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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat

Hat

Date: 1962
Creator: unknown
Description: "Lampshade" style hat of black straw or raffia. The basically conical hat is woven of a black straw material, with flattened top. On the front of the hat, off-set to the left, is affixed a wide black velvet ribbon from the top edge of the crown down to almost the brim. Sewn to the ribbon at top is a circular stamped metal brooch set with 17 large circular rhinestones in three concentric circles. The hat is lined in black net, with inner black grosgrain hatband. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is manufacturer's label: "Edette / Exclusive / New York - Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1955
Creator: Schiaparelli, Elsa
Description: Toque of fuschia felt. Cylindrical hat is covered in a fuschia/dark pink felt with over-lapping layers simulating a turban. Flattened top with slight ridge. The whole is covered in blue, green, and pink lines of stitching which radiate from the center of the crown outwards and down the sides. At the back of the hat is a bow of blue and red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, but has a red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Jeans

Jeans

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Wrangler
Description: Pair of commercially produced Wrangler denim jeans that were found in the southern Rocky mountains across from Red River, New Mexico in the late 1960's. The pants had been bleached in irregular patterns by the sun, and had various worn and torn places. After discovery, the Wranglers were embellished with red velour fabric pieces to cover some of the worst structural damage, and with a commercially available embroidered butterfly patch added below waistband at center back. Labels: Evidence of rectangular tag having been sewn on right-side back pocket. Both back pockets have "W" stitching; Fly button engraved "Wrangler"; Tag sewn inside fly: "Wrangler / 30 x 34 / Sanforized / Made in U.S.A."; Zipper pull stamped "Gripper Zipper" and "Pat Pending"; Marked on left front pocket, inside pants: "GDW"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1935
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of black and purple diagonal woven stripe taffeta. It has a V- neckline in front and back, and has a fitted bodice with balloon peplum which gathers into the waist. Sleeveless, the dress has black velvet straps with striped flounces on each side and has black velvet petals attached to the straps. The long, straight skirt has a front slit. Dress has a center back zipper closure, and is unlined. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Jeans

Jeans

Date: 1965/1969
Creator: Levi Strauss and Company
Description: Pair of jeans. Commercially manufactured Levi Strauss & Co. denim blue jeans which have been bleached to white, then disassembled and reassembled with embellishments of multi-color crewel embroidered fabric and glass beads. Jeans have two front pockets and two back pockets, front zipper fly and button at waistband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shirt

Shirt

Date: 1962/1968
Creator: unknown
Description: Homemade, long-sleeved shirt of gold brocade, with straight button front, in the popular Elvis Presley or Renaissance style of the late 1960's. Multiple ballooned areas on the sleeves.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Belt And Buckle

Belt And Buckle

Date: 1965/1975
Creator: unknown
Description: Belt of finished black leather having a large openwork chrome buckle designed as letters spelling out "PEACE", within a rectangular frame.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
T-Shirt - Che Guevara

T-Shirt - Che Guevara

Date: 1970
Creator: unknown
Description: T-shirt of white cotton, having short sleeves and a rounded neckline, which is printed with an artistic rendering of a portrait of Che Guevara, arranged as large main central portrait in black, surrounded by four smaller renditions in pale gray. Acquired by the donor in Mexico City in 1971 from a vendor in the Mexico City Metro. Ernesto "Che" Guevara (b. June 14, 1928 in Rosario, Argentina - d. La Higuera, Bolivia, October 9, 1967) commonly known as El Che or simply Che, was an Argentine Marxist revolutionary, physician, author, intellectual, guerrilla leader, diplomat, military theorist, and major figure of the Cuban Revolution.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1930
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of blue, green, pink, and black taffeta and satin in horizontal woven bands. The full-length dress has a sweetheart neckline which gathers at bust to simulate a bow. The fitted bodice has short raglan-style sleeves with gathers at the shoulder seams. The long skirt is gathered at the natural waist. The dress is unlined, and has hook-and-eye closures on left side along bodice.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of printed silk with beads and sequins. Short dress of black silk is printed with a paisley design in yellow, red, and cream. The background is covered in heavy black beading and black sequins. The dress has a short standing collar and long set-in sleeves. There is a center back zipper from collar to hips. Fully lined in black fabric. Label of Dallas retailer inside back near collar on left side: "Marie Leavell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1968
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of brown suede boots. Almost knee-high, the boots are constructed as slip-on rounded-toe shoes or moccasins with added segments on the quarter to create the length of the boots. At the top, the suede of the boots is folded over outwards forming a pocket for a drawstring around top and a band of suede fringe around the outside of the boot. Indistinct trademark/logo stamped on sole. Illegible stamped mark inside boots. Referred to as "Squaw Boots", these were worn by the donor who acquired them in 1968 from the Fishing Bridge Store, in Yellowstone National Park.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1989
Creator: Mouratidis, Michael, 1920-2002
Description: Evening coat of brocade and fur. The full-length coat is of a pale yellow silk brocade, with a pattern of flowers and scrolls in reds, purples, blues, white, silver, and gold. It has long sleeves and opens along the center front, with no closures. The cuffs and collar are wide bands of dyed purple fox fur. The coat is lined in a pale tan/yellow silk. Sewn in below collar at inside center back is designer's label: "Designed / by Mouratidis / Washington DC" Attached inside right side near hip is original paper label printed on one side "Balenciaga / Paris", and written on the back "Brocade evening mystery / coat w/fox / R". Donated to the Texas Fashion Collection by Helen Noumas, in memory of her partner Michael Mouratidis, designer of the piece.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1970/1975
Creator: Halley, George
Description: Dress of navy blue silk chiffon. The full-length dress is sleeveless, with narrow straps extending across shoulders and meeting at center of the 2 1/2" wide A-line band at neckline. The straps and neckline band are covered with faux jewels. From the band drops the long A-line skirt of finely-pleated silk chiffon, which conceals a narrow sheath dress underneath. This dress is similar in style to one produced for Halley's 1967 collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1970/1979
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of off-white / ivory wool knit. The form-fitting full-length sheath has a round neckline and short cap sleeves. The entire dress is covered with iridescent sequins, and is decorated at lower part with five bands of gold/copper sequins, 3 bands of rosettes composted of gold beads and pearls, and two bands of "garlands" with suspended pine-cone forms and diamond shapes of copper/gold sequins, gold bugle beads, and gold beads. Dress has zipper closure along center back. Label reads: "Gene Shelly's / Boutique Internationale / California / Hand Decorated in Hong Kong / 100% Wool"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1970/1978
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Sleeveless coat of navy on white zebra printed wool. The street-length coat is of slight A-line, widening to hem. It has wide straps, no collar, and center front opening with 5 circular dark blue plastic buttons. At each hip is a patch pocket with simulated flap, the fabric of the pockets chosen to match the placement on the print. The coat is fully lined in navy fabric. Inside neckline at back is designer's label "Givenchy", folded so that "Made In / France" is not visible. This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a blue wool jersey knit top and slacks. Donor noted that it was "Made for Monte Carlo for day wear". There is also a hat that was worn with the ensemble (1978.013.062)
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Coat and Dress

Ensemble - Coat and Dress

Date: 1972
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246" This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1960/1965
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner band is a plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa". The jeweled ornament is attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. Donor notes of this hat: "...to wear with short black cocktail dresses."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Date: 1935
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening ensemble of a dress, jacket and belt. The full-length sleeveless evening dress is of black silk, with a slim silhouette. It has a wide, shallow V-neck at front, and has decorative twist in the fabric at back, which creates a deeper V. The wide straps are ruched at front with non-functional rhinestone-encrusted clasps sewn to them. The bodice has decorative seaming under bust and around the hips. The dress has a black silk belt with a rhinestone-encrusted "buckle", which functions as a large hook-and-eye rather than a buckle. The jacket is of matching black silk, lined with a cream-colored taffeta. The short, bell-shaped sleeves have a second "layer" creating the effect of a wide ruffle. Padded tubes of silk curve along each shoulder, tapering under the arm at front and back. There is a center front opening with no closure, which is "cut away" in a curve at front, giving the overall effect of a miniature 'cropped' opera cape. No labels in either garment. Possibly acquired by Ms. Hewett in France in the 1930's while studying medieval music manuscripts.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1925~
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche of chocolate brown felt. The hat has a domed crown of brown felt to which is applied segments of sienna red/brown velvet as appliques, forming draping at sides. Unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1910/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Small cartwheel-style hat. Cylindrical crown of gold and ochre/brown brocade with irregular folds. Circular stiff brown velour brim, not as wide as a typical cartwheel hat but in the same style. Affixed to the crown near the brim on one side is a cluster of three cloth flowers and a sprig of cloth leaves. Affixed to the other side is a plume of brown ostrich feathers. Inside of crown lined in black silk. Embroidered inside crown is maker's marks, including an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1910/1919
Creator: unknown
Description: Beret style hat of navy velvet. Small brim. Lined in black fabric gathered to center.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche hat of tan straw. The high, domed crown is of woven tan straw in a spiraling pattern. On either side of the crown is an applique in blue, pink/gray, and black felt of an arc or half-circle. On one side, the arc points up, on the other side it points down. Around the base of the crown is a narrow band of black felt. The brim is also of woven straw, upturned at sides and edged with black felt. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze/gold fabric, now very shattered. Inside the crown is stitched an ornate label, with a view of two women playing tennis and the inscription: "Berkeley / Made in / California". A small arrow and the word "Front" indicates the front of the hat. Attached to an inner seam of the lining is size label "22".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of off-white silk over straw base. The crown slightly rounded at top, covered in off-white silk, with ruching and folds around side. Affixed to sides of crown at various points are artificial flowers of various colors of velvet. The medium-width brim is circular, of woven straw, originally covered with off-white silk, now mostly perished. The inside of the crown is lined in off-white muslin, partly shattered, and the underside of the brim was originally lined in white silk, now mostly perished. There are no labels or marks in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1923
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche hat of beige felt. The high, domed crown is of dark beige/brownish felt, pulled and gathered to create texture at top back. The brim, of the same felt, is narrow, curving down at sides and up at back. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon, which passes through slots in the upturned back section of the brim. At the side of the hat, the ribbon is gathered slightly, and has three segments that extend forward around the crown, fanning upwards to partly cover the front of the hat. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze fabric. In crown of hat is ornate embroidered label consisting of an oval surmounted by a device with triple ostrich plumes; small coats of arms at the ends of the oval, and the text " Imported / Amhat / Chiffon Felt", with inscription below: "Reg. U.S. Patent Office". Attached inside base of crown is original paper tag: "Berlin / Amhat / New York" and "Triste / Imported / Chiffon Felt".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design