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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hatlet
Hatlet of white silk. Split top crown forms two petals to each side. Top, center of crown has one big white silk gardenia(?)flower with two green leaves on either side. Three smaller leaves at center back. White veil drapes from crown around sides and front. Pink fabric covers intricate inner frame. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305373/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black velvet with domed crown and wide brim edged in black satin. Hatband of pleated black satin. Bright green ostrich feathers on left side of crown. Lined in pink fabric. Designer's label: "Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif." Retailer's label: "Yvonne / Hats / California" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305388/
Hat
Hat of light brown leather printed with dark brown "squiggles". The domed crown is surmounted by a circular button covered with same leather. Around base of crown is a narrow band of same leather, tied, with trailing ends. The wide, floppy brim bends downwards. Unlined, with the leather is backed with a felt-like material. Inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. No labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305338/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of navy straw cloth. Small upturned brim is separate from crown and forms Vs at sides. Pale pink rose with green leaves on left front as trim with navy veil embellished with rhinestones. Lined in navy satin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305337/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk faille. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and has one large ruby red silk rose at center front of the side. Lined in black satin, with a single comb inside to secure hat to wearer's head. No label in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305384/
Neiman Marcus Cap
Cap of blue felt. Designed as a modified baseball cap, the domed felt crown has a semi-circular visor at front. On front side of crown is top-stitched decoration in white yarn of outlines enclosing "N" and "M". Hat is unlined, with inner blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's tag: "Made in England expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" With sticker: "100% Wool" With original "Sample" tag labeled "C407" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305379/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black shiny straw. Edge curls up and makes small brim on center back. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label on inside headband: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305367/
Hatlet
Hatlet of fine woven dark blue straw. Low, flattened crown is in the form of a "pancake" hat, with a dark blue velvet bow at front and a small dark blue velvet "button" at back. Designer's label: "Sally V / Designed by Sally Victor" Retailer's label: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305346/
Toque
Toque of dark navy blue felt. The cylindrical crown has a flattened top which extends as a panel slightly above the sides, and the extension is encircled by a muted purple satin ribbon. Unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Sharon / Originals" Stamped inside crown: "Body Made In Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305361/
Hat
Pillbox style hat covered with blue-green-blackish iridescent coque feathers. Trim of brown horsehair and high standing feathers of self from center of crown. Brown felt interior crown with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Titche's / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305371/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of brown satin with 2 V-shaped temple clips. Clips and rim trimmed with 4 rows of bronze beading. Lined in brown netting. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305399/
Mushroom Hat
Cocktail mushroom hat of black silk gazar. Over-sized, with flat top and slightly downward turned 6" brim. Pillbox inner crown with black grosgrain inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305385/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black straw with horsehair brim extension. Top trimmed with white lily of the valley silk flowers with green leaves. Unlined crown with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305356/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet with black pleated satin coil wrapping around brim of hat. Two vertical bands of rhinestones embellish left and right front of hat. Retailer's label on inside headband: "The Fair / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305395/
Hat
Suit hat of black velour. Rounded 4" deep crown. 2" wide front upward turned brim. 1/2" wider at sides, turning downward at center back. Has large black ostrich feather tassel at center back. Lined in netting with gray grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Comb at center front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305345/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of dark brown silk faille. Three touching bows of same around sides and front of crown with V point in back. Lined in net with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305347/
Pillbox Hat
Small pillbox of off-white pleated satin. The low crown is flat, and formed of spirally pleated/overlapped satin, the sides with similarly pleated horizontal band. Lined with off-white netting, and with a white velvet inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Accompanied by a single pearl-headed hatpin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305351/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of dark violet velvet. Four light violet and four dark violet "leaves" as trim around crown. Veil of purple netting over front of hat. Lined in purple net. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305334/
Headpiece
Headpiece of bright yellow netting. Headband is circular and covered in yellow velvet ribbon with bow of same. Crown is yellow netting trimmed with yellow flowers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305355/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Wide, flat brim with trim of self around crown. Two ties of self for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in black netting with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305397/
Hat
Hat of ivory leather. Narrow brim curves up in back and down in front. High cylindrical crown. Entire hat has horizontal top stitching with exception of narrow hatband. Lined in pink silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Yves Saint Laurent / Paris Chicago" Size tag at left of designer's label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305349/
Hat
Hat of navy blue woven straw and mesh. Designed somewhat as a modified sailor or "Pamela" hat, the high crown is domed at top, and encircled at the base with a mesh band that forms a bow at side. The brim is of navy blue mesh, turning up at outer edge. The outer "walls" formed by the turned-up area is covered in the same woven straw as the crown. Hat is unlined, allowing net understructure to be seen, and has a pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305343/
Derby Hat
Hat in derby style of navy felt. Edge of crown trimmed in wide bands of navy, gray and red yarn with very narrow gold thread knots tied to tasseled ends of yarn bands. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker/retailer's label: "A / Neiman / Marcus / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305382/
Toque Hat
Toque style hat covered with pheasant feathers. The high, cylindrical, domed crown of brown felt is completely covered with a mosaic of various colored feathers including yellow with black edge, iridescent green, blue, orange, burnt sienna, browns, and iridescent grays. Inner hatband of hot pink grosgrain ribbon. Hatpin with white spherical head. Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305359/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of golden yellow/brown fur felt. The cylindrical crown is slightly domed at top, and the sides slant slightly outwards to base. At left side, near front, is a "brush" of golden yellow/brown "feather-hay", held in place by a line of rhinestones which curves at each end. Hat is lined in tan fabric with printed designs in one quadrant. Inner hatband of brown/yellow/tan grosgrain ribbon. Evidence of holes to attach combs at each side to secure hat to wearer's head, now missing. Designer's label inside at back edge: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305340/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of deep rose colored velvet. Double upturned brim with one velvet flower on left front. One large hatpin with head of large and small pearls separated by a band of rhinestones. Coordinating front veil. Lined in gold metallic fabric with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Label on inside crown: "Irene / of New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305370/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black jersey. The cylindrical crown has a flat, slightly recessed top, and bands of black silk ribbon decoration applied horizontally around sides. Upper and lower bands are of plain layered ribbon forming slightly molded bands, while central band is of twisted/folded/worked ribbon creating a dimensional braided pattern. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband and a single small faux turtle shell comb to help secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305376/
Hat
Hat of artificial flowers. The under-structure, styled as a modified derby, is of openwork mesh, covered with small artificial flowers in white, pink, and green. The domed crown is encircled at the base by a wide yellow satin ribbon, tied in a bow at back. The brim curves upwards to edge, and is bound in green fabric at edge. Unlined, with an inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Sally Victor / Sally V" With Union label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305331/
Hat
Hat of black silk organza. Shallow crown with 5" wide, down-turned brim. Brim covered with large organza overlapping petals. Lined in net with black grosgrain inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305332/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of deep red velour with four bows of self around edge of crown. Lined in red netting. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305360/
Beret
Beret of ivory wool felt with gold crown amulet embellished with rhinestones in front. Red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305374/
Calotte
Calotte of black straw and black velvet. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a low, domed black velvet crown overlaid with a "pinwheel" made of large woven black straw triangles. At top of crown is a maroon velvet cord knot. Hat is lined in dark blue, with a dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Sally V / Designed by Sally Victor" Retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305387/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of black velvet with 1/2" downward brim. Twisted black satin hatband encircling crown. Large rhinestone ball with encircled with pearls in center front as trim. Lined in black satin with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Manufacturer's label: "Stephen Anne / Custom Made" Retailer's label: "Millinery - Salon / White House / Beaumont" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305327/
Pumps
Pair of green suede pumps. Vamp of shoe with 5 bands of green satin ribbon running across the vamp and throat. The throat has V-cut sections on either side, with crossing bands of suede where the V intersects the ribbon. Lined in cream/grey kid leather. 2 1/2" high modified continental heels, covered in green suede. Stamped inside right shoe: " 'Charmant' / Fashions / A. Harris & Co. Dallas". Noted inside both shoes: "38 - 0 14465" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30091/
Dinner Gown
Dinner gown of red velvet. The full-length dress is of deep red velvet, embroidered in black to form an all-over pattern of "fish scales". Neckline is rounded, higher in front than back, and has full-length sleeves with a modified leg-of-mutton effect at the shoulders and zipper closures at wrists. The bodice is seamed, and has a natural waistline. The neckline, waistline, and upper part of sleeves/shoulders are edged in black cording/braid. Skirt is slightly gathered into the waistline braid. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye closure at neck. Small panel lining front of bodice at bust, the rest of the gown unlined. No label sewn in garment, but retains original paper tag: obverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original"; reverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original / Fibre Content / 100% Wool / Style 121 / Size [blank] / Mat. [blank] / Account No. [blank]". This gown is one of the "Dance Hall Girl" dresses from Ms. Maxwell's Southwest American Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30090/
Ballgown
Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red satin. The jacket is lined in olive green satin, which shows the quilting, and has built-in shoulder pads. There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30259/
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of black silk gazar. The halter-style neckline of the dress ends in straps at center back of the fitted, dropped-waist bodice. The skirt is a semi-full, gathered, mid-thigh length. There is a boned inner bodice of black silk tulle with bust pads, grosgrain bust and waist stays fastening with hooks-and-eyes, an elaborate closure involving halter drape and inner and outer zippers down the left sideseam and five snaps that secure the halter panel and disguise the zipper. Fully lined in black chiffon. Label stitched on right side of inner bodice "Givenchy" and "Made In France". Underneath Givenchy label is sewn-in tape with hand-written note: "80 945" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30253/
Sunburst Dress
Black "sunburst" evening dress with bustle. The fitted, full-length sheath is of black silk satin with black velvet "sunburst" motif repeated over the dress. The gown is strapless, with diagonally draped over-panels that meet at center front and form a large bow which tilts up to cover the left shoulder. There is a zipper closure along the left sideseam with hook-and-eye closure at neckline which is concealed by the bust panel, which is snapped to the dress and bow. The back waistline seam has a three-tiered ruffled bustle which has a snap at left side to accommodate the zipper. The skirt flares from knee to hemline. There is a boned black silk inner bodice with bust pads and bust and waist stays. The inner bodice has a zipper closure at left side, just inside the outer zipper. Designer's label inside garment, stitched over right side bone: "Givenchy / Made In / France". Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows the gown as displayed with a hat by Balenciaga (Accession #: 1981.022.026). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30250/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of ivory satin and black lace. Garment is a full-length, A-line ivory satin dress with 3 wide horizontal bands of applied black lace on skirt and an attached black lace empire-style over-bodice. The bodice, consisting of overlapping lace scallops, has a deep square neckline and full-length sleeves. There are two covered snap closures on each wrist and a series of paired covered snap closures down center back. The dress has a center-back zipper with a single hook-and-eye fastener at the neckline. The ivory silk inner bodice has internal steel(?) boning for shaping, and fastens with a center-back zipper and internal grosgrain band waist stay. Inside the gown is a full-length, attached ivory satin slip with horsehair hem. The dress is piece-lined in ivory organza with a horsehair hem. Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "4677S". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30258/
Tunic
Tunic of gold brocade. Knee-length A-line tunic with open rounded neckline and 3/4-length sleeves. The neckline, cuffs and hem are embellished with applied bands of gold, silver, topaz and rose-colored bugle beads, sequins and rhinestones. Center back zipper closure with four hook-and-eye closures at the neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30254/
Jumpsuit
Jumpsuit of pink, yellow, green and blue horizontal striped paper. The full-length rayon fiber remay paper pantsuit has olive green, pink, blue and tan stripes. Bodice is sleeveless, empire style, with with high rounded neckline and narrow spread collar, with stripes going horizontally. There is a center back zipper closure from the neck to hip-level. Pants are full-length, wide legged palazzo pants with vertical stripes. The pant legs are slit from the hem to mid-calf, and are unhemmed. The piece is lined in a white rayon fiber paper cloth. Retailer's label at inside left beneath the collar: "Change-In-Time / Boutique / Dallas, Texas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30035/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of brown linen. Made of a plain weave with both white and brown threads, the hat has pasteboard staves within the brim, a crenelated buttoning crown and long tail. The crown and tail are separate pieces, sewn together at neck seam, with the tail fastening to the sides of the brim by 3 off-white buttons on each side. The tail is semi-circular in shape, and the narrow chin ties are hemmed by hand. Poke-style bonnets are generally those that have brims stiffened either through quilting or plain starched fabric. Sunbonnets that rely on staves for brim support are not considered poke-style sunbonnets. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30075/
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress. The bodice of the dress is of sheer black wool, with a Peter Pan style collar and short sleeves which are shirred at the ends. There is a narrow black satin ribbon at waist where the bodice meets the skirt. The skirt is composed of three layers. The innermost layer is of thick black chiffon, the middle layer is thin black chiffon/crepe. The outer layer is of panels of black and white printed hounds tooth/plaid chiffon, the panels arranged vertically and slit from 5" below waistline to hemline. The panels are gathered/pleated into the waistband. At the top of each slit is an applied black satin bow, forming a row of bows around the hip-line of the skirt. Each panel has side borders of black satin ribbon. The dress has a center-back zipper from neckline to below hips, with a single hook-and-eye at top of collar. There is an inner black grosgrain ribbon waistband, with hook-and-eye closure. The bodice is lined in sheer black material. Designer's label inside skirt: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30072/
Dress
Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. The dress is accompanied by a long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". No labels on scarf. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30225/
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. The accompanying straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". This garment reflects Adrian's celebration of the lifting of wartime restrictions on types and quantities of materials and trimmings that could be used in making clothes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30229/
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble of gold and silver Lurex knit consisting of blouse and skirt. Long sleeved blouse with round neckline and ties at wrists. Trimmed at lower hem with wide black ribbon which ties at side. Matching full-length skirt. On both pieces the knitting is done to simulate the effect of fine pleating. Each piece has designer label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30223/
Boots
Pair of black suede boots. Over-calf-height square-toed boots lace up front, with 3 rows of eyelets at bottom and 15 hooks above. Block heel is covered in black suede. Lined in off-white kid leather and with a rubber and leather sole. Impressed in rubber sole: "Made in France". Stamped on lining inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "8 1/2 2A 468069 LE" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30221/
Pumps
Pair of deep wine red leather pumps. Shoes have a V-throat on vamp and are edged with thin bands of taupe leather around vamp and along outside panel ending in a triangular shape. 3 1/2" Continental set-back heel almost a stiletto, but wider and more oval in cross-section. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "Orient". Stamped inside each heel: "39 B / 63586 E". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30220/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of heavily beaded beige silk satin. The bodice of the full-length gown has an empire waist, a wide scoop neckline, and is sleeveless. It has princess seaming, and internal boning at center front of the neckline. The skirt has fullness from the widening of the panels. The skirt and lower part of the bodice are beaded with floral/foliate forms in pinks, browns, yellows, clear and iridescent beads. The upper part of the bodice, in a deep band around neckline, back, and straps, is totally covered in iridescent sequins, beaded flower heads in bronze/brown and clear beads. The bodice is lined and has internal structures to help support and give form to the gown. The skirt is lined with stiff netting, and has an internal attached net crinoline. The gown has a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30227/
Ensemble - Dress and Bolero Jacket
Ensemble. The dress is of ivory wool, full-length, and sleeveless with a scoop-neck. Slightly A-line, with a slit at left side from hem up 18". Neckline is lower in back than front, and there is a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label in dress at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York". The accompanying bolero jacket is of red-orange with long sleeves. The cuffs, mandarin collar, hem, and center-front opening are edged with a wide band of off-white fur (fox or mink?). The jacket is decorated with closely-sewn rhinestones. The jacket is fully lined in cream fabric, and has a single hook-and-eye closure near throat. The jacket has no labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30222/