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Purse
Purse of gunmetal mesh, suitable for afternoon use. Rectangular frame, plain polished gunmetal / steel frame with ball/snap closure and matching chain of elongated links. Body of purse formed of gunmetal / steel mesh, with linked chain latticework along bottom edge, terminating in small spheres. Inside of frame is engraved "Bessie H. Brown" and "Dallas Texas 4205 Swiss Avenue" Measurements: 26 cm. from top of clasp to bottom of fringe; 19.5 cm at widest part of bag.
Purse
Silver mesh purse with cathedral arch frame etched with scroll filigree. Ball and socket clasp. Ball finials at each corner of tri-corner bottom. Mesh band handle with slide adjustment stamped with a four petal flower. Interior of frame stamped: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis / Bags" and "Sterling"
Felt cowboy-style hat
Hat of light tan felt in cowboy style. Black grosgrain trim around brim and as hatband. Headband of brown leather; unlined.
Picture hat
Picture/mousquetaire style hat of violet silk over purple straw body. The low, domed crown is surrounded by a wide brim, and overlaid by two wide, dyed violet ostrich feathers. The underside of the brim the lighter colored violet woven straw body of the hat. The crown is lined in black taffeta fabric and has an attached cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Sanger Bros / Dallas and Waco / Texas"
Paper dress
Young girl's party dress of yellow heavy crepe paper over white cotton(?). “Paper dress” is knee-length, sleeveless, with rounded neckline and wide straps. A-line under-layer of white cotton is overlaid by 7 wide horizontal tiers of yellow heavy crepe paper “petals”. Center-back opening with single tiny circular white button at neckline. No labels visible in garment.
Riding habit
Riding Habit. A) Jacket of brown wool; green lining; Full sleeves B) Bloomers/pants of brown wool.
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white weave fabric. Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Elite Quality" "3055" "Montcalm / Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc. / U.S.A." "16 1/2"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white fabric over card(?). Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A." "Clarion / Linocord buttonholes" "14"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white fabric over card(?). Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A." "Clarion / Linocord buttonholes / 2875" "14"
Detachable collar
Three button-hole, pointed, linen detachable collar in window pane jacquard design. Size 15 1/4. Stamped on interior: "Trade Mark / Ide Silver Collars" "Caxton / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A" "Linocord Buttonholes / Reg. US Pat. Off. / 4506"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white weave fabric. Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Elite Quality" "3055" "Montcalm / Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc. / U.S.A." "16 1/2"
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black velvet with domed crown and wide brim edged in black satin. Hatband of pleated black satin. Bright green ostrich feathers on left side of crown. Lined in pink fabric. Designer's label: "Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif." Retailer's label: "Yvonne / Hats / California"
Infant's Dress
Infant's dress of white cotton batiste with lace surrounds. Full length with short, puffed sleeves. High waist gathers at yoke. Yoke and sleeves trimmed in lace. Yoke is constructed of cut-out pieces and is embroidered in white vine and floral design. Hem has five rows of pin tucks above a 2-1/2" ruffle trimmed in satin-stitched dots along the bottom. Center back opening with two tiny mother-of-pearl buttons; third, top button is missing. Unlined.
Child's dress
A) Infant's dress of white batiste cotton. Yoke has rounded neckline with tatted lace and floral embroidered inserts. Short puffed sleeves are trimmed in tatted lace. Skirt has insert of floral embroidered batiste between two rows of tatted lace; pin tucking above inserts and at ruffled hemline trimmed with tatted lace. Center back opening with snap closure; snaps missing. Unlined. B) Slip of white batiste cotton. Sleeveless with wide rounded neckline; bordered in tatted lace. Bodice embroidered in floral pattern with embroidered bow at the center. Gathered waist. Skirt with tucks and insert of tatted lace and tatted lace at hem. Center back closure of four mother-of-pearl buttons and button at each shoulder (buttons at shoulders missing).
Hat
Hat of ivory/ecru panne velvet, black fur, ivory lace, and a black plume. The crown is of low, crushed ivory or ecrue panne velvet, with a lower border of black fur. The wide brim had an inner wire framework covered with ivory lace, edged with the same black fur. Extending from lower edge of crown at side to off of the edge of the brim is a large black plume. Crown is lined with ivory/ecru satin, with gathered section at center. There are no labels in the hat. Gift of Margaret Baker. From the trousseau of Mrs. Thomas Elmer Braniff.
Girl's Dress
Small girl's dress of fine white cotton or linen. Wide lace ruffle borders small yoke of lace and net. Short puffed sleeves trimmed with matching lace. Dress falls full from gathering under yoke ruffle with three rows of fine tucks, two rows of lace inserts and matching lace border at hem.
Mitts
Pair of ivory cotton or silk mitts. The elbow-length fingerless gloves are of crocheted ivory material in the style of the 1860s. The long sleeves have bands of lacework patterning. The hands are fingerless, with cording between where fingers would go, and an oval opening for the thumb.
Linen petticoat
Fine white handkerchief linen petticoat, with outer flounce of embroidered sections joined with lace bands and ruffle. 26" waist.
Wedding skirt
Chinese Wedding Skirt for a Member of the Court. Mid-calf length wrap-style skirt comprised of two panels of red brocade silk with chrysanthemum pattern attached to 2.25" waistband of green wool; panels connect with interior button of green wool and skirt is secured with ties of green wool that wrap around the waistband. Panels are unadorned where wrap overlaps and finely pleated where panel is visible. On pleated sections are long strips of dark blue silk piped and backed in light blue silk; strips are decorated with silk and metallic embroidery with floral, dragon, and geometric designs, and at the bottom each strip has a modified fleur-de-lis shape and two silk tassels, one of lavender and the other turquoise. Inset into each side section of skirt are rectangular bands of floral embroidery in silk threads on white silk cloth. The bottom of the skirt has a bands of white and blue silk with embroidery, which are also pleated where visible. Primary background cloth of skirt is red silk. Side panels are lined with turquoise silk fabric. Inside labels from Neiman Marcus and The People’s Republic of China indicate the skirt was probably bought during an Asian Fortnight in 1962 or 1969.
Purse
Purse. Ornate bell-shaped silver (plated?) frame with openwork latticework set with red and blue cabochons and with silver (plated?) chain. Body of purse is of crocheted gray with vertical stripes of horizontal rows of faceted blue beads. Bottom of bag with fringe formed of loops of matching beading. Lined in gray satin with roses and vine trim.
Hat
Small cartwheel-style hat. Cylindrical crown of gold and ochre/brown brocade with irregular folds. Circular stiff brown velour brim, not as wide as a typical cartwheel hat but in the same style. Affixed to the crown near the brim on one side is a cluster of three cloth flowers and a sprig of cloth leaves. Affixed to the other side is a plume of brown ostrich feathers. Inside of crown lined in black silk. Embroidered inside crown is maker's marks, including an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern"
Boy's Suit (Jacket and Pants)
Boy's suit of olive green wool tweed with gold flecks and small blue and white vertical stripes. A) Jacket. Triangular, placket front is bordered with black twill tape and has a vertical, center insert of red wool bordered with black braid. Four gilded brass buttons on each side of placket with right side closure having tailored buttonholes. 1-1/2" belt of self attaches at bottom button. Long, set-in sleeves are trimmed with two, smaller, nonfunctional matching buttons. Turn down collar closes with 2 hook & eyes. Bow tie of black silk faille. Horizontal, double welt pockets at side. Body of jacket is lined with black polished cotton and sleeves are lined in cotton fabric in stripes of light gray with thin green stripes. B) Short pants of matching tweed. Closes with a single brown button on each side of waist above pockets. Single slit pocket on the back at right. Sides of legs trimmed with 3 matching, nonfunctional buttons. Interior cotton satin waistband has 8 vertical buttonholes and is stamped: "Aletor(?) Waist Band / Patented / June 29, 1896 / 3 / Brooklyn, N. Y." Front lined in brown polished cotton.
Skirt
Red silk cheongsam style skirt - ankle length taper off skirt fully lined with silk crepe. Hand embroidered silk design motifs - Vertical gold rickrack creates the illusion of the traditional aproned skirt popular in the Qing Dynasty. This is probably a transitional garment going from the ancient style to the more contemporary garments of the 1920's and 1930's. There is a Neiman Marcus and a People’s Republic of China label inside.
Dress
Dress. Bodice of vertically striped blue and black satin with short sleeves in black. Shallow v-neck trimmed with band of gold net ribbon which continues down center of back to waist. Bodice has black band just below bust line as "hem". Below this hem is pleated sash of blue and black striped materials at raised waistline, and a second band of the striped material running vertically from below "hem" to under top tier of skirt. Mid-calf-length black skirt with two vertical tiers of long box pleats from waistline. Bodice is lined in cream silk(?) with wide ribbon inner waistband, with cream-trimmed pads added at underarms. Skirt is lined in black. Garment fastens down back from neck to mid-thigh with a series of hook-and-eye and hook-and-loop closures. Sash around waist fastens at center front and has hook-and-loop closures running around left side to back. Garment has no labels.
El Sah Mesh Handbag
Handbag. Arched frame of silver (plated?), lightly chased and engraved. Openwork areas on sides of frame allow rings from suspension chain to slide up and down acting as "locks". Mesh bag with enameled design of flowers. Inside bag are makers tag marked: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis Co. / Bags / Reg. U.S. & Can." and brand tag marked "El Sah".
Infant's Ensemble
Infant's ensemble of fine white persian lawn consisting of: A) Infant's dress of white batiste cotton. Full length dress gathers into square yoke with narrow, vertical rows of fine eyelet and hair pin lace. Two rows of pin tucking separated by two rows of eyelet and hair pin lace matching yoke at bottom with 2-1/2" ruffle of scalloped eyelet lace at hem. Round neckline trimmed in lace. Long sleeves with lace at hem; center back opening. B) Slip of white batiste cotton. Neckline and armholes trimmed in lace. Full length. Narrow row of pin tucks and row of eyelet and hair pin lace matching dress with matching ruffle of scalloped, eyelet at hem. Closure of mother-of-pearl buttons at shoulders. No labels in garment.
Child's Coat
Child's coat of off-white cotton faille with box pleats front and back; one each at shoulder and one down the middle of both back and front. Front opening to waist of four small white mother-of-pearl buttons and two snaps at neckline, covered by pleat. Sailor collar embroidered with simple flower and vine pattern and embroidered scalloped edges. Long sleeves have the same treatment for 3" cuffs. Dropped waist with belt loops (belt missing).
Dinner Gown
Evening/dinner gown of ivory silk crepe decorated with lace, embroidery, and artificial flowers.
Dinner Dress
Dress of purple silk brocade and white lace bodice.
Dinner Dress
Late afternoon/dinner dress of mauve purple silk velvet with lace and beading.
Patterned waistcoat
Fancy man's tailored waistcoat of with front of narrow black silk soutache cording stitched on white base to give raised ribbed effect. Single breasted with closure for three stud buttons; studs missing. Four welt pockets. Back of black/white checked silk. Lining of men's shirting in gray on white stripe. Retailer's label on adjustable belt strap: BUDD / Madison Square West / New York
Union suit
Ivory colored. horizontally ribbed knit. cotton, wool and rayon. Summer weight union suit. Tank-style neckline with bound edges and shoulder straps. Adjustable front neckline with cotton drawstring that ties above the left breast. Thigh-length legs with overcast serge hems. Lapped. Open crotch access. One piece construction with overcast serge seams. Label stitched inside center back. below neckline.
Summer-weight undershirt
Ivory colored. horizontally ribbed knit. cotton. wool and rayon. summer weight undershirt. Adjustable. high rounded neckline with embroidered drawstring casing. Cotton ribbon drawstring that ties centerfront. Lapped centerfront placket opening to bustlevel with three tailored buttonholes and round. ivory. buttons as the closures. Long set-in sleeves with overcast serged cuffs. Hip-length shell with serged hem. All seams are overcast. Label stitched inside centerback. below neckline casing.
Wedding slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of ivory silk satin. Shoes have pointed toes and slight "rolled edge" stitched accent along top of shoe. 2" high modified Louis or cuban heel, flaring to base. Retailer's mark stamped on insole: "Thayer-McNeil Company / Boston" Handwritten inside shoe: "7054 / 4 1/2 aa / 20942" Length: 25 cm Width: 6.5 cm Height: 12 cm. Heel: 5 cm, 2 inches.
Shoe
Single shoe (right) of tan damask weave cloth and black leather. Shoe designed with pointed toe, the toebox and heel of black leather, the rest of the upper in textured tan cloth. Across instep is wide strap with flaring ends to which is applied an ornate cut/stamped steel simulated buckle. Strap secures with buttons. Modified stacked Louis heel. Stamped inside: The H&S. Pogue Co. / Cincinnati Measurements: length 24cm. Width 8cm. Height 11.5cm. Heel 4cm, 1.5in.
Baby booties
Baby booties of off-white linen with 2 button tab closure; buttons of white pearl; leather soles; size 2 (on tag)
Leather boots
Boots of black patent leather with white leather upper; white button closure; 3/8" heel. Size 4 1/2
Leather boots
Boots of off-white leather with button up closure and 1" stacked wooden heel; canvas inner. Size for 6 year old boy (20 1/2cm long)
Men's boots
Men’s button-up boots of black leather with uppers resembling spats. Lightly brogued “bulldog toes”. Low stacked heel. Stamp inside neck of boot: "535 9246 D" Manufacturer's stamp on bottom of sole: "Peters / Black Diamond / Brand"
Formal slippers
Flats of white leather with sequins around opening and on elastic strap; white canvas inner; leather soles; leather sole 16 1/2cm (child's size)
Walking Shoes
Walking shoes of tan and black leather. The rounded toe and vamp are of black polished leather, the heel and sides of tan kid leather. A single strap across the instep fastens with two circular buttons out outer side of shoe. Decorative black stitching around edges and across strap on tan leather. Insole of light brown leather, and the insides of the sides are lined in tan leather. heavy low stacked heel. Sole of black leather with heavy applied rubber heel. Maker's label stamped in silver on insole: "Foot Schulze & Co / St., Paul" Stamped notation on lining: "455 29100" Molded into bottom of heel: "WAUK LITE" and "8"
Wedding shoes
Pair of wedding slippers of off-white/cream kid leather. Shoes have rounded toes, and three straps crossing vamp, each secured with small domed white glass buttons. Straps, vamp, and upper edges of shoes all edged with off-white silk stitching. Across vamp is small silk faille bow ornamented with white glass beads. Low 1 1/2" heel is a modified cuban or Louis heel, covered with white leather. "Volk's, Dallas, Texas" is stamped on inside. Partly illegible numbers stamped on inside. L: 24 cm W: 7 cm H: 10.5 cm Heel: 4 cm / 1.5 in.
Leather shoes
Pair of pumps of black leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toe and plain leather upper. The 2" heel is of modified Louis style, covered with black leather and flaring at base. Retailer label: "Sanger Brothers / Dallas - Waco" Measurements: Length 24cm. Width 7cm. Height 13cm. Heel 5cm, 2in.
Leather shoes
Pair of ladies' heeled pumps of black leather. Vamp has shaped leather segment simulating a buckle, embellished with cut steel bead trim. Narrow 2 1/4" high Boulevard-style heel covered in black leather. Marked in each shoe: "6 1/2 AA B 85814 / 2418" Label in right shoe: "Special / Measurements / By W.B. Coon Co." Measurements: Size 6 1/2 AA; 25 cm. long; 8 cm. at widest point; 12 cm. at highest point; Heel: 5.5 cm. (2 1/4") high at axis with cap.
Heeled shoes
Pair of black peau de soie heeled shoes. Slightly pointed rounded toe, with an oval openwork area at the throat of the vamp which simulates a buckle. These "buckles" are set with simulated black jet and cut steel beads. The 2 3/8" modified French heel is covered in black peau de soie. Marked on leather sole: "VOLK"; Stamped inside right shoe: "VOLK / DALLAS"; Notation inside each shoe: "172 / 5931 / 2355" Measurements: 25 cm. long; 7.8 cm. at widest; 12.5 cm. at highest; Heel: 6 cm. (2 3/8") high on axis with cap.
Dance Pumps
Pair of lady's dance pumps in white satin. The shoes are of white satin with large bow at vamp and a second bow on the strap which buttons across instep of each shoe. Low/flat heels. White leather insole, and sides lined with white fabric. Retailer's stamp on sole: "S.G. Maddox / Weatherford, Texas." Stamped inside: "4 D 520"
Child's shoes
Girls one button white soft kid "Mary Jane" shoes; white satin ribbon bow on buckle; leather soles. Size 7 1/2
Hat
Hat of black velvet with soft brim and two ostrich pom-poms attached to left side. Hard velour stand decorated with jet surrounds a shirred crown. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Irwin's / Decor / Cincinnati / St. Louis"
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of blue cotton with white lace trim. The brim is slightly square-shaped and heavily starched. The top of the crown is stitched to the brim in a flat seam, with fullness created in the lower crown through a set of 3 snaps on each side which fasten the crown to the brim, giving the lower crown a crenelated shape. The bonnet has no tail, and has self-fabric chin ties of blue ribbon. The left tie is formed from two pieces of fabric pieced together, while the right tie is of a single length of fabric. The ties are narrow hemmed, except for one side of a lower section of left tie, which is cut along the selvage and left unfinished. There are no labels or marks in the piece. The fact that this bonnet does not have a tail probably indicates that this was a visiting bonnet rather than a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Hat
Woman's black velour top hat. Designed after a man's top hat, this version has a cylindrical, slightly domed crown and narrow velour-covered brim which gently curves up. The brim has a second section below, also covered in black velour, that curves downwards, giving the brim an appearance of thickness. Around the lower part of the crown is a folded black silk taffeta grosgrain ribbon, with a large simulated silver metal buckle placed near the front on the right side of the hat. The buckle is of stamped metal simulating cut steel. The hat is lined in black silk. Embroidered label sewn to lining inside crown includes an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern"
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