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Texas Fashion Collection
Dress shoe of yellow satin. 2" heel. 'King Louis' style pumps. Pointed toe. Ornament on vamp with embroidery of a pink rose and green foliage on yellow background.
Left- "Pietro / Last / Neiman Marcus"
Right- "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276972/
Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red satin. The jacket is lined in olive green satin, which shows the quilting, and has built-in shoulder pads.
There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30259/
Dress of blue chiffon. The floor-length dress is formed of two layers, an inner sheath, and an outer layer which is fully ruched, covering the inner sheath completely with layers of draping, and affixed to the inner layer at the neckline, zipper, and at cuffs. The dress has a V-neck at both front and back. The ruching forms "swags" which join at the neckline and center seams on front and back. The three-quarter length sleeves are similarly ruched, anchored along seams running from shoulder to wrist. Center back zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Inner grosgrain ribbon band just below bust which secures with hook-and-eye closure.
Designer's label sewn inside at ribbon band: "Halston". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30331/
Tunic dress of silk chiffon with under dress of silk knit.
Tunic dress knee-length, with high-rounded neckline in front and deep, scooped, plunging neckline in back. Neckline edged with spaced large faux pearls. Long sleeves, and handkerchief hem. The tunic dress has overall-embellishment of white pearls, iridescent sequins, white seed pearls, silvered seed beads, bugle beads and crystal drops designed as New York skyline. Evidence that designer's label has been removed.
The under dress of white silk knit is ankle-length, with high rounded front neckline and cowl back neckline with horizontal ties and crystal pendants. Handkerchief hemline.
Designer's label at side seam: "Zandra Rhodes / London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283754/
Hat of purple felt. The hat is visually similar to a toque, but is designed with a domed crown and a brim that turns upwards vertically, forming a high band around the crown. Around the crown is a band of purple ribbon. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Adolfo II / New York Paris"
Stamped inside: "100% Wool / 'Excello' / Made in U.S.A. / Geo. W. Bollman & Co., Inc." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283723/
Men's pajamas of silk crepe. The two-piece set consists of a top and pants, both made of silk crepe printed with a design of large eyes decorated with teardrop-shaped colored "gems". The top has a rounded notched collar, long sleeves, and a patch pocket at left breast. The center front opening has four circular black buttons. The collar, center-front opening, and pocket are edged in black trim. Unlined.
The top has a designer's label inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham"
The full-length pants are wide-legged, and have a drawstring in the waistband.
The pants have four labels sewn in:
Designer's Label: "Todd / Oldham"
Content: "100% / Silk"
Care: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / In U.S.A." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30297/
Pumps of black kid leather. The shoes have a pointed toe and 3 1/8" high stiletto heel. The shoes are enhanced by a draped leather detail at outside vamp/instep of each shoe which is gathered and bound by a semi-circular strap of reptile skin.
Designer: "Bally / Made in Italy"
Stamped on sole: "Vero Cuolo" within outline of a hide, and " 8 M" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87099/
Pumps of black alligator. The shoes have a rounded toe, and 3" high heel. Lined in taupe leather.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Chanel" and "Made in Italy"
Slingback pumps of red satin with gold metallic leather at pointed toe. The shoes have a 3" high square spike heel, and are lined in gold metallic leather. Back straps has square, textured gold-colored metal buckle on outside of foot.
Designer label: "Chanel / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115027/
- Skirt Suit
A) Jacket of ivory wool with shirt collar with long, wide lapel that is rolled around toward the front and held in place by 2 gold coiled ornaments, one on each side; single snap closure at center-front with gold S-shaped ornament over; jacket is fitted at waist with two crescent seams; long sleeves with inner shoulder pads; two diagonal pockets at hips with lapels; lower hip length; lined in soft white synthetic.
B) Pencil skirt of black wool with 4 panels and 1” waistband with diagonal snap closure at left back side; left back zip closure; 6” slit at front right; 24” length; lined in black synthetic. Size 38
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286916/
Pair of pumps of silver satin. Square toe shoes, with 1 3/4" high square Cuban or modified Louis heel.
Donor wore these shoes with an ensemble by Michael Faircloth (TFC 2011.026.002)
Designer's label inside each shoe: "Stuart Weitzman"
Marked inside of each shoe on side: "S249146 9 B"
Stamped on each sole: "Leather / Sole / Stuart Weitzman / Made in Spain". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115030/
Pair of shoes of gold leather. Designed with slightly pointed toes, the shoes are modified D'Orsay pumps, with open toe formed by crossed-over wide straps at vamp, and with cut-away sides on the outside of shoe. High stiletto heels covered with same leather, tapering to base. Lined in silver leather.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Bruno Magli / Bologna * Made in Italy"
Stamped on sole: "7 / Vero / Cuoio" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86975/
Cap of tan, ivory, black and red Tartan plaid cotton with visor. Woven into the fabric are 4 pale images of the Burberrys knight. The cap is lined in tan viscose, with an inner trim of tan grosgrain ribbon.
Retailer's label under clear plastic panel in crown of cap: "'Burberrys' / Made in England [copyright symbol]".
Content/care label in 4 languages and symbols.
Size label: "S". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305419/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of black and pale pink acetate with black tulle lace over vest of bust and on trim of sleeves and hem; three-quarter length sleeves with gathering at shoulders, elasticized at forearms, and 4” lace trim; bodice has vest of pale pink acetate with over-layer of black tulle lace; scalloped, soft V-neckline; skirt of black acetate gathered into a satin ribbon at hem trimmed in scalloped lace; below knee-length; center-back zip closure.
Designer's label: "Pat Kerr / One / Cumberland Place / London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286889/
Full-length evening dress of copper and olive polyester. Bodice has two sections of material which form a v-neckline in front and which are joined in back of neck by 3 cloth covered buttons, separating and falling almost all of the way down the back of the dress. Empire waistband,3 ½” wide, is gathered and pleated and wraps around to the back. Full-length wrap-style skirt. Center back zipper closure. The bodice is lined in orange polyester. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30335/
Evening dress of blue silk gazar. The full-length dress has a fitted bodice simulating a wrap style, with V neckline, and long straight sleeves with 5 fabric buttons at each wrist. The skirt has an asymmetrical peplum with an inverted opening in front that is equal to the floor length A-line skirt, giving the effect of an over-skirt pulled back to reveal an underskirt. At back is a zipper closure from neckline to below hips, with a series of snaps at the top of the peplum. The dress has an accompanying leather belt covered with the same blue silk gazar. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30275/
Dress of off-white silk. Ankle-length dress with V neckline at front and back with piped edge and with long, lightly puffed sleeves supported by small pads. Hem and sleeves with fine rolled hems. At front is a wide, dropped, cross-over band at waist which repeats at back, the back forming a yoke into which the skirt gathers. Lapped zipper closure on left side. The entire garment has pleating inspired by the designs of Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo,(May 11, 1871–May 3, 1949)
Acquired by the donor at the Fort Worth, Texas, branch of Neiman Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30311/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble of gold and silver Lurex knit consisting of blouse and skirt. Long sleeved blouse with round neckline and ties at wrists. Trimmed at lower hem with wide black ribbon which ties at side. Matching full-length skirt. On both pieces the knitting is done to simulate the effect of fine pleating.
Each piece has designer label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30223/
- Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30274/
- Evening Dress
Short evening dress of silver lamé and sequined lace with ostrich feather skirt. Straight strapless bodice with drop waist. Lower skirt covered with vertical rows of beige feather boa. Lined in taupe silk.
With matching boa of ostrich feather with silver and gold Lurex thread.
Designer's label on inside back shoulder: "Victor Costa"
Style number tag under designer's label: "Style 7780 / Size 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286821/
- Evening Ensemble
Dress ensemble of white net lace embellished with silver bugle beads and tiny silver sequins, and beige silk chiffon:
A) Dress of beige silk. Bodice with round neckline and no sleeves, and 2" band at empire waistline; 9" upper portion of skirt of floral embroidered net accented with bugle beads and sequins with rows of scalloped bugle beads at bottom from which full-length beaded fringe falls to hem; skirt continues to full-length with vertical stripes of floral lace and silver bugle beads. 18" slit at center-front; center-back zip closure; fully backed with tan crepe.
Designer's label near waist inside dress: "by Alfred Bosand / New York".
B) Top of white net lace embellished with silver bugle beads and silver sequins; bust and long sleeves of vertical stripes of floral lace and silver bugle beads; lower portion and band collar of floral embroidered net accented with bugle beads and sequins with rows of scalloped bugle beads at top of scalloped collar, and below bust, separating the two sections; pull-over with elasticized waist and center-back snap closure; unlined except for band collar.
No label in top. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286944/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of ivory satin and black lace. Garment is a full-length, A-line ivory satin dress with 3 wide horizontal bands of applied black lace on skirt and an attached black lace empire-style over-bodice. The bodice, consisting of overlapping lace scallops, has a deep square neckline and full-length sleeves. There are two covered snap closures on each wrist and a series of paired covered snap closures down center back. The dress has a center-back zipper with a single hook-and-eye fastener at the neckline. The ivory silk inner bodice has internal steel(?) boning for shaping, and fastens with a center-back zipper and internal grosgrain band waist stay. Inside the gown is a full-length, attached ivory satin slip with horsehair hem. The dress is piece-lined in ivory organza with a horsehair hem.
Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "4677S". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30258/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of black velvet with scoop neckline and long, tapered sleeves. The full-length gown has 3 diagonal-set flounces from left hip to right knee that fall to the hem on right side; flounces are each 7 ½” of pleated synthetic and are slightly ruffled; bodice has crescent princess seams with gathering at bust; straight skirt has a left-side slit; sleeves have single snap closure at wrists; dress is fully lined in satin; center-back zip closure.
Combined designer's and retailer's label: "Victor Costa / for / Lord & Taylor" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286785/
Hat of yellow straw. The woven straw hat has a boxy, cylindrical crown, flat on top. The brim is also of yellow woven straw, and turns up to to vertical very close to the crown forming a high "wall" around the crown. Crown is unlined, with a pink grosgrain ribbon inside around the base of the crown.
Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Frank Olive". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30307/
Hat of newsboy cap style in brown felt. Unlined.
Label on inside crown: "U.B.U / streetwise hats / Made in England" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283756/
Headpiece. Turban-like ring or headband of olive green rayon with a central horizontal band of twisted fabric with single large knot. Bordered all the way around at top and bottom by two layers of the same fabric, pleated and scalloped.
Designer's label sewn inside: "Zandra Rhodes / London", with hand-written notes: "100% Rayon / England". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286892/
Headpiece. Turban-like ring or headband of olive green rayon. Pleated horizontally with a "cross-over" at front which is edged with pleated scallops of same fabric.
Label sewn inside: "Zandra Rhodes / London", with hand-written notes: "100% Rayon / England" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286850/
Jacket of black, green, red, pink, and yellow flannel in a large, painterly plaid pattern. The jacket is just below hip-length, and has a round neckline and no collar. Center front closure has a zipper with a gold metal rose charm pull, matching the pulls of the zippers on the two diagonal slit pockets at hips. Long-sleeved, with three non-functional buttons at wrists, formed as coiled snakes/spirals of gold metal. The jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black satin.
Designer's label: "Ungaro / Parallele / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286901/
- D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of gray leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, and cut-away sides. Toebox has a deep "v" cut at throat of instep, edged with red as is the platform of the shoe. From the point of the cut extends back a t-strap which fastens around the ankle of wearer with a small buckle. 3 1/2" high stiletto heel covered with same gray leather.
Stamped inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France"
Accompanied by original Charles Jourdan shoebox. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115005/
- Platform Pumps
Pair of platform pumps. Shoes are of brown patent leather, with white top stitching. Pointed toes, and a 4" block set-back heel.
Stamped in each shoe: "107 N 7"; "Yves Saint Laurent / Paris". Stamped on soles: "Made / Vero / Cuoio / Italy / AA / 7" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114948/
Pair of pumps of plastic and leather. The pumps are of a plastic printed with a multi-colored hologram surface of stripes with stars, stripes and dots. 3" spike heels covered with blue leather. White leather inner. Sole of brown and black leather.
Label inside each shoe: "Stuart Weitzman / for / Mr. Seymour".
Stamped inside each shoe: "5W 79087 N 7 1/2"
Stamped on sole: "Leather / Sole" in hide outline; Stuart Weitzman & Co / Made in Spain" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39032/
Pair of speckled taupe leather pumps. Uppers of light taupe leather embellished with tiny grayish flat pebbled textural design. Toe cap of black patent leather. 3 3/4" spike heel covered in black patent leather. Lined in olive leather except inner heel, which is lined in natural light brown leather. Soles of black leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France".
Stamped inside each heel: "37 X 7 2A 586855 NF".
Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39038/
Pair of tan and black leather sling-back pumps. Uppers of tan/brown leather with black leather toe cap. Sling-back strap with gilt metal buckle. 2 3/4" continental heel covered in tan/brown leather. Shoe lined in putty colored leather. Sole of natural brown leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Made in France"; Chanel / [logo]".
Stamped inside upper: "105002 37".
Stamped on sole: "37 / DE / [logo] / Coupe monte fini main". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39036/
- Skirt Suit
A) Jacket of fuchsia flat weave wool with ring collar and zip-front closure; long raglan sleeves with inner shoulder pads; circular geometrical stitched panels at front and back; two circular patch pockets at hips; crescent princess seams; fitted at waist; peplum at back with reverse box pleat and attached belt of self-wool with metal buckle above; lower hip length; partially lined in magenta synthetic.
B) Skirt of black stretch wool with 2” waistband with diagonal snap closure; darts at front and back; center-back zip closure; 18 ½” length. Size 38
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286904/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of gray fine plaid.
A) Jacket of gray fine plaid with an over-layer of black floral lace exposing the plaid; lace has scallop trim 2” above the wrists and hem of the jacket. Jacket has round neckline; 4 gray button closure down center-front; long sleeves with inner shoulder pads; lower hip length; fully lined in black synthetic.
B) Skirt of matching plaid with 1 ½” waistband with center-back zip and hook and eye closure; darts at front and back; lined in black synthetic; 17” length.
Designer's Label: "Bill Blass"
Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286873/
Dress of olive green knit with long raglan sleeves. V-neckline with right side panel wrapping over to left and ending at left-front side. Skirt has panel wrapping over to right and ending at right-front side and creating a flap. Lower mid-length. Center-back zip closure with single gold plated button closure at back neck band. Padded shoulders. Unlined.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Geoffrey Beene"
Union label, cleaning instructions and size tag together at center back seam towards hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283721/
Dress of black silk chiffon with large, painterly, abstract designs of red, gold, light gray, blue, and purple in a swirly teardrop shape throughout over black silk. Three-quarter length sleeves with flutter ruffle along top seam. Round scoop neckline. Sheath-like silhouette; ankle-length. Center-back, self-chiffon covered button closure.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Hanae Mori / Boutique"
Care / size tag attached to base of designer's label.
Labels suggest made for USA market.
Accompanied by a barrette of black grosgrain ribbon carnation with tiny ribbon accents of red, turquoise, and purple satin that was worn with dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283708/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt and Blouse
Suit in hot pink nubbly wool knit. The ensemble consists of three pieces: a jacket, matching skirt, and black silk shell.
The jacket is hip-length, with a shawl collar which has an attached black silk tie. The center front closure has 6 circular brass buttons with central embossed lion's heads and black outer edges. There are four faux flap pockets at front, two on each side of opening, each with button matching those of the closure. The long sleeves have simulated closure, with a line of three buttons matching others on each sleeve. The pocket flaps, cuffs, collar, center front, and hem are all edged in black. Designer's label sewn inside jacket at collar: "Adolfo / New York", with retailer's label sewn in just below: "Neiman-Marcus". The matching skirt is below-knee length, of the same pink wool knit, with pleating beginning 7" below waistband and extending to hem. Skirt has designer's label sewn inside at waistband as jacket. The accompanying black silk blouse is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Single black silk -covered button closure at back of neck. Shell has designer's label sewn inside at left of closure as jacket. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30285/
- Ensemble - Vest and Pants
Ensemble consisting of a vest and pants. The vest is of wool,with a scoop-neck and with 5 hook-and-eye closures down center front. It is covered in sewn-on black sequins, and has a 1" border of orange, white and gold beads with gold trim at neckline, front opening, hem, and armholes. On the front and back of the vest are 3" diamond shapes formed of the same beads. The white and orange beads are plastic. The vest is fully lined in black fabric. Labels in vest: "Valentina LTD / RN 34435 / Made in Hong Kong"; "100% Wool / Made in Hong Kong"; and "Medium". The pants are formed as a divided skirt of black wool in a satin weave simulating crepe-back satin. They are floor length, with full-length accordion pleats. There is a wide 3" waistband that is completely beaded to match the vest. The pants have a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband, and are unlined. Inside the pants is a single tag at waistband: "Lot Number 11/12". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30302/
Choker of satin and feathers. Neck band of 1 1/2" double faced black satin ribbon with double hooks at ends. At center is rosette of hackle and guinea feathers in black, brownish, and white spots.
Tag sewn to one end of ribbon stating "Made in France", Style/model "Uo 28", color "Black, and other notes that are illegible.
Made to go with an evening dress by Ungaro.
Pairs of pumps of green reptile patchwork. The shoes are designed with a pointed toe, and uppers made of triangular sections of dyed reptile pieced together. The sections are dyed in various shades of greens and browns. The throat has an extending triangular section which is oriented to point towards the wearer's leg. The low, chunky heels are covered with the same skin, and taper to base.
Designer's label inside: "SusanBennisWarrenEdwards"
Stamped inside: "4514 Zig-Zag 7"
Stamped on sole: "Designed by / Susan / Bennis / Warren / Edwards / Hand Made / In Itayl / 7" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87037/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Dress and coat of peacock feathers. The short, sleeveless dress is entirely covered with peacock breast feathers, accented with a 1" band of blue cording and chenille trim at neckline and with blue cord spaghetti straps. It is fully lined with navy polyester. The long, sleeveless coat is covered with peacock herl / flue feathers. It has a round neckline, and no closure.
These pieces are part of a larger ensemble, consisting of a total of 9 pieces decorated with peacock and/or golden pheasant feathers.
Worn to the Emmy Awards ceremony in Los Angeles, California, April 1976. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30293/
Hat of rust wool felt with rolled, tubular shaped brim. Style sometime referred to as "bumper hat". Unlined with orange grosgrain headband.
Crown stamped: "100% Wool / 'Esccello' / Geo. W. Bollman & Co., Inc"
Designer's label on inside headband: "Frank's Girl / Designed by / Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283719/
- Scarf Hat
Hat formed of a printed scarf. The hat is constructed to look as a scarf that has been tied around the wearer's head, with long trailing ends at back. The under-structure is a domed crown of stiffened black mesh overlaid with the printed scarf, which has a navy blue ground, white stars, and gold American eagles. The hat has an inner pink grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286907/
- Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
A) Choli (top) - Sleeved, backless top. Deep V-neckline. Short sleeves. Patchwork, using various types, colors, and patterns of fabric. Panels at sides, bottom, and upper breasts/lower front shoulders of rows of various sized mirrors framed in different color stitching. Ties in back. Lined in various fabrics.
B) Ghaghra (skirt) - Ankle-length skirt made of horizontal bands of various fabrics. From top: Green waistband; Yellow band with red stitched "X" forms; Wide band of three rows of small circular mirrors framed in various colors of cloth, the bands divided by a blue and an orange stripe of cloth with stitched "X" forms; Thin green band with red stitches; Very thin white strip; Pink stripe with center band of yellow/green running across it; Narrow band of various-colored fabric in slightly wavy profile; Black band with center band of various color stitching; White crenelated band; purple band; Wide green section with center wide red stripe with yellow borders; Wide hem with various embroidered bands and stitching. Lined in red fabric with light yellow printed paisley design. Slit at side, tie at waistband.
C) Necklace. Yarn/cord necklace. Ball/loop closure at back. Back part of necklace covered with tightly wound spiral of tiny red/purple beads. Necklace has 7 pendants of graduated sizes composed of silver-colored coins with attached loops and with attached hanging loops from which are suspended small silver spheres. Between each coin pendant is a tubular silver spacer bead. Coins are from India, of several denominations, one dated 1984, one dated 1985, others with dates obscured. No maker's marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 21 3/4" long
D) Necklace. Long, narrow corded/twined black necklace with central openwork beaded "zig-zag" line of tiny beads in groups of red, yellow, green, red, blue, green, and orange, with white beads at the "points" of the zig zags. Attached to lower edge of necklace is a "fringe" of various coins mounted with silver rectangular bars. Coins are from Afghanistan (20th century), Pakistan (dated 1981 and 1982), and Iran (reign of Shah Muhammad Reza Pahlavi, from 1970's). No maker's marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 21 3/4" long
Not shown in photographs are:
E) Upper-arm band of maroon cotton/linen. Rectangular, with pink, green, and gold embroidery and 4 large circular mirror appliques with orange, green, and yellow borders along length, and two small circular mirrors with orange borders at one end. 7 large cast silver-colored metal pendant beads along lower edge. Cloth tie at each corner. 3 1/4" wide x 12 3/4" long. No labels or tags.
F) Upper-arm band of maroon cotton/linen. Rectangular, with pink, green, and gold embroidery and 4 large circular mirror appliques with orange, green, and yellow borders along length, and two small circular mirrors with orange borders at one end. 7 large cast silver-colored metal openwork triangular pendants along lower edge. Cloth tie at each corner. 3 1/4" wide x 12 3/4" long. No labels or tags. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277035/
Evening dress of pale yellow silk chiffon with bead detailing. V-neckline in front creating the halter, with pieces draped from halter down and out to sides. The entire bodice is finely pleated and gathered, and has beaded panels which creates an empire waist. The beaded panels vary from narrow at center front to wide at sides, and meet at center back. The beading is white and silver beaded horizontal stripes on a mauve background. The skirt is formed by the chiffon being gathered into the beaded panels in many layers and falling to the floor. Dress has a matching lining and has a zipper down center back with hook-and-eye closures at top of zipper and at halter.
Label in gown: "Victoria Royal Ltd. / Made In / British Crown Colony / of / Hong Kong". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30333/
- Festival Attire - Akha Hill Tribe
Festival ensemble, Akha Hill Tribe, Thailand.
a) Jacket/bodice. Jacket or bodice of black cotton, waist-length, with no collar, shaped neckline, and front opening with no closures. On right side of bodice at upper breast/collarbone is applied panel/section which forms edge of opening. Panel has "zig-zag" effect of three points created by patchwork of various printed fabrics and applied thin bands. Long sleeves with blue fabric sewn at ends to create cuffs. At back, "hanging" from collar is patchwork panel of patterned cloths shaped as a trapezoid with curved long side. Primarily lined in blue cloth with white geometric/linear designs, part of embroidery panel at front lined with a printed brown fabric with small black/yellow geometric design. (zig-zag panel at front)
b) Pants. Pants of black cotton embellished with multicolored embroidery. Full-length depending on height of wearer. Wide plain waistband in front, elasticized section at back, and with attached string belt at side which has pom-pom terminals. At front, from waistband, are two "flaps" over upper legs, one forming a pocket with wide decorative band at top consisting of red strips of fabric on dark blue fabric band. The second flap has wide horizontal band of embroidered fabric, with bands of diamonds, squares, "x" shapes, etc. in yellow, blue, white, black, etc. on primarily orange ground. Cuffs of pants, at outer side of each leg, has rectangular applied panels of cross-stitch embroidered fabric in reddish, white, and mustard, with applied machine-woven decorative ribbon with pink squares and blue shapes. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment.
c) Hat. Black with beading and silver and shells, with red decorations and pendant parts
d) Belt. Black cotton(?) belt formed as a rectangle, upper and side edges straight, lower edge gently scalloped to form points at center front and at sides. Belt is edged with border of small blue/green, brownish/tan seeds, with two horizontal bands of same seeds running across belt. Between bands of seeds are bands of silver-colored cabochon discs. Just above each point is a star-burst made of oval white beads/seeds, colored beads, and a cowrie(?) shell. From each point hangs 3 beaded pendants with a bell at end of each. Belt secures with black ties. No labels or tags. ca. 35 1/2" long w/out ties; 5" wide w/out fringe/pendants.
e & f) Over-sleeves. Detachable sleeves formed as two 15 1/2" long fabric cylinders, slightly wider at top than cuff, which slide over sleeves of jacket. The cylinders are made of horizontal bands of different woven patterned fabrics of primarily pinks with green, white, and orange decorations, sewn together, with alternating bands of red cloth with applied rick-rack in blue, white, green, yellow, pink, etc., each with silver threading. Sleeves are lined with a printed white fabric with blue linear stripe/band designs. No labels or tags in garment.
g) Bag of black cotton, embellished with embroidery, bead-work, silver discs, and a single coin. Long black cotton strap. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277094/
A) Jeogori (Jacket) of white and red damask patterned with floral motifs. Short, cropped white damask top with deep V neckline lined in red damask. Long sleeves, widening towards fore-arm and then curved to wrist. Under-arm area and cuff of the red damask. Center front opening secured with one hidden snap and two long ties of red damask. Lined in thin white fabric.
No labels in garment.
B) Chima (Skirt) of red damask matching the Jeogori. Full-length, wrap-style garment. Thin white straps to go over shoulders support wide upper band into which the body of the skirt is gathered. Ties at back with ties of red damask. Lined in dark red fabric.
No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277082/
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286826/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black jersey. The cylindrical crown has a flat, slightly recessed top, and bands of black silk ribbon decoration applied horizontally around sides. Upper and lower bands are of plain layered ribbon forming slightly molded bands, while central band is of twisted/folded/worked ribbon creating a dimensional braided pattern. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband and a single small faux turtle shell comb to help secure it to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305376/