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Skirt Ensemble
Ensemble consisting of jacket, blouse, skirt, belt and hat.
Dinner Gown
Dinner gown of red velvet. The full-length dress is of deep red velvet, embroidered in black to form an all-over pattern of "fish scales". Neckline is rounded, higher in front than back, and has full-length sleeves with a modified leg-of-mutton effect at the shoulders and zipper closures at wrists. The bodice is seamed, and has a natural waistline. The neckline, waistline, and upper part of sleeves/shoulders are edged in black cording/braid. Skirt is slightly gathered into the waistline braid. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye closure at neck. Small panel lining front of bodice at bust, the rest of the gown unlined. No label sewn in garment, but retains original paper tag: obverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original"; reverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original / Fibre Content / 100% Wool / Style 121 / Size [blank] / Mat. [blank] / Account No. [blank]". This gown is one of the "Dance Hall Girl" dresses from Ms. Maxwell's Southwest American Collection.
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular silver art deco openwork frame set with tiny marcasites and circular cabochon black stones (onyx?). Bag is of black silk velvet. Handle of black silk velvet with two silver rings set with marcasites. Lined with dusty pink ribbed silk, and containing a small rectangular mirror. Marked on frame: "MD" in a square; Diamond shaped mark with an M over a K; and an illegible shield-shaped punch.
Dress
Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons)
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined.
Dress
Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool.
Ensemble
Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble.
Mourning Fan
Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures.
Ensemble - Coat Dress and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of a charcoal gray wool tweed coat dress and skirt. A) Street dress of charcoal gray wool tweed. Center front opening with eight large, circular, black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Three quarter raglan sleeves. Turndown collar. Yoked shoulders slightly gathered in back. Below knee length. Lined in black silk faille. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt with waist panel of black silk and lower panel of charcoal gray wool tweed. Skirt is slightly gathered where waist panel meets lower panel. Overall effect is of a straight skirt. Center back opening with two hook & eyes on waistband as closure. Lower portion of skirt is lined in same black silk as waist panel. Retailer's label on inside center back seam of lining: "Neiman-Marcus"
Dress
Dress of light weight black wool crepe in shift style. High round neck; sleeveless. Street length. Center front opening to hem with 8 large round buttons of heavy silk threads. Slight fullness achieved by gathering from shoulder yoke. Unlined except at yoke. Combined designer/retailer label at center back seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of black wool jersey knit. The late-day dress is of mid-length, with bateau (boat) neckline and short sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye at neckline. The fitted torso has a natural waistline with a fitted yoke from natural waist to full hip. Pleated/gathered skirt of black tissue faille begins below yoke and flares to hem. Around the waist is an attached wide faille sash which ties in front forming a bow with trailing ribbons. The bodice of the dress is lined in black and the skirt has a heavy fabric underskirt and two attached layers of net crinoline. Joint designer's and retailer's label sewn inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Evening Gown
Evening gown of tobacco brown floral embroidered tulle embellished with sequins. Tulip or "mermaid" style full-length gown has spaghetti straps trimmed in single row of sequins and structured bodice. Empire waist. Center back zipper. Silk lining/attached slip. Cream grosgrain ribbon petersham at empire waist with two hook & eye closures. Stiffened at hem with matching tulle netting and horizontal bands of horsehair. Single label in gown with retailer and designer: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell", with "Dallas" in lower case.
Ensemble - Dress, Bodice, and Stole
Ensemble of wine red linen, consisting of: A) Dress of wine red linen. Jumper-style, the seamed bodice has a wide, rounded neckline and is sleeveless. The skirt gathers slightly into the waist, which dips slightly to hips. Two slit pockets at side skirt seams just below waist. Center back opening, with 5 large circular wine red plastic buttons, a hook-and-eye at waist, two hidden snaps at neckline, and two hidden snaps below waist. Fully lined in red silk. Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" B) Under-bodice of wine red silk and wine red linen. Cropped bodice of silk with low, rounded neckline, and center front opening with 5 hook-and-eyes. Short sleeves of wine red linen to match dress. No labels in under-bodice. C) Stole of matching fabric. 50" x 12" rectangle, formed as a tube. No labels in shawl. Size 10 or 12. Note: Outer dress can be worn with or without under-bodice, giving the dress the appearance of being either sleeved or sleeveless.
Suit
Late day three-piece suit of black velvet. a) Jacket in modified bolero style with squared bottom corners. Long sleeves with 5" wide cuffs of heavy, white, open cut lace. Lined in cream satin. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" b) Blouse of white linen. Sleeveless. Collar of 6-1/2" wide lace matching cuffs of jacket. Tie of black ribbed silk attaches to collar with hook & loops. Center front opening with 5 small, circular white pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes reinforced with a snap at the neckline and a hook & eye at the waistline. Half-inch pin tucked front. c) Skirt of black velvet. Slight A-line with a 4" purple silk satin cummerbund waistband. Waistband is reinforced with boning and black grosgrain petersham. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk crepe.
Dress
Dress of black crochet knit; sheath style. Bracelet length or 3/4 length sleeves, crew neck. Princess seaming. Below knee length. Center back zipper. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label on right inside seam: "Norman Norell for Neiman-Marcus.
Capelet
Capelet of black silk satin. The short cape is trimmed along hem with 3-1/2" band of pleated organza and band of jet beads. Standing neckline trimmed in pleated organza. Center front opening with closure of five hook & eyes, with bow of black silk satin moire with trailing ends attached to right side of opening at throat. Shoulder yoke bordered in tightly gathered narrow band of black organza. Bright purple moire silk lining.
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
A) Coat of light brown leather printed with dark brown "squiggles". Full-length, double-breasted, with two vertical rows of three each circular brown plastic buttons and hidden snaps at top. Long raglan sleeves. Two patch pockets on front with decorative flaps. Lined in light brown silk(?). Designer's label at inside back collar: "Adele Simpson", with written annotation "1008". B) Dress with matching scarf, of light tan jersey with printed dark brown "squiggles" matching the rest of ensemble. Mid-length, sheath style. Roll collar with slit through which scarf threads. Long sleeves with cuffs having two hidden snaps each. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at top. Lined in peach silk crepe(?). With wide belt of leather matching the coat, the square buckle covered in same leather. Designer's label at inside back on left: "Adele Simpson". Stamped on reverse of belt: "Z 1095"
Ensemble - Day Dress and Jacket
Ensemble of multi-color abstract/impressionistic foliage in green, orange, blue, lavender, and gold, consisting of: a) Day dress in sheath style, sleeveless, with a wide, rounded neckline. Center back zipper, and fully lined in royal blue acetate. Maker's tag towards bottom of zipper: "Order No. 2666 / Style 984 / Size 6 / Remarks" b) Jacket. Reaching slightly below waist-length, the jacket has a wide rounded neckline and elbow length sleeves. The center front opening secures with 3 black crocheted buttons and bound buttonholes, supplemented with a large covered snap at neckline. Lined in navy acetate. Designer's label under right armhole: "Tiffeau & Busch Ltd. / New York" The ensemble’s fabric is a blend of 95% cotton and 5% rayon in a linen weave.
Sundress
Summer dress / Sundress of linen weave cotton in abstract floral design of black, yellow, red, white and green on purple background. Halter-style bodice and dirndl style skirt; midi length with slit up center front to thighs. Center back zipper with 2 hook & eyes. Side slit pockets. Lined in yellow crepe. Designer's label at center back: "Donald Brooks" with handwritten style number(?) "825" With kerchief of matching fabric. Triangular shape. Reverse side print is purple flowers on yellow background.
Child's Dress
Child's dress of tan flannel with front panel of brown velvet. Long sleeves with 3" cuff of brown velvet. Turndown collar of brown velvet with pointed ends and neckline trimmed in ivory lace; collar partially detaches on right and secures with a hook & eye. Patch pockets at sides of brown velvet. Front panel has 10 tortoise shell buttons to left of panel and right side opening of 11 matching buttons with barred buttonholes. Gored in back with six small pleats at bottom of back. Hem of garment has pleated 4-1/2" border of self trimmed with 1-1/2" band of brown velvet. Lined in tan cotton.
Child's Dress
Child's "apron" dress of woven red and blue striped flannel with collar and one box pleat in front. Center front opening with snap at neckline. No belt - possibly missing.
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of pale champagne silk chiffon crepe.
Culottes Dress
Culotte dress of red/white acrylic hounds tooth jersey. Low, round neckline; sleeveless. Knee-length. Two large patch pockets; right pocket has interior zippered pocket with an additional pocket in lining. Skirt gathers into natural waist. Zipper at center back with white tassel pull. Unlined. With tie belt of matching fabric, 1" wide.
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of large plaid orange, green, purple, and red raw and china silk. The dress is sleeveless, ankle-length, with red/orange raw silk halter-top bodice, "shawl" of same which is attached at mid-back and drapes over shoulders and across front. Lined in pale green. Skirt of dress is of silk, with large, plaid squares of reds, oranges, greens, and purples. Attached cummerbund style belt which buttons in back with 5 self-covered buttons and loops. Center back zipper Lined in light gold organza. Combined designer's/retailer's label at left side seam of lining near hem: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original" Accompanying petticoat formed of three full-length layers of red, purple, and green silk. Each layer with hem band of grosgrain ribbon in a different color, and each with deep net ruffle at hem, also edged with grosgrain ribbon. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes on 1" waistband. Combined designer's/retailer's label at center back waistband: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original"
Skirt ensemble
Sky blue two-piece suit of raw silk. (a) Short sky blue silk jacket. Wide V-neckline with wide notched collar and lapels. 3/4 length sleeves cut in one with jacket body supplemented by two triangular shaped gussets under the arm. Lapped center front opening with one large, round, plastic, pebbly textured, light blue button and inseam (yoke seam) buttonhole supplemented by single snap and hook&eye. Fronts have bias cut yoke which cuts across bust line. Lower front pieces are also bias. Self fabric belt at waist goes through holes in front and side panel seams and ties just around the fronts, leaving back straight. Vents at hem below belt holes. Fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label stitched inside back neck below collar: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Couture label under designer's label: "41.481 (?-number illegible) Tag attached to bottom of designer's label: "Made in France" (b) Matching straight, knee length skirt gathered into a 1-1/2" folded waistband. Inseam pockets at sides lined in blue silk. Left side zipper closure supplemented by four hook&eye closures on waistband. Folded hem. Unlined. Tag on waistband: "Made in France"
Dress
Dress of black wool crepe. Bows at sides. Hook & eye closure curved across back with 3/4 sleeves. Bateau neckline. Unlined.
Dress
Cocktail dress of black silk faille peau de soie. Short sleeves. Vertical rouched gather down center back of skirt with bow of self at top and bottom of gather.
Dress
A) Dress of beige ribbed cotton blend (orig card states wool). Boat neckline. Short sleeves. Simulated front opening with two circular beige buttons. Patch pocket at lower right with simulated flap. Side zipper. Unlined. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". B) Belt. Wide gray soft leather belt. Single button closure. Fringed ends. Label on back: "Made in France".
Cloche
Cloche-style hat of light green open-weave horsehair. The domed crown has extending "brim" which is very short in front, descending downwards, and longer sections at side and back, also descending downwards. Hat has a hatband of pinks and beige pleated satin ribbon which is inside crown, but visible through open weave. Ribbons emerge at back of hat, forming a bow with trailing ends. Hat is unlined, with an inner green grosgrain hatband.
Cocktail Hat
Cocktail or evening hat covered with blue-green-blackish iridescent coque feathers. Hat is based on a pillbox style crown, conical, with flattened top. The entire surface is covered with overlapping feathers. Rising from the center of the crown is a spray of brown horsehair and high standing feathers. Brown felt interior crown with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Titche's / Dallas"
Crocheted Cap
Crocheted cap of brown cotton yarn styled as a pillbox. The hemispherical crown is flat at top and slopes to base. The hat has no brim and is unlined. Stuck through the sides of the crown are two brass hatpins formed as over-sized hairpins.
Eugenie Hat
Eugenie style hat of wine colored felt and velour with shallow crown. Ostrich plumes at crown. Label inside hat: "Lorie" Label inside hat: "Reproduction 'illegible' / Madame Lucy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Size label: "registered model / 22 1/2" Label inside hat: "Millinery Creators Guild"
Cloche
Cloche hat of royal blue velvet and silver lace. The cylindrical crown is of royal blue velvet, slightly domed and slightly "crushed". The top panel of the crown is of silver lace over a dark fabric. Around the sides of the crown, nearer the top than the base, is a horizontal band of the same silver lace. The shallow brim is constructed of the royal blue velvet and overlaid with the silver lace, which extends beyond the edge of the velvet. The crown is lined in a cream/iridescent satin; most of the underside of the brim is lined with blue velvet. Maker's label embroidered to center inner lining panel of crown: [pseudo coat of arms] "The Denver Dry Goods Co. / Paris New York / Denver", with small embroidered "FRONT" indicating the front of the hat. Retailer's label sewn to inner side of crown: "Parisian / Abilene, Tex."
Bonnet
Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago".
Hat
Hat of natural straw. Circular straw crown, slightly domed, with black grosgrain ribbon around base and surrounded by shaped straw brim. Brim is rounded in front for about 2/3 of circumference, and bound up with red stitching at back to form three corners at back. All edges of brim turned-up and edged in black velvet ribbon. From above, brim shape resembles a baseball field. Inside of crown with black grosgrain inner hatband, to which is attached two black elastic cords to secure combs to help hold hat on wearer's head. At front of hat is stitched a small "F" on the inner hatband to show front of hat. Designer's label inside crown at inner band: "Wm Silverman / New York", with smaller logo-form tag sewn in under larger label: "Wm Silverman" with scissors, needle and thread.
Jacket
Jacket of black wool and monkey fur. Suit jacket of black wool, long torso, slightly fitted, single-breasted with center front opening of 4 circular self-covered buttons and single hook-and-eye. Long sleeves. Small shoulder pads. From waist to hem coat is trimmed with wide band of long black monkey fur. Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" National Recovery Board, Coat and Suit Industry label at inside waist, "001706"
Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Ensemble of green and blue plaid cotton with collar and buttons of navy blue velvet. Ensemble consists of: A) Bodice. Waist is fitted with fastening of nine velvet covered buttons and tailored buttonholes, snap at neckline and two hook&eyes at hem. High stand-up collar of velvet. Long sleeves gathered with feather stitching; 6" fitted cuffs. Lined in brown polished cotton. B) Skirt. Full length; gathered on 1" waistband of black cotton with closure of two hook & eyes. Back panel for bustle has waistband of brown polished cotton and ties. One slit pocket at right side seam. 24" waist. Unlined.
Girl's Dress
Girl's dress of blue calico cotton with white print. Stand up collar. Inset waist with long, gathered skirt. Long sleeves gathered at wrist with drawstrings. Center front opening with 8 button closure. Bodice lined with what may be sugar sack fabric; skirt unlined. Skirt is 33" long with 22" waist.
Daytime Dress
Daytime dress of printed cotton lawn. Street-length of white cotton lawn is printed with stripes of grays and coral is sleeveless, with wide straps and V-neckline in front and back. The bodice is cut so that stripes are diagonal, meeting at center front and back and emphasizing the V-neckline. The narrow waist is slightly dropped, and is defined by a wide set-in decorative belt of the same fabric, with stripes running horizontally, with fabric-wrapped rectangular buckle and ends. The full skirt has stripes running vertically, and is gathered at the waist/bottom of the belt. There is one underskirt of cream faille, and a second of stiff cream netting. The center-back zipper closure extends from single hook-and-eye at neckline to base of belt. Bodice is partly lined with cream faille and has internal boning. There is a white grosgrain ribbon inner waistband with hook-and-eye closures. Designer's label is sewn inside dress, to bodice lining at left side: "Adele Simpson". This dress was a gift of the designer Adele Simpson and her husband Wesley Simpson to the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
Dress
Dress of midnight blue velvet with cream silk(?) bodice overlaid with pleated sheer black fabric. Rounded neckline edged with black lace, with wired standing collar at back of neck. Long pointed sleeves of matching velvet with wide collars of black net/corded lace overlaying cream silk sleeves trimmed with cream lace. Long, full skirt gathers onto waist under a 3" wide, attached velvet belt trimmed with net covered in black sequins and jet beads with round buckle. Hem with wide black net/corded lace band over sheer black silk(?), with narrow triple-layer black silk gauze ruffle at bottom. With accompanying bolero style vest of black net with applique cording/corded lace. Fastens across front with narrow ribbon of midnight blue velvet with central "pendant" butterfly of black sequins and jet bead as head of butterfly.
Ensemble - Sun Dress and Bolero/Jacket
Daytime ensemble of khaki green cotton twill consisting of: A) Sun dress. Street-length, sleeveless, with deep rounded neckline. Skirt gathered into natural waist with attached narrow tie belt and bow of matching fabric. Center back zipper with hook & eye at back neckline and inner petersham of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at left side seam: "Adele Simpson" B) Cropped, bolero or shrug jacket of matching fabric. Embellished all-over with silver stitching "loops", the center of each loop having a circular paillette of reflective silver material. Single snap closure and single hook &loop at base of center front opening which crosses to fasten. Short sleeves. Deep V neckline in front. Lined in cream net. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Adele Simpson"
Dress
Dress of white silk with multicolored bird and foliage print. Squared neckline with double collar. Short set-in sleeves with two reverse tucks at cuff. Mid-calf length. Two layers of reversed tucks below natural waist line. Back interest of three tiers of sculptural pleating simulating a flat bustle; folds are attached on right and close on left with three snaps. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined. With matching belt of same fabric, 1-1/2" wide. Rectangular, self-covered buckle.
Child's Dress
Child's dress of black wool with red paisley trim. Full length dress, with turned down collar of paisley print. Long sleeves with 4" cuffs trimmed in matching paisley print. Center front opening with 15 nonfunctional paisley covered buttons with hook & eyes underneath. Side pockets trimmed in paisley print. Center back panel is gathered at waist to give slight bustle effect and is belted in paisley print with oval buckle in black ribbed fabric. Lined in brown polished cotton.
Minidress
Minidress of grey ribbed polyester knit; bias cut. Sleeveless with wide armholes. A-line; knee length. Scoop neck front and back with cutout at center back of yoke. Slim silhouette; four panels with slit pockets at sides of center front panel. Zipper closure at back of left side panel. Lined in gray polyester. Designer's label at inside side seam: "Jon Haggins"
Hat
Hat of ivory/ecru panne velvet, black fur, ivory lace, and a black plume. The crown is of low, crushed ivory or ecrue panne velvet, with a lower border of black fur. The wide brim had an inner wire framework covered with ivory lace, edged with the same black fur. Extending from lower edge of crown at side to off of the edge of the brim is a large black plume. Crown is lined with ivory/ecru satin, with gathered section at center. There are no labels in the hat. Gift of Margaret Baker. From the trousseau of Mrs. Thomas Elmer Braniff.
Hat
Hat of blue straw. The hat is of finely woven blue straw, having a crown styled somewhat as a cloche, high, rounded, and somewhat irregular, curving inward at base. The crown has several applied blue straw 3-lobed bows scattered over the surface. The brim is of dark blue crepe over a fine white straw mesh base (visible only from inside crown), the crepe also covering the lower part of the crown. The brim is set off-center to crown, with wider section to front and narrower sections at back and sides. Applied to the crepe are several of the 3-lobed straw bows and two bordering bands near edge of brim, consisting of thin woven bands of blue straw. The underside of the brim is covered with the blue crepe, while the inside of the crown is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat.
Hat
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown.
Child's Dress
Child's dress of black & tan woven cotton check/plaid. Full-length, with high, rounded collar. Set in black taffeta full-length sleeves with wide cuffs of the black/tan check, secured with two mother of pearl buttons each. Natural waist. Hem with wide band of ruffled black taffeta and a plain band of black taffeta running slightly above hem. Patch pocket at right hip composed of plaid panels formed as a "vest", with black taffeta ruffle filling in center, and three non-functioning circular mother of pearl buttons on slight curve following edge of "vest" front non-functioning opening. Center back opening with 9 circular mother of pearl buttons and hook & loop at neckline.
Cape
Ripple style waist-length cape of black wool felt with yoke of five rows of black satin ribbon and 6" middle tier of black lace. Ruffled stand-up collar of black silk gauze. Secures at center front neckline with two hook & eyes and ties of black satin ribbon. Unlined.
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress with black wool bodice and plaid skirt.
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