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 Country: France
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1990/1999
Creator: Mugler, Thierry
Description: Skirt ensemble of royal blue polyester, cut on bias, consisting of: Jacket. Waisted jacket with 3/4 length sleeves, partly cut-away in front, fastened by 3 snaps, each covered with a plastic button, in graduated sizes (smallest at top). Asymmetrical collar; notched on left, shawl on right. Inset pocket on each side with curving top edge. Cuffs have "winged" turn-backs. Sleeves sewn to create edge along top of arm from cuffs to collar. Center back seamed same as sleeves. Lined in royal blue synthetic; shoulder pads. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Thierry Mugler / Paris / Made in France" Size "42" tag at base of designer label. Evidence of removed label. Straight skirt of matching material with 2" waistband. Just below knee-length, with closure at back consisting of 3 large hooks and loops with studs at front and 8" zipper. Vented kick opening at center back seam. Unlined. Designer's label at left back hip: "Thierry Mugler / Paris / Made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunburst Dress

Sunburst Dress

Date: 1990
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Black "sunburst" evening dress with bustle. The fitted, full-length sheath is of black silk satin with black velvet "sunburst" motif repeated over the dress. The gown is strapless, with diagonally draped over-panels that meet at center front and form a large bow which tilts up to cover the left shoulder. There is a zipper closure along the left sideseam with hook-and-eye closure at neckline which is concealed by the bust panel, which is snapped to the dress and bow. The back waistline seam has a three-tiered ruffled bustle which has a snap at left side to accommodate the zipper. The skirt flares from knee to hemline. There is a boned black silk inner bodice with bust pads and bust and waist stays. The inner bodice has a zipper closure at left side, just inside the outer zipper. Designer's label inside garment, stitched over right side bone: "Givenchy / Made In / France". Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows the gown as displayed with a hat by Balenciaga (Accession #: 1981.022.026).
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1989
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de
Description: Coat of intricate patchwork of Prince of Wales wool plaid, wool hounds tooth, wool petit point, all-over embroidered with pewter metallic floral vines. Knee length. Simulated double breasted, off-center opening with hidden placket button closure; notched collar. Long sleeves with 6 functioning button closure at wrists. Two flap pockets with welts at each front hip with lapels; pockets not open. Knee-length. Fan pleating at back. Fully lined in gray silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Givenchy / Haute Couture"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mugler, Thierry
Description: Skirt suit of purple worsted wool. A) Jacket has collar with long lapel with geometric cut edge; geometric cuts along hem line; double breasted snap closure with 2 purple faux buttons at front; princess seams; long sleeves with vents at the wrists, and inner shoulder pads; hits at hips. B) Skirt with two vents at front hemline; center-back zip and hook and eye closure; 19 ½” length. Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1985~
Creator: Givenchy
Description: Coat of rust colored suede trimmed at cuffs, neck, center front opening and hem with cocoa colored fox fur. Thigh-length. No closure. Side slit pockets. Rust-colored quilted lining; heavily padded shoulders. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Givenchy" Handwritten style number label under designer label: "75288"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1985?
Creator: Lagerfeld, Karl
Description: Pumps of black alligator. The shoes have a rounded toe, and 3" high heel. Lined in taupe leather. Designer's label stamped inside: "Chanel" and "Made in Italy"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1985
Creator: Lagerfeld, Karl
Description: Slingback pumps of red satin with gold metallic leather at pointed toe. The shoes have a 3" high square spike heel, and are lined in gold metallic leather. Back straps has square, textured gold-colored metal buckle on outside of foot. Designer label: "Chanel / Made in Italy"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1985~
Creator: Mugler, Thierry
Description: Skirt suit. A) Jacket of ivory wool with shirt collar with long, wide lapel that is rolled around toward the front and held in place by 2 gold coiled ornaments, one on each side; single snap closure at center-front with gold S-shaped ornament over; jacket is fitted at waist with two crescent seams; long sleeves with inner shoulder pads; two diagonal pockets at hips with lapels; lower hip length; lined in soft white synthetic. B) Pencil skirt of black wool with 4 panels and 1” waistband with diagonal snap closure at left back side; left back zip closure; 6” slit at front right; 24” length; lined in black synthetic. Size 38 Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Evening dress of blue silk gazar. The full-length dress has a fitted bodice simulating a wrap style, with V neckline, and long straight sleeves with 5 fabric buttons at each wrist. The skirt has an asymmetrical peplum with an inverted opening in front that is equal to the floor length A-line skirt, giving the effect of an over-skirt pulled back to reveal an underskirt. At back is a zipper closure from neckline to below hips, with a series of snaps at the top of the peplum. The dress has an accompanying leather belt covered with the same blue silk gazar.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1980
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Jacket

Jacket

Date: 1980~
Creator: Ungaro, Emanuel
Description: Jacket of black, green, red, pink, and yellow flannel in a large, painterly plaid pattern. The jacket is just below hip-length, and has a round neckline and no collar. Center front closure has a zipper with a gold metal rose charm pull, matching the pulls of the zippers on the two diagonal slit pockets at hips. Long-sleeved, with three non-functional buttons at wrists, formed as coiled snakes/spirals of gold metal. The jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black satin. Designer's label: "Ungaro / Parallele / Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Jacket

Jacket

Date: 1980
Creator: House of Dior
Description: Jacket of off-white linen. Fitted, waist length jacket with wide, notched collar and long sleeves with 3" cuffs and two white, circular buttons and barred buttonholes. Two patch pockets at bust line. Unlined. Combined designer's/retailer's label: "Christian Dior / for / Lou Lattimore, Inc. / Paris New York" Care label to right of designer's label. Lot/size tag at right underarm (faded): "Lot / Size 10" With tie belt for jacket of same fabric; 1" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
D'Orsay Pumps

D'Orsay Pumps

Date: 1980~
Creator: Jourdan, Charles
Description: Pair of D'Orsay pumps of gray leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, and cut-away sides. Toebox has a deep "v" cut at throat of instep, edged with red as is the platform of the shoe. From the point of the cut extends back a t-strap which fastens around the ankle of wearer with a small buckle. 3 1/2" high stiletto heel covered with same gray leather. Stamped inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France" Accompanied by original Charles Jourdan shoebox.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Platform Pumps

Platform Pumps

Date: 1980
Creator: Saint Laurent, Yves
Description: Pair of platform pumps. Shoes are of brown patent leather, with white top stitching. Pointed toes, and a 4" block set-back heel. Stamped in each shoe: "107 N 7"; "Yves Saint Laurent / Paris". Stamped on soles: "Made / Vero / Cuoio / Italy / AA / 7"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: Charles Jourdan (House of)
Description: Pair of speckled taupe leather pumps. Uppers of light taupe leather embellished with tiny grayish flat pebbled textural design. Toe cap of black patent leather. 3 3/4" spike heel covered in black patent leather. Lined in olive leather except inner heel, which is lined in natural light brown leather. Soles of black leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France". Stamped inside each heel: "37 X 7 2A 586855 NF". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: House of Chanel
Description: Pair of tan and black leather sling-back pumps. Uppers of tan/brown leather with black leather toe cap. Sling-back strap with gilt metal buckle. 2 3/4" continental heel covered in tan/brown leather. Shoe lined in putty colored leather. Sole of natural brown leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Made in France"; Chanel / [logo]". Stamped inside upper: "105002 37". Stamped on sole: "37 / DE / [logo] / Coupe monte fini main".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1980~
Creator: Mulger, Thierry
Description: Skirt suit. A) Jacket of fuchsia flat weave wool with ring collar and zip-front closure; long raglan sleeves with inner shoulder pads; circular geometrical stitched panels at front and back; two circular patch pockets at hips; crescent princess seams; fitted at waist; peplum at back with reverse box pleat and attached belt of self-wool with metal buckle above; lower hip length; partially lined in magenta synthetic. B) Skirt of black stretch wool with 2” waistband with diagonal snap closure; darts at front and back; center-back zip closure; 18 ½” length. Size 38 Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: Cardin, Pierre
Description: Suit of cream silk gaberdine(?) consisting of: A) Jacket. Hip-length; box style. Bermuda collar and yoke which covers jacket front top, makes into epaulet-like treatment at shoulder, and sailor-like collar in back; geometrically shaped with white snaps at corners. Center front of jacket fastens all the way down with white snaps. Full-length dolman sleeves. Back has center seam and two darts which start 2 1/2 inches under yoke and extend to waist. Fully lined in white synthetic fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris / Made in France" B. Skirt of matching fabric. Slightly gathered into 1"waistband. Street length; slightly A-lined. Center back fastens with hook, snap and zipper. Fully lined in white synthetic fabric.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Skirt

Ensemble - Dress and Skirt

Date: 1979~
Creator: Guibourgé, Philippe
Description: Dress ensemble of red lace with dark brown and metallic gold embroidery in floral design. A) Dress. Calf length with rolled collar. Four-snap closure down center front. Elastic waistline. Long straight sleeves with band cuffs and snap closure. Scalloped hem. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Miss Dior / Made in France" B) Skirt of red silk. Straight with 1" waistband. Center back closure of covered hook & eye on waistband and 2 snaps. Evidence of four removed darts. C) Belt of self-covered leather; 2" wide. Gold circle buckle with two hooks and three pairs of grommets for closure.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1979/1980
Creator: Bohan, Marc
Description: Suit of black wool consisting of: Jacket of almost hip-length, with no collar; double breasted, with V neckline and 4 buttons center front, in rows of two. Two flap pockets front; two bust darts; Long sleeves with single button cuffs. Built-in shoulder pads, and fully lined. Designer's label at inside back neck: "Christian Dior / The Suit / Paris New York" Care label below Designer's label: "Dry Clean / Made in U.S.A." Content label at side seam: "100% / Pure Wool"; "Professionally / Dry Clean / Low Moisture / Steam Press" Skirt. Calf length, with narrow waistband. Knife pleated, with side zipper and button. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1978
Creator: Bohan, Marc
Description: Dress of black cotton net embroidered with red, white, tan, brown, green and gold floral designs. Gathered scooped neckline interlaced with narrow, pale green silk grosgrain ribbon and scalloped and embroidered organdy ruffling, which is also used at wrist, waist, hip line and hem. Gathered ankle-length skirt. Left side zipper with hook & eye on lining and snaps on outer net layer. Skirt has additional under layer of black net. Bodice and skirt lined with silk chiffon; black grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye at waist. Designer's label at center back waist: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made In France / Printemps-Ete 1978" and stamped "0I0052" Label attached at base of designer's label: "Made In France" Neiman Marcus size and content label attached at bottom of previous two labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Date: 1978
Creator: Bohan, Marc
Description: Two-piece ensemble of black satin. Blouse of wrap style, with surplice neckline squared at across back and front to collar bones, plunging into a V at front, and with long sleeves. Neckline, hem, and sleeves edged in 2" wide band of trapunto quilting work consisting of 6 rows of stitching. Long sleeves have 3" zippers at cuffs. 1-inch wide attached belt ties in back. Unlined. No labels in bodice. Matching skirt. Black, below-knee length, with narrow waistband into which skirt is gathered. Left side zipper, with hooks and eyes at waistband. Unlined. Inside Label, typewritten on cloth tape: " JUPE 43 011020 NEIMAN MARCUS" or possibly "JUPE 43 OTTO 20 NEIMAN MARCUS"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Choker

Choker

Date: 1977
Creator: Ungaro, Emanuel
Description: Choker of satin and feathers. Neck band of 1 1/2" double faced black satin ribbon with double hooks at ends. At center is rosette of hackle and guinea feathers in black, brownish, and white spots. Tag sewn to one end of ribbon stating "Made in France", Style/model "Uo 28", color "Black, and other notes that are illegible. Made to go with an evening dress by Ungaro.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Lounging Dress

Lounging Dress

Date: 1977/1985
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Lounging dress of coral and black nylon knit with purple and white floral pattern. Full-length, with slightly over-long sleeves with elastic at cuffs to create "blousing" effect. V-shaped neckline, and wide, "ribbed" elastic waistband. Center back closure of self-covered button and loop. Unlined. Designer's label at back neckline: "Hanae Mori / Tokyo New York" Fabric has "Hanae Mori" signature in print of fabric. Content/care/size label at back neckline. Content/care label in Japanese at left side seam near hem. With thin cord tie-belt of matching fabric.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design