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 Country: United States
 Decade: 1910-1919
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat

Hat

Date: 1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Beret-style hat of light purple silk velvet with rigid wire frame aperture and gathered "top knot" secured by a band of purple velvet ribbon. Unlined. No labels or tags.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1915
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of black peau de soie heeled shoes. Slightly pointed rounded toe, with an oval openwork area at the throat of the vamp which simulates a buckle. These "buckles" are set with simulated black jet and cut steel beads. The 2 3/8" modified French heel is covered in black peau de soie. Marked on leather sole: "VOLK"; Stamped inside right shoe: "VOLK / DALLAS"; Notation inside each shoe: "172 / 5931 / 2355"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1915
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of woman's white kid pumps. Designed as modified Oxford style shoes with slightly pointed toes, the white kid uppers are decorated with rows of circular holes along toe-cap, sides of vamp, sides of shoe, and heel. The shoes lace up at center front along instep, 3 holes high. The medium-high heels are curved around sides and back, covered with same leather. Front of heel cut straight across, covered with light tan leather. Stamped inside shoe: "Brooklyn Hand Turns / 'Aristocrat' / 51 - Last". Embroidered label inside shoe: "Paul's / Aristocrats / Hand Made / Turn-Sole".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1914~
Creator: Craddock Terry Co.
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather and velvet. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather at lower portion, and black velvet from edge of vamp to above ankle. Upper section closes with circular, slightly domed black buttons on outer edge, 11 buttons high. 1 3/4" high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and with curved front section. Logo stamped on sole, partly illegible. Embroidered label inside: "[Monogram - CT Co.?] Autograph" Stamped inside: "Our Own Make / 354 812 / Craddock Terry Co."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1910?
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of modified Oxford-style shoes of brown leather. Lace-up at front, with six holes per side, with brown laces. Stitched detail on vamp and sides. Low 1" stacked heel, modified Louis or cuban style. Maker's label stamped inside: "Pace & Levy / Terrell, Tex" Illegible marks written inside shoes.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1910?
Creator: unknown
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: [1915..1919]
Creator: Friedman-Shelby
Description: Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 19 holes high. The modified Louis or cuban 2" high stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front. Stamped on lining: "370 4331 0a 66 / Friedman-Shelby / St. Louis"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Slippers

Wedding Slippers

Date: 1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Wedding slippers of ivory silk. Shoes have somewhat pointed toes, and ivory silk rosette at top of vamp. 2" high heels, tapering slightly to base, rounded at sides and back, curved at front. Retailer's stamp inside: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas Texas" Partly illegible handwritten numbers inside shoe.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoe

Shoe

Date: 1916?
Creator: unknown
Description: Single shoe of tan damask weave cloth and black leather. Shoe designed with pointed toe, the toebox and heel of black leather, the rest of the upper in textured tan cloth. Across instep is wide strap with flaring ends to which is applied an ornate cut/stamped steel simulated buckle. Strap secures with buttons. Modified stacked Louis heel. Stamped inside: "The H&S. Pogue Co. / Cincinnati"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1919
Creator: Wichert
Description: Pair of lady's boots of black leather. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes, slightly rounded at tips. The boots lace up along the front with 18 holes. Lined at with black fabric. Modified Louis or boulevard heels, rounded at sides and back, flaring to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Embroidered logo inside: "[Part lion/part fish symbol] / Wichert / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1919
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of pumps of black leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toe and plain leather upper. The 2" heel is of modified Louis style, covered with black leather and flaring at base. Retailer label: "Sanger Brothers / Dallas - Waco"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Slippers

Wedding Slippers

Date: 1919?
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of wedding slippers of ivory silk satin. Shoes have pointed toes and slight "rolled edge" stitched accent along top of shoe. 2" high modified Louis or cuban heel, flaring to base. Retailer's mark stamped on insole: "Thayer-McNeil Company / Boston" Handwritten inside shoe: "7054 / 4 1/2 aa / 20942"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1910/1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag of multi-colored glass beads of boldly colored, somewhat stylized floral design. Bronze frame cast with floral forms and openwork, and set with navy blue and green rhinestones. Roses on frame have remains of applied coloration. Suspension chain in rope form with spaced clusters of green and blue beads. Bag has fringe at bottom composed of loops of green and black faceted beads. Off-white satin lining, mostly deteriorated.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1910/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Small cartwheel-style hat. Cylindrical crown of gold and ochre/brown brocade with irregular folds. Circular stiff brown velour brim, not as wide as a typical cartwheel hat but in the same style. Affixed to the crown near the brim on one side is a cluster of three cloth flowers and a sprig of cloth leaves. Affixed to the other side is a plume of brown ostrich feathers. Inside of crown lined in black silk. Embroidered inside crown is maker's marks, including an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of woman's shoes of black leather and black suede. The black leather toe sections of the shoes are designed with gently rounded points. The back part of the shoes, and the single strap across the instep, are of black suede. Each of the straps secure with two circular iridescent black buttons. Shoes are lined in tan cloth inside toes, black leather insoles, and black fabric inside heels. Soles of black and tan leather. Medium heel of modified French style, with rounded sides and back, and slightly curving inner side. Stamped in gilt on insole: "Bench / Volk's / Made". Hand-written notation inside shoes: "6C / 18638 / 29"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of blue cotton with white lace trim. The brim is slightly square-shaped and heavily starched. The top of the crown is stitched to the brim in a flat seam, with fullness created in the lower crown through a set of 3 snaps on each side which fasten the crown to the brim, giving the lower crown a crenelated shape. The bonnet has no tail, and has self-fabric chin ties of blue ribbon. The left tie is formed from two pieces of fabric pieced together, while the right tie is of a single length of fabric. The ties are narrow hemmed, except for one side of a lower section of left tie, which is cut along the selvage and left unfinished. There are no labels or marks in the piece. The fact that this bonnet does not have a tail probably indicates that this was a visiting bonnet rather than a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1910/1919
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of black velvet with soft brim and two ostrich pom-poms attached to left side. Hard velour stand decorated with jet surrounds a shirred crown. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Irwin's / Decor / Cincinnati / St. Louis"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1915/1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Woman's black velour top hat. Designed after a man's top hat, this version has a cylindrical, slightly domed crown and narrow velour-covered brim which gently curves up. The brim has a second section below, also covered in black velour, that curves downwards, giving the brim an appearance of thickness. Around the lower part of the crown is a folded black silk taffeta grosgrain ribbon, with a large simulated silver metal buckle placed near the front on the right side of the hat. The buckle is of stamped metal simulating cut steel. The hat is lined in black silk. Embroidered label sewn to lining inside crown includes an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1914~
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress. Bodice of vertically striped blue and black satin with short sleeves in black. Shallow v-neck trimmed with band of gold net ribbon which continues down center of back to waist. Bodice has black band just below bust line as "hem". Below this hem is pleated sash of blue and black striped materials at raised waistline, and a second band of the striped material running vertically from below "hem" to under top tier of skirt. Mid-calf-length black skirt with two vertical tiers of long box pleats from waistline. Bodice is lined in cream silk(?) with wide ribbon inner waistband, with cream-trimmed pads added at underarms. Skirt is lined in black. Garment fastens down back from neck to mid-thigh with a series of hook-and-eye and hook-and-loop closures. Sash around waist fastens at center front and has hook-and-loop closures running around left side to back. Garment has no labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1917/1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of dark brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. Embellished at toe with cut steel beads forming interlacing bands and lines. Medium height heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to center and then flaring out again at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in black leather and off-white fabric. Retailer's(?) stamp inside, partly illegible: "Famous / Paris, Tex." Hand-written notation on lining: "38-1 80364" Sold by Famous Shoe Store, Paris Texas (est. 1891). Worn by Kennie Holt Rucker in 1917-1918. Donated by Mary Helen Rucker to the Historical Collection (North Texas State University,Denton, Tex.). Transferred to the Texas Fashion Collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1910/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Picture hat of violet silk over straw body. The low, domed crown is surrounded by a wide brim, and overlaid by two wide, dyed violet ostrich feathers. The underside of the brim the lighter colored violet woven straw body of the hat. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has an attached cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Sanger Bros / Dallas and Waco / Texas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1910/1915
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of navy blue velvet. Cylindrical crown has slightly concave sides and somewhat domed crown that is gathered into sides in large pleats. Wide brim of matching velvet is of approximately oval shape, set somewhat off-center and with large "split" at side allowing for some overlap, and with rounded ends, one of which hangs below other when hat is worn. At split is navy blue dyed ostrich feather plume. Underside of brim is of same velvet, inside of crown lined with navy blue satin with drawstring opening at top of crown, which has inner lining of cream fabric. No designer's, maker's or retailer's labels in item.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Walking Shoes

Walking Shoes

Date: 1918
Creator: Foot-Schulze & Co. (St. Paul, Minnesota, USA)
Description: Walking shoes of tan and black leather. The rounded toe and vamp are of black polished leather, the heel and sides of tan kid leather. A single strap across the instep fastens with two circular buttons out outer side of shoe. Decorative black stitching around edges and across strap on tan leather. Insole of light brown leather, and the insides of the sides are lined in tan leather. heavy low stacked heel. Sole of black leather with heavy applied rubber heel. Maker's label stamped in silver on insole: "Foot Schulze & Co / St., Paul" Stamped notation on lining: "455 29100" Molded into bottom of heel: "WAUK LITE" and "8"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1915/1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Toque of black velvet. The circular crown is of black velvet, gathered at top and crafted to create wrinkles. Brim at sides and front folds up to form "visor" at front of crown, on which are artificial berries, flowers, and leaves. Hat is lined with black satin. Maker's mark stamped inside crown, partly faded/worn: Perry Hat Shoppe / Perry, NY."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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