels in blouse. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30004/
Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851" From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30084/
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246" This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972. The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must look like the light shining through the stained glass windows of the Chapel." The ensemble has a matching pair of shoes by Roger Viver made of fabric in the same print. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30152/
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble consisting of a coat and dress. The mid-length coat is of knit with a printed pattern of blue geometric shapes on a bright red ground, and has long sleeves and moderate collar with rounded points. Center-front opening with 4 square dark blue plastic buttons. Across back of coat is an attached belt of the same fabric, with buttons at each side, but does not extend around to the front. Fully lined in dark blue fabric. The mid-length dress is of the same fabric, and has short sleeves, a rounded neckline, and flares slightly to hem. The dress has a center-back zipper closure and is lined in the same fabric as the coat. Coat has a single retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" inside back at collar. Dress has slightly smaller version of same label, sewn inside at left of zipper near neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30209/
Ensemble - Coat and Skirt
Ensemble. Coat and matching skirt (not shown) of woven upholstery-weight fabric with stylized floral and geometric designs in burgundy and blue/black on a creme ground. Coat is mid-length, flaring slightly to hem, with long sleeves and a center-front opening. The opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a curly "lamb's wool" died burgundy to match the pattern. Fully lined in burgundy silk(?) With separate sash/belt. Labels in coat: Designer's label "Anne Klein" with lion logo; Dallas, Texas retailer's label "Marie Leavell". Not shown is skirt in matching fabric, mid-length, with no trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30196/
Ensemble - Dress and Bolero Jacket
Ensemble. The dress is of ivory wool, full-length, and sleeveless with a scoop-neck. Slightly A-line, with a slit at left side from hem up 18". Neckline is lower in back than front, and there is a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label in dress at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York". The accompanying bolero jacket is of red-orange with long sleeves. The cuffs, mandarin collar, hem, and center-front opening are edged with a wide band of off-white fur (fox or mink?). The jacket is decorated with closely-sewn rhinestones. The jacket is fully lined in cream fabric, and has a single hook-and-eye closure near throat. The jacket has no labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30222/
Ensemble - Dress and Bolero Jacket
Evening ensemble in orange and taupe crepe. The sleeveless, full-length dress is of taupe crepe, and has a "V" neckline in front and a deep "V" in back. Around high waist is a wide band of orange crepe outlined in gold braid and oval simulated pearls. The band is heavily beaded in faux coral and turquoise beads in various patterns and floral motifs. The bodice of the dress gathers into the front of the band, and has a zipper and hook-and-eyes closure at left side. The Bolero jacket is of the orange crepe. The cropped jacket has a rounded neckline and long sleeves. The neckline, center front opening, and lower hem is heavily beaded to match the band on the dress, with added faux turquoise beading in floral forms on the front panels of the jacket. No labels in either garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30211/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Dress and coat of peacock feathers. The short, sleeveless dress is entirely covered with peacock breast feathers, accented with a 1" band of blue cording and chenille trim at neckline and with blue cord spaghetti straps. It is fully lined with navy polyester. The long, sleeveless coat is covered with peacock herl / flue feathers. It has a round neckline, and no closure. These pieces are part of a larger ensemble, consisting of a total of 9 pieces decorated with peacock and/or golden pheasant feathers. Worn to the Emmy Awards ceremony in Los Angeles, California, April 1976. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30293/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30014/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of green leather jacket and green and black striped knit dress with green leather belt. The sheath-style street-length dress is of wool jersey with a knitted pattern of horizontal green and black stripes. It has very short sleeves and a wide boat neckline, and is unlined. The dress has an accompanying green leather belt that ends in fringe. The street-length coat is of matching green leather, with long sleeves and tuxedo collar that extends to lower hem. The center-front opening has no closures, and there is a welt pocket at each side seam. The coat is lined in the same fabric the dress is made from, and faces the tuxedo collar and opening. There are no designer labels in the garments, and the coat has retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30009/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
(At Right) Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with bust darts, there is an attached bow of the same fabric just below the bust on the front. Slightly dropped waist, with box pleating from waist down the skirt. At front there are two box pleats that start at bow and continue down the front of the dress. Center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. It has 3/4-length sleeves and no collar. The center-front opening has no closures. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". The Spring/Summer 1956 line was called the Flèche ("Arrow")Line. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows ensemble as displayed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30071/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30274/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket of brown and white printed silk plaid or tartan. The waist-length jacket has a turn-down collar and wrist-length sleeves. It is single-breasted with a center front opening with four large circular brown plastic buttons and piped buttonholes. The jacket is fully lined in off-white silk. Designer's label located inside below center back of collar: "Made in / France / Givenchy". The matching dress is mid-length, to just below the knee, with round neck and princess seaming. It is sleeveless, and has box pleats at lower part of skirt. There is a zipper closure at left side. The dress is lined with off-white silk throughout with the exception of the box pleated area. Designer's label at inside side seam near right armhole: "Givenchy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30165/
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Evening ensemble of a dress, jacket and belt. The full-length sleeveless evening dress is of black silk, with a slim silhouette. It has a wide, shallow V-neck at front, and has decorative twist in the fabric at back, which creates a deeper V. The wide straps are ruched at front with non-functional rhinestone-encrusted clasps sewn to them. The bodice has decorative seaming under bust and around the hips. The dress has a black silk belt with a rhinestone-encrusted "buckle", which functions as a large hook-and-eye rather than a buckle. The jacket is of matching black silk, lined with a cream-colored taffeta. The short, bell-shaped sleeves have a second "layer" creating the effect of a wide ruffle. Padded tubes of silk curve along each shoulder, tapering under the arm at front and back. There is a center front opening with no closure, which is "cut away" in a curve at front, giving the overall effect of a miniature 'cropped' opera cape. No labels in either garment. Possibly acquired by Ms. Hewett in France in the 1930's while studying medieval music manuscripts. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30154/
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. The accompanying straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". This garment reflects Adrian's celebration of the lifting of wartime restrictions on types and quantities of materials and trimmings that could be used in making clothes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30229/
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt and Blouse
Suit in hot pink nubbly wool knit. The ensemble consists of three pieces: a jacket, matching skirt, and black silk shell. The jacket is hip-length, with a shawl collar which has an attached black silk tie. The center front closure has 6 circular brass buttons with central embossed lion's heads and black outer edges. There are four faux flap pockets at front, two on each side of opening, each with button matching those of the closure. The long sleeves have simulated closure, with a line of three buttons matching others on each sleeve. The pocket flaps, cuffs, collar, center front, and hem are all edged in black. Designer's label sewn inside jacket at collar: "Adolfo / New York", with retailer's label sewn in just below: "Neiman-Marcus". The matching skirt is below-knee length, of the same pink wool knit, with pleating beginning 7" below waistband and extending to hem. Skirt has designer's label sewn inside at waistband as jacket. The accompanying black silk blouse is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Single black silk -covered button closure at back of neck. Shell has designer's label sewn inside at left of closure as jacket. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30285/
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt, Blouse and Scarf
Ensemble of teal silk Ottoman. The suit consists of a jacket and skirt, blouse, and scarf. The jacket is of horizontally ribbed teal silk, banded on the bias, has a rounded neckline, is long sleeved, and has princess seaming for a tailored fit. The sleeves have soft pleating at the shoulders, and there are 3 circular gold buttons set with rhinestones at each cuff. There is a center front closure with 4 large buttons matching the style of sleeve buttons and one hidden snap at top. The buttonholes are hidden in the seam of the opening. The jacket is lined in black silk. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back of neck: "Richard Brooks". The matching skirt is of the same silk Ottoman, below-knee length, with soft pleats at front and darts at back from waistband down 5 1/2". Small slit at center back from hem upwards. The sides are cut on straight vertical stripe. The waistband has hook and two eyes, and there is a center back zipper closure. The skirt is lined in teal silk. There are no labels in the skirt. The blouse is of a thin teal green and metallic gold jacquard, woven with an ornate all-over paisley pattern. There is a banded collar and slight pleating/gathering on front at yoke, and at top of the long sleeves. Center back zipper closure extends from collar almost to hem, and has two hook-and-eyes at collar. The blouse has attached shoulder pads. There is no label in the blouse. An accompanying scarf is of iridescent teal silk chiffon, edged with the same jacquard materials the blouse is made from. There is no label on the scarf. Designed for Texas Governor Ann Richards. The silk is from Abraham Fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30305/
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirts and Blouse
Ensemble of rose silk. The suit consists of a jacket, two skirts and a blouse. The jacket is made from a 1930's sari of pale pink silk embroidered with gold and silver threads, beads, and pink sequins in designs of vines, flowers and abstract line patterns. Jacket has a floating yoke and full leg-o-mutton sleeves with long narrow cuffs that have zipper closures. The jacket itself has a center front opening with no closure. The neckline, edges of closure, hem, and cuffs are edged in heavily beaded bands added by the designer. Designer's label sewn inside back at neck: "Richard Brooks". The blouse is of heavy pink silk, collarless, with round neckline. It is short-sleeved, with pleating at the shoulder. Vertical seaming on front and back for structure. There is a concealed center-back closure with snap at top and 5 clear plastic circular buttons down the length. The blouse is lined in a dark, dusty pink silk and has sewn-in shoulder pads. Designer's label is sewn inside back to the left of the opening: "Richard Brooks". The two skirts are are both of identical pink silk, matching the blouse, of identical construction. One is knee-length, and the other is full-length. Both are lined in the same pink silk as the jacket. The short skirt has designer's label sewn in at waistband: "Richard Brooks". Worn by Governor Ann Richards when she spoke at the Gridiron Club in Washington, 1992. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30304/
Ensemble - Nightgown and Robe
Ensemble consisting of a nightgown and robe of cream or pale peach nylon. Full-length robe with short sleeves and limp ruff collar. Opens down center front with hook-and-eye closure at waist and attached belt. Matching full-length nightgown is sleeveless, with wide straps. Nightgown opens at side with hook-and-eye closures and has string belt. Both pieces of the ensemble are fully accordion pleated on all parts. Robe has tag "Vanity Fair Nylon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30066/
Ensemble - Vest and Pants
Ensemble consisting of a vest and pants. The vest is of wool,with a scoop-neck and with 5 hook-and-eye closures down center front. It is covered in sewn-on black sequins, and has a 1" border of orange, white and gold beads with gold trim at neckline, front opening, hem, and armholes. On the front and back of the vest are 3" diamond shapes formed of the same beads. The white and orange beads are plastic. The vest is fully lined in black fabric. Labels in vest: "Valentina LTD / RN 34435 / Made in Hong Kong"; "100% Wool / Made in Hong Kong"; and "Medium". The pants are formed as a divided skirt of black wool in a satin weave simulating crepe-back satin. They are floor length, with full-length accordion pleats. There is a wide 3" waistband that is completely beaded to match the vest. The pants have a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband, and are unlined. Inside the pants is a single tag at waistband: "Lot Number 11/12". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30302/
Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts
Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt. First image shows: a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell". b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York". c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". The second image shows: a) Vest, described above. b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30187/
Eugenie Hat
Eugenie style hat of wine colored felt and velour with shallow crown. Ostrich plumes at crown. Label inside hat: "Lorie" Label inside hat: "Reproduction 'illegible' / Madame Lucy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Size label: "registered model / 22 1/2" Label inside hat: "Millinery Creators Guild" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114820/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of gold metallic brocade in a floral motif with multicolored rectangles. Cocoon-style, with white fox collar, the full-length barrel sleeves with matching fur trimmed cuffs. The coat has a single button closure, and pink silk satin lining. Label: "Hattie Moss, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29999/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of black and gold brocade in a large scale tropical motif. The wrap-style coat has a shawl collar of red fox fur with kimono style sleeves trimmed in fox. The coat is fully lined in gold silk velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29997/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of black, metallic silver, and metallic gold brocade in a geometric "Byzantine" design. Full-length, with no collar and with 3/4 length sleeves. Center-front opening with 6 hammered brass buttons and loop button-holes. The center front opening, shoulders, and cuffs are accented with gold braid which has rhinestones set along the length. The coat is lined in yellow/orange silk crepe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30123/
Evening Dress
Cream silk jersey evening dress / ballgown with beaded decoration and matching belt. A) Full-length gown, bodice embellished with hand-embroidered stylized leaves/buds in cream on a ground of silver, green, and mauve beads. Shoulders and thin collar with solid fields of beading. Short, wide sleeves edged with silver and clear beads. Center back opening with hook-and-eyes at top and bottom, no closure along mid-back. Plain cream silk jersey skirt, gathered into waist. Closure at right hip, with band of hook-and-eyes along back waistline, and series of hidden snaps down from waistline. Bodice lined in silk gauze, skirt lined in heavier cream silk. Inner grosgrain ribbon waistband with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside waistband: "Givenchy"; under designer's label is hidden design/style # tag with handwritten notation: "54783" B) Belt of cream silk gauze-backed silk jersey, 2" wide x 30" long, completely covered in beading matching bodice. Hook-and-eye closure at ends. No marks/labels on belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87027/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black and white satin. Long torso fitted top. Sleeveless, with wide boat neck of black satin. Zipper down the back. Full harem skirt of black, white, and grey striped and dotted silk with one large black satin bow at hip line and another bow of same at the hem of the short, "balloon" style skirt. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris" and "Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114831/