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Texas Fashion Collection
- Dinner Dress
Dinner dress of black silk taffeta. Sleeveless. Jewel neckline with binding that forms tie in back. Zipper closure at center back extending below waist with hook & eye at neckline and snap at bottom. Pleated bodice and skirt with with non-pleated waist block. Tea length. Unlined with petersham of black grosgrain ribbon fastened with hook & eye. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330535/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress with black, cotton knit bodice and full, chocolate brown silk faille skirt. Bodice has long sleeves with zippered wrists. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye. Stand up, mandarin collar. Bodice forms V at center front, gathered waist. Lined in black organdy with built in petticoats of black tulle. Six inch wide black grosgrain petersham at inner waist with 5 large hook & eyes.
Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam of skirt towards hem: "Norman Norell for Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330538/
Coat of pea green wool. A-line, double-breasted, with eight smooth, round beige plastic buttons with four bound buttonholes. Pointed, rolled collar. Vertical, single-welt pockets at each side. Long, set-in sleeves. Lined in celery green taffeta.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330529/
- Ensemble - Dress, Belt, and Shoes
A) Dress of wax coated metallic Bordeaux. Strapless, the heavy-weight fabric is stiffened and crinkled with fold accents; top spreads outward along neckline; dress has fitted under-structure with boning; mid-length; fully lined in maroon silk satin; side zip-closures.
Designer's label: "Dolce & Gabbana / Made in Italy"
Handwritten label: "POR F6A83T/R0226"
B,C) 2 corset belts of silver metal with black lace-up closure at back and 2 locks with keys each at front; flat head screw accents.
Each lock engraved with designer's label: "Dolce & Gabbana"
D,E) Pumps of silver patent leather with pointed toe. Around lower section of toe box and heel are a line of simulated flat head screw accents. High spike heel. Size 39.
Designer's label inside: "Dolce & Gabbana / Made in Italy"
Stamped on sole: "Vero Cuoio / Made in Italy" "DG" "39" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330510/
- Shift Dress
Daytime shift dress of oatmeal wool knit. Short set-in sleeves trimmed in dark brown wool knit. Mandarin style stand up collar of dark brown wool knit. Below knee length with 5-1/2 inch hem extension of matching dark brown wool knit. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye. Two large patch pockets set below hips at sides. Lined in very pale beige/rose silk.
Designer's label on side seam of lining near hem: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label a back neckline: "Sakowitz / Houston M" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330381/
- Skirt Suit
Suit of gold silk gaberdine.
a) Jacket of gold silk gaberdine. Single-breasted, waist-length jacket has notched collar. Long sleeves with one 7/8" button with bound button hole at lower edge. Two 7/8" buttons with bound buttonholes as closure. Lined in gold silk.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at back neckline: "Marie Leavell"
b) Skirt of gold silk gaberdine. Knee length; A-line; slightly gathered into 1" waistband. Two large front patch pockets. Left side zipper with two hook & eyes on waistband. Slits at side seams at hemline. Lined in gold silk.
c) Webbed belt of same fabric attached to skirt. 1-3/4" wide. Self covered buckle.
Stamp on reverse: "10 Norman Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330357/
Dress of black wool knit. Skirt gathers into waistline seam. Five rhinestone buttons at center front opening below waist and seven above; closure at neckline reinforced with two snaps. Hook and eye at waistline. Long set-in sleeves with five working buttons each. Knee-length. Black satin bow which is attached at the neckline. Clear rhinestone buttons are formed by large center stone surrounded by 10 smaller stones. Side slit pockets. Unlined.
Retailer's label at inside neckline: "Balliets / Oklahoma City, Okla."
Belt of black satin. Three inches wide with rectangular self covered buckle. Three rectangular machine-made, barred buttonhole style buckle holes.
Back of belt stamped: "6 Norman Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330480/
- Day Dress
Day dress of gray/white print silk taffeta. Street- or tea-length, of paper silk taffeta printed with a dense design of varying sizes of small white polka dots on a gray ground. V-neckline, with bow of self just below point. 3/4 length dolman sleeves. Full skirt, cut for crinoline. Center back zipper.
Designer's label: "Traina-Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330446/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of red wool printed with black and gray floral designs in vertical stripes.
A) Jacket. Quilted jacket with slight shawl collar, long sleeves, center front opening with two large circular red plastic buttons. Collar, opening, hem, and sleeves with black edging. Lined in dark red rayon.
Designer's label: "Hanae Mori / Tokyo, New York"
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Content/Care label: "Out Cloth: 100% Wool / Lining: 100% Rayon / Size 10 / Made in Japan / Dry Cleaning Only"
B) Skirt of matching print fabric. Not quilted, the street-length skirt has a narrow waistband with hook-and-eye at center back and zipper below. Lined in same dark red rayon.
Care/Content label, partly in Japanese, partly in international pictorial symbols. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330412/
- Day Dress
Day dress of ecru wool jersey with black patent leather belt and black satin bow.
a) Shift day dress of ecru wool jersey. Long, set-in sleeves. Street length. Rolled collar with pointed ends. Center front opening with 9 circular, flat, 3/4" black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Large patch pockets at sides below hips. Lined in cream silk.
Designer's label on inside lining at left seam near hem: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas"
b) Large bow of black silk. Attaches under collar of dress with two large covered snaps.
c) Belt of black patent leather. 1" wide with self covered rectangular buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330455/
- Day Dress
a) Day dress in shift style of light blue-green sage jersey wool knit. Street length. Center front opening with 11 circular blue-green plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Convertible collar with 5" pointed ends and small non-functioning matching button and bound buttonhole at ends. Long sleeves with 3" cuffs and two small matching buttons with bound buttonholes. Two large patch pockets at sides, below waist. Lined in light sage colored silk crepe.
Designer's label at inside left seam of lining: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas"
b) Matching belt of self. 7' x 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330448/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of champagne chiffon with swirl gold details of metallic thread and sequins; metallic trim at strapless neckline and a silk ribbon bow center-front at empire waistline; bust is heavily embellished with gold beads and sequins; bust has boning and is lined in silk; skirt has attached slip of silk crepe; full-length; side-zip closure.
Designer's label: "Oscar de la Renta" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330408/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of two pieces:
A) Trench coat; little black slip dress laminated within clear plastic trench coat; slip dress has spaghetti straps, and lace trim at upper bodice and hem; trench coat has double breasted front opening; notched collar; buckles at wrists; slanted pocket lapels at hips with no pockets.
Designer's label molded into plastic: "Gaultier / Pairs"
B) Dress of pale pink chiffon with shadowing, and sequin and bead embellishments which create a realistic “nude woman" figure; sleeveless; full-length.
No label in dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330478/
Coat of camel-colored wool flannel. A-line; double breasted style with a round collar. There are 8 brown, circular plastic buttons center front with four bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with large covered snap at neckline. Two vertical welt pockets at each side. Long, set-in sleeves. Lined in matching silk.
Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell for Bonwit Teller" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330462/
- Dinner Dress
Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined.
Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330492/
- Day Dress
Day dress of navy blue wool knit. Knee-length with princess seams. 1-1/2 inch standing collar. Short set-in sleeves. Two large patch pockets placed low on hip wrap around side seam from front to back. Centered zipper closure at back. Lined in navy silk.
Designer label at left inside seam near hem: "Norman Norell / New York"
3 inch wide black patent leather belt with patent buckle.
Stamped in gold on back of belt: " 6 Norman Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330472/
- Child's Dress
Tunic-style dress for a child. Of off-white cotton with an intricate floral motif print in various shades of greens and pinks outlined in a thin line of grey; yoke with shirring at center-back and pin pleats below yoke at center-front; 1” straps with tiny floral print of pinks; yoke is lined in off-white cotton and dress has attached under-layer with 1 ½” hem that matches print on straps; A-line silhouette. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330417/
- Day Dress
Day dress of red wool knit. Above-knee length. Dress has a high band collar and long cuffed sleeves. Two large patch pockets at hips. Center-back zipper. Red lace band inside at hem. Partly lined in red acetate(?).
Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York"
Tie belt of same material, 3/4" wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330496/
- Coat Dress
A) Coat-dress of beige linen with black linen trim at collar, center front and pockets. Knee-length. Rounded, Peter-Pan collar. Elbow length kimono sleeves. Center front opening with 3 circular black buttons at top and zipper from waist to hem. Two large patch pockets placed low on hips wrap around side seam from front to back. Lined in cream silk.
B) Belt of self fabric backed with pale tan leather, 1 in wide. Rectangular cloth-covered buckle in self fabric.
Combined retailer and designer label inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330468/
Tank dress of ecru silk organza and cotton with floral embellishment of self-fabric at center neckline; bodice is composed of vertical panels of mesh, stretch nylon, and cotton; skirt of paneled, crinkled cotton has ties that can be cinched up gathering the fabric; underskirt of silk organza with ties to raise skirt in sections; full-length; center-back zip closure.
Label: Donna Karan/ (Duplicate/ Not For Sale/ Style # Z2043) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330460/
Day dress of brown and cream striped linen. Shift style; slightly A-line. Horizontal stripes on front of dress are individually sewn pieces with back of dress solid brown. Rounded neckline; sleeveless. Neckline and armholes edged in brown linen. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye at neckline. Lined in off-white silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330416/
- Ensemble - Dress and Sandals
A) Dress of blues and black metallic knit, and ivory open-woven wool/ cashmere knit with long sleeves with deep armhole; scoop neckline; lined in off-white, fine wool jersey; knee-length.
No label in dress.
B,C) Sandals of royal blue satin accented with striped bands of black satin; open-toe; 4 ½” spike heel and ankle straps with blue ribbon bow at back; size 38.
Designer's label: "Nina Ricci / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330403/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head.
The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30205/
Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon.
Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30237/
Sunbonnet of black silk taffeta. The brim of the hat has 6 shirred hoops with deep padding in between, and a ruffled edge of the same fabric. At center back of neck, on the tail of the hat, is a flat bow of black silk taffeta, and the ties are of black silk taffeta ribbon. The crown is lined with brown glazed cotton fabric.
The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30079/
Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis"
Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30076/
- Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30073/
- D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede.
Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear"
The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30078/
Purse / Handbag for afternoon use. Rectangular plain polished gunmetal / steel frame with ball/snap closure and matching chain of elongated links. Body of purse formed of gunmetal / steel mesh, with linked chain latticework along bottom edge, terminating in small spheres. Purse of gunmetal mesh, suitable for afternoon use.
Inside of frame is engraved "Bessie H. Brown" and "Dallas Texas 4205 Swiss Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30074/
Handbag. Arched frame of silver (plated?), lightly chased and engraved. Openwork areas on sides of frame allow rings from suspension chain to slide up and down acting as "locks". Mesh bag with enameled design of flowers. Inside bag are makers tag marked: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis Co. / Bags / Reg. U.S. & Can." and brand tag marked "El Sah". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30077/
Handbag. Rectangular silver art deco openwork frame set with tiny marcasites and circular cabochon black stones (onyx?). Bag is of black silk velvet. Handle of black silk velvet with two silver rings set with marcasites. Lined with dusty pink ribbed silk, and containing a small rectangular mirror.
Marked on frame: "MD" in a square; Diamond shaped mark with an M over a K; and an illegible shield-shaped punch. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30047/
Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels.
There are three labels in the coat:
Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co."
Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas"
Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30048/
Black velvet calotte (also spelled "calot") covered with faux pearls and diamonds. The circular domed hat has a narrow, up-turned brim which is completely covered with a latticework of oval faux pearls, with faux diamonds set at each intersection. At the top of the crown is an upstanding black velvet covered wire surmounted by a "mushroom cap" beaded in the same way as the rest of the hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon, the hat lined in black netting. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30041/
- Beachwear Ensemble - Bikini and Coverup
Beach ensemble consisting of bikini and coverup.
The bikini top and bottom are of jersey printed with a modern art design of greens, pink and red stripes. Top has ties that go up and behind neck, and bands that reach around to back and secure with metal clasp. At front, between the cups along top edge is a non-functional tie made of piping made from the jersey material. Bikini bottom is low-cut. The coverup is of light chiffon, possibly silk, with swirling stripes in the same pattern as bikini. It is sleeveless, has a boat neckline, and rounded hemline.
The pieces of the ensemble have various tags:
In bikini top: "12"
In bikini bottom: "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia"; Made in Italy / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus"; "Made in Italy"; "12"; Helanca / Filanca / Marche Int. Dep."
Stamped near hem of coverup: "Enzo Mari Per / Fio / Rio"; Sewn in tags: "Fio / Rio"; "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia".
Pattern designed by Enzo Mari (b. Novara, Italy, 1932).
From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30036/
Woman's black velour top hat. Designed after a man's top hat, this version has a cylindrical, slightly domed crown and narrow velour-covered brim which gently curves up. The brim has a second section below, also covered in black velour, that curves downwards, giving the brim an appearance of thickness. Around the lower part of the crown is a folded black silk taffeta grosgrain ribbon, with a large simulated silver metal buckle placed near the front on the right side of the hat. The buckle is of stamped metal simulating cut steel. The hat is lined in black silk.
Embroidered label sewn to lining inside crown includes an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30037/
Monastic Dress of red and black floral printed cotton. The dress is street-length, with natural shoulders, long sleeves and a high scoop neckline. At the waist is a black leather belt which passes through the garment at the sides, allowing the sides of the dress to be loose and flowing. The belt has a snap closure, and is designed to look "tied" at front.
Also referred to as a Trapeze dress.
Dress has two labels sewn inside at back of collar. Designer's label: "Claire McCardell Clothes / by Townley" and Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Belt has stamped in white on the back: "10 Claire McCardell 608"
From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30030/
Coat of floral brocade and blue velvet. The mid-length wrap coat is made of Jacquard woven silk(?)in a pattern of flowers in blues, taupe, and browns on a dark brown ground, with metallic gold stitching throughout. The raglan sleeves and the collar are edged in wide bands of gathered ruched aqua blue/green velvet. Center front opening with no closures. The coat is lined in aqua blue/green velvet.
No labels in garment.
Owned by Mrs. Carlton L. Yager of California, aunt of the donor, who called it her "Opera Coat". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30232/
Cloche-style hat of off-white wool felt. The hat has a deep, cylindrical, domed crown of off-white or cream felt which extends downwards on one side. Around the crown is black zig-zag stitching, and on the side where the crown extends downwards is an applied strip of felt, looped, secured through a stiffened loop of red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30234/
- Hopsacking Pants
Men's pants of embroidered "hopsacking". The tailored trousers are made in the style of jeans, but of an ochre/golden brown cotton hopsacking material. Full-length, the legs flare slightly to hems. Jeans-style pockets, two welt pockets on front and two patch pockets on back. Waistband has beltloops spaced throughout. Zipper fly at front with three buttons to secure waistband. The pants have an all-over embroidery in vertical and horizontal bands of stylized leaves, triangles, and other shapes in gold, white, green, yellow, and magenta.
There are no labels in the garment.
The Valerian Stux-Rybar collection of materials was donated by Jean-Francois Daigre to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in memory of Daigre's companion V.Stux-Rybar. Part of collection was subsequently transferred from the Metropolitan Museum of Art to the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30239/
Dress of printed cotton. The floor-length dress is of cotton with a printed geometric design of a lattice of black rectangles on white background. It is sleeveless, with black spaghetti straps. There is a wide black "belt" of "quilted" cotton just below the bust, with a bow in front. The dress has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures at top. It is fully lined in thin white fabric.
The designer's label is sewn inside bodice: "Clifton / Wilhite / Dallas"; a second label is sewn just below designer's label: "Lot 6464 Size 14" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30236/
Dress. Full-length sleeveless evening dress of printed silk. The bodice has a rounded neckline, bust darts, and widens slightly at hips. The silk print on the bodice is of horizontal stripes of black, yellow, green, and red. The skirt starts at a dropped waist, and is a slight "A" line in form. The printed on the skirt is of an Op Art pattern of pink, red, black, green, and purple squares and circles within squares, and with two large black squares, one on front and one on back. Black band at hem. The dress has a center back zipper closure and is lined in black silk. It has an accompanying black silk belt, 2" wide, with two domed buttons covered in black silk as closures.
The dress has two labels sewn inside at back collar, to right of zipper. Maker's label: "Axel / of Denmark / 42" and second tag "Pure silk / by D'Este" [care instructions pictographs] and on reverse [care instructions pictographs] "Made in / Italy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30233/
Dinner dress of printed silk organza. The dress is composed of two parts. The caftan-like outer layer of the dress consists of a square silk organza cocoon printed in psychedelic motifs in purples, blues, pinks and chartreuse. It has a high rounded neckline with center back opening secured with six loops and covered buttons. There are applied flat cuffs at the wrist openings and waist-level slits at center front to accommodate the sash. There is a center front slit from hem to knee-level.
The inner dress is a matching, full-length, sleeveless sheath in printed silk of the same design. It has a high rounded neckline with center back zipper closure from neck to hip with a single hook-and-eye closure at the neckline. The outer caftan and inner sheath are joined at the neckline. There is a printed silk organza sash of the same fabric that meets at center front and secures with two hook-and-eye closures and has self ties to disguise closure. The sash is swing tacked at the back. There is a center front slit from the hem to knee-level. Lime green silk panels are inset at sideseams, running from the underarm to the hem, and may be later additions to the garment. The dress is fully lined in green silk crepe.
Designer's label located inside left center back, beside the zipper: Pierre Cardin / Paris New York". Retailer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Maisonette / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30265/
Dress. Floor-length dress of ivory knit, overlaid with a gold netting. Sleeveless and with a boat-neckline, the sheath-style dress has ornate heavy gold cording around neckline, armholes, along side-seams, and hem. The skirt has small side slits, and a center lapped zipper closure located along center-back of garment with hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Lined with a light polyester. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30309/
Dress of multi-colored velvets. The floor-length dress has an empire waist and bell-shaped long sleeves. The upper, bodice, section is made of a sheer, multi-colored fabric woven with bands of gold thread. Over the bodice is applied sections of burnout velvet in various colors, forming bands running up the bodice, over the shoulders, and down the back, another band forming a 1" high collar, and as 2" bands around each wrist. The sections are bordered in gold cording. The lower, skirt, section is of green velvet printed in browns, greens, and gold in an abstract geometric/organic design. Fully lined in green silk(?). Center back zipper from neckline to just above waist. Three hook-and-loop closures on collar.
Designer label sewn alongside zipper at shoulder-blade height at right: "Ronald Amey / New York". Evidence of removed label at inside, center front of dress below neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30306/
- Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment.
The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/
- Evening Suit
Evening suit of black velvet. The ensemble consists of a jacket of black velvet with machine embroidered vine and floral motifs in black threads and black beads. The coat has a notched collar, long sleeves with wide cuffs and two non-functional buttons on each sleeve, and two non-functional pockets at front. Center-front opening with two circular black satin-covered buttons. The lapels, cuffs, and pocket flaps are all of black satin. The knee-length skirt of of the same fabric, with satin waistband. Short zipper closure at side with two hook-and-eyes in waistband.
Designer's label inside jacket at collar: "Givenchy", with model number written on cloth tape sewn underneath label: "74075" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30268/
Dress and belt. The dress has an empire-length bodice of white organdy with short sleeves, deep V-neckline in front and shallow boat neckline in back and is densely beaded with large and small white beads. From the lower edge of the beaded bodice a band of blue silk satin with a printed pattern of different sizes of white polka dots extends down to dropped waist length, covering the midriff. The full skirt, of the same polka dot material, is above-the-knee length, and has box pleats which start from the dropped waist level. The dress has a zipper closure along the left side seam of the midriff section, and the closure continues up along the lower part of the empire bust line seam to the base of the V-neckline with a series of alternating covered snaps and hook-and-eyes. The bodice section is lined with white organdy, the midriff section with blue silk, and the skirt is unlined. Designer's label is sewn inside bodice near right armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France", with a second label sewn underneath with handwritten notation "80932". The dress has an accompanying belt covered with matching blue fabric with printed polka dots and backed with black leather. The buckle is also covered with blue polka dot fabric. The belt has no labels or marks.
Not shown in photo are matching high-heeled pumps by Rene Mancini, Pairs, and matching envelope clutch handbag also by Mancini.
From Givenchy's Spring 1992 Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30252/
- Evening Dress, Purse, and Shoes
Gold patterned evening dress with jacket, shoes and clutch.
A) Jacket: tailored, cropped shell in peacock eye, gold metallic brocade with red and mauve highlights. Jewel neckline with full-length set-in sleeves. The neckline and cuffs are embellished with wide bands of gold cord, gold beads and large gold, yellow and red rhinestones. Fully lined in gold silk. Shoulder pads.
B) Dress: Fitted, slightly dropped waist, sleeveless bodice with scooped neckline and low plunging back. Centerback zipper closure with a single hook & eye at the neckline. Slightly dropped waistseam with full, gathered, pouf skirt. The skirt has an asymetrical hem falling from knee-level centerfront to mid-calf centerback. Sideseam hip-level pockets. The bodice piece lined with gold chiffon. Waist stay of gold silk.
Bust pads. The skirt is self lined with a rolled and poufed hem. There is a large tuck in the skirt lining, possibly from an alteration.
Label: "Givenchy / Made in France"
C-D) Shoes: matching gold brocade, high heeled pumps. Tan leather soles. Gold leather lining with stamped label in instep.
Label: "Rene Mancini / Paris / Fait Main"
E) Clutch: matching gold brocade envelope clutch with magnetic clasp closure. Pleated accents on flap. Gold interior clips for chain. Ivory silk faille lining with patch pocket.
Label: Rene Mancini. Paris. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30251/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat. The hat is of natural woven Milan straw, forming a wide shaped brim that curves downwards to the edges. Brim is rounded in front, flaring out slightly to back and forming two projecting lobes at back. Around brim is a band of woven straw for strength. Very low cylindrical crown, slightly domed. Around crown is twisted gold velvet band forming bow with trailing ribbons at back. Inside base of crown is off-white grosgrain ribbon band.
Sewn into inner ribbon band is label: "John Frederics Inc. / New York", "Made In America". Label has three rhinestones sewn to it, and has two small green ribbon bows at opposing corners. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30124/
- Evening Coat
Evening coat of black, metallic silver, and metallic gold brocade in a geometric "Byzantine" design. Full-length, with no collar and with 3/4 length sleeves. Center-front opening with 6 hammered brass buttons and loop button-holes. The center front opening, shoulders, and cuffs are accented with gold braid which has rhinestones set along the length. The coat is lined in yellow/orange silk crepe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30123/