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Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of: 1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. Wide band of red fabric lining inside of front panel at hem. Back of bodice formed of red cloth with vertical white stripes. Embroidered panels under arms. Back of skirt formed of upper panel of purple printed with blue and off-white flowers and leaves, heavily gathered into waistband. Lower panel of purple fabric, as full as upper panel. Black hem on back of skirt. 2. Headpiece of silver set with glass and plastic(?) rubies and emeralds, center plaque with glass segments simulating lapis and jade(?). Central circular plaque with central red circular glass "stone" surrounded by 6 alternating triangular green and blue glass plaques forming a star. Star is encircled by ring of glass (plastic?) simulated rubies and emeralds. Outer openwork border. Extending above central plaque and connected by 4 small metal bar-shaped links is a triangular plaque set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. Extending horizontally from central plaque on either side are three rectangular metal plaques set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. All plaques connected by metal bar-shaped links. Hanging below connected plaques is fringe of short metal chain sections terminating in hollow spheres. The plaques are sewn to a narrow black cloth band designed to fit …

Evening gown of black wool and silk taffeta; top of wool with low scooped, curved neckline cut deep in back with 3/4 sleeves; fitted bodice extends to hip; skirt of silk taffeta; gathered; with silk underskirt. Stole of black wool with silk ruffled ends.

Brown print silk dress with belt and umbrella.

Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".

Ensemble of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. A) Dress of blue heathered wool herringbone knit with bodice of black jersey knit. Short sleeves. 1 1/2" wide mandarin collar. Center back zipper closure with self-covered button and buttonhole on collar at back. Skirt is street length with slight A-line. Unlined skirt. No labels in dress. B) Fitted jacket of of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. Long sleeves with cuffs of black Persian lamb. V-neckline trimmed in black Persian lamb. Left side closure with two circular black metal buttons at shoulder and four matching button on left side seam. Lined in black silk crepe. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline of jacket: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"

Daytime coat of camel brown/tan wool. Street-length or longer, with rounded shawl collar. Double breasted with 6 large circular black silk faille-covered buttons in two vertical rows of 3 each; bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two small circular black plastic buttons inside. Two slit. Double welt pockets at sides. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs showing black silk faille lining. The coat is lined in black silk, with wide bands of black silk faille at cuffs, collar, and sides of opening. Combined retailer's and designer's label at inside back neck: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"

Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined. Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14".

A) Cocktail dress of blue silk satin. Sleeveless with spaghetti straps of same. Set-in waist which scallops at bottom hem and attaches to panels of full skirt. Tea length. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in black tulle. Combined retailer/designer label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same with rectangular, self covered buckle. 1/2 inch wide.

Petticoat of maroon taffeta with two tiers of 1-3/4" black horsehair braid. One inch waistband. Center back opening closed with hook & eyes. Two curved panels at hips are gathered at the hem. Unlined, with 3-1/2" band of black stiffened net at interior hem line. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"

Late day three-piece suit of black velvet. a) Jacket in modified bolero style with squared bottom corners. Long sleeves with 5" wide cuffs of heavy, white, open cut lace. Lined in cream satin. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" b) Blouse of white linen. Sleeveless. Collar of 6-1/2" wide lace matching cuffs of jacket. Tie of black ribbed silk attaches to collar with hook & loops. Center front opening with 5 small, circular white pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes reinforced with a snap at the neckline and a hook & eye at the waistline. Half-inch pin tucked front. c) Skirt of black velvet. Slight A-line with a 4" purple silk satin cummerbund waistband. Waistband is reinforced with boning and black grosgrain petersham. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk crepe.

Cocktail dress with black silk faille bodice and white organdy skirt. Bodice has long sleeves. Dropped waist. Center front self-covered button closure; bound buttonholes. White organdy cuffs and semi-peter pan collar. Skirt is gathered and constructed of a double layer of organdy; full A-line silhouette. Skirt is lined in cotton. Label: Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell

Two-piece gray flannel daytime suit. A) Fitted jacket. Single breasted with closure of nine buttons; bound buttonholes. Two faux tri-flap pockets on the chest. long suit sleeves. Modified Peter Pan collar has points at shoulders. Front hemline has points matching collar. Lined in mauve crepe. Designer Label: Vera Maxwell / Original B) Skirt. Full length; A-lined.

Rust brown blue and black plaisley print wool crepe dress with attached belt/sash.

Blouse of creme silk crepe with hand-screened figures. Long sleeved, with zippered cuffs, the shirt has a convertible collar and center front opening with three carved circular mother of pearl (simulated?) buttons and one small circular mother of pearl button at collar. The shirt is hand-screened with figures reminiscent of Minoan/archaic Greek figures, including men, women, dolphins, and figures in horse-drawn chariots. Most figures embellished with lines of sequins in complimentary colors, women's dresses with beading as well. Unlined. No labels in garment.

Cape of black, gray, and off-white wool tweed with 5" collar. Single button closure at collar (button missing). 8.5" x 13" panels on front either side next to 12" arm slits with 1 self-covered button each. Lined in dark gray silk. Knee-length. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris"

Pouch. Orange cotton pouch, rounded at bottom. Suspended by gold metallic cord. Edged with metallic thread lace. The surface of the pouch is embroidered with various colors of metallic embroidery, mostly chain-stitch. Lined in orange cotton.

Cocktail ensemble of heavy black silk faille, consisting of: A) Dress. Long dress, sleeveless, narrow straps, rounded neckline, higher in front. Slightly raised waist. Left side zipper. Very full skirt gathered into waist. Designer's label at inside skirt side seam: "Traina-Norell / New York" B) Jacket. Waist length jacket with rounded collar, short, highly puffed "pumpkin" sleeves which gather into shoulders. Center front opening with four black covered buttons. Flares from waist. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Traina-Norell / New York"

Daytime dress in modified shirtwaist/sheath style of black jersey wool. Sleeveless with padded shoulders and wide, notched collar. Street length. Center front opening with 6 large, clear, modified emerald cut rhinestone buttons and bound buttonholes. One-inch wide self fabric tie belt attached at sides. Small patch pockets at sides, below waist. Unlined. Combined retailer/designer's label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell"

Cocktail or dinner dress ensemble of pale blue/green satin brocade with design of acanthus and thistle/leaf in dark green and golden yellow, consisting of: A) Blouse. Short sleeves with 2" rolled cuffs and shawl collar. Center front opening has 4 self-covered buttons above waist, and 6 hook-and-loops below waist on peplum for securing into skirt. Fitted seaming and pleats centered on waist. Unlined. Label inside top at left side seam: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped on label: "05456" B) Skirt of matching brocade. The mid-length skirt is double box pleated from narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. C) Petticoat of ivory moiré satin. Mid-length, with narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at waistband. E) Belt of green silk-covered ivory leather with rectangular silk-covered buckle. (not in photographs) D) Purse of green silk.

Evening dress of champagne peau de soie. Princess style. Sweetheart neckline in front, with small horizontal pleats at front left and right princess seaming at upper part of bust; back neckline is low and rounded. 1-1/2 inch wide shoulder straps that split in front to form an inverted Y, with horizontal band of same fabric at dividing point. Natural waist. Skirt is below knee length, at at hips has three almost horizontal bias folds which extend to from hip center back and join to form bow; lower sash ends of the bow attach to skirt to form "bustle drape", giving added fullness. Attached net petticoat gathered to taffeta yoke; back zipper. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"

Cocktail ensemble of mauve damask satin with woven pattern of small flowers consisting of: A) Bodice/top. Sleeveless, with 1" shoulder straps and 3" fold around neckline. Left side zipper opening from bottom to almost neckline. Unlined. B) Skirt, of matching fabric with scattered groups of "smoked"? sequins. Floor length, A-line, with wide, 3" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.

Hat of pink straw. The open crown is of woven pink straw, as is the wide oval brim. At the front of the hat is a cluster of artificial flowers in pink velvet and green fabric. The hat is unlined, with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown - one band pink, the other of cream. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" Accompanied by a single short hatpin with a tan straw woven head.

Hat of navy blue straw. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top. Around the sides of the crown are wide band of grosgrain ribbon, almost as wide as the side of the crown. The ribbon is embellished with maroon red satin "dots", affixed to the ribbon. At the side, towards the back, the ribbon has two short trailing ends extending outwards. The brim is very narrow, of the same straw as the crown. The hat is lined with dark blue mesh, and has an inner hatband of dark blue grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: " Mr. D' " The hat is accompanied by one short hatpin with a faux tear-drop shaped pearl head.

Hat of white straw. The low, domed crown is of finely woven white straw, encircled around the base with a wide band of red velvet ribbon, trimmed with gold braid along top edge. At the back, left side, the ribbon has an extended trailing end. At the front, the gold braid runs down the velvet ribbon in two strands, and crosses the brim to attach to a red velvet heart shape which is embellished with borders of pearls and braid, and a central heart shape made of gold bullion braid. The brim of the hat is of matching straw, curling slightly up at edge. Along the front half of the hat is a fine brown veiling. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Pfeifers / of Arkansas". A second label is sewn to the side of the retailer's label, with the initials "ADJ" within a rectangle, and the initials "[illeg]SC" below.

Evening gown of seafoam green/blue nylon taffeta floor length gown with basque to hip line accented by circular cut peplum. Ting rolled shoulder straps, circular band at top of low cut waist over arm. Very full gored skirt. Trimmed with lining of peach taffeta. Size 16

Beige wool plaid three piece suit. A) Jacket with grey square pattern and long sleeves; lined. narrow, pointed collar. center front opening with 4 buttons to close B) Vest with grey square pattern and six round buttons down the front in twos; C) Matching knee-length skirt

Pants of rose pink jersey knit, straight leg, zip front, waistband, side seam pockets.

Coat of green, tan and yellow plaid wool; 2 front pockets; 3 button enclosure

A) Evening dress of rose/pale pink/pale mauve crepe-back satin charmeuse. Inspired by Chinese Cheongsam-style garments, the dress is full-length, slim fitted, with slight standing collar fastened with hidden hook & loop. Sleeveless, the dress has front opening from throat to slightly below right shoulder, secured with three large rhinestone set circular brass(?) buttons. Very slightly raised waist with triangular "flap", open and hanging down from center front to right hip. From just below hip to center front at hem is secondary opening, with 7 buttons matching bodice. Hem slightly scalloped at front overlap corners, and at right side. Left side underarm zipper. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside bodice: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Maurice Rentner" B) Tie belt of same fabric, 3/4" wide.

Black lace and taffeta cocktail dress. A: Dress B: Slip

Maternity ensemble consisting of: A) Jacket-style top of brown wool plaid with cream and light blue. Shawl collar, with squared front neckline. Center front double-breasted opening having two vertical rows of 5 domed self-covered buttons, and 2 hidden snaps at top. Long sleeves. Flaps at hips simulating pockets. Built-in shoulder pads. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "[logo] Page Boy / Dallas" B) Kangaroo style skirt of brown cotton(?)twill. Mid-calf-length, with slight A-line formed by darts around waistline. Thin waistband with ties at front for large rounded "scoop" opening, which has a single strap that extends up and loops around waist tie. Small slit at center-front hemline. Unlined. No labels in skirt.

Man's Banda (Sash). Handwoven cotton on a backstrap loom, plain weave, red with jaspe (ikat) striping, loose knotting at the ends.

Wide sash of red-brown, ivory, and indigo blue cotton. Backstrap loomed cotton warp faced plain weave with warp ikat design with diamonds in the center and linear, repeating pattern on either side. Hand twisted and knotted fringe. Approx 11" wide.

A) Afternoon or tea/garden party dress of white organdy cotton with three rows of alençon lace separated by two rows of pin tucks. Natural waist gathers at attached cummerbund style belt/sash of pink satin. Full length; scooped, bound neckline. Short puffed sleeves are elasticized at the shoulders. Left side zipper closure. Bodice lined in ivory silk crepe; skirt unlined. Embroidered label at zipper: "Ann" B) Separate petticoat of matching organdy cotton lined in ivory silk crepe. Closure of two hook & eyes on white grosgrain waistband and two snaps on crepe lining. Designer/retailer label at center back seam of lining: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell"

Hat of beige fur felt. The high, domed crown is wrapped by a wide silk satin ribbon woven in a Madras-inspired plaid of olive green, orange, yellow, red, and tan. The ribbon extends for a significant distance off of the back of the hat to become streamers, and is held at the back of the crown by a circular conch of white shell. The asymmetric brim is set off-center, with wider sections at front/right and shallower sections at back/left. All edges turn up, with a higher area at front/right. The hat is unlined, retaining much of the pelt on the underside of the brim and inside the base of the crown.

Hat of natural-colored straw. The domed crown is of patterned woven straw, forming a lace effect. Hatband is a wide band of light brown grosgrain ribbon with a bow and trailing ends. The wide brim, of matching straw, curves upwards. Unlined; headband of light brown grosgrain ribbon. No labels or tags in the hat.

Barrel-line jacket of tan wool. Hip length with long sleeves, two angled slit pockets at hips. Center front opening with three circular self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched shawl collar. Lower front cut away diagonally. Flaps at upper breast on either side simulating pocket flaps, nonfunctional. Lined in black silk. Designer's Label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Written on inside right hem in ink: "DAM (?) 1019"

Dress of brown herringbone weave.

Daytime ensemble of brown silk faille: A) Dress. Below-knee length. Dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide, overlapped V-neckline. Bodice has boned under structure. 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back; closes with hook & loops. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined. B) Cropped jacket with pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband. Closure of three openwork, brass buttons, 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button and bound buttonhole per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City"

Sundress of magenta chambray cotton. Bodice is boned with halter top style straps and two tucks at center front. Two triangular panels at sides of waist with arm slits drape over shoulders to form a cape. Below knee length. Center back zipper closure. Designer Label: "designed by / Carolyn Schnurer / for you" Retailer Label: "Berger's Casual Shop / Buffalo"

Evening skirt of black satin. Full length; A-line. Center back opening shows evidence of having a removed zipper; 1" webbed waistband of self has two large hook & eyes. Unlined.

Dress of black velvet. Knee length; short puffed sleeves. Raised empire waist gathers into bodice at waistband. High bound neckline has a slight V in front and forms ties at back. Center back closure of three self-covered buttons and loops at neckline; left side zipper under arm. Unlined; padded shoulders.

Men's Hawaiian shirt of rayon in faded blues and greens with Japanese pagoda and Mount Fuji motifs. Center front button closure; collared. Patch pocket at left breast. Label: Aloha, hand-screened originals

Short sleeve shirt with all over design reminiscent of Kandinsky in green, yellow, red and pale blue outlined with fragmented dotted line. Label: Benvenuto Hand Prints

Beach ensemble with a dark blue wool jersey knit maillot swimsuit with ties from bust to around neck, an off-white wrap-around terry cloth skirt with striped blue and white section at waist an in patches on side, and a matching off-white terrycloth shawl with fringed ends.

Pair of gloves of black leather lined in silk Original tag inside indicates gloves were made in the US Original price tag reads "Brights's Paducah / NY 4700 $11.00"

Man's necktie of tan silk geometrically woven by D'ore, inner lining is imprinted with "D'ore". The silk is shattered at the neck.

Pair of gloves of nylon; sheer; black; 1/2" braid at wrist. Length: 22 cm; Width: 8.5 cm Designer Label: Fownes Make Size Label: Nylon / Made in USA / 7

Vogue pattern 9444 to make a short or long coat with convertible collar, double-breasted front button closure, and long set-in sleeves, including illustrations of the finished pieces and information about sizing and construction on the back.

Vogue pattern 6352 to make a one-piece dress with front button closure, draped neckline, natural waist, and flared skirt. including illustrations of the finished pieces and information about sizing and construction on the back.

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