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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Coat
Evening coat of brocade and fur. The full-length coat is of a pale yellow silk brocade, with a pattern of flowers and scrolls in reds, purples, blues, white, silver, and gold. It has long sleeves and opens along the center front, with no closures. The cuffs and collar are wide bands of dyed purple fox fur. The coat is lined in a pale tan/yellow silk. Sewn in below collar at inside center back is designer's label: "Designed / by Mouratidis / Washington DC" Attached inside right side near hip is original paper label printed on one side "Balenciaga / Paris", and written on the back "Brocade evening mystery / coat w/fox / R". Donated to the Texas Fashion Collection by Helen Noumas, in memory of her partner Michael Mouratidis, designer of the piece. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30321/
Pumps
Navy blue and white leather pumps. All leather pumps of navy blue leather printed with a polka dot white button motif. Heel and toe of shoe are of solid navy blue leather. Lined in embossed gold leather. Black leather sole. Designer's label stamped inside: "Bruno Magli / Made in Italy Bologna" Satmped inside: "C 4141 11702 5 1/2B" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87063/
Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of pink leather. The shoes have cut-away sides and rounded toes. The toebox and heel uppers of pink leather, with pink leather strap from heels to secure around ankle with small oval gilt metal buckle. 3 1/4" high stacked wooden heel tapers to base. Stamped leather label inside: "Joan & David Too / Made in Italy" Stamped on sole: "Made in Italy / Vero Cuoio / 8 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86963/
Shoes
Dress shoe of mint green satin. 2" heel. 'King Louis' style pumps. Pointed toe. Ornament on vamp with embroidery of a pink rose and green foliage on yellow background. Markings: Left- "Pietro / Last / Neiman Marcus" Right- "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277081/
Shoes
Dress shoe of yellow satin. 2" heel. 'King Louis' style pumps. Pointed toe. Ornament on vamp with embroidery of a pink rose and green foliage on yellow background. Markings: Left- "Pietro / Last / Neiman Marcus" Right- "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276972/
Ballgown
Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red satin. The jacket is lined in olive green satin, which shows the quilting, and has built-in shoulder pads. There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30259/
Dress
Dress of blue chiffon. The floor-length dress is formed of two layers, an inner sheath, and an outer layer which is fully ruched, covering the inner sheath completely with layers of draping, and affixed to the inner layer at the neckline, zipper, and at cuffs. The dress has a V-neck at both front and back. The ruching forms "swags" which join at the neckline and center seams on front and back. The three-quarter length sleeves are similarly ruched, anchored along seams running from shoulder to wrist. Center back zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Inner grosgrain ribbon band just below bust which secures with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label sewn inside at ribbon band: "Halston". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30331/
Pajamas
Men's pajamas of silk crepe. The two-piece set consists of a top and pants, both made of silk crepe printed with a design of large eyes decorated with teardrop-shaped colored "gems". The top has a rounded notched collar, long sleeves, and a patch pocket at left breast. The center front opening has four circular black buttons. The collar, center-front opening, and pocket are edged in black trim. Unlined. The top has a designer's label inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham" The full-length pants are wide-legged, and have a drawstring in the waistband. The pants have four labels sewn in: Designer's Label: "Todd / Oldham" Size: "S" Content: "100% / Silk" Care: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / In U.S.A." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30297/
Pumps
Pumps of black kid leather. The shoes have a pointed toe and 3 1/8" high stiletto heel. The shoes are enhanced by a draped leather detail at outside vamp/instep of each shoe which is gathered and bound by a semi-circular strap of reptile skin. Designer: "Bally / Made in Italy" Stamped on sole: "Vero Cuolo" within outline of a hide, and " 8 M" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87099/
Pumps
Pumps of black alligator. The shoes have a rounded toe, and 3" high heel. Lined in taupe leather. Designer's label stamped inside: "Chanel" and "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115015/
Pumps
Slingback pumps of red satin with gold metallic leather at pointed toe. The shoes have a 3" high square spike heel, and are lined in gold metallic leather. Back straps has square, textured gold-colored metal buckle on outside of foot. Designer label: "Chanel / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115027/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of silver satin. Square toe shoes, with 1 3/4" high square Cuban or modified Louis heel. Donor wore these shoes with an ensemble by Michael Faircloth (TFC 2011.026.002) Designer's label inside each shoe: "Stuart Weitzman" Marked inside of each shoe on side: "S249146 9 B" Stamped on each sole: "Leather / Sole / Stuart Weitzman / Made in Spain". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115030/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of gold leather. Designed with slightly pointed toes, the shoes are modified D'Orsay pumps, with open toe formed by crossed-over wide straps at vamp, and with cut-away sides on the outside of shoe. High stiletto heels covered with same leather, tapering to base. Lined in silver leather. Designer's label stamped inside: "Bruno Magli / Bologna * Made in Italy" Stamped on sole: "7 / Vero / Cuoio" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86975/
Dress
Full-length evening dress of copper and olive polyester. Bodice has two sections of material which form a v-neckline in front and which are joined in back of neck by 3 cloth covered buttons, separating and falling almost all of the way down the back of the dress. Empire waistband,3 ½” wide, is gathered and pleated and wraps around to the back. Full-length wrap-style skirt. Center back zipper closure. The bodice is lined in orange polyester. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30335/
Dress
Evening dress of blue silk gazar. The full-length dress has a fitted bodice simulating a wrap style, with V neckline, and long straight sleeves with 5 fabric buttons at each wrist. The skirt has an asymmetrical peplum with an inverted opening in front that is equal to the floor length A-line skirt, giving the effect of an over-skirt pulled back to reveal an underskirt. At back is a zipper closure from neckline to below hips, with a series of snaps at the top of the peplum. The dress has an accompanying leather belt covered with the same blue silk gazar. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30275/
Dress
Dress of off-white silk. Ankle-length dress with V neckline at front and back with piped edge and with long, lightly puffed sleeves supported by small pads. Hem and sleeves with fine rolled hems. At front is a wide, dropped, cross-over band at waist which repeats at back, the back forming a yoke into which the skirt gathers. Lapped zipper closure on left side. The entire garment has pleating inspired by the designs of Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo,(May 11, 1871–May 3, 1949) Acquired by the donor at the Fort Worth, Texas, branch of Neiman Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30311/
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble of gold and silver Lurex knit consisting of blouse and skirt. Long sleeved blouse with round neckline and ties at wrists. Trimmed at lower hem with wide black ribbon which ties at side. Matching full-length skirt. On both pieces the knitting is done to simulate the effect of fine pleating. Each piece has designer label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30223/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30274/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of ivory satin and black lace. Garment is a full-length, A-line ivory satin dress with 3 wide horizontal bands of applied black lace on skirt and an attached black lace empire-style over-bodice. The bodice, consisting of overlapping lace scallops, has a deep square neckline and full-length sleeves. There are two covered snap closures on each wrist and a series of paired covered snap closures down center back. The dress has a center-back zipper with a single hook-and-eye fastener at the neckline. The ivory silk inner bodice has internal steel(?) boning for shaping, and fastens with a center-back zipper and internal grosgrain band waist stay. Inside the gown is a full-length, attached ivory satin slip with horsehair hem. The dress is piece-lined in ivory organza with a horsehair hem. Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "4677S". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30258/
Hat
Hat of yellow straw. The woven straw hat has a boxy, cylindrical crown, flat on top. The brim is also of yellow woven straw, and turns up to to vertical very close to the crown forming a high "wall" around the crown. Crown is unlined, with a pink grosgrain ribbon inside around the base of the crown. Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Frank Olive". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30307/
Hat
Hat of newsboy cap style in brown felt. Unlined. Label on inside crown: "U.B.U / streetwise hats / Made in England" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283756/
Platform Pumps
Pair of platform pumps. Shoes are of brown patent leather, with white top stitching. Pointed toes, and a 4" block set-back heel. Stamped in each shoe: "107 N 7"; "Yves Saint Laurent / Paris". Stamped on soles: "Made / Vero / Cuoio / Italy / AA / 7" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30171/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of plastic and leather. The pumps are of a plastic printed with a multi-colored hologram surface of stripes with stars, stripes and dots. 3" spike heels covered with blue leather. White leather inner. Sole of brown and black leather. Label inside each shoe: "Stuart Weitzman / for / Mr. Seymour". Stamped inside each shoe: "5W 79087 N 7 1/2" Stamped on sole: "Leather / Sole" in hide outline; Stuart Weitzman & Co / Made in Spain" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39032/
Pumps
Pair of speckled taupe leather pumps. Uppers of light taupe leather embellished with tiny grayish flat pebbled textural design. Toe cap of black patent leather. 3 3/4" spike heel covered in black patent leather. Lined in olive leather except inner heel, which is lined in natural light brown leather. Soles of black leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France". Stamped inside each heel: "37 X 7 2A 586855 NF". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39038/
Pumps
Pair of tan and black leather sling-back pumps. Uppers of tan/brown leather with black leather toe cap. Sling-back strap with gilt metal buckle. 2 3/4" continental heel covered in tan/brown leather. Shoe lined in putty colored leather. Sole of natural brown leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Made in France"; Chanel / [logo]". Stamped inside upper: "105002 37". Stamped on sole: "37 / DE / [logo] / Coupe monte fini main". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39036/
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt and Blouse
Suit in hot pink nubbly wool knit. The ensemble consists of three pieces: a jacket, matching skirt, and black silk shell. The jacket is hip-length, with a shawl collar which has an attached black silk tie. The center front closure has 6 circular brass buttons with central embossed lion's heads and black outer edges. There are four faux flap pockets at front, two on each side of opening, each with button matching those of the closure. The long sleeves have simulated closure, with a line of three buttons matching others on each sleeve. The pocket flaps, cuffs, collar, center front, and hem are all edged in black. Designer's label sewn inside jacket at collar: "Adolfo / New York", with retailer's label sewn in just below: "Neiman-Marcus". The matching skirt is below-knee length, of the same pink wool knit, with pleating beginning 7" below waistband and extending to hem. Skirt has designer's label sewn inside at waistband as jacket. The accompanying black silk blouse is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Single black silk -covered button closure at back of neck. Shell has designer's label sewn inside at left of closure as jacket. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30285/
Ensemble - Vest and Pants
Ensemble consisting of a vest and pants. The vest is of wool,with a scoop-neck and with 5 hook-and-eye closures down center front. It is covered in sewn-on black sequins, and has a 1" border of orange, white and gold beads with gold trim at neckline, front opening, hem, and armholes. On the front and back of the vest are 3" diamond shapes formed of the same beads. The white and orange beads are plastic. The vest is fully lined in black fabric. Labels in vest: "Valentina LTD / RN 34435 / Made in Hong Kong"; "100% Wool / Made in Hong Kong"; and "Medium". The pants are formed as a divided skirt of black wool in a satin weave simulating crepe-back satin. They are floor length, with full-length accordion pleats. There is a wide 3" waistband that is completely beaded to match the vest. The pants have a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband, and are unlined. Inside the pants is a single tag at waistband: "Lot Number 11/12". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30302/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Dress and coat of peacock feathers. The short, sleeveless dress is entirely covered with peacock breast feathers, accented with a 1" band of blue cording and chenille trim at neckline and with blue cord spaghetti straps. It is fully lined with navy polyester. The long, sleeveless coat is covered with peacock herl / flue feathers. It has a round neckline, and no closure. These pieces are part of a larger ensemble, consisting of a total of 9 pieces decorated with peacock and/or golden pheasant feathers. Worn to the Emmy Awards ceremony in Los Angeles, California, April 1976. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30293/
Hat
Hat of rust wool felt with rolled, tubular shaped brim. Style sometime referred to as "bumper hat". Unlined with orange grosgrain headband. Crown stamped: "100% Wool / 'Esccello' / Geo. W. Bollman & Co., Inc" Designer's label on inside headband: "Frank's Girl / Designed by / Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283719/
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India A) Choli (top) - Sleeved, backless top. Deep V-neckline. Short sleeves. Patchwork, using various types, colors, and patterns of fabric. Panels at sides, bottom, and upper breasts/lower front shoulders of rows of various sized mirrors framed in different color stitching. Ties in back. Lined in various fabrics. B) Ghaghra (skirt) - Ankle-length skirt made of horizontal bands of various fabrics. From top: Green waistband; Yellow band with red stitched "X" forms; Wide band of three rows of small circular mirrors framed in various colors of cloth, the bands divided by a blue and an orange stripe of cloth with stitched "X" forms; Thin green band with red stitches; Very thin white strip; Pink stripe with center band of yellow/green running across it; Narrow band of various-colored fabric in slightly wavy profile; Black band with center band of various color stitching; White crenelated band; purple band; Wide green section with center wide red stripe with yellow borders; Wide hem with various embroidered bands and stitching. Lined in red fabric with light yellow printed paisley design. Slit at side, tie at waistband. C) Necklace. Yarn/cord necklace. Ball/loop closure at back. Back part of necklace covered with tightly wound spiral of tiny red/purple beads. Necklace has 7 pendants of graduated sizes composed of silver-colored coins with attached loops and with attached hanging loops from which are suspended small silver spheres. Between each coin pendant is a tubular silver spacer bead. Coins are from India, of several denominations, one dated 1984, one dated 1985, others with dates obscured. No maker's marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 21 3/4" long D) Necklace. Long, narrow corded/twined black necklace with central openwork beaded "zig-zag" line of tiny beads in groups of red, yellow, green, red, blue, green, and orange, with white beads at the "points" of the zig zags. Attached to lower edge of necklace is a "fringe" of various coins mounted with silver rectangular bars. Coins are from Afghanistan (20th century), Pakistan (dated 1981 and 1982), and Iran (reign of Shah Muhammad Reza Pahlavi, from 1970's). No maker's marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 21 3/4" long Not shown in photographs are: E) Upper-arm band of maroon cotton/linen. Rectangular, with pink, green, and gold embroidery and 4 large circular mirror appliques with orange, green, and yellow borders along length, and two small circular mirrors with orange borders at one end. 7 large cast silver-colored metal pendant beads along lower edge. Cloth tie at each corner. 3 1/4" wide x 12 3/4" long. No labels or tags. F) Upper-arm band of maroon cotton/linen. Rectangular, with pink, green, and gold embroidery and 4 large circular mirror appliques with orange, green, and yellow borders along length, and two small circular mirrors with orange borders at one end. 7 large cast silver-colored metal openwork triangular pendants along lower edge. Cloth tie at each corner. 3 1/4" wide x 12 3/4" long. No labels or tags. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277035/
Dress
Evening dress of pale yellow silk chiffon with bead detailing. V-neckline in front creating the halter, with pieces draped from halter down and out to sides. The entire bodice is finely pleated and gathered, and has beaded panels which creates an empire waist. The beaded panels vary from narrow at center front to wide at sides, and meet at center back. The beading is white and silver beaded horizontal stripes on a mauve background. The skirt is formed by the chiffon being gathered into the beaded panels in many layers and falling to the floor. Dress has a matching lining and has a zipper down center back with hook-and-eye closures at top of zipper and at halter. Label in gown: "Victoria Royal Ltd. / Made In / British Crown Colony / of / Hong Kong". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30333/
Festival Attire - Akha Hill Tribe
Festival ensemble, Akha Hill Tribe, Thailand. a) Jacket/bodice. Jacket or bodice of black cotton, waist-length, with no collar, shaped neckline, and front opening with no closures. On right side of bodice at upper breast/collarbone is applied panel/section which forms edge of opening. Panel has "zig-zag" effect of three points created by patchwork of various printed fabrics and applied thin bands. Long sleeves with blue fabric sewn at ends to create cuffs. At back, "hanging" from collar is patchwork panel of patterned cloths shaped as a trapezoid with curved long side. Primarily lined in blue cloth with white geometric/linear designs, part of embroidery panel at front lined with a printed brown fabric with small black/yellow geometric design. (zig-zag panel at front) b) Pants. Pants of black cotton embellished with multicolored embroidery. Full-length depending on height of wearer. Wide plain waistband in front, elasticized section at back, and with attached string belt at side which has pom-pom terminals. At front, from waistband, are two "flaps" over upper legs, one forming a pocket with wide decorative band at top consisting of red strips of fabric on dark blue fabric band. The second flap has wide horizontal band of embroidered fabric, with bands of diamonds, squares, "x" shapes, etc. in yellow, blue, white, black, etc. on primarily orange ground. Cuffs of pants, at outer side of each leg, has rectangular applied panels of cross-stitch embroidered fabric in reddish, white, and mustard, with applied machine-woven decorative ribbon with pink squares and blue shapes. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. c) Hat. Black with beading and silver and shells, with red decorations and pendant parts d) Belt. Black cotton(?) belt formed as a rectangle, upper and side edges straight, lower edge gently scalloped to form points at center front and at sides. Belt is edged with border of small blue/green, brownish/tan seeds, with two horizontal bands of same seeds running across belt. Between bands of seeds are bands of silver-colored cabochon discs. Just above each point is a star-burst made of oval white beads/seeds, colored beads, and a cowrie(?) shell. From each point hangs 3 beaded pendants with a bell at end of each. Belt secures with black ties. No labels or tags. ca. 35 1/2" long w/out ties; 5" wide w/out fringe/pendants. e & f) Over-sleeves. Detachable sleeves formed as two 15 1/2" long fabric cylinders, slightly wider at top than cuff, which slide over sleeves of jacket. The cylinders are made of horizontal bands of different woven patterned fabrics of primarily pinks with green, white, and orange decorations, sewn together, with alternating bands of red cloth with applied rick-rack in blue, white, green, yellow, pink, etc., each with silver threading. Sleeves are lined with a printed white fabric with blue linear stripe/band designs. No labels or tags in garment. g) Bag of black cotton, embellished with embroidery, bead-work, silver discs, and a single coin. Long black cotton strap. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277094/
Hanbok
Korean Hanbok. A) Jeogori (Jacket) of white and red damask patterned with floral motifs. Short, cropped white damask top with deep V neckline lined in red damask. Long sleeves, widening towards fore-arm and then curved to wrist. Under-arm area and cuff of the red damask. Center front opening secured with one hidden snap and two long ties of red damask. Lined in thin white fabric. No labels in garment. B) Chima (Skirt) of red damask matching the Jeogori. Full-length, wrap-style garment. Thin white straps to go over shoulders support wide upper band into which the body of the skirt is gathered. Ties at back with ties of red damask. Lined in dark red fabric. No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277082/
Pumps
Pumps of pink, yellow, orange, and white plaid synthetic fabric. The shoes have rounded toes and a 2" high square chunky heel. On top of each shoe, across instep/vamp, are two self fabric covered martial cords twisted together with gold ends. Designer label: "Lily Shoes / Walk with Comfort" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115028/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of ivory leather and black patent leather. Made in the "spectator" style, the rounded toe-box, the 4" high blocky heel, and the lower part of the heel upper are of black patent leather, while the rest of the upper is of ivory leather. The black patent leather panels are decorated with white stitching along the edges. Lined in brown leather. Designer label: "Xavier Danaud / Paris" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B 2019" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87064/
Coat
Coat of brown and white felted wool. The garment is knee-length or longer, with long sleeves and a center front opening with 5 large circular plastic buttons. The main body of the coat is of pale brown and white check design, with cuffs, collar, and lower band of coat (about hips to hem) of solid light brown. The coat is lined in pale brown fabric, and has an accompanying light brown and white check belt. Designer's label at inside at center back of neckline: "Norell". A second sew-in handwritten label just above reads "Deborah 929" A hand-written note with the garment states that it is from "the last collection" The coat is part of an ensemble which includes an off-white wool jersey blouse, a brown wool skirt, and a brown leather belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30100/
Coat
Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots. Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France". This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076) Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30166/
Dress
Dress of bright green chiffon printed with multi-color shapes and with all-over scattered sequins and beading. The full-length A-line sheath has a round neckline with beaded band trim at neckline. The long sleeves have five non-functioning beaded buttons at wrist, and five hidden snap closures from wrist. The dress has an attached underdress of matte silk printed with same design as the overdress. The garment is fully lined with cream silk which has woven into it a repeated pattern of Hanae Mori's name. The underdress has a zipper closure at center back from neckline to above waist. The overdress has a series of hidden snaps to conceal the zipper, and a line of eight beaded buttons matching those on the sleeves, also non-functional. A single hook-and-loop closure at neck secures the top of the garment. The printed design includes circles, flowers, and fluid lines and triangles in shades of pink, yellow, blue, orange, and violet. The sequins are clear, and are secured with tiny colored beads, the colors of which match the color of the dress they are sewn over. Sewn inside dress at back at left of zipper is designer label: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30156/
Sling-Back Platform Pumps
Pair of sling-back platform pumps made of stripes of red, mustard yellow, green, and blue leather. Designed with a round toe, and thick platform sole, the open-toe shoes have a wide strap across instep to create vamp of shoe. Strap is of red, yellow, green, and blue leather, the stripes of which continue onto platform sole. Separate red leather sling-back strap wraps around ankle and fastens with a gold colored oval buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115016/
Dress
Dress of multi-colored velvets. The floor-length dress has an empire waist and bell-shaped long sleeves. The upper, bodice, section is made of a sheer, multi-colored fabric woven with bands of gold thread. Over the bodice is applied sections of burnout velvet in various colors, forming bands running up the bodice, over the shoulders, and down the back, another band forming a 1" high collar, and as 2" bands around each wrist. The sections are bordered in gold cording. The lower, skirt, section is of green velvet printed in browns, greens, and gold in an abstract geometric/organic design. Fully lined in green silk(?). Center back zipper from neckline to just above waist. Three hook-and-loop closures on collar. Designer label sewn alongside zipper at shoulder-blade height at right: "Ronald Amey / New York". Evidence of removed label at inside, center front of dress below neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30306/
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246" This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972. The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must look like the light shining through the stained glass windows of the Chapel." The ensemble has a matching pair of shoes by Roger Viver made of fabric in the same print. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30152/
Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts
Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt. First image shows: a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell". b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York". c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". The second image shows: a) Vest, described above. b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30187/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of aqua blue and white printed peau de soie silk. Shoe is designed with a gently pointed toe, and thick heel that tapers to base. Shoe upper is of white silk printed with pale blue abstract pattern. Designer's label stamped inside: "Roger Viver / Paris" Stamped inside: "sur mesure" Handwritten inside: "4170" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114940/
Pumps
Pair of cream pumps. Designed with rounded toe, the shoes are of a cream mesh with embroidered with floral motifs, giving a lace effect. The high heel is covered in cream satin, and tapers to base. Stamped inside: "Arsho for / Shoe Biz" Stamped on soles: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in Spain" and "7 1/2 B" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114763/
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
Bustier of a belly dancer's costume from the Banjara peoples of India. The bra-top of black cotton is embellished at front with silver coins and trimmed in multicolored cross stitch embroidery, mirror work, and Kangura patchwork appliqué. Plain black straps extend over shoulders and around back to tie. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277154/
Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of burnt ochre straw with burnt ochre grosgrain ribbon bow at back on brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Wide upward brim with alternating narrow bands of flat straw. Unlined with ochre grosgrain headband. Designer's label on inside headband: " An Original / by Dajon / New York" Size tag to left of designer's label: "22 1/2" Union label: "565660" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276973/
Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of gray straw with gray grosgrain ribbon bow edged with gray straw at back of high, upturned brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Unlined with gray grosgrain headband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Valerie / Modes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276978/
Coat
Sleeveless coat of navy on white zebra printed wool. The street-length coat is of slight A-line, widening to hem. It has wide straps, no collar, and center front opening with 5 circular dark blue plastic buttons. At each hip is a patch pocket with simulated flap, the fabric of the pockets chosen to match the placement on the print. The coat is fully lined in navy fabric. Inside neckline at back is designer's label "Givenchy", folded so that "Made In / France" is not visible. This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a blue wool jersey knit top and slacks. Donor noted that it was "Made for Monte Carlo for day wear". There is also a hat that was worn with the ensemble (1978.013.062) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30151/
Dress
Dinner dress of printed silk organza. The dress is composed of two parts. The caftan-like outer layer of the dress consists of a square silk organza cocoon printed in psychedelic motifs in purples, blues, pinks and chartreuse. It has a high rounded neckline with center back opening secured with six loops and covered buttons. There are applied flat cuffs at the wrist openings and waist-level slits at center front to accommodate the sash. There is a center front slit from hem to knee-level. The inner dress is a matching, full-length, sleeveless sheath in printed silk of the same design. It has a high rounded neckline with center back zipper closure from neck to hip with a single hook-and-eye closure at the neckline. The outer caftan and inner sheath are joined at the neckline. There is a printed silk organza sash of the same fabric that meets at center front and secures with two hook-and-eye closures and has self ties to disguise closure. The sash is swing tacked at the back. There is a center front slit from the hem to knee-level. Lime green silk panels are inset at sideseams, running from the underarm to the hem, and may be later additions to the garment. The dress is fully lined in green silk crepe. Designer's label located inside left center back, beside the zipper: Pierre Cardin / Paris New York". Retailer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Maisonette / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30265/
Dress
Dress of bright multi-color patterned chiffon. The full-length dress has a straight, loose shape, with a round neckline and long handkerchief-style sleeves which extend past hem. Zipper at center back, extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-eye closure at neckline. The printed pattern of the material includes concentric shapes with geometric and floral influences. Designer label sewn inside back to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30208/