Black silk velvet bonnet with 6 large velvet loops on crown with large matching bow in front and black jet beads trimmed on rim. Black silk ribbon ties. Black silk lining.
Hat in bonnet style of black straw with downward heart shaped brim; top edge of brim trimmed in black jet beads; brown silk violet flowers and black lace accent on front. 7/8" Black taffeta ribbon ties under chin. Under brim covered with black faille.
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of ivory kidskin leather. The shoes, designed with slightly rounded toes, button closed along outer side, with 8 domed leather-covered buttons on each shoe. Edge along buttons is scalloped, as is the upper edge of the boot. The The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, and taper slightly to base. Left Shoe markings: "Excelsior"
Boy's blue and beige/white plaid linen ankle length fitted dress. Long narrow sleeves; ruffle of fabric at the wrist. Narrow turn over collar. Dress gored front and back. Bound in velvet crossed over buttoning up the front to high neck. Double ruffles at bottom of skirt. Trimmed with velvet ribbon and jet black buttons. Lined in muslin. Plaid fabric is indigo dyed, and most likely velvet cording is also indigo dyed.
Chemise of white cotton, wide round neckline trimmed with narrow band of lace, flutter sleeves trimmed in lace, at center front a round bib connected to the neckline, perhaps serving as a dickey, loose silhouette, knee length
Chemise of off-white cotton with delicate embroidered, open-work lace at trim and bib insert; fabric is gathered at center-front below bib; pin tucks at hem; sleeveless and full-length.
Child's dress of tan flannel with front panel of brown velvet. Long sleeves with 3" cuff of brown velvet. Turndown collar of brown velvet with pointed ends and neckline trimmed in ivory lace; collar partially detaches on right and secures with a hook & eye. Patch pockets at sides of brown velvet. Front panel has 10 tortoise shell buttons to left of panel and right side opening of 11 matching buttons with barred buttonholes. Gored in back with six small pleats at bottom of back. Hem of garment has pleated 4-1/2" border of self trimmed with 1-1/2" band of brown velvet. Lined in tan cotton.
Child's dress of black wool with red paisley trim. Full length dress, with turned down collar of paisley print. Long sleeves with 4" cuffs trimmed in matching paisley print. Center front opening with 15 nonfunctional paisley covered buttons with hook & eyes underneath. Side pockets trimmed in paisley print. Center back panel is gathered at waist to give slight bustle effect and is belted in paisley print with oval buckle in black ribbed fabric. Lined in brown polished cotton.
Child's dress of black & tan woven cotton check/plaid. Full-length, with high, rounded collar. Set in black taffeta full-length sleeves with wide cuffs of the black/tan check, secured with two mother of pearl buttons each. Natural waist. Hem with wide band of ruffled black taffeta and a plain band of black taffeta running slightly above hem. Patch pocket at right hip composed of plaid panels formed as a "vest", with black taffeta ruffle filling in center, and three non-functioning circular mother of pearl buttons on slight curve following edge of "vest" front non-functioning opening. Center back opening with 9 circular mother of pearl buttons and hook & loop at neckline.
Christening gown of white cotton batiste. Yoke is vertical bands of drawn work and eyelet in pineapple(?) pattern. Bottom of yoke has ruffle of scalloped eyelet lace. Long sleeves have ruffled hem matching yoke. Ruched at back waist. Rounded neckline is bound and trimmed in lace. Skirt has 14 rows of drawn work with 3" scalloped eyelet trim in floral pattern at hem. Center back closure of two buttons on yoke with draw strings at neckline and back ruching.
Collar / blouse breast panel of red wool (possibly trade cloth or Stroud cloth from England) with beading. Possibly Algonquin or Iroquois. Oblong, slightly rectangular “O” created with U-shaped panel and rectangle of newer fabric added at one end. Fragments of black silk grosgrain ribbon along inside and outside perimeter, accented every ½” with three light blue and one dark blue seed beads sewn at a slight angle. Organic, floral all-over design created with blue, green, yellow, and pink seed beads applied primarily in rows of three differing colors, symmetrical on the U-shaped panel. U-shaped panel unlined, rectangular panel lined in twill fabric of natural material.
Panel from white cotton petticoat with 4" gathered ruffle at hem over straight hem of petticoat. Flounce has four rows of pin tucks above gathered panel with three rows of three pin tucks with 4" border of lace at hem.
Folding fan with mother-of-pearl sticks and guards. Leaf of white needlepoint lace backed with cream satin. Silver-colored "U" shaped bail ring at bottom.
Folding fan of bone and satin. Guards and sticks of bone, intricately carved with pierced latticework. Plain off-white silk satin leaf. Chased metal bail ring at pivot with mother-of-pearl beads. Off-white silk tassel tied to bail. Inscribed on silk leaf along one guard: "Hood W. [illeg.] / June 5th /73"; other inscriptions on other guard, too fragile to examine.
Folding fan with mother-of-pearl sticks and guards. Leaf of white needlepoint lace backed with champaign satin. Silver-colored "U" shaped bail ring at bottom. Measurements: Guard: 27 cm long x 2.8 cm wide; Open: 50 cm across
Girl's dress of blue calico cotton with white print. Stand up collar. Inset waist with long, gathered skirt. Long sleeves gathered at wrist with drawstrings. Center front opening with 8 button closure. Bodice lined with what may be sugar sack fabric; skirt unlined. Skirt is 33" long with 22" waist.
Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin. Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099).
Kimono, possibly of western manufacture or has been altered. Pale pink silk with sparse embroidery of green vines and pink flowers. There are tassels on the sleeves. A panel between the back and front on the side.
Boots of metallic gold gilded leather with 1/2" heel, round toes and scallops at side opening; ankle-length; higher in front and dip at back. Gilded at a later date. Boy's boots. size 6 1/2 (14 1/2cm)
Traditional eskimo (Inuit, Iñupiat, or Yupik) maklak or kamik boots of brown and white fur trimmed with bands of green leather at top and white fur with inserted black fur dots below the green. Straps of leather for securing the boots wrap around the ankles and across the vamp and tie at the front of the ankle; hide soles.
Remnant of nightgown front of white cotton, bib shaped, high neckline with light blue silk satin ribbon, center front placket with button closure, bib trimmed in white cotton ruffled fabric surrounding alternating rows of light blue silk satin ribbons and rectangular panels of whitework floral cotton, only collar and front.
Ladies oxford style shoes of brown-purple soft leather with silk fabric vamp, and silk shoe laces. Opera heels. Scalloped detail on leather elements. Fringed tongue.
Drawstring reticule of cream crochet embroidered with transparent, green and a few pink beads, and opaque black cut beads, in an abstract design with three leaf clovers and four leaf clovers; rope drawstring.
Man's detachable collar of blue narrow vertical striped seersucker. Inner layers of same fabric, but with stripes going horizontally. Stamped on reverse: "15 2"
Pair of shoes of ivory kid leather. Rounded toes, with stitched detailing on tongues and with applied leather bow at instep with many "loops" creating large "poof". Shoes of ivory kid leather. Short, modified Louis heel covered with same leather. Stamped inside left Shoe: "Mayer & Stern/ Phila. / Centennial / 1776-1876"
Formal tea gown of green print cotton in multicolored floral print and pink satin cuffs, bodice and tucks at side. Watteau pleats down center back. Long sleeves with 6-1/2" fitted cuffs. Slightly trained. Lined in olive green polished cotton; boning at waist.
Man's tuxedo/formal shirt of white cotton with bib and cuffs of white pique cotton. Long vented sleeves with French cuffs. Banded neckline for detachable collar with plastic tab at back of neckline. Back opening with single button closure. Stamped at center front below waist: Mitoga / Kirk 28 / 848 15 2 33 Neck bears the laundry mark initials for Jonathan Hampton Kuykendall: JHK
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