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Texas Fashion Collection
- Ensemble - Nubian Traditional Ensemble
A) Jirjara robe (Nubian-style young woman's galabeyah) of sheer black machine-made lace with scattered "tendrils" of various sized dots all-over which extend from hem upwards. Full-length, with rounded neckline and slight "V" at front. Full-length sleeves flaring to wrist.
B) Under-dress of white cotton embroidered with ancient Egyptian-inspired motifs, including lotus blossoms. Full-length, with rounded neckline with small "V" at front. Neckline edged with green embroidery. Short sleeves edged with similar green embroidery, as are the short slits from the hem upwards. "Bib" at front of upper part of dress with green, yellow, blue, red, and pink embroidery of stylized lotus, scrolls, border lines, etc. Front of skirt with large embroidered motif of lotus(?) growing from bowl, with other blossoms around, in same colors. Back is plain. Unlined.
C) Head scarf of very fine black fabric. Triangular in shape, with edging of simulated gold-colored coins.
With suite of costume jewelery of gold-colored metal hung with faux coins, consisting of:
1) Necklace. Simple gold chain suspending triangular "net" of gold quaterfoil-shaped links hung with tiers of faux coins. Simple hook fastener. "Cascade" style.
2) Headpiece (?). Formed of two linked triangles of net with 6-lobed openwork links, hung with tiers of faux coins. At center point is large heart-shaped pendant hung with fringe of coins on short beaded strands.
3) Earrings. Pair. Simple hook suspends horizontal bar from which hangs a triangular "cascade" of tiers of faux gold coins hung on a net of quatrefoil-shaped links.
4) Bracelet. Cuff-style openwork wire bracelet with fringe of tiny spherical bells.
5) Bracelet. Cuff-style bracelet of openwork metal hung with a triangular "cascade" of tiers of faux gold coins hung on a net of quatrefoil-shaped links. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277151/
- Festival Attire - Akha Hill Tribe
Festival ensemble, Akha Hill Tribe, Thailand.
a) Jacket/bodice. Jacket or bodice of black cotton, waist-length, with no collar, shaped neckline, and front opening with no closures. On right side of bodice at upper breast/collarbone is applied panel/section which forms edge of opening. Panel has "zig-zag" effect of three points created by patchwork of various printed fabrics and applied thin bands. Long sleeves with blue fabric sewn at ends to create cuffs. At back, "hanging" from collar is patchwork panel of patterned cloths shaped as a trapezoid with curved long side. Primarily lined in blue cloth with white geometric/linear designs, part of embroidery panel at front lined with a printed brown fabric with small black/yellow geometric design. (zig-zag panel at front)
b) Pants. Pants of black cotton embellished with multicolored embroidery. Full-length depending on height of wearer. Wide plain waistband in front, elasticized section at back, and with attached string belt at side which has pom-pom terminals. At front, from waistband, are two "flaps" over upper legs, one forming a pocket with wide decorative band at top consisting of red strips of fabric on dark blue fabric band. The second flap has wide horizontal band of embroidered fabric, with bands of diamonds, squares, "x" shapes, etc. in yellow, blue, white, black, etc. on primarily orange ground. Cuffs of pants, at outer side of each leg, has rectangular applied panels of cross-stitch embroidered fabric in reddish, white, and mustard, with applied machine-woven decorative ribbon with pink squares and blue shapes. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment.
c) Hat. Black with beading and silver and shells, with red decorations and pendant parts
d) Belt. Black cotton(?) belt formed as a rectangle, upper and side edges straight, lower edge gently scalloped to form points at center front and at sides. Belt is edged with border of small blue/green, brownish/tan seeds, with two horizontal bands of same seeds running across belt. Between bands of seeds are bands of silver-colored cabochon discs. Just above each point is a star-burst made of oval white beads/seeds, colored beads, and a cowrie(?) shell. From each point hangs 3 beaded pendants with a bell at end of each. Belt secures with black ties. No labels or tags. ca. 35 1/2" long w/out ties; 5" wide w/out fringe/pendants.
e & f) Over-sleeves. Detachable sleeves formed as two 15 1/2" long fabric cylinders, slightly wider at top than cuff, which slide over sleeves of jacket. The cylinders are made of horizontal bands of different woven patterned fabrics of primarily pinks with green, white, and orange decorations, sewn together, with alternating bands of red cloth with applied rick-rack in blue, white, green, yellow, pink, etc., each with silver threading. Sleeves are lined with a printed white fabric with blue linear stripe/band designs. No labels or tags in garment.
g) Bag of black cotton, embellished with embroidery, bead-work, silver discs, and a single coin. Long black cotton strap. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277094/
A) Jeogori (Jacket) of white and red damask patterned with floral motifs. Short, cropped white damask top with deep V neckline lined in red damask. Long sleeves, widening towards fore-arm and then curved to wrist. Under-arm area and cuff of the red damask. Center front opening secured with one hidden snap and two long ties of red damask. Lined in thin white fabric.
No labels in garment.
B) Chima (Skirt) of red damask matching the Jeogori. Full-length, wrap-style garment. Thin white straps to go over shoulders support wide upper band into which the body of the skirt is gathered. Ties at back with ties of red damask. Lined in dark red fabric.
No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277082/
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286826/
- Necklace - Rabari Festival Attire
Necklace. "Bib" style necklace with 4-strand black yarn necklace with silver slide at back. Front bib of silver beads mounted in vertical bands into a "fan" form, from which hang a fringe of 11 polished cowrie(?) shells, with a further fringe of pendant chains and spheres hanging from each shell. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461823/
- Necklace - Turkmenistan Festival Outfit
Necklace. Green cloth necklace, edged with black cloth tape and embellished with spaced stamped silver roundels. Button/buttonhole clasp. The necklace supports a massive silver pendant formed as a large triangle set with oval red glass cabochons, between two silver "club" shapes. Below the triangle and clubs is a horizontal silver square tube set with oval red cabochons, below which are four large inverted stylized "fleur-dis-lys" forms, set with oval cabochons. From all lower parts hang long chains and large bells. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461847/
- Necklace - Turkmenistan Festival Outfit
Necklace. Bead necklace of red and blue glass(?) beads strung on white cord. From necklace, via 3 large loops, is suspended a large horizontal silver-colored tube, with bands of flattened/soldered wire decoration. From lower edge of tube hang pendants of flat silver shapes, some small rectangular, some larger "bird shaped", each set with a red or green stone. From these pendants hand further chains and oval plaques. Tube opens at one end, is empty. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461802/
- Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Necklace of openwork beading. Wide straps with diamond shapes of yellow/orange with inner sections of blues and yellows against grounds of green, red, blue, and orange. Large central section formed as a white beaded diamond shape containing concentric diamonds of green and red. Blue beaded fringe at bottom ending in red and white "flowerheads" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461844/
- Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Bead Necklace. "Bib" style, with wide main portion of latticed clear beads overlaid with a field of shell/mother of pearl buttons. Vertical strands of beads along top, attaching to choker band with button clasp. The bib has a lower band of white, black, etc. openwork beading, then strands of beaded fringe in clear, green, yellow, blue, black, red, etc. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461881/
- Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Bead Necklace. "choker" style bead necklace composed of sections of orange and black horizontal strands interspersed with diamond-shaped motifs of white, orange, green, yellow, and reddish brown. Below the main section is a "fringe, consisting of white beads forming a narrow net, then bands of red and orange, then fringe of blue, yellow, black, white, red, green, and ending in shells, glass beads, etc. Large circular button clasp. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461789/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black jersey. The cylindrical crown has a flat, slightly recessed top, and bands of black silk ribbon decoration applied horizontally around sides. Upper and lower bands are of plain layered ribbon forming slightly molded bands, while central band is of twisted/folded/worked ribbon creating a dimensional braided pattern. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband and a single small faux turtle shell comb to help secure it to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305376/
Pair of pumps of pale gray/green satin. Plain uppers with applied oval panel of multicolored floral brocade simulating embroidery at vamp, within a metal twist/rope frame, as a decorative buckle. Low modified Louis heel covered in same fabric.
Brand stamp: "Pietro / Last"
Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "7B 4872 / 699320A" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114964/
Pumps of pink, yellow, orange, and white plaid synthetic fabric. The shoes have rounded toes and a 2" high square chunky heel. On top of each shoe, across instep/vamp, are two self fabric covered martial cords twisted together with gold ends.
Designer label: "Lily Shoes / Walk with Comfort" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115028/
Purse of brown and tan woven burlap-type fabric and brown leather. Rectangular, with rounded bottom and edges. Sides of fabric, end panels of leather, with leather handles and trim with brass hardware. Closure is a 1" inch leather strap with "door knocker" type fixture with a turn key closure. One zippered pocket interior center creates three distinct compartments.
Designer's stamp on interior zippered pocket: "Etienne Aigner / Hand Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330482/
Pair of shoes of ivory leather and black patent leather. Made in the "spectator" style, the rounded toe-box, the 4" high blocky heel, and the lower part of the heel upper are of black patent leather, while the rest of the upper is of ivory leather. The black patent leather panels are decorated with white stitching along the edges. Lined in brown leather.
Designer label: "Xavier Danaud / Paris"
Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B 2019" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87064/
- Shoes - Egyptian Traditional Ensemble
Shoes. Slip-on, low-heeled, open back slippers of red leather. Toe-box decorated with Egyptian motifs, including lotus flowers and a "Nefertiti" head. Lined in read leather. Black rubber soles. Note: mis-matched pair. Both are left shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461851/
Pair of heeled pumps of brown silk. Designed with slightly pointed toe and platform, the instep is crossed by a gold chain with squared links which extends back along outside of foot to near heel. Heel covered with same fabric, tapering slightly to base.
Designer's label: "Roger Vivier / Paris"
These shoes were made to match a dress by Givenchy. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114950/
- Box Jacket
Box jacket of ivory wool. Bracelet length, raglan sleeves. Convertible collar. Single breasted with three cream colored plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes. Top stitching on seams. Sleeves lined in cream colored silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Automne-Hiver 1973 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped 02766
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499065/
Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots.
Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France".
This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076)
Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30166/
Dress of bright green chiffon printed with multi-color shapes and with all-over scattered sequins and beading. The full-length A-line sheath has a round neckline with beaded band trim at neckline. The long sleeves have five non-functioning beaded buttons at wrist, and five hidden snap closures from wrist. The dress has an attached underdress of matte silk printed with same design as the overdress. The garment is fully lined with cream silk which has woven into it a repeated pattern of Hanae Mori's name. The underdress has a zipper closure at center back from neckline to above waist. The overdress has a series of hidden snaps to conceal the zipper, and a line of eight beaded buttons matching those on the sleeves, also non-functional. A single hook-and-loop closure at neck secures the top of the garment. The printed design includes circles, flowers, and fluid lines and triangles in shades of pink, yellow, blue, orange, and violet. The sequins are clear, and are secured with tiny colored beads, the colors of which match the color of the dress they are sewn over.
Sewn inside dress at back at left of zipper is designer label: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30156/
A) Black double knit dress with tucked pleats at the neckline. Center back zipper closure. Bodice lined in black, sleeves and skirt unlined.
B) Black leather belt with silver colored metal buckle.
No labels found in dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499042/
Clutch handbag of patent leather in small oval shape. Gold tone closure of three rings in bamboo pattern. Tuckable gold herringbone chain; 1/4" strap 30"long. Three interior compartments with black faille lining; 2 inner pocket, 1 with gold faille lining.
Designer's stamp: "M M / Morris Moskowitz"
Original maker's card in small black compartment; side 1: "M M / Morris Moskowitz"; side 2: This / Handbag is Made / Of Man Made / Materials"
22cm L, 16cm H (with closure), 3cm W digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330505/
- Sling-Back Platform Pumps
Pair of sling-back platform pumps made of stripes of red, mustard yellow, green, and blue leather. Designed with a round toe, and thick platform sole, the open-toe shoes have a wide strap across instep to create vamp of shoe. Strap is of red, yellow, green, and blue leather, the stripes of which continue onto platform sole. Separate red leather sling-back strap wraps around ankle and fastens with a gold colored oval buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115016/
Dress of multi-colored velvets. The floor-length dress has an empire waist and bell-shaped long sleeves. The upper, bodice, section is made of a sheer, multi-colored fabric woven with bands of gold thread. Over the bodice is applied sections of burnout velvet in various colors, forming bands running up the bodice, over the shoulders, and down the back, another band forming a 1" high collar, and as 2" bands around each wrist. The sections are bordered in gold cording. The lower, skirt, section is of green velvet printed in browns, greens, and gold in an abstract geometric/organic design. Fully lined in green silk(?). Center back zipper from neckline to just above waist. Three hook-and-loop closures on collar.
Designer label sewn alongside zipper at shoulder-blade height at right: "Ronald Amey / New York". Evidence of removed label at inside, center front of dress below neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30306/
- Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246"
This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972.
The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must look like the light shining through the stained glass windows of the Chapel."
The ensemble has a matching pair of shoes by Roger Viver made of fabric in the same print. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30152/
- Ensemble - Coat, Blouse, and Skirt
A) Coat of brown and white felted wool. Knee-length or longer, long set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 5 large circular brown plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Main body of coat of pale brown and white check design, with cuffs, collar, and lower band of coat (about hips to hem) of light brown. Light brown and white check self tie belt. Side slit pockets. Lined in pale taupe.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell"
Hand-written label just above designer's label: "Deborah 929"
B) Blouse of cream wool jersey. Long sleeves, high standing collar. Center back zipper closure running almost entire length of garment, from top of collar to about 3" above hem. Hook & eye at top of collar. Collar lined in satin, the rest of the blouse is unlined. Not hemmed.
Hand-written label sewn in at neckline: "Deborah 929"
C) Skirt of brown wool tweed. Mid-length; slight A-line. Narrow, 1-1/2" waistband. Fully lined in brown silk(?). Center back zipper closure with large hook & eye on waistband.
Hand-written label "Deborah 1929".
D) Belt of brown leather with wide square, self-covered buckle. Two inches wide. Belt is attached to skirt with inner bands of leather to which loops from the skirt are sewn.
Stamped on reverse: "26 Norman Norell 3736". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330450/
- Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts
Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt.
First image shows:
a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell".
b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York".
c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York".
The second image shows:
a) Vest, described above.
b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York".
Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30187/
Hat of brown felt. Designed somewhat like a cloche, the domed crown is encircled at the base by a folded-over band of brown grosgrain ribbon tied at side, with a "pouf" of white, green, black and taupe feather. Fairly narrow brim, which is folded over and sewn down at edge, is turned up at front and left, down at right and back. The hat is unlined, with a dark brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Don Kline" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87073/
- Pants Ensemble
A) Jacket in box style of gray and cream plaid mohair. Short jacket with long, set-in sleeves and shawl collar. Two patch pockets at breasts. Center front opening with four large circular gray pearl plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Fully lined with gray polyester(?).
Designer's label inside below back collar: "Normal Norell / New York"
Model number tags, handwritten on ribbon, 2 of them, stitched above and below designer's label: "Deborah / 818"
Another sample tag sewn to outside of coat under left arm: "#53 / Debrah"
B) Blouse of cream jersey knit. Long sleeves and high, mock turtleneck. Zipper closure at back, almost full length, with hook-and-eye closure at top. Neck lined in cream silk. Hemline is unfinished.
Sewn inside at collar is hand-written style tag: "Deborah / 818"
Sewn to outside of front, at hem, are style tag, handwritten on ribbon: "Deborah", with small sample of gray knit sewn just below.
C) Pants in harlow style of heather gray wool knit. Full-length; wide legs. Wide,2-2/2" waistband; two slit pockets at side seams. Center back zipper with hook & eye at top of waistband. Lined in gray silk; only attached by single threads at legs.
Sewn inside waistband is cloth tape with hand-written style tag: "Deborah / 818", and attached just above tag is a small sample of the fabric of the blouse. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498995/
Pair of pumps of aqua blue and white printed peau de soie silk. Shoe is designed with a gently pointed toe, and thick heel that tapers to base. Shoe upper is of white silk printed with pale blue abstract pattern.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Roger Viver / Paris"
Stamped inside: "sur mesure"
Handwritten inside: "4170" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114940/
- Wedding Dress
Wedding dress of purple calico. Full length, with slight ruffled standing collar, long sleeves with elastic cuffs, tucked bodice, gathered skirt with ruffle at waistline. Inside hem with thin band of purple lace. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30315/
a) Jacket of beige bias cut wool gaberdine. Double breasted with 6 basket weave covered fabric buttons and bound buttonholes; two interior black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Waist length, straight sides. Notched collar. Bracelet length sleeves with two functioning, matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Flap pockets at sides. Collar, front opening, sleeve hems and pocket flaps trimmed in black. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at left front opening: "Rich's / Specialty Shop"
b) Blouse of printed silk twill in orange and yellow squares. Center front opening with 7 gold plastic circular buttons and barred buttonholes. Long sleeves with cuffs having a single matching button. Ends of collar extend to form tie. Unlined.Ensemble.
a) Norell: Jacket of beige bias cut wool gaberdine. Double breasted with 6 basket weave covered fabric buttons and bound buttonholes; two interior black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Waist length, straight sides. Notched collar. Bracelet length sleeves with two functioning, matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Flap pockets at sides. Collar, front opening, sleeve hems and pocket flaps trimmed in black. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at left front opening: "Rich's / Specialty Shop"
b) Norell: Blouse of printed silk twill in orange and yellow squares. Center front opening with 7 gold plastic circular buttons and barred buttonholes. Long sleeves with cuffs having a single matching button. Ends of collar extend to form tie. Unlined.
c) Rech: Skirt of black wool. Narrow waistband with center back button and zipper below. Skirt gathers slightly into waistband. Pockets at sides. Fully lined.
Designer's label: "Synonyme / de georges rech paris"; "Made in France"
Fabric: "100% Woc / Laine, Wool, Wolle, Lana, / wol. / [care pictograms]"
2nd fabric/care tag sewn to first, primarily in French. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499015/
Pair of cream pumps. Designed with rounded toe, the shoes are of a cream mesh with embroidered with floral motifs, giving a lace effect. The high heel is covered in cream satin, and tapers to base.
Stamped inside: "Arsho for / Shoe Biz"
Stamped on soles: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in Spain" and "7 1/2 B" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114763/
- American Flag Shoes
"American Flag Shoes". The pair of shoes is of white leather and red and blue suede. Styled in a way reminiscent of bowling shoes, the white leather shoes have rounded toes, and red suede overlays at toe box, upwards in a strip from toebox to vamp, and around lower part of heel. Blue suede overlay stripes at side have star-shaped cut-outs to allow white leather to show through. Blue suede edging at top of upper and top of heel. Shoes lace-up at front, 5 holes per side. White shoe laces. Shoes are "flats", with 3/4" high heels.
Brand stamped on inside: "Flings"
Illegible stamp inside. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86959/
- Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
Bustier of a belly dancer's costume from the Banjara peoples of India. The bra-top of black cotton is embellished at front with silver coins and trimmed in multicolored cross stitch embroidery, mirror work, and Kangura patchwork appliqué. Plain black straps extend over shoulders and around back to tie. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277154/
Beret style hat of medium red simulated(?) reptile skin. Pieced crown of eight triangular panels and one half-round panel. Matching covered shank button at center of crown. Stiffened brim with twenty-four rows of horizontal burgundy topstitching. Burgundy grosgrain ribbon headband. Fully lined in gold metallic organza over white organza.
Retailer's label stitched at center of crown lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283738/
Beret style hat of crocheted black cording with golden flakes. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286808/
Beret of dark brown velvet. The soft, full crown is constructed of several pieces, all gathered into brown satin hatband. Hat is lined in cream silk(?) and has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Volk / Dallas".
Label of United Hatters, Cap, and Millinery Workers International Union sewn into lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39234/
- Bergère Hat
Black silk organza bergère-style hat. The hat has a floppy double-layer brim, the under brim of slightly stiffer black silk organza, overlaid with upper brim of same material. The low, circular crown is encircled at the base by a folded black ribbon, which ties at back and has trailing ends. Inside base of crown is band of black grosgrain ribbon.
Sewn into ribbon is designer label: "Galanos". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402479/
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of bright tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather.
Stamped on lining: "I52 5505 K"
Stamped on sole: "Hanan & Son / New York" around circular device "Trade Mark / Hanan". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277112/
Pair of black suede boots. Ankle-height boots of black suede, with pointed toes and decorative stitch accent at opening. Black suede tassel on heel from opening. 2 1/4" high "stacked" spike heel of black leather(?). Upper is lined in black leather, inner sole lined with red leather. Sole of dark brown leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Anne Klein / New York".
Stamped on sole: "Anne / Klein / Made in Italy / 7 1/2 / M" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39040/
- Bowling Shoes
Shoes of red, white, and blue leather. The shoes are designed as flats, with rounded toes. Toebox and tongue of red leather, the sides are of blue leather, and the heel and uppers are edged in wide bands of white. The shoes lace up the instep, with five holes. Believed to be bowling shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87021/
- Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of burnt ochre straw with burnt ochre grosgrain ribbon bow at back on brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Wide upward brim with alternating narrow bands of flat straw. Unlined with ochre grosgrain headband.
Designer's label on inside headband: " An Original / by Dajon / New York"
Size tag to left of designer's label: "22 1/2"
Union label: "565660" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276973/
- Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of gray straw with gray grosgrain ribbon bow edged with gray straw at back of high, upturned brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Unlined with gray grosgrain headband.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Valerie / Modes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276978/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black wool felt hat with swag overlay. Black passementerie trim and spotted black veiling. Fully lined in black silk. Black grosgrain ribbon headband.
Label stitched center back headband: "Francioni / Chapeaux / Zurich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283684/
Cap of ocher/dark yellow wool. Designed somewhat as a "watch cap", the hat has a high domed crown, which folds up at bottom to extends back upwards almost the entire height of the crown. Spaced top-stitching along upper edge. Unlined.
Designer's label inside: "Adolfo II / New York Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286911/
- Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of natural Milan straw. The low, cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and is encircled by a wide band of deep golden orange velvet with large bow at back. The wide, flat brim has stiffening at outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner straw-yellow grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402523/
Cloche of brown/rust/beige crochet. The cloche is of openwork crochet, with a high, domed crown, having a wide band at lower edge that is solid crochet. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286865/
Cloche hat of brown straw. The cylindrical crown is of Milan straw braid in a medium brown. The top of the crown is domed at center with a deep trough around inside of upper edge. The front of the crown is embellished with a hand-painted butterfly. Around the base of the crown is a wide band formed of inter-woven thin grosgrain ribbons in yellows, pinks, reds, blues, etc., around which is tied a loosely woven band of golden threads. Inner sides of crown are lined in a pink/coral/rose satin, with oval black satin panel sewn into inside top of crown lining.
Embroidered inside crown lining with golden yellow thread is unidentified monogram (A & I G?), and what may be brand name: "Pliz Hats / Distinctive Models / Chicago - New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39118/
Sleeveless coat of navy on white zebra printed wool. The street-length coat is of slight A-line, widening to hem. It has wide straps, no collar, and center front opening with 5 circular dark blue plastic buttons. At each hip is a patch pocket with simulated flap, the fabric of the pockets chosen to match the placement on the print. The coat is fully lined in navy fabric. Inside neckline at back is designer's label "Givenchy", folded so that "Made In / France" is not visible.
This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a blue wool jersey knit top and slacks. Donor noted that it was "Made for Monte Carlo for day wear". There is also a hat that was worn with the ensemble (1978.013.062) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30151/