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 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hatlet
Hatlet of burgundy fabric covered with artificial flowers. The hatlet is formed as an oval of stiffened burgundy fabric intended to be worn across the top of the head. The hatlet is almost entirely covered with artificial flowers of velvets, silk, and other fabrics. The flowers are primarily in pinks/purples/reds, with green stems and leaves. The hat is lined in black satin and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is very large, extending across the full width of the inside of the hatlet, the word "Paris" partly obscured by the grosgrain ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39178/
Beret
Hat of striped felt. The hat is formed as a "pancake beret" on a rigid, slightly curved frame. The crown is of felt with wide width-wise stripes of olive green and black. The edge is embellished with a swagged band of bronze and black beads which runs from just behind the midway point of the side of the hat, around the front, and to just behind the midway point on the other side of the hat. The interior of the hat is lined in black fabric, and there is an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chez Henriette". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39245/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of yellow chiffon. The stiffened cylindrical crown is slightly domed, and covered with pleated yellow chiffon. On the top of the crown, the pleats run front-to-back, and on the sides the pleats run horizontally around the crown. The interior of the crown is lined in yellow faille, and has an inner hatband at the base of wide yellow grosgrain ribbon. Attached to the inner grosgrain band at either side is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39241/
Hat
Hat of black wool felt. The tall, cylindrical crown is slanted across the top, higher at front than back. The top of the crown has a flattened section with inner ridge, forming a ring of the felt inside the top. Around the sides of the crown is a very wide light brown band of grosgrain ribbon with bow and trailing ends at back of hat. The wide brim undulates, partly curving up and partly curving down. The hat is lined in black satin, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inside of crown: "Sally Victor / New York" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39247/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of golden cloth. The pillbox style hat is formed as a low, cylindrical crown of stiffened mesh with flattened top, covered with with a woven golden cloth, pleated horizontally on sides. The top of the crown is embellished with beading, using simulated pearls, small bronze-colored beads, large oval cabochon opalescent translucent beads, faceted "crystal" beads, and crescent-shaped translucent beads. The hat is unlined, the inner mesh visible and showing embroidered pattern of pale green leaves/branches. Around inside lower edge of crown is an inner hatband of green grosgrain ribbon. Affixed to inner hatband on either side is a small plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's (retailer's?) label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39240/
Hat
Hat of natural colored braided straw. The hat is formed of a flat oval of braided straw, turned up at back, trimmed with a small bouquet of red and blue silk flowers. At the back of the hat, on the segment that is turned up, is applied a black velvet ribbon bow. Extending to either side from the center, beneath the flowers, are black velvet ribbons to tie the hat under the wearer's chin. Designer's label on underside of hat: "Sandy Dallas" Worn by Frances Virginia Parramore Thinnes in 1952 at an event in Abilene, Texas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39244/
Hatlet
Hatlet of beaded velvet. The small, circular, slightly domed hatlet is of off-white velvet with printed scrolls and curves in greens, browns and blues. Over the surface of the hat are various beaded and sequined motifs and strings of beads. Across the back is a wide twisted green ribbon which crosses at back and has trailing ends. Lined in copper/reddish cloudy silk(?), and edged in green grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. At either side is attached a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner green grosgrain ribbon: "Hattie Carnegie" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39246/
Hat
Hat of yellow straw. The hemispherical crown is of woven yellow straw, around the base of which is tied a yellow grosgrain ribbon with ends trailing off of the back of the hat. The wide brim is curved up along sides and front, and flat at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of yellow grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39243/
Hat
Hat of burnt ocher/light brown felt. The hat is styled somewhat like a beret, with low, slightly domed oval crown. The crown is embellished with scattered beading, in a pattern of golden, clear, and purple beads in strings of four or five, and with scattered larger oval cabochon golden yellow "gems". The edge of the crown folds under at front, and folds back out at sides to form slight brim. Around the front half of the hat is attached a veil of black which is formed from two different designs of netting, sewn together. The upper veiling is of wide hexagonal mesh, while the lower veiling is a smaller hexagonal mesh, sewn to the upper with a scrolling brown thread forming loops and curves. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain inner hatband at inside base of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chez Jeré / Shreveport, LA.". Paper merchandise tag stitched to inner hatband: Obverse: "7112 / DNHH"; Reverse: "Tortuise / 55.00 [marked out] / 27.50" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39047/
Hat
Hat of dark green felt and multicolored yarns. Formed in the style of a small bonnet, the cylindrical crown is pointed back, and cut flat across top. The front of the crown is overlaid by a band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground of various colors of yarn, and scattered shaped beads. This band is bordered by a thick purple yarn. At the front of the hat and extending along the sides are the brim, folded back to form a second wide band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground. The hat is unlined, and from the inside can be seen the inner part of the embroidery/crochet. Maker's label sewn inside hat, at back of crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39048/
Cloche
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris". Gift of New York designer Adele Simpson to the Dallas Museum of Fashion, from her personal collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39049/
Hat
Toque-style hat of navy blue felt. The hemispherical crown is of navy blue felt with a folded-up back section from which radiates three large arrow-head shapes (forming a stylized fleur-de-lys seen from above). The shapes are formed of the same material as the hat, but with the reverse side showing, creating different shade/texture. At back of hat are two short trailing ribbons. The hat is unlined, with inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband around inside base of crown. A small stitch mark on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie". Visible inside the crown is part of a stamped mark from the felt supplier. Accompanied by two short hatpins, the heads covered in the same felt as the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39046/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of cream satin. The slightly domed crown of the hat is of cream satin, inset within a thick ring of the same fabric which forms the sides of the crown. Applied to the sides of the crown are black velvet ribbon semi-bows which form "T" shapes, set alternately upright and inverted. The hat is lined in golden tan fabric, and has a white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband around the inside base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior New York Inc.". Retailer's label sewn to inside lining of crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order". Accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39201/
Hat
Hat of dark muted purple straw. The high crown is canted back at an angle, and has a slight rim around upper edge. Around the crown is wrapped a wide band of gathered off-white organza, which covers the entire side of the crown. The brim is of the same woven straw, with a rolled edge. It turns down at front and up at back. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue fine-mesh netting, and there is a dark blue grosgrain inner hatband around the lower inside edge of the crown. Sewn to the inside of the crown is a large retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Custom Made"; a smaller label is sewn to the inner hatband: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39208/
Hat
Hat of green straw. The domed crown is of woven dark green straw, using primarily wide bands of straw but with occasional bands made of linked narrow strips threaded with thin golden ribbon. The narrow brim is of matching straw, and turns up steeply. Applied to back is a small dark green velvet bow. The hat is lined in a dark green fine mesh fabric, and has an inner hatband of green velveteen(?) ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Ere Nouvelle / New York / Reg. U.S. Pat. Off." Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" Partly obscured Union(?) label sewn to inner hatband: "...w York / .... reation / ..... 22". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39232/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black straw. Styled as a pillbox, the low crown is cylindrical with a flattened top. The crown sits within a second "layer" of crown, which curves under and forms an inner ring which sits on the head, leaving the outer edge of the crown somewhat cantilevered. At the front of the hat, between the outer and inner edges of the crown, is a bow of the same black straw. The hat is lined in black fabric, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of inner crown. A small white bow is affixed to the inner hatband to indicate the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / Young Modes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39239/
Hat
Hat of beige straw. The low, slightly domed crown is of woven medium beige straw. Around the crown is wrapped a wide horizontally pleated/ruched band of cream organza, secured at one side with a large "pin" wrapped in yellow material. From the pin hang two circular metal charms, each with rhinestone border and each with a relief depicting a woman in wide, standing, lace collar. The moderate width brim is of the same woven straw, set slightly off-center so that there is more brim at front and sides than at back. The brim is turned up on all sides. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of golden yellow velvet inside the base of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / Alfreda / Inc. / New York"; Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" This hat belonged to Mrs. Leo F. Corrigan, the mother of Mrs. Edwin B. Jordan, the donor of this piece. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39233/
Hat
Hat of navy blue wool felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat is formed as a low crown of navy blue wool felt. At the back of the crown are nine staggered tucks running from the lower edge of crown to top, and then being tucked over and into a cut-out from 9 uneven tucks which radiate downward from the top of the crown towards the front of the hat. The hat is unlined, with an inner black/navy blue grosgrain ribbon hatband around inside base of crown. A stitched mark on hatband indicates front of hat. Designer's label is sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label is sewn to inner hatband: "Washer Bros / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39227/
Hat
Hat of red straw. The domed crown is of woven red straw which appears as a finely woven thin straw ground with a secondary wider red straw woven throughout forming an "overpattern". The wide brim turns up deeply, forming a bowl around the crown. The upper part of the brim, which faces the crown, shows the finely woven pattern, while the underside of the brim, which faces outwards, has the same secondary wider straw patterning. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Styled by / Coralie" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39226/
Hat
Hat of red straw. The low crown has a shallow conical top. The brim is narrow, but tightly rolled up at edges. At the front of the hat is an "s" curl of matching straw set against the crown, inside the brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon inside the base of the crown. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co. / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39073/
Calotte
Hat of green felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed green felt crown, and a brim that folds up around the crown, extending almost as high as the crown in front. At the base of the crown, within the area of the brim, is a gather of brown veiling/netting that runs about 3/4 of the circumference of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband at the inside base of the crown. A stitched mark on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's / Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" Stamped inside crown: "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39094/
Hatlet
Hat of pale pink fine straw. The low, rounded crown is of woven fine pale pink straw with gold edging. At front of hat are two "petal" shapes emerging from the upper part of the crown and extending forward and down at the front of the hat. The shapes are of the same woven straw, edged in pink satin. The hat has a veil of fine pink netting, now partly perished. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of pink grosgrain ribbon around inside base of the crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Volk". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39096/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of striped fabric. The low-crowned cylindrical hat is covered in a gray fabric having red, green, black, white, and gold stripes reminiscent of a man's tie. Around the crown the fabric is pleated and draped, giving the effect of a low turban. Lined in a pink satin, with dusty rose pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30292/
Pumps
Pair of metallic leather pumps. Shoes of textured pink or rose metallic hue with silver undertones, edged in black velvet on vamp and around peep-toe. Slingback, fastened by black rhinestone-accented buckles. 3 1/4" spike/stiletto heels covered in the same leather. Each shoe marked inside vamp: "4 1/2 M 4311-SLW / 26080". Stamped on left shoe: "Herbert Levine / Fine Shoes"; Stamped on right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus". Stamped on both "Hand / Lasted". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30157/
Hat
Cocktail hat of violet silk satin. The hat is formed of a low, cylindrical, flat-topped pillbox-style crown covered in drapes of violet/purple silk satin fabric. At center front/top of the crown are two large sculptural stiffened loops of the fabric. Crown is lined in cream fabric. Along inside lower edge of crown is a cream grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. Donor stated: "...worn on back of head with upstanding loops in front, made for a grey lace three-quarter cocktail dress..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30176/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black plastic tubing. Formed as an open circular crown, the hatlet is composed of three sections of black tubing shaped as crescents, attached at points. Overlaid with black net veiling with sections of black tubing affixed at some intersections. Crown is lined with black mesh, and edged in black velvet. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of William T. Doyle, from the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38065/
Hat
Hat of white straw. The beret-style hat of white straw, the crown formed of 8 segments. Extending from one side are two "swallow-tail" segments of off-white grosgrain ribbon. Inside of crown lined in panels of off-white grosgrain, and with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon, one white and one brown. Label sewn to brown inner hatband: "Belmar" (Possibly "Betmar") digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38062/
Hat
Hat of white straw and navy blue/black embroidery appliques. The domed crown is of finely woven white straw. The narrow brim turns up at the edges, somewhat irregularly, and is edged in dark navy blue/black embroidery appliques that cover upper and lower parts of the brim. The inside of the crown has a dark navy blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made". Accompanied by two short hat-pins, one with a head covered in matching straw, the other with a simulated pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38061/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of yellow plastic/vinyl tubing. Top of crown formed of a coil of the tubing bent into a square or diamond shape, encircled by more coiled tubing forming a circle, leaving open areas. The sides of the crown have other open areas, and form slight scallops at lower edge. Extending through the tubing from upper edge of crown is black net veiling, with small pieces of the yellow tubing worked into some of the intersections of the veiling. Interior of crown lined with yellow mesh, cut away at openings, and edged with a thin strip of beige/yellow velvet. Two small plastic combs are attached at either side to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's Label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"; a second hand-written label sewn in: "510" Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38067/
Hat
Hat of pale yellow/tan straw. The sailor-style hat has a domed crown of pale straw encircled at the base with a band of pale yellow velvet with "bow" loop at back. Over the ribbon is a band of fine veiling. The circular brim is of the same straw on top, but is of double-thickness, the underside of white straw. The inside of the crown with a wide off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by two short hatpins, with red velvet and gold ribbon heads. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38060/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of knit material with embroidery and mirrors. The black fabric of the hat is covered with yellow embroidered star shapes and small circular mirrors ca. 1.5 cm. in diameter bordered by red thread embroidery/crochet. Cylindrical crown formed as slightly "crushed", folding in in some areas and bulging out in others, and with gently scalloped lower edge. Top is generally flat, with an applied tear-drop shaped section of the same material, with trailing "ribbons" of same material extending off of back of hat. The edge of the applied panel and the lower edge of the crown are edged with alternating red and black beads, with two strands and two loops of the same beading descending from the between the "ribbons" at top. The inside of the crown is lined in red mesh and edged with red grosgrain ribbon. There are two plastic combs, one at either side, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38068/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue appliques. The hatlet is composed of a small square or diamond shaped skullcap of dark blue mesh overlaid with dark blue braid appliques in scrolling forms decorated with french knots. Around the four sides are further triangular shaped appliques, wired along the edges, to stand up around the crown. Affixed near the lower edges of the hatlet is dark blue net veil. Hatlet is lined with blue mesh and edged with a thin band of dark navy blue velvet. At either side are small plastic combs to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mr. William T. Doyle, through the Chicago Historical Society. From the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38064/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. Black velvet hatlet has a shallow domed crown edged with large upstanding "M" shapes and descending "V" shapes of black velvet edged with black beads. The overall effect is of a child's image of a coronet. The whole is overlaid with black net veil, with triplets of black beads worked into some intersections of the net. Crown is lined in black mesh netting and edged with black grosgrain ribbon. Two plastic combs inside crown help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38069/
Hatlet
Hatlet of brown velvet and plastic. Hatlet in calot (also spelled "calotte") style. Low circular domed crown of deep copper brown velvet is edged with band consisting of seven diamond-shaped plastic tortoiseshell plaques threaded and tied on two strands of brown plastic tubing. Surmounting hat is fine veil of brown netting. Crown is lined with brown mesh and edged with inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon. Three plastic combs are attached to inner hatband to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of William T. Doyle, from the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38066/
Hatlet
Hatlet of modified calot type with brown, beige, white, blue and green feathers, the whole covered with a very fine veil sprinkled with tiny rhinestones. Inside of crown lined at center with a green silk(?), edged with green grosgrain ribbon. Outer part of crown lined in a green knit material. Attached to grosgrain ribbon are Hatpin of matching material. Lined in green fabric. Two combs attached to both sides of green grosgrain headband. No labels. Attributed to Bes-Ben at time of donation. Gift of Mr. William T. Doyle, through the Chicago Historical Society. From the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38063/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan milan straw. The high crown is slightly dished, and narrows to brim, with wide band of tan/very pale green grosgrain ribbon at base with large "bow" at side. The straw brim is down-turned. The crown has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Roger Heim / Made in France Paris", and retailer's ribbon sewn just above designer's label: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38045/
Hat
Hat of white straw. Bonnet-style small summer hat of white Milan straw. The crown is formed of segments that arch over the head and enclose at back. Front with turned-back brim framing the face. Accented at right side by three black velvet circles. Lined inside along all edges with white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus". Intended to be worn on the back of the head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38044/
Hat
Sailor-style hat of tan straw and brown yarn. The "crushable" hat has a tan/brown straw crown, slightly domed, with base of brown crocheted yarn. The circular brim, set off-center to the crown, is of double-thickness. The join between the crochet band and the brim has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original" When not worn, or padded, the had "deflates" or "crushes" down, the crocheted section not significantly supporting the crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38049/
Hat
Hat of natural straw. Circular straw crown, slightly domed, with black grosgrain ribbon around base and surrounded by shaped straw brim. Brim is rounded in front for about 2/3 of circumference, and bound up with red stitching at back to form three corners at back. All edges of brim turned-up and edged in black velvet ribbon. From above, brim shape resembles a baseball field. Inside of crown with black grosgrain inner hatband, to which is attached two black elastic cords to secure combs to help hold hat on wearer's head. At front of hat is stitched a small "F" on the inner hatband to show front of hat. Designer's label inside crown at inner band: "Wm Silverman / New York", with smaller logo-form tag sewn in under larger label: "Wm Silverman" with scissors, needle and thread. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38043/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30205/
Hat
Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30237/
Cloche
Cloche-style hat of off-white wool felt. The hat has a deep, cylindrical, domed crown of off-white or cream felt which extends downwards on one side. Around the crown is black zig-zag stitching, and on the side where the crown extends downwards is an applied strip of felt, looped, secured through a stiffened loop of red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30234/
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress. The bodice of the dress is of sheer black wool, with a Peter Pan style collar and short sleeves which are shirred at the ends. There is a narrow black satin ribbon at waist where the bodice meets the skirt. The skirt is composed of three layers. The innermost layer is of thick black chiffon, the middle layer is thin black chiffon/crepe. The outer layer is of panels of black and white printed hounds tooth/plaid chiffon, the panels arranged vertically and slit from 5" below waistline to hemline. The panels are gathered/pleated into the waistband. At the top of each slit is an applied black satin bow, forming a row of bows around the hip-line of the skirt. Each panel has side borders of black satin ribbon. The dress has a center-back zipper from neckline to below hips, with a single hook-and-eye at top of collar. There is an inner black grosgrain ribbon waistband, with hook-and-eye closure. The bodice is lined in sheer black material. Designer's label inside skirt: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30072/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
(At Right) Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with bust darts, there is an attached bow of the same fabric just below the bust on the front. Slightly dropped waist, with box pleating from waist down the skirt. At front there are two box pleats that start at bow and continue down the front of the dress. Center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. It has 3/4-length sleeves and no collar. The center-front opening has no closures. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". The Spring/Summer 1956 line was called the Flèche ("Arrow")Line. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows ensemble as displayed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30071/
Dress
Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. The dress is accompanied by a long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". No labels on scarf. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30225/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of heavily beaded beige silk satin. The bodice of the full-length gown has an empire waist, a wide scoop neckline, and is sleeveless. It has princess seaming, and internal boning at center front of the neckline. The skirt has fullness from the widening of the panels. The skirt and lower part of the bodice are beaded with floral/foliate forms in pinks, browns, yellows, clear and iridescent beads. The upper part of the bodice, in a deep band around neckline, back, and straps, is totally covered in iridescent sequins, beaded flower heads in bronze/brown and clear beads. The bodice is lined and has internal structures to help support and give form to the gown. The skirt is lined with stiff netting, and has an internal attached net crinoline. The gown has a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30227/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30014/
Evening Pumps
Pair of slip-on evening pumps. Grey/green leather sole with clear vinyl upper, the upper trimmed at vamp with a 4-row band of rhinestones. Spike- or stiletto-style heels formed of clear Lucite embossed with vertical bands of foliate forms and with metal heel-cap. Blind-stamped into sole at ball of feet: "80 M 6641 / 3218-V678". Right shoe stamped: "Joléne / Hollywood Inspired / Made in U.S.A." The Joléne Hollywood Inspired brand/label was manufactured by the Tober-Saifer Shoe Manufacturing Company of St. Louis. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30061/
Ensemble - Nightgown and Robe
Ensemble consisting of a nightgown and robe of cream or pale peach nylon. Full-length robe with short sleeves and limp ruff collar. Opens down center front with hook-and-eye closure at waist and attached belt. Matching full-length nightgown is sleeveless, with wide straps. Nightgown opens at side with hook-and-eye closures and has string belt. Both pieces of the ensemble are fully accordion pleated on all parts. Robe has tag "Vanity Fair Nylon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30066/
Cocktail Suit
(On Left) Cocktail suit of black silk satin. The waist-length jacket is formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. The jacket has a center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. The jacket is lined in black silk. The matching mid-length skirt is of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. There is three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. The skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric. Jacket has designer's label: "Chanel" Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30046/