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 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat
Hat made from white straw. The high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown flares out slightly at bottom into an asymmetrical brim. The hat is composed of bands of 10 strands of straw that are twined and platted and woven into shape. Decorating the hat are applied small 4-petaled silk flowers placed all over. At side is a thin bow of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined, but with an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is retailer's label, "Saks Fifth Avenue / Millinery Salon". Sewn to the back of the retailer's label is a Union Label, #DB 995583 digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277003/
Pumps
Pair of heeled pumps of 2-tone beige leather. Designed with slightly pointed toes squared at ends, the main body of the upper is of light beige polished leather, with thin band of holes punched along upper edge. Toebox of darker beige leather with punched hole band and "pinked" edge at join, and a design of punched holes across top. Heel area of same darker beige leather, with same band of holes and "pinking" edge at join. Heel tapers to base. Designer's label inside: "Selby" Stamped inside: "Leather upper man made / trims, other parts / man made materials / [D in a circle] 9 D/B 42673C 23" Stamped on sole: "Made in U.S.A." Measurements: L: 25 cm. W: 8 cm. H: 12 cm. Heel: 6 cm, 2.5 inches digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277044/
Calotte
Hat of very pale green felt and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with slightly shaped crown embellished with scattered transparent gray beads, pearl beads, and rhinestones. Unlined. Inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277053/
Calotte
Hat of sequins and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped crown covered in iridescent sequins of light blues, with a large flower-head on either side embellished with pale blue and white sequins, gray bead, and pearls. The petals of the flowers extend below edge of crown. Overlaid with pale blue light mesh veil. Lined in lace. Designer's label inside: "A / Frances & Walter Nelkin / Hat", with a red sequin sewn in each upper corner of label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277046/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black satin. Bow of black satin as trim. Net at back of hat. Hatpin with head covered in matching satin. Lined. Comb at inside front of hat for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "A. Harris & Co. / Dallas" Union/size label to right of retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277085/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet with black net veil in front. Lined in green fabric. Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Debutante" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277045/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of natural straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of cream grosgrain ribbon with bow at right side. Around the crown, but not on the bow, the ribbon is edged at top with black. The wide circular brim curves upwards from base of crown, then curves down to edge. Unlined. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Florence ... / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277083/
Hat
Hat of navy felt. Somewhat like a cloche in style, the had has a low, rounded crown, with narrow turned-up brim at front. At right side are two fans or "conch shaped" decorations of navy grosgrain ribbon. The hat is overlaid at front with a navy veil. Inner navy grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by a plain black-headed hatpin. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277093/
Hat
Picture hat of dark pink/red Milan straw with wide brim. Pillbox crown trimmed with red and white polka dot organdy hatband which forms a bow on the right. Straw brim folds under and is lined in same polka dot organdy as hatband. Two hatpins with cloth covered heads in matching polka dot material. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277092/
Evening Gown
Gown of black jersey crepe with halter top embellished with gems, pearls, and patent leather pin wheels; halter top is trimmed in silver flat chain; jersey is gathered at center-front neckline and center-back; full-length with hip-length, center-front slit; center-back zip closure. Designer's label: "Carolina Herrera / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330336/
Coat
Coat of royal blue and dark magenta striped silk with matching belt. A) Coat of royal blue and dark magenta striped silk. Double breasted with 10 1-inch gold with inlaid mother-of-pearl buttons and 5 bound buttonholes. Bermuda collar. 3/4 length sleeves with 3" band cuffs. Two large patch pockets at sides. Lined in navy silk. Four large, covered snaps supplement closure. Coat has been altered by stitching front closed at lower portion of opening to form a "dress". Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" B) Covered belt in matching royal blue and dark magenta striped silk. Three inches wide with self covered, rectangular cinch buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330388/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of two pieces: A) Dress of gray striped cashmere with scoop neckline and long sleeves with rolled hem and edges; wide, horizontal stripes of alternating gray and light gray; tunic-length. B) Coat of discs of laminated news clippings sewn on white jersey knit with wide silver fox trim at neckline, opening, and cuffs; lined in champagne satin; mid-length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330379/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of ivory silk crepe with over-layer of ivory organza; layered, tiered rectangles of ivory organza down front; strapless bodice silhouette with attached fine cord straps at top of a rectangle of light brown tulle with layered ivory organza rectangles over it; rectangle goes above the bodice top at the center-front; side-zip closure; full-length. Designer's label: "Akris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330355/
Coat
Coat of purple wool. Double breasted with 8 large, round, purple plastic buttons and 4 bound buttonholes. Long sleeved with slight flair to hem. Knee length. A-line with two vertical welt pockets. Rounded neckline with 1-1/4" mandarin collar. Lined in light purple silk taffeta. Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330372/
Dress
Dress of various color blocks of blues, browns, pinks, and yellow knit with 2 ¾” single shoulder strap and waistband of dark red knit; some of the geometrical blocks blocks are accented with gems, beads, and/or sequins; dress is full-length and slim fitting with 26” slit at center-back; left side-zip closure under left arm. Designer's label: "Missoni / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330352/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit ensemble: A) Blazer jacket of black silk gaberdine. Short waist with notched collar. Double breasted with four 1" mother-of-pearl buttons; closure reinforced with clear plastic button inside jacket. Three-quarter length, set-in sleeves with snap closure at slit. Two false pockets with rectangular flaps. Lined in black silk faille. B) Skirt of white linen. Knee-length skirt with 1 inch waist band. Slightly A-line. In-seam front panel pockets. Left side zipper closure with two large silver colored hook and eyes. Skirt looks to have been let out at hem. Lined in ivory silk. Designer's label on inside left seam of lining: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330343/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble A) Coat of cream and orange wool gabardine. Approximately knee-length cream wool coat, with rounded neckline. Asymmetrical front opening set to left of center with 5 large circular white ceramic or plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with orange cuffs buttoning with two matching buttons. Three orange flap pockets - two on right, one on left - with bound slit pocket under flap. Collar, opening, cuffs, and pocket flaps of orange wool gabardine. Lined in cream silk crepe. Designer's label inside at back collar: "Norell". Retailer's label at inside right seam: "Esther Wolf / Houston" B) Dress of bright orange wool gaberdine. Knee-length, with rounded neckline. Sleeveless. Bust darts. Wide straps. Left shoulder with 5 hook-and-eyes closure. Left side zipper at bodice, and second zipper and three hook and eyes at skirt. Skirt slightly gathered at natural waistline. Side seam pockets. Lined in orange silk. Designer's label at inside skirt lining seam: "Norman Norell / New York" Union Label near designer's label. Care label inside at left side seam: "DO NOT USE STEAM IRON" Small label at inside front neckline: "FRONT" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330340/
Dress
Dress of violet paisley silk crepe with black, cream, and teal accents; crepe is gathered at neckline and attached to a brass metal neck adornment with open-front; V-neckline bodice wraps around at front into wide waistband; side-zip closure under left arm; large, loose bracelet-length sleeves are gathered at the wrists into a ½” cuff with a single button closure; knee-length skirt is heavily gathered into waistband and has an attached slip of red crepe. Designer's label: "Etro" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330511/
Skirt Suit
Suit in navy wool trimmed in flat black cording. A) Jacket of navy blue wool with woven, checked pattern. Double breasted with eight black fabric covered buttons and four bound buttonholes. Notched collar. Collar and center front of jacket trimmed with black flat cording. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs trimmed with black flat cording and two small black fabric covered buttons each with two bound buttonholes. Two pockets trimmed in matching cording. Lined in blue silk. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Skirt of navy blue wool with woven, checked pattern. A-line and knee length with nine panel construction. 1 1/2" waistband with left side zipper and four hook & eye closure. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330502/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of gold metallic brocade in a floral motif with multicolored rectangles. Cocoon-style, with white fox collar, the full-length barrel sleeves with matching fur trimmed cuffs. The coat has a single button closure, and pink silk satin lining. Label: "Hattie Moss, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29999/
Bonnet.
Bonnet of blue silk. Brim is hand-quilted in square corners and curving lines that follow the shape of the brim in even lines. The brim is composed of 3 pieces of silk fabric, which are pieced together and then quilted. Cotton used as batting material throughout. The crown is entirely quilted in rows of horizontal stitching and radiating circles. The tail has L-shaped quilting, which echoes the front edge of the tail. The chin ties are striped silk ribbons. Some areas of fabric loss and shattering on bonnet and ties. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29993/
Afternoon Dress
Afternoon dress of dark green silk satin, crepe and chiffon. The tunic-style dress of dark green silk satin is street-length, with a drop waist. It has a slight standing collar at back which extends out in front to become long ties with a backing of dark maroon. Below the bow formed by the ties is V-shaped neckline. The full-length sleeves are dark green silk satin from shoulders to elbows and are translucent green crepe from elbows to cuffs. The main part of the gauze sections are embroidered with floral motifs in red, pink, and green/gold. The sleeves have two snaps at each cuff, which are trimmed with bands of pink crepe, maroon crepe, and dark green satin. On the front of the skirt are three wide, slightly overlapping tiers of fabric, split at center front, which start below the hips and end slightly above the hem. The dress is unlined, and there are no tags or labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29995/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of tan fur. Low circular crown covered in light tan fur, likely mink. Lined in pink fabric with band of blue fabric inside lower edge, overlaid with gold rickrack band. On each side along inside lower edge is a small brown plastic comb secured by black elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87082/
Pillbox Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87088/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of brown and beige printed snakeskin. The shoes have 2" high brown, square chunky heel and oval toe. Designer label: "Stuart Weitzman / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87084/
Oxfords
Lace-up oxford style shoes of brown and beige leather, with a 1" flat heel and oval toe. Brown shoe laces. Designer label: "too / JOAN / & / DAVID / handmade in italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87086/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of draped chiffon burnout velvet. Cylindrical large pillbox hat with shaped lower rim. The crown is draped/pleated horizontally in a chiffon burnout velvet with printed abstract designs burnt orange, yellow, and blue. Lined in a brocaded blue and sparkly fabric. At lower inside edge is band of gold rickrack. Designer's label inside rim at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87083/
Shoes
Pair of black patent leather "pilgrim style shoes". Designed with a pointed toe that is squared off at tip, the shoes have a black patent leather upper, the instep panel extending up to form a large tongue. Set across instep is a large silver "C" shape simulating a buckle. The chunky heel tapers to base. Inside stamp illegible. Handwritten inside: "6 AA 745" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87013/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of ivory colored leather. On back of each glove is a stitched swirl design of 5 ribs. The gloves widen to end with piped hems, and extend to about mid-forearm. Appears to be a youth size. Stamped inside gloves: A) "ARIS" logo in hemisphere; "U.S. Pat. / Aug. 22'22"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. B) "5 3/4"; "U.S. Pat. / Sept 19'22 / Made in Germany"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87118/
Bonnet
Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87048/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Cotton streamer ties. Channel stitching and eyelet lace ruffle on stiffened visor/brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87049/
Hat
Hat of cream and gray striped fabric. Low, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At back of crown is band of vertically pleated band of same fabric, which extends to edge of brim. Narrow asymmetrical brim, wider in front. At back of brim is cream bow of thick velvet "string" with trailing ends. Underside of brim lined in cream velvet which extends up to edge the brim. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Lydia / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87046/
Slippers
Pair of slippers of red silk and gold metallic brocade. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, and a panel of gold leather that extends from below the throat, up and over the instep, and almost to the instep, sewn down, and echoing the point of the toes. Crossed with a gold cord bow with large rhinestones set at each end. Almost flats, the shoes have low, carved heels with a profile similar to a compacted Louis heel. Brand stamp: "Gustinettes / Trade Mark" Stamped inside: "6 1/2M 52770" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87032/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of deep red patent leather. Designed with squared toes, the vamp is enhanced with large applied black silk rosette. Heel of same red patent leather, tapering to base. Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Fenton Last" Handwritten inside: "7B / 53992 / B1371H" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87031/
Pumps
Pairs of pumps of green reptile patchwork. The shoes are designed with a pointed toe, and uppers made of triangular sections of dyed reptile pieced together. The sections are dyed in various shades of greens and browns. The throat has an extending triangular section which is oriented to point towards the wearer's leg. The low, chunky heels are covered with the same skin, and taper to base. Designer's label inside: "SusanBennisWarrenEdwards" Stamped inside: "4514 Zig-Zag 7" Stamped on sole: "Designed by / Susan / Bennis / Warren / Edwards / Hand Made / In Itayl / 7" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87037/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of black reptile. Designed as sling-back pumps with rounded, open toes, the instep is made of wide crossed bands of black leather, enhanced with top-stitching. The sides are cut-away at ankle, and a single black strap extending around back of heel, secured with small oval gold buckle. The high heels are a modified stiletto, somewhat thick, but of same shape. Combined designer's and retailer's stamp inside: "Bruno Magli / For / Bloomingdale's / Made in Italy" Stamped inside: "R984 6 1/2" Stamped on sole: "M / Vero / Cuoio / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87038/
Gloves
Evening gloves of midnight blue satin. Dark blue jersey knit at palms and fingers. 6cm slit on back of glove (ending at wrist). Two piece arms of gloves cross to form bow-like feature on back. Elbow length. Designer Label: Lucienne Harang / M / New York digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87034/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled somewhat as a fez, the hat has a slightly conical crown with flattened top. At back are two segments of black silk braid/knotwork. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Original / Helen Smith / Marshall Field Annex - Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87075/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of woven green ribbon-like paper. The pillbox hat has a low, slightly "dimpled" crown, and is formed of woven green paper ribbon in various widths. Lower edge is turned up and folded over. At back is a flat bow of same material. Hat is unlined, with pale green grosgrain ribbon along inside lower edge as inner hatband. Attached to either side at inner hatband is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87072/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of brown woven ribbon-like paper with a lustrous finish. The shallow cylindrical crown is slightly concave at top, and has a slightly undulating lower edge. Hat is lined with a printed fabric with Asian-style scene of bamboo and birds, edged with tan/beige grosgrain ribbon, and a band of gold rickrack. Attached at each side at inner edge is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87071/
Hat
Hat of beige felt. Styled somewhat as a fedora, the cylindrical crown has a sunken, flat crown. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of golden satin ribbon, and narrow cords of gold, bronze, and silver. All tie at back, the cords becoming tassels. The wide brim curves up at front and left, down to right and back. The hat is unlined, with a wide inner hatband of pale peach. Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Original / Helen Smith / Marshall Field Annex - Chicago" Manufacturer's stamp for felt body: "Merrimac / Merrivale / Fur Felt" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87077/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black straw, net, and velvet. The hatlet is based on a metal underframe shaped as an open circle, wrapped, on which are set six black straw pompom forms set in a circle about 6" in diameter. At center of circle is a bow of narrow black velvet ribbon with 4 extending trailing ribbons. The whole is set on a circular veil of black mesh net. Designer's label: "Norman-Pualvin / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87070/
Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87078/
Hat
Hat of brown felt. Designed somewhat like a cloche, the domed crown is encircled at the base by a folded-over band of brown grosgrain ribbon tied at side, with a "pouf" of white, green, black and taupe feather. Fairly narrow brim, which is folded over and sewn down at edge, is turned up at front and left, down at right and back. The hat is unlined, with a dark brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Don Kline" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87073/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of navy blue leather. The shoes are designed with square toes and dark leather uppers. A wide rectangular panel of navy blue simulated reptile skin extends from the toe, up the vamp, below an oval cut-out in the vamp, and up the instep to create a tongue. The 2 1/4" high heel is covered with same blue leather, and tapers to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "Esprit" Stamped inside: "Leather upper & Sole / Other Mat'ls Man-Made" Handwritten inside: "5 M 0320109 / A AA 37122 5" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87002/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of black faille. Large fabric rosette applied at vamp, set with rhinestones. Heel tapers to base. Retailer's label stamped inside: "Chandler's" and "French Room / Originals" Partly illegible marks inside: ".... 4 1/2 B 2984 / 92774 - 213W" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87001/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of green leather. Styled as "sling-backs" with an open, rounded toe. The sides of the instep are connected by a square gold colored metal link. The strap at back heel is closed, with no buckle. The 3 3/4" high heel tapers slightly to base. Maker's mark stamped inside: "Palizzio" Handwritten inside: "5 B 1978 / 113PL83" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87000/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of pale pink calf leather. Designed with a rounded toe, the shoe has a double-ruffle buckle of same leather across instep. Low, 1 1/2" modified Louis heel. Maker's mark inside: "Silvia of Fiorentina / Made in Italy" Retailer's label inside: "Marie Leavell" Handwritten inside: "e 346 B i M B A" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87009/
Dress
Dress of white raw silk and linen blend. The dress is mid-length, with rounded neck and short sleeves. Set in from neckline is a narrow band of red silk with white line print forming a collar with bow at front. The trim is repeated at sleeve hems, and at lower edge of 2 faux pocket flaps at front. The dress is seamed and with short bust darts. Center back zipper closure with hook and loop at neckline. Fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label at inside left neckline: "Vera Maxwell / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87006/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of black suede. Designed with a rounded toe, the shoes have a gold colored metal edge band at lower edge of toe, and between upper and heel. The 2 1/2" high chunky heel is covered in the same suede. Stamped inside: "De Fazzio / New York" Handwritten inside: "5 B 8244" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87003/