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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Cartwheel Hat
Natural straw cartwheel or picture hat. The wide, slightly floppy, brim slopes up to the low circular domed crown. Around the crown is a black silk scarf attached in three places with black bows, with trailing section off of the back of the brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30000/
Coat Dress
Coat dress of white textured silk; fitted back and loose draped front ending over left bust line with long flange to hem. Designer's Label at inside center back below collar " Printemps - Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on label: "789[(?) last number is illegible]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114749/
Dress
Dress of oyster white linen. The daytime dress is designed as a "Sailor Dress", with a straight silhouette and short sleeves. It has a blue "sailor collar" trimmed with two bands of white linen. The sleeves are likewise edged in a wide blue band with two white linen stripes. There is a red silk faille tie. The street-length skirt has two patch pockets at front. Zipper closure at left side. The dress is unlined, and has inner waistband of oyster grosgrain ribbon with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label sewn inside skirt at left side: "Traina-Norell / New York". The dress has an accompanying narrow navy blue leather belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30055/
Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283770/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of green leather jacket and green and black striped knit dress with green leather belt. The sheath-style street-length dress is of wool jersey with a knitted pattern of horizontal green and black stripes. It has very short sleeves and a wide boat neckline, and is unlined. The dress has an accompanying green leather belt that ends in fringe. The street-length coat is of matching green leather, with long sleeves and tuxedo collar that extends to lower hem. The center-front opening has no closures, and there is a welt pocket at each side seam. The coat is lined in the same fabric the dress is made from, and faces the tuxedo collar and opening. There are no designer labels in the garments, and the coat has retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30009/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
(At Right) Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with bust darts, there is an attached bow of the same fabric just below the bust on the front. Slightly dropped waist, with box pleating from waist down the skirt. At front there are two box pleats that start at bow and continue down the front of the dress. Center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. It has 3/4-length sleeves and no collar. The center-front opening has no closures. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". The Spring/Summer 1956 line was called the Flèche ("Arrow")Line. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows ensemble as displayed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30071/
Hat
Hat of white organza. High pillbox crown, 4" deep. Bottom edge of crown encircled with 3" wide bias organdy that ties in large bow at center front. Lined in white silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Covered wires at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305396/
Hat
Suit hat of black velour. Rounded 4" deep crown. 2" wide front upward turned brim. 1/2" wider at sides, turning downward at center back. Has large black ostrich feather tassel at center back. Lined in netting with gray grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Comb at center front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305345/
Hat
Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277030/
Hat
Mushroom hat of red strawcloth and tucks on four corners. Interior headband covered in same to secure hat to head. Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39146/
Mushroom Hat
Mushroom hat of red/orange baku straw. Uniquely cut crown is square with points at front and back. Four side panels are formed off of sides of square crown. Lined in white gauze material with red/orange grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305425/
Mushroom Hat
Cocktail mushroom hat of black silk gazar. Over-sized, with flat top and slightly downward turned 6" brim. Pillbox inner crown with black grosgrain inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305385/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat covered with draped silk scarf of black with pink polka dot print. Knotted accent on back states "Balenciaga" on pink border with frayed ends. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30136/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of dark brown straw cloth with small visor brim. Brown grosgrain ribbon surrounds brim. Large button of metallic thread attached to crown with 3 matching buttons hanging from grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label attached to inside brim: "Exclusive Millinery / Pfeifers / Little Rock" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39186/
Beret
Hat of striped felt. The hat is formed as a "pancake beret" on a rigid, slightly curved frame. The crown is of felt with wide width-wise stripes of olive green and black. The edge is embellished with a swagged band of bronze and black beads which runs from just behind the midway point of the side of the hat, around the front, and to just behind the midway point on the other side of the hat. The interior of the hat is lined in black fabric, and there is an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chez Henriette". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39245/
Calotte
Hat of red satin and sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of dark red satin almost completely covered in sequined floral appliques. Irregular lower edge, following the outline of the appliques. Lined in black paper (?) and satin, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the band indicates the front of the hat, and a small applied white ribbon bow is set at back. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending across the inside of the hat, the "Paris", most of "New" and all of "York" are cut off. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39216/
Calotte
Hat of black velvet and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of black velvet, with an irregular lower edge. Set around the calotte are 5 large tear-drop shaped rhinestones, 4 at front and 1 at back. Each stone is bordered by concentric bands of pearls, small rhinestones and gray tubular beads. The beading bands continue around the hat, linking the larger stones, and becomes the lower border of the hat. The hat is lined with black satin, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Ere Nouvelle / New York / Reg. U.S. Pat. Off." Sewn to maker's label is size label: "22 / MSC" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39053/
Calotte
Hat of green felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed green felt crown, and a brim that folds up around the crown, extending almost as high as the crown in front. At the base of the crown, within the area of the brim, is a gather of brown veiling/netting that runs about 3/4 of the circumference of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband at the inside base of the crown. A stitched mark on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's / Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" Stamped inside crown: "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39094/
Calotte
Hat of beige felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed beige felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The outer crown is "cut open" and "peeled back", to reveal the crown below. The lower edge of the crown is rolled up and in to create the appearance of a narrow rolled brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark beige grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" Supplier's mark stamped inside crown: "Riviera / Finest Quality / Velour / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38112/
Calotte
Hat of pale purple or violet felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed pale purple felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The lower form has a horizontal "tuck" near the base, enhancing the impression of the hat being stacked felt domes. On right side of the crown near base is an applied bow of the same felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Stamped inside the crown: "Premier / Finest Quality / Imported / Velour" Joint Designer's and Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus". Retains original Neiman-Marcus paper tag. Obverse: "Neiman-Marcus / B830 / x8SINZ / 7529x / 2995"; Reverse: "15 00" With matching hatpin, the head covered with a small pad of the same felt as the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38111/
Calotte
Hat of sequins and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped crown covered in iridescent sequins of light blues, with a large flower-head on either side embellished with pale blue and white sequins, gray bead, and pearls. The petals of the flowers extend below edge of crown. Overlaid with pale blue light mesh veil. Lined in lace. Designer's label inside: "A / Frances & Walter Nelkin / Hat", with a red sequin sewn in each upper corner of label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277046/
Calotte
Hat of brwon felt and brown feathers. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped close crown of brown felt totally covered with long brown feathers laid lengthwise across crown and forming "petals" at edges. Overlaid with brown mesh veil. Unlined, but edged with narrow band of brown grosgrain ribbon. Accompanied by two pearl-headed pins. Designer's label sewn inside: "Styled by Coralie" Attached to hat is original paper label: "Thank You! / We hope you enjoy / your beautiful new hat" and "28 42J / 303" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276998/
Calotte
Hat of black felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low domed crown has a velvet-like appearance. At front, the edge turns up and back, and is covered with black seed beads. At right side is a group of 7" long fine black stripped feathers accented with 5 red wires. Unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inside headband: "Designed for you / by / Derrieux". Stamped inside of crown: "[coat of arms] / Ruth / Made in Czechoslovakia" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277132/
Calotte
Calotte of navy blue felt. The calotte (also spelled "calot") is designed as a low domed crown of navy blue felt constructed of 6 graduated layers. At left side is a large bow of same felt. The hat is lined in white floral mesh lace, and has a navy blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286871/
Calotte
Hat of very pale green felt and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with slightly shaped crown embellished with scattered transparent gray beads, pearl beads, and rhinestones. Unlined. Inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277053/
Calotte
Hat of black velvet. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with low, domed crown. Crown is rolled and upturned, and is embelished at front right with a white metal brooch set with simulated rhinestones forming a star-burst. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label at inside headband: "Valerie / Modes" Size label at inside hatband: "22 / MSC" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277143/
Calotte
Calotte of maroon satin and black sequins. Hat styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with rounded low crown of maroon satin covered with scrolling lines of black sequins. The lower edge of the crown is shaped into irregular points and curves, and is edged with black velvet. A short black veil encircles the hat and hangs down slightly. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277121/
Calotte
Hat of purple satin. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of purple satin with cluster of purple violets and an orchid of velvet. With a purple net veil. Lined in purple satin with a dark blue/purple grosgrain inner hatband. Accompanied by two short hatpins with matching purple velvet covered heads. Designer's label inside: "Lilyan / Originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277087/
Calotte
Calotte of pink velvet and feathers. The hatlet is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") created of a curved oval/slightly teardrop-shape of layered/draped and folded pink velvet, set across head so that point is at center of right side and curve is at center of left side. The crown is overlaid with a cascade of pink feathers which runs from just above center of left side, across hat, and falling down on right side, with feather ends curling in and under. The hat is lined with pink mesh, and has an inner hatband running around the inside edge of the crown. Affixed to inner hatband at left side is small plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon". Accompanied by short hatpin with simulated pearl mounted on head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39219/
Calotte
Hat of gray felt, burgundy velour, and black sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), formed of a base of stiffened gray felt, overlaid with a layer of burgundy velour. The domed crown extends further down on right side than left, curling out at rim. The crown is covered in black sequins, with an edge of the velour showing slightly at front and back, more at right side. The hat is unlined, with inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. A small stitch in the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene / New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39052/
Calotte
Calotte of navy blue straw and purple velvet. The domed navy blue straw crown is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with a slight peak at top center. It is trimmed along the lower edge with a wide, shaped band of purple velvet. At sides are two round velvet buttons which secure the navy blue mesh veil, which has diamond-shaped clusters of dots scattered throughout the mesh. The hat has an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Size label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286870/
Calotte
Calotte of green velvet and feathers. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the shaped cap has a stiff woven tan straw under-structure, and is covered with green velvet, over which is layered turquoise and teal feathers, and clusters of green velvet buds/berries and leaves. The hat is unlined, allowing the under-structure to be seen, and has a green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. At sides are two small combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286792/
Calotte
Hat of off-white fabric. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low, domed crown is made of a base of stiffened woven off-white straw, covered with off-white fabric. At left side, hanging below edge of crown, is a large bow of same fabric. The hat is unlined, with an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286888/
Calotte
Calotte of black satin. The calotte (also spelled "calot"), is created on a base of stiffened black mesh. The low, somewhat domed crown is formed by tucked and draped satin. The hat is unlined, and has a small comb attached to the inside edge to help secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Original Model / Marcelle / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286935/
Calotte Hat
Calotte hat of black net and black velvet. Small black velvet bows as trim around headband and on netting over open crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276974/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hatlet of 4 ultramarine velvet bows. Open crown, wire frame structure covered in matching material. Entire hat covered with matching veil. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277117/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat made of brown net covered with green silk leaves and violet rose buds. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39050/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of brown satin with 2 V-shaped temple clips. Clips and rim trimmed with 4 rows of bronze beading. Lined in brown netting. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305399/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of dark violet velvet. Four light violet and four dark violet "leaves" as trim around crown. Veil of purple netting over front of hat. Lined in purple net. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305334/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of navy straw cloth. Small upturned brim is separate from crown and forms Vs at sides. Pale pink rose with green leaves on left front as trim with navy veil embellished with rhinestones. Lined in navy satin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305337/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet with black pleated satin coil wrapping around brim of hat. Two vertical bands of rhinestones embellish left and right front of hat. Retailer's label on inside headband: "The Fair / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305395/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of stiffened black woven fabric. One black velvet bow in the back and alternating black woven and black velvet "half bows" around edge of crown. Black veil in front. Retailer's label on inside crown: "The Fair / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305391/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of light brown satin. Brim is trimmed in brown and yellow velvet strawberry clusters with green and brown velvet leaves. Lined in rose colored brocade of floral design. Inner headband of pink grosgrain ribbon trimmed with cinnamon colored lace embellished with pink embroidered flower with rhinestone center at front. Maker's label on inside headband: "Paris / Chapeaux / Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305428/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of dark brown silk faille. Three touching bows of same around sides and front of crown with V point in back. Lined in net with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305347/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet. Small, quilted brim folds up in front and back. One, long tie string of same drapes across front brim and down sides. Black grosgrain ribbon inside hatband. Lined in black fabric. Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Betmar / Adj." Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Lord & Taylor / young new yorkers' / hat shop / Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283679/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velour covered with black beads and sequins. Crown in a sculpted, swirled pattern. Black mesh veil. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276971/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat covered in dark green/black feathers, overlaid with floral appliques of black beading. Lined in black satin, edged with a thin band of dark jersey material and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label inside: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending almost from edge to edge across inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39220/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of navy blue straw. Straw is patterned to look like flattened bow ends; brimless. Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38081/
Cap
Cap of dark navy blue velvet. Designed with a domed crown which slopes out to front to form a visor/brim, and extends down slightly further in back than front. Lined in dark blue satin, and with an inner hatband of dark blue velvet. Retailer's stamp on hatband, partly illegible: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas " Size label: "ADJ." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286796/
Cloche
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris". Gift of New York designer Adele Simpson to the Dallas Museum of Fashion, from her personal collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39049/