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 Country: United States
 Decade: 1980-1989
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ballgown

Ballgown

Date: 1985/1989
Creator: De la Renta, Oscar
Description: Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ballgown

Ballgown

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: Christian Dior New York, Inc.
Description: Ballgown of dark, navy blue ribbed satin. Strapless. Center front opening with 14 self-covered buttons, top two nonfunctional, with bound buttonholes. At upper bust, to left and right of center front opening, are attached paired flaps of self fabric giving appearance of patch pockets with flaps. Skirt gathers at natural waist with full skirt. Gored panels to left and right of center back seam of skirt. Inner bodice of black net with boning and black grosgrain ribbon petersham; closes at center front with 9 hook & eyes. Unlined. Designer's label at center back seam near hem: "Christian Dior - New York / Original / Trade Mark" Hanging straps on bodice are embroidered "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1989
Creator: Mouratidis, Michael, 1920-2002
Description: Evening coat of brocade and fur. The full-length coat is of a pale yellow silk brocade, with a pattern of flowers and scrolls in reds, purples, blues, white, silver, and gold. It has long sleeves and opens along the center front, with no closures. The cuffs and collar are wide bands of dyed purple fox fur. The coat is lined in a pale tan/yellow silk. Sewn in below collar at inside center back is designer's label: "Designed / by Mouratidis / Washington DC" Attached inside right side near hip is original paper label printed on one side "Balenciaga / Paris", and written on the back "Brocade evening mystery / coat w/fox / R". Donated to the Texas Fashion Collection by Helen Noumas, in memory of her partner Michael Mouratidis, designer of the piece.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1983
Creator: Beene, Geoffrey
Description: Coat of black wool felt lined in cream wool. Street-length, with center front opening and no closures. Rounded high neckline, with no collar, but "corners" of opening flap open to form lapels showing the cream lining. 3/4 length dolmen sleeves with tapered extensions forming 7" "cuffs". Two slit pockets at hips in side seams. The coat appears reversible, but the placement of tags and lack of access to pockets from interior indicates otherwise. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Geoffrey Beene" Care label at inside right side seam: "Dry Clean / Only" Size label attached to Care label: "4" With accompanying black leather belt, with 1" wide sections at ends, and wide 3 1/2" wide "waved" shaped section at center back. Rectangular silver-colored buckle. Stamped on reverse: "4" "Geoffre / Beene" "1021"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1980~
Creator: Fendi
Description: Coat of deep purple dyed fox fur pieced and sewn in a chevron pattern. Two buttons of black plastic with brown leather loop closure. Coat folds over at back neckline creating a slight lapel at front. Long sleeves were custom tailored by folding under to create a shorter length. Below hip-length. Lined in black silk with four words, "FENDI, ALTA, MODA, PRONTA", in brown print forming a diamond shape. Lining embroidered at right side: "Linda T. Anderson". Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" Fiber content tag at left side seam.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: [1980..1999]
Creator: Kerr, Pat
Description: Cocktail dress of black and pale pink acetate with black tulle lace over vest of bust and on trim of sleeves and hem; three-quarter length sleeves with gathering at shoulders, elasticized at forearms, and 4” lace trim; bodice has vest of pale pink acetate with over-layer of black tulle lace; scalloped, soft V-neckline; skirt of black acetate gathered into a satin ribbon at hem trimmed in scalloped lace; below knee-length; center-back zip closure. Designer's label: "Pat Kerr / One / Cumberland Place / London"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1980~
Creator: Brooks, Donald
Description: Cocktail dress of black heavy wool crepe. Deep V-neckline trimmed with wide bands of various sized pearls, the bands extending to waistline. Long sleeves with zipper closure at ends. Mid-length skirt is gathered into natural waistline. Hook & eye closures at along deep center back opening (top, center, lower back); which is accented with pearls as front. Zipper closure at center back below waistband. Sewn-in shoulder pads. Fully lined in black silk(?) Designer's label at inside left beside opening: "Donald Brooks" Retailer's label at inside left, by shoulder pad: "Joske's / Houston"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Cocktail Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1988/1989
Creator: Costa, Victor
Description: Cocktail suit of royal blue douppioni silk, consisting of:. A) Long jacket with Nehru collar; slightly fitted. Front, opening, hem, cuffs, shoulders, pockets, and back yoke elaborately embellished with white embroidery, white seed beading, and ribbon work in floral patterns. Long sleeves. Center-front opening with zipper. Side welt pockets. Lined in white satin synthetic(?); shoulder pads. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Victor Costa" "Made in USA" tag behind designer's label. Content/care/size label at side seam, 100% silk. B) Straight skirt of matching royal blue douppioni silk. Below knee length. Center back zipper with hook & bar on 1" waistband. Lined in royal blue silk synthetic. Designer's label to left of zipper: "Victor Costa" Tag behind designer label: "Crafted With Pride / in U.S.A" Content/care tag behind designer label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1985/1990
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Day dress of printed golden yellow silk patterned overall with purple, orange and red flowers, green leaves, and black dots. The knee-length dress has a jewel neckline and padded shoulders. The long sleeves have 3" zippered cuffs. The dress has a dropped waist with three-tier, knife pleated skirt. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in yellow organza. Designer's label at left underarm: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right underarm: "I. Magnin" Care label to right of retailer's label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1985
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Day dress of black crepe with yellow-gold print. Round neck, plain front, bodice gathered at shoulder seams, with sleeves cut full at shoulder and narrowing to zippered wrists. Bodice is blouson style drop-waist over short slim skirt. Skirt is topped by a single ruffle which starts at left side and zig-zags around, often going underneath itself. Center back closure of two zippers, one for over-blouse and one for the fitted dress bodice beneath it. Inside is fully lined with couture seams. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Care label: "Professional / Dry Clean / Only"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: Parnis, Mollie
Description: Dress of black silk taffeta. Mid-length, with shallow boat neckline and natural waistline. Long, full sleeves are gathered into shoulders and into tops of wide cuffs, which have five cloth-covered buttons. Front bodice with bust darts and a vertical opening secured by cross laces through nine pairs of silver-colored grommets set with tiny rhinestones. Skirt gathered into waist, and has pockets at sides. Center back zipper with top hook and eye. Fully lined. Designer label at back collar by zipper: Mollie Parnis Boutique / New York Retailer label obscured by bottom hem: Saks Fifth Avenue
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1980
Creator: McFadden, Mary
Description: Dress of off-white silk. Ankle-length dress with V neckline at front and back with piped edge and with long, lightly puffed sleeves supported by small pads. Hem and sleeves with fine rolled hems. At front is a wide, dropped, cross-over band at waist which repeats at back, the back forming a yoke into which the skirt gathers. Lapped zipper closure on left side. The entire garment has pleating inspired by the designs of Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo,(May 11, 1871–May 3, 1949) Acquired by the donor at the Fort Worth, Texas, branch of Neiman Marcus.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress of violet, pink, blue and grey silk chiffon printed in a rose motif. Full-length, with rounded neckline and full-length sleeves that flare and are split at wrist. Skirt gathered at natural waist. Skirt with middle layer of dark pink chiffon, and inner lining layer of pink nylon(?). Center back opening, bodice with 7 button and loops and 8 covered snaps, and one hook-and-eye at neck. Skirt with 2 covered snaps on outer layer, zipper for attached inner layers, and hook-and-loop just below waistband. Designer's label at inside back, just below waist: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori" Retailer's label at inside back, below waist: "Neiman-Marcus" Size label attached to designer's label: "12" With a chiffon scarf, of fabric matching outer layer of dress.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: Parnis, Mollie
Description: Dress of red silk crepe. Collarless, V-shaped neckline. Empire waistline with knotted tie at center front having trailing, pointed ends. Long bishop sleeves with decorative tie cuffs and two snaps for closure. Below knee length; flared skirt. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in red silk. Designer's label at left of zipper at neckline: "Mollie Parnis Boutique / New York" Retailer's label at right of zipper at neckline: "Del Ann's / Dallas" Cleaning instructions and union label on center back seam of lining below zipper.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1985
Creator: Halston
Description: Dress of blue chiffon. The floor-length dress is formed of two layers, an inner sheath, and an outer layer which is fully ruched, covering the inner sheath completely with layers of draping, and affixed to the inner layer at the neckline, zipper, and at cuffs. The dress has a V-neck at both front and back. The ruching forms "swags" which join at the neckline and center seams on front and back. The three-quarter length sleeves are similarly ruched, anchored along seams running from shoulder to wrist. Center back zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Inner grosgrain ribbon band just below bust which secures with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label sewn inside at ribbon band: "Halston".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress in shift style of violet, blue and pink flower motif silk with outer layer of black chiffon. Attached cape overlay on back in black chiffon with matching flower motif. Square neck elasticized at shoulders scoops in back; elbow length butterfly sleeves of black chiffon. Center back zipper with hook & eye on dress and covered snaps on cape. Lined in black rayon. Designer's label at back neckline: "(Japanese characters) / Hanae Mori" Size "10" tag attached to base of designer label. Content/care label at back neckline. Retailer's label on center back seam of dress near hem: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1981
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress of pale green/gray polyester chiffon with woven-in satin stripes, and printed with clusters of floral sprays in green, purples, pinks, and white. Below-knee-length, with wide, rounded neckline and flounce of same fabric as ruffle around neckline. Long sleeves with ruffle cuffs of same fabric. Skirt gathers slightly into natural waistline with sewn-in gathered elastic band with two "string" belt loops. A ruffle/flounce of same fabric is around lower part of skirt, the upper edge of which is about knee-height at left side, and curving down to right edge. Center back opening with 5 self-covered buttons-and-loops above waist, hook and eye at neckline and waist, and a single hidden snap below waist. Built-in shoulder pads. Torso lined in green rayon. Designer's label at inside left back neckline: "Hanae Mori" Care/content/size/origin label directly below designer's label: Outer layer, 100% polyester, lining 100% rayon, size 8, made in Japan, dry clean only". Retailer's label at inside right back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" With sash belt of purple/orchid satin ribbon; 2-1/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress of turquoise blues and shades of pink silk chiffon with beaded bodice. The full-length dress has 3 pink petal flowers, one wraps around left side bodice, one at center-front hemline, and other at center-back hemline of skirt; the pattern of the petals continues beyond the flowers in shades of turquoise blue; round neckline and hemlines are cut along the petal shapes; bodice is accented with bugle beads in self-colors throughout; long sleeves; unstructured silhouette; fully lined in rayon; center-back zip and hook and eye closure. No Designer label. Fabric/care label inside back at upper neckline: "OUT CLOTH 100% SILK / LINING 100% RAYON / Size / MADE IN JAPAN / DRY CLEANING ONLY" Retailer's label below fabric/care label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress of silk chiffon in blue flower motif on red background. About knee-length, the dress has a scoop neckline and butterfly sleeves. Waistline tucks and straight skirt. Center back opening with closure of two snaps with small bow of self as trim. Lined in red rayon. Designer's label at back neckline: "Hanae Mori / Tokyo New York" Retailer's label to right of designer label: "Neiman-Marcus" Fiber content, cleaning instructions and size "8" label to left of center back opening. With a matching scarf/sash of same fabric.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1985
Creator: Simpson, Adele & Hobson, Donald
Description: Front-wrap dress of taupe check wool flannel. V-neck with pointed collar and notched lapel. Long sleeves with 2-1/2" cuffs and closure of two brown, circular button and tailored buttonholes. Side, wide welt pockets. Mid-calf length. Taupe grosgrain ribbon petersham; padded shoulders. Skirt lined in taupe synthetic; bodice unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Adele Simpson" Size "12" tag, "100% Wool" and cleaning instructions tag on side seam. With accompanying belt of same fabric; 2" wide with self-covered buckle.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1985~
Creator: Beene, Geoffrey
Description: Dress of black net with white swirls. Short capped, raglan sleeves; bateau neckline. Swirls in shape of flowers at right shoulder. Knee length under layer; top layer 1" above under layer with slit from hem to chest on right side. Braiding around neckline extends across front and back left shoulder to form trailing ends to hemline. Slit pocket at right side seam of inner layer. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Geoffrey Beene / New York" Union label, "Dry Clean Only" and size "6" tags at bottom of interior pocket flap.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989
Creator: Beene, Geoffrey
Description: Dress of synthetic taffeta in black polka dots on white background. Scoop neck; knee length. Sleeveless; back of dress is halter cut. False attached vest with solid black knit insets, stitched in silver metallic thread and trimmed in silver metallic ribbon. Front of dress is black knit, V-shaped with curved flat pleats at each side of the V at waist. Center back hidden zipper. Lined ivory crepe synthetic (polyester?). Designer's label at center back to right of zipper: "Geoffrey Beene / New York" Size "6" tag, cleaning instructions and union label attached to base of zipper.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress of printed silk chiffon in floral pattern of shades of aqua and turquoise blue with purple and magenta pansies. Rounded neckline; street length. Long straight sleeves have self-covered snap closure. Natural waist has elastic waistband and gathered skirt. Belt loops at sides; belt missing. Center back closure of nine self-covered snaps. Lined in beige synthetic. Designer's label at left side seam under arm: "(Japanese Characters) / Hanae Mori" Size "12" tag at base of designer label. Retailer's label at right side seam under arm: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress of silk chiffon printed with a grey and purple flower motif. Round neckline; long sleeves with 1" cuffs and closure of two self-covered snaps. Below knee length. Skirt gathers at natural waist with elastic waistband. Waistband has narrow belt loops; belt missing. Center back opening of six self-covered snaps with hook & eye at neckline. Bodice lined in gray silk chiffon; skirt lined in gray synthetic. Designer's label at left side seam of skirt lining: "(Japanese characters) / Hanae Mori" Size "10" tag attached to base of designer label. Retailer's label to left of designer label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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