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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Coat
Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots. Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France". This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076) Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30166/
Hat
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30163/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, have decorative band across toe cap with row of tiny holes along line of band. The boots close along center front with laces (laces lacking), 18 holes high. Medium/high stacked heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering slightly to base, and with curved front section. Sole of brown leather. Lined in off-white/tan canvas. Stamped on lining: "37 / 1 / 7395" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38998/
Evening Dress
Cream silk jersey evening dress / ballgown with beaded decoration and matching belt. A) Full-length gown, bodice embellished with hand-embroidered stylized leaves/buds in cream on a ground of silver, green, and mauve beads. Shoulders and thin collar with solid fields of beading. Short, wide sleeves edged with silver and clear beads. Center back opening with hook-and-eyes at top and bottom, no closure along mid-back. Plain cream silk jersey skirt, gathered into waist. Closure at right hip, with band of hook-and-eyes along back waistline, and series of hidden snaps down from waistline. Bodice lined in silk gauze, skirt lined in heavier cream silk. Inner grosgrain ribbon waistband with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside waistband: "Givenchy"; under designer's label is hidden design/style # tag with handwritten notation: "54783" B) Belt of cream silk gauze-backed silk jersey, 2" wide x 30" long, completely covered in beading matching bodice. Hook-and-eye closure at ends. No marks/labels on belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87027/
Petti-Hoop
Petti-hoop of steel hoops within a white cotton petticoat. A modified form of cage crinoline consisting of three graduated steel hoops that open with snaps that fit within horizontal pockets of the full-length petticoat. Petticoat has gathered waist and eyelet lace at hem. Maker's label sewn in: "Petti-hoop / Created by / Ru-Nell / Pat Pend #494517" Size label, "10". The Ru-Nell Manufacturing Co. was founded by Fred Poole in 1935 in Yorkville, Georgia, USA. The company was named after his wife Ruby, and his oldest daughter Nell. Originally producing chenille bedspreads, they began to manufacturing "Petti-hoops" after their daughter Dorothy was unable to find a petticoat/hoop set to wear for a Southern Bell Ball in the 1950's. Ruby Poole designed the first one, and it became so popular that they went into production. Later they were produced as wedding gown underpinnings. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87029/
Mini Dress
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined. Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87026/
Sandals
Pair of woman's sandals of pink and silver metallic leather, white leather, and black patent leather. Insole/sole of silver leather with pink leather inner section. Across instep is narrow band of pink, white, and black leather segments set with a single square black faceted gem mounted in silver colored metal. A second matching strap extends from insole, curves across instep, threads through a similar band, then continues around back of heel and back down to reattach to insole on same side it began. This band also set with two square faceted black gems. 3" high spike heel is thick, covered with black patent leather on sides and back and brown leather as sole on front. Designer/Maker's label stamped on insole at heel: "RODO / Since / 1956" within wreath. Impressed in sole: "RODO / [outline of hide] Vero / Cuoio / Made in Italy / 36" With applied sticker on sole showing pictograms indicating what materials make up the parts of the shoe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87112/
Pumps
Pair of woman's pumps of iridescent gold leather. Designed with rounded, open toes, inner sides cut-away. The leather has lightly scored parallel lines over the surface, creating a striped effect. Elongated wedge-style heel 4" high. Designer's label stamped in silver on insole: "Fanziska Hübener" Stamped into sole: "Hübener, Fanziska"; a circle with inscription "Vero Cuoio / Hand Made Brazil"; sizes: "BR / 38"; "EUR / 40" and "USA / 9" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87111/
Pumps
Pair of velour, canvas, and leather pumps. Designed with pointed toes, the pumps have uppers of bright green, red, and navy velour, and black canvas in lengthwise stripes. Along bottom edge of upper is a pebbled leather band which is textured to resemble alligator and which is accented with brown stitching. Stiletto heel 3" in height covered with same textured leather. Suspended from top edge of heel is a gold charmed shaped as an "R". Maker's mark stamped in gold inside shoe: "[R logo] Roberta di Camerina" Stamped on sole: "Vero / Cuoio" and "37". Applied sticker on sole with pictograms indicating which parts are leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87117/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of ivory colored leather. On back of each glove is a stitched swirl design of 5 ribs. The gloves widen to end with piped hems, and extend to about mid-forearm. Appears to be a youth size. Stamped inside gloves: A) "ARIS" logo in hemisphere; "U.S. Pat. / Aug. 22'22"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. B) "5 3/4"; "U.S. Pat. / Sept 19'22 / Made in Germany"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87118/
Sandals
Pair of sandals made of deep pink leather. Two thick straps extend from sides and meet to form vamp/throat with surmounting bow. A thinner, single strap extends up and across near base of toes. Spike heel is 3" high, and covered with same pink leather. Inset black label on sole with maker's mark embroidered in silver: "Mario Valentino / Made in Italy" Molded into sole: "Mario / Valentino" Stamped into sole: Outline of a hide containing words: "Vero Cuoio / Cuir / Veritable / Leather / Leder Echt"; "Made in Italy"; "39" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87114/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of kid skin leather; off-white; just below wrist length; single snap fastenings at wrist. On back of each glove, running length-wise down hand are three embroidered bands, pink and blue chevrons in diamond formation on dark blue bands. Cuffs from wrist to end are lined with black silk heavily embroidered with floral motifs in blue, pinks, reds, whites, greens, etc. in chain-stitch. Remainder of glove is unlined. Stamped inside glove: "Modèle déposé [Fr-En: Registered Design] / Paris" and "6" and part of other marks. Metal parts of the snaps have what appear to be Chinese/Japanese characters stamped into them. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87119/
Sandals
Pair of sandals made of metallic cobalt blue leather. Two thick straps extend from sides and meet to form vamp/throat with surmounting bow. A single strap extends up from sole at heel and is topped by strap to encircle ankle. Strap secures with single silver tear-shaped buckle. Spike heel is 4" high, and covered with same blue leather. Inset black label on sole with maker's mark embroidered in silver: "Mario Valentino / Made in Italy" Molded into sole: "Mario / Valentino" Stamped into sole: Outline of a hide containing words: "Vero Cuoio / Cuir / Veritable / Leather / Leder Echt"; "Made in Italy"; "39" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87116/
Sandals
Pair of women's sandals of silver metallic leather. Designed as "gladiator style" sandals, with six narrow silver leather criss-crossed or interwoven straps at front over vamp, and six more similar straps extending around ankle and originating from vertical band at heel. 5" zipper along heel band. Designer's label on both sides of sole: "Barbara Bui" Impressed on underside of sole: "Made in Spain" and "40". Attached sticker under sole showing pictograms indicating which parts of shoe are leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87113/
Dress
Dress of white raw silk and linen blend. The dress is mid-length, with rounded neck and short sleeves. Set in from neckline is a narrow band of red silk with white line print forming a collar with bow at front. The trim is repeated at sleeve hems, and at lower edge of 2 faux pocket flaps at front. The dress is seamed and with short bust darts. Center back zipper closure with hook and loop at neckline. Fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label at inside left neckline: "Vera Maxwell / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87006/
Shoes
Pair of women's shoes of black patent leather. Designed with square toes, the vamp has an applied large square of black patent leather crossed vertically by a narrow band of red leather set off-center to right side of wearer. "Kitten" heel 1 1/2" high formed as a silver rectangle with horizontal black band and vertical red band. Designer's label inset int sole: "Davis by Ruthie Davis" Designer's monogram impressed in sole, two facing "D"s Impressed in sole: Outline of hide inscribed "Vero Cuoio"; "Designed in / New York / Made in Italy / 6" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87105/
Sandals
Pair of woman's sandals of black suede. Designed with pointed toe, the slip-on sandals have two wavy-edged black suede bands crossing at instep, and a second pair of similar straps extending from heel and mid-foot to cross at slightly below ankle. At each crossing is mounted a faceted clear crystal set in a silver filigree rosette of four petals. 3 1/2" spike heel is covered in black satin. Tan leather sole. Maker's logo/label stamped in gold on cream leather inset in insole: "[logo of T bracketed by facing L's within oval] / Couture / Les Tropeziennes" Stamped in gold on sole: "Made in Italy / Vero Cuoio"; logo repeated; "Les Tropeziennes" and "35". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87107/
Shoes
Pair of woman's shoes of gold leather and colored snakeskin. Designed as platform heels with slightly pointed open toes, they have a wide band of gold leather extending across the vamp. Extending along the side of the shoe from the vamp, behind heel, and to other vamp is band of snakeskin dyed vari-colored, from dark burgundy to gold. Another band of gold leather attaches to snakeskin at ankle on each side and wraps around wearer's leg. Back of band is elasticized. 4 1/2" stiletto heel covered in gold leather. Designer's label stamped in black on insole: "[monogram] / Gil Carvalho / London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87108/
Pumps
Pair of woman's pumps of bright tan / golden / honey colored leather. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have horizontal black stitching following the shape of the shoes over all of the surfaces, creating a striped effect. 4 1/2" spike heel covered with the same leather. Designer's label of tooled copper leather inset in insole: "Rupert Sanderson / London" Impressed in sole: "38"; "Rupert Sanderson"; "Vero Cuoio" and "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87104/
Sandals
Pair of woman's high-heeled sandals of multi-colored metallic leathers. Designed with rounded, open toes, the shoes have a vamp of an open-work figure 8 created by dark and light blue and violet braided leather bands. Bands of same leather extend from sides of vamp along sides of sandal to heel. Openwork heel formed of same braided leathers in inverted teardrop or petal shapes radiating from heel, and with upper band arching over the heel. Insole of metallic blue leather with inlaid teardrop shape of violet leather. 4" high heel rounded at sides and back tapers to ground and is covered with iridescent blue/great material. Designer's label stamped in silver on insole: "Fanziska Hübener" Stamped into sole: "Hübener, Fanziska"; a circle with inscription "Vero Cuoio / Hand Made Brazil"; sizes: "BR / 35"; "EUR / 37" and "USA / 6" Size sticker on sole: "36" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87106/
T-Shirt - Che Guevara
T-shirt of white cotton, having short sleeves and a rounded neckline, which is printed with an artistic rendering of a portrait of Che Guevara, arranged as large main central portrait in black, surrounded by four smaller renditions in pale gray. Acquired by the donor in Mexico City in 1971 from a vendor in the Mexico City Metro. Ernesto "Che" Guevara (b. June 14, 1928 in Rosario, Argentina - d. La Higuera, Bolivia, October 9, 1967) commonly known as El Che or simply Che, was an Argentine Marxist revolutionary, physician, author, intellectual, guerrilla leader, diplomat, military theorist, and major figure of the Cuban Revolution. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30323/
Hat
Hat of black felt. "Pancake" style hat with low, domed crown of black felt slightly "puffed out" at top. Around base of crown is tied ribbon made of white Birdseye pique, with self bow at each side. Hat has wide circular black felt brim, set slightly off-center to back around crown. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Black felt back strap lined with black grosgrain ribbon secure hat to wearer's head. Labels: Retailer's label on inside band: "Carson Pirie Scott & Co. / Chicago" Additional label sewn partly behind retailer's label: "57 31" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114885/
Hat
Hat of green felt. Based in part on a "Eugenie-style" hat, the domed crown is of Kelly green felt surrounded by an asymmetrical cut brim which is rolled up at one side. Rolled brim is hand-sewn to crown, and narrows to point in back. Affixed at cut/roll is spray of vari-colored pheasant feathers. Hat is unlined, with Kelly green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to the inner hatband are two small simulated tortoise shell combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn inside at hatband: "Estelle Peters / 50 E. 56th St. N.Y.". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114819/
Hat
Hat of ultramarine blue felt. Based on a top hat, the cylindrical high crown has an undulating upper edge. Small brim curls up at front and sides, but curls down at back, ending in a point. Around base of crown is wide blue grosgrain ribbon which trails off back of hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. A thin black elastic strap goes around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn into inner band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114797/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of black leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toe and plain leather upper. The 2" heel is of modified Louis style, covered with black leather and flaring at base. Retailer label: "Sanger Brothers / Dallas - Waco" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115021/
Hat
Hat in modified renaissance style of black crochet net. Flat, circular crown of net gathered under crown from temples draping to shoulder length. Inside hatband of black grosgrain. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Lilly Dache Paris 78 East 58th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114946/
Sailor Hat
Sailor style hat of rust colored straw with yellow and white daisy-like flowers on flat brim. Olive green satin ribbon as hatband ties at bow in back. Unlined with black grosgrain inner headband. Label on inside hatband: "Norma's / Creations / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114920/
Hat
Beret of brown felt velour with arrows at each side trimmed with gold thread applique embellished with red and blue cabochons. Hatpin with small, round, black head. Inside crown stamped: "Genuine / Velour / Imported Fur" Size label on inside hatband: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114919/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of reddish brown straw. Low, cylindrical, slightly tilted crown is flattened at top and encircled at base by wide gray grosgrain ribbon which divides into three tiers of streamers cascading at back. Wide floppy brim. Reddish brown inner grosgrain ribbon hatband and black elastic cord to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / INC." Retailer's label at inner hatband: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277133/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of black felt with brown mink trim around front and sides. Quilted crown. Black grosgrain inner hatband; unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "The Fair / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114945/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of navy blue velvet trimmed around edge with blue/purple iridescent beads which form swirls on crown. Grosgrain inner headband with comb for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277105/
Calotte Hat
Calotte hat of black net and black velvet. Small black velvet bows as trim around headband and on netting over open crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276974/
Headband
Headband of navy blue grosgrain braid with navy veil extending over front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277113/
Headband
Headband of black grosgrain braid with black veil extending over front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277090/
Headband
Headband of dark green velvet. Double banded. One band in velvet, other band decorated with hearts of mink fur upon hearts of velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277131/
Headband
Headband hatlet made of black straw bow alternating with black silk bow in layers. Veil with chenille balls in diagonal pattern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277048/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat in muted pink velvet. Crown has narrow 1" down-turned brim, trimmed with velvet flowers and pink ostrich feathers. Netting of same color as trim. One large, clear rhinestone on side of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114961/
Sailor Hat
Hat in sailor style of navy blue straw cloth with 1 1/2" deep pillbox crown. Flat brim 3 1/2" wide at center front and 2" wide at center back. 1 1/4" wide navy velvet ribbon around crown. Trim of small red velvet flowers and tiny white blossoms extending from left side of brim toward center front. Unlined with navy blue grosgrain headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside headband: "Sharon / Originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276996/
Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of burnt ochre straw with burnt ochre grosgrain ribbon bow at back on brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Wide upward brim with alternating narrow bands of flat straw. Unlined with ochre grosgrain headband. Designer's label on inside headband: " An Original / by Dajon / New York" Size tag to left of designer's label: "22 1/2" Union label: "565660" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276973/
Breton Hat
Hat in modified breton style of pale grey straw with light blue pleated fabric around high crown. Cream colored veil covers entire hat. Unlined. Designer's label on inside headband: "Miss Eileen" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277021/
Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of gray straw with gray grosgrain ribbon bow edged with gray straw at back of high, upturned brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Unlined with gray grosgrain headband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Valerie / Modes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276978/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of gold lamé fabric. Hat could also be called a modified turban. Upturned brim with large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones as trim. Same trim of large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones on right side of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" Designer's label on inside headband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114971/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of brown fur. The pillbox crown is formed of a cylinder of brown fur. Lined with metallic weave fabric with stripes of red, green, gold metallic, edged with brown grosgrain ribbon and with a band of gold rickrack. At each side, attached to inner band, is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside back edge: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114963/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hatlet of 4 ultramarine velvet bows. Open crown, wire frame structure covered in matching material. Entire hat covered with matching veil. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277117/
Hat
Calotte style hat of black felt with rolled under brim. Cluster of back feathers along brim covered by black veil. Small bow of self. Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Glenover / Henry Pollak, Inc. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114966/
Purse
Handbag of black silk faille with multicolored floral embroidery. Purse has round, gold frame in leaf motif and plunger closure. Gold chain handle. Peach lining with pocket. Retailer's label: " Sanger Bros. Inc. / Paris - France" Label above pocket in side of purse: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277068/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of black straw cloth. White fabric rosebuds and daisies with green leaves form headband as trim over small brim in front. Edge of hat trimmed in black velvet. Black veil gathers to velvet ribbons on ends to form tie for securing hat to head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114970/
Toque Hat
Hat in toque style of black and tan rough straw. Braids of straw interwoven. Lined in black net. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Montaldo's" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277073/
Headband
Bandeau of autumn haze mink. Headband has brown grosgrain lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114962/
Hat
Hat of white straw with high crown and headband of white organza which end in bow at side and forms ruffle around brim. Style sometimes referred to as a flower-pot hat. Unlined. Manufacturer's label: "Valerie / Modes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277136/