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 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Calotte Hat
Calotte style of off white felt with two bands that over-cross twice. Narrow upturned brim. Crown is covered in brown net which goes under hat bands to become veil in front. Hatpins with triangular heads of matching felt attach veil to hat. Spray of brown coque feathers as trim on right. Red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Hatpin with white pearl head attached to designer's label on inside hatband. Unlined. Stamp on inside crown illegible. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Chandra" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114957/
Calotte Hat
Calotte hat embellished with black jet beads and sequins. Two double-looped jet bows in back. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Edna Earle / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39164/
Cape Coat Ensemble
Two-piece wool tweed cape/coat street ensemble. a) Cape coat of wool tweed in three shades of plum. Long, single-breasted coat with cape attached at shoulders. Four button closure with alternating bound buttonholes and supplemented with two hook & eyes. Two small double welt pockets on yoke and two larger double welt pockets at waistline. Coat dress portion is tailored at waistline with 3/4 length sleeves. Small turndown collar. Lined in rust brown colored silk faille. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / Original" b) Straight skirt of matching wool tweed. Unlined. Zipper closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283698/
Cloche Hat
Cloche-style hat of tan straw cloth with pear green velvet ribbon around crown and bows on back. Unlined with pear green grosgrain inner hatband. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Millinery Salon / Pfeifers / of Arkansas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114910/
Dress
Evening dress of silk crepe for summer. The full-length dress has an A-line skirt of cocoa brown silk crepe and attached belt with pendant strap at front left. The bodice is of cream silk crepe printed with a "trompe l'oeil" ribbon motif below the rounded neckline. Darts at sides. Long, bat-wing style tapered sleeves. Center-back snap closure. Unlined. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283732/
Hat
Hat of white straw. The low, domed crown is of finely woven white straw, encircled around the base with a wide band of red velvet ribbon, trimmed with gold braid along top edge. At the back, left side, the ribbon has an extended trailing end. At the front, the gold braid runs down the velvet ribbon in two strands, and crosses the brim to attach to a red velvet heart shape which is embellished with borders of pearls and braid, and a central heart shape made of gold bullion braid. The brim of the hat is of matching straw, curling slightly up at edge. Along the front half of the hat is a fine brown veiling. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Pfeifers / of Arkansas". A second label is sewn to the side of the retailer's label, with the initials "ADJ" within a rectangle, and the initials "[illeg]SC" below. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39168/
Hat
Hat of dark brown felt. Wired, rolled brim with one black and one light brown pom pom as trim. Hat has two wired triangular shaped extensions at left and right rim for securing hat to head as well as elastic band. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114857/
Hat
Hat of natural straw in boater style, with tiny brim and very shallow crown. Ochre velvet ribbon as trim around crown; wine colored small flowers on back where ribbon ends in bow; tan netting covers crown. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Irene / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband next to designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114829/
Jacket
Woman's jacket of purple wool with asymmetrical curved inset at right shoulder. Two bound slit pockets below shoulder. Center front closure with 3 buttons and bound buttonholes. Two slit pockets at hips with an asymmetrical inset over left pocket. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283694/
Skirt Suit
Navy daytime tailored two-piece suit in British Samek wool. a) Suit jacket of navy British Samek wool. Center front opening with three circular, blue plastic buttons; welted buttonholes button suit jacket. Padded shoulders. Two patch pockets. Notched collar with squared shoulder yoke with matching button attached to square insert. Lined in eggplant crepe. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" Tag above designer's label: "A. Herod, Sr." b) Slim straight skirt of navy British Samek wool. Folded waistband of same. Center back zipper with snap and 4 hook and eyes on waistband. Lined in navy blue silk. Tag on inside waistband: "A. Herod, Sr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283769/
Skirt Suit
Woman's suit of brown wool gabardine. a) Single breasted, jacket with rectangle motif carried throughout. Convertible collar with 3" points, and one under collar stop 2" from CF as shoulder yoke extends in a 2" wide rectangle parallel to collar edge. Shoulder yoke also extends to self-face the jacket, creating a 1"x 3" rectangle on the underside of the first bound button hold and button. There are 4 brown buttons with three narrow bound button holes, the second button falling at bottom of rectangle yoke as a inseam button. Pair of double welt slit pockets below shoulder within a rectangle of opposite grain within the larger rectangle in same grain as welt lips, with rectangle design lines extending over sleeve and top of it slip-stitched to mid-arm scythe. Two parallel princess seams starting from lower rectangle yoke and front under arm seam run under 8" over-sized pocket flap, narrow to define width of 4" slit pocket. Over-sized bias pocket flap is 8" x 4" with 1 1/2" x 7" vertically center rectangle insert of opposite bias grain both starting from side seam. Full length set in sleeves with one elbow dart at each under seam. At right sleeve's forearm starts a rectangle welt insert attached til 1 3/4" above cuff, where it floats above sleeve and continues as its own shape to cuff's edge and folds back 1" basted to itself. Lined in copper crepe silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in /British Samek Material" (b) A-line skirt of matching fabric. One inch folded waistband with triangular tab at lapped left side zipper with snap at tip and 4 sets of hook & eyes on waistband. Two 4" darts on front and two 7" darts on back. Unlined with pinked seam edges. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283765/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of blue/grey wool consisting of: A) Jacket of navy wool. Jacket has 3/4 sleeves, slash pockets with button trim and welt buttonhole; wide shoulders; nipped-in waist; intricate inset back detail; half belt crisscross in back with button and welt buttonhole. Lined in navy silk. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" (B) Skirt of same fabric. Mid-calf length; small back kick pleat at hem. Zipper closure. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283763/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black silk faille. The two-piece skirt consists of a jacket and skirt. The jacket is of mid-hip length, with shawl collar, long sleeves, and center-front opening which secures with three circular buttons covered with black faille and embroidered with a stylized "M" or Scorpio symbol. At upper front collarbone area are two applied strips of black faille which form "tabs", and there are similar sewn-in patches of same. Front hip pocket, and another "tab" on other hip. The skirt is street length, with similar patches and tabs. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283761/
Skirt Suit
Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe. a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille. Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material" (b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286814/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black English gabardine. a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk. Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus" b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286829/
Skirt Suit
Black, rust and brown herringbone wool suit. a) Coat of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons with cut tops. Long, set-in sleeves. Brown fur collar. Yoked shoulders and box pleats at left and right sides and two pleats down the back. Lined in taupe silk satin. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Skirt of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Below knee length; A-line. Left side zipper with 2 hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in rust colored silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330375/
Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of sling-back pumps of black calf leather. Shoes have a narrow platform and are open toe. Rounded throat on vamp, which is decorated with applied oval detailing in 3 layers. Center layer of black grosgrain, upper and lower layers of black leather. Oval cut-out in center of detail. Ankle-strap fastens with small rectangular black metal buckles. 3" black-lacquered French set-under heel similar to a spike form. Handwritten in side of each shoe: "6 1/2 B / r28514 / 1510-6BF" Stamped inside both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Capri / Last" Stamped in left shoe: "Palter DeLiso inc / New York City" Right shoe with inlaid woven cloth label: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114988/
Turban
Turban style hat of sienna taffeta striped with velvet. Pheasant feathers as trim on front. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "a Paris / Maud et Nano / 107 Faubourg St. Honore" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114874/
Hat
Hat of beige fur felt. The high, domed crown is of beige fur felt, wrapped by a wide silk satin ribbon woven in a plaid of olive green, orange, yellow, red, and tan. The ribbon extends for a significant distance off of the back of the hat to become streamers, and is held at the back of the crown by a circular conch of white shell. The brim is of the same fur felt, set off-center, with wider sections at front/right and shallower sections at back/left. All edges turn up, with a higher area at front/right. The hat is unlined, retaining much of the pelt on the underside of the brim and inside the base of the crown. Manufacturer's(?) marks inside crown, partly illegible. Intended for daytime wear, the hat is styled after the "Aussie" type hats worn by Australian troops during World War II. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39131/
Alpine Hat
Alpine hat of dark green felt hat. Brim slightly turned up. Hatband of lighter green yarn with feather brush on one side with metal bird on handle. One metal hat pin with a stag and doe and a black and red emblem in top right corner. Unlined with leather inner headband. Labels inside crown: "Ludwig Zapf hutmacher Werfen" and "Lanz Salzburg". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39092/
Breton Hat
Hat in modified breton style of green felt. Wide, flat crown with upturned brim that flattens at side with wide, dark green grosgrain ribbon bow. Black veil and second large, dark green grosgrain ribbon bow which hangs off bottom of brim at back. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with dark green grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Ruby Ross / 6 East 53rd St. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39085/
Calotte
Hat of purple felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat consists of a domed crown of purple felt, which extends down on the right side. Tied horizontally around the front of the crown is a wide band of purple taffeta, which passes through slits on the sides of the crown, and emerges towards the back of the right side, tied to become a large "pouf". The hat is lined in purple satin. Maker's label sewn into lining of hat: "Edna Mye / Dallas". The hat is accompanied by two short hatpins, the heads covered with purple felt that matches the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39184/
Calotte
Calotte of off-white satin. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low domed crown is covered with smooth off-white satin at front, ending in scalloped edges along front and sides with thin self piped edge with loops at upper points of the scallops; at rear, the hat has the same off-white satin folded, draped, and pleated, with a straight edge along the base. Interior of hat partly lined at front with an off-white damask/brocade fabric, the rest showing the net under-structure of the hat. Accompanied by two hatpins with oval heads covered with matching off-white satin. Maker's label inside: "Edna Mye / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286930/
Cloche
Hat of cotton batik. Styled as a cloche-form turban, the domed crown is constructed of gathered/pleated and wrapped cotton fabric with batik design in beige/brown and blue on white ground. There is no brim. The hat is lined in cream satin, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39089/
Cloche
Hat of black velvet styled as a cloche. Domed crown with some seaming and "wrinkles" has very small brim of same fabric, with black velvet bow at back as trim. Lined in cream fabric. Retailer's label inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39078/
Fez
Fez-style hat of red felt. The cylindrical crown has a flat top into which the sides are pleated to form a rosette with a central circle from which extends the black cord tassel. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39087/
Hat
Hat of black fur felt. Wide crown covered with net printed with gold flowers and leaves. Wide black velvet ribbon as hatband with bow as trim. Narrow brim. Stamp on inside crown: "Turin / Genuine Fur Felt / Finest Quality Veld(?) / Made in Italy" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Sanger's / Dallas" Manufacturer's label to right of retailer's label: "Cedar Crest / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114916/
Hat
Hat made of white stitched, quilted cotton. Crownless. Hat constructed of circular piece with tucks at left and right back. Interior wire support covered with matching grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286927/
Hat
Hat of tan/light brown felt. The hat is somewhat in the style of a cloche, with an irregular "partly delfated" crown. At front is a small section of brim which turns up and extends vertically. At back of hat is a small vertical band of same material, with pointed ends. Designer's label inside: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39093/
Hat
Hat of red straw. Styled with aspects of both a cloche and a bonnet, the hat has a domed crown of red straw that is partly encircled at the base by a band of red velvet to which is affixed sprays of artificial flowers (Roses, violets?, and others), cherries, and leaves. The narrow brim turns down around front and sides, and is cut short in back. Around sides and front is green mesh veiling. Hat is unlined, with red grosgrain inner hatband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114792/
Hat
Headband covered with light blue feathers sprinkled with white rhinestones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114912/
Hat
Hat of black seal fur. Hat is brimless with short, flat crown. Round piece embroidered with black cording and decorated with tassels attached to back of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39086/
Hat
Hat of black felt with wide brim that curls up in front to reveal black fur as trim. Wide, low crown. Black grosgrain ribbons at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label on inner headband: "Mathias" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39077/
Skirt Suit
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. Excellent example of chiaroscuro work. A) Jacket with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures. A band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Frost Bros. / San Antonio". B) Straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283717/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of navy wool with white pinstripes consisting of: A) Jacket of navy and white pinstripe wool. Double breasted with 4 circular navy blue buttons and covered buttonholes. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Padded shoulders. Horizontal, double welt pockets covered with flap at front left and right. Lined in navy silk. Designer's label at back neckline: "Hattie Carnegie" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label at right inside seam. b) White crepe blouse - not shown in photographs. c) Skirt of navy wool. Slight A-line. Street length. Unlined. Label at hem: "Spring 1946 / Hattie Carnegie / Size 10" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283666/
Skirt Suit
Brown gabardine suit. a) Suit jacket of brown gaberdine. Long sleeves. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons and bound buttonholes. Two faux flap pockets at yoke with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. Two lower hacking pockets with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. V-shaped yoke on back. Lined in rust colored silk. No designer's label. Retailer's label on inside center back neckline: "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia" b)Skirt of brown gaberdine. A-lined shape with left side zipper. Kick pleat at center front seam. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286857/
Suit
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30093/
Turban
Turban style hat made of folds of black velvet. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Union / size label on inside headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39083/
Wedding Dress
Wedding gown of ivory rayon satin with sweetheart neckline trimmed in a band of crimped rayon surrounded with pearl beads; fabric is gathered into seams below bust; long Juliet sleeves taper to wrist and have pointed end with satin button closure; pointed waistline with full-length skirt gathered into piped waistline; long train. Accompanied by a beaded crown or circlet of white beaded flowers, and a veil of fine white tulle with half circle headband at crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283759/
Beret
Beret style hat of ochre colored chenille yarn. Retailer's label on inside crown: " Alexander & Oviatt / Los Angeles" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86978/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of black straw cloth. White fabric rosebuds and daisies with green leaves form headband as trim over small brim in front. Edge of hat trimmed in black velvet. Black veil gathers to velvet ribbons on ends to form tie for securing hat to head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114970/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of maroon straw trimmed with grosgrain ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114737/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of navy blue wool felt. Right side extends with a strip of felt curling downward then upward to a point trimmed with a strand of pears, gold leaves, and blue/green bugle beads. Unlined with a blue grosgrain hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Ginette Robert / de Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114958/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of shiny green straw with downward brim. Red and green feather trim. Rose veil with small chenille dots. Designer's label: "Ginette Robert / de Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39196/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet with black net veil in front. Lined in green fabric. Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Debutante" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277045/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of brown felt. Domed crown. Two bands of matching felt circle edge of hat and tie to form a large knot on the right. Tie ends stand away from hat. Unlined with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Retailer's label: "Gus Mayer / Co. Ltd." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39082/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of natural colored straw. Brim is wider in front than on back. Trimmed with hatband of wide, black grosgrain ribbon that forms bow in back. Edge of brim trimmed in black grosgrain. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label number 852534 to left of retailer's label on inside hatband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114902/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of brown straw. Wide brimmed with open crown. Two accordion folded, brown grosgrain pieces of trim with trailing tail as decoration. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label attached to retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114901/
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. The accompanying straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". This garment reflects Adrian's celebration of the lifting of wartime restrictions on types and quantities of materials and trimmings that could be used in making clothes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30229/
Evening Dress
Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283753/