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Texas Fashion Collection
Hat of black seal fur. Hat is brimless with short, flat crown. Round piece embroidered with black cording and decorated with tassels attached to back of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Designer's label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39086/
Hat of green felt. Wide, flat crown with upturned brim which is flattened at side. Around crown is wiide, dark green grosgrain ribbon bow which fills flattened area of brim. Around sides and front hang a black net veil; a second large, dark green grosgrain ribbon bow hangs off bottom of the brim at back. The hat is unlined, with a dark green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and an elastic cord for securing hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "Ruby Ross / 6 East 53rd St. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39085/
Shoes of brown snakeskin and green reptile. Designed with a very slightly pointed toe, the peep-toe toe-box is made of two pieces, the inner piece of brown snakeskin, the outer piece of green reptile, both edged with plaited border of two leathers, the snakeskin overlapping the reptile, forming a point. The toe with thick platform, the sides of which with three horizontal bands of leathers, green lower reptile, center band of plaited leathers, the upper of brown reptile. Open sides, the sling back formed with openwork interlaced leathers, secured with small gilt metal rectangular buckle. The set-in French high heel is covered in brown snakeskin, with vertical plaited band of colored reptile leather running vertically along back edge.
Stamped in both shoes: "ce qui se porte" / Gainsbourough / 1128 Lincoln Road / Miami Beach, FLA. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503736/
- Skirt Suit
Brown gabardine suit.
a) Suit jacket of brown gaberdine. Long sleeves. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons and bound buttonholes. Two faux flap pockets at yoke with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. Two lower hacking pockets with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. V-shaped yoke on back. Lined in rust colored silk.
No designer's label.
Retailer's label on inside center back neckline: "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia"
b)Skirt of brown gaberdine. A-lined shape with left side zipper. Kick pleat at center front seam. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286857/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of navy wool with white pinstripes consisting of:
A) Jacket of navy and white pinstripe wool. Double breasted with 4 circular navy blue buttons and covered buttonholes. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Padded shoulders. Horizontal, double welt pockets covered with flap at front left and right. Lined in navy silk.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Hattie Carnegie"
Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Union label at right inside seam.
b) White crepe blouse - not shown in photographs.
c) Skirt of navy wool. Slight A-line. Street length. Unlined.
Label at hem: "Spring 1946 / Hattie Carnegie / Size 10" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283666/
- Skirt Suit
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. Excellent example of chiaroscuro work.
A) Jacket with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures. A band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk.
At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Frost Bros. / San Antonio".
B) Straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations.
No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283717/
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations.
Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio".
Skirt: No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30093/
Turban style hat made of folds of black velvet. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Union / size label on inside headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39083/
- Wedding Dress
Wedding gown of ivory rayon satin with sweetheart neckline trimmed in a band of crimped rayon surrounded with pearl beads; fabric is gathered into seams below bust; long Juliet sleeves taper to wrist and have pointed end with satin button closure; pointed waistline with full-length skirt gathered into piped waistline; long train.
Accompanied by a beaded crown or circlet of white beaded flowers, and a veil of fine white tulle with half circle headband at crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283759/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style of off white felt with two bands that over-cross twice. Narrow upturned brim. Crown is covered in brown net which goes under hat bands to become veil in front. Hatpins with triangular heads of matching felt attach veil to hat. Spray of brown coque feathers as trim on right. Red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Hatpin with white pearl head attached to designer's label on inside hatband. Unlined.
Stamp on inside crown illegible.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Chandra" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114957/
- Cloche Hat
Cloche-style hat of tan straw cloth with pear green velvet ribbon around crown and bows on back. Unlined with pear green grosgrain inner hatband.
Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Millinery Salon / Pfeifers / of Arkansas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114910/
Evening dress of silk crepe for summer. The full-length dress has an A-line skirt of cocoa brown silk crepe and attached belt with pendant strap at front left. The bodice is of cream silk crepe printed with a "trompe l'oeil" ribbon motif below the rounded neckline. Darts at sides. Long, bat-wing style tapered sleeves. Center-back snap closure. Unlined.
Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283732/
Brown print silk dress with belt and umbrella.
A) Full-length silk dress printed with brown/white/black over-all pattern of large leaves or pinecones on stems. Wide, shallow neckline. Side zipper. Sleeveless, with sleeves edged with cut-out leaf shapes from the print. Hem with same treatment. A-line skirt. Unlined.
Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
B) Belt of same fabric, backed in cream leather, with rectangular, fabric-covered buckle.
C) Umbrella. Not pictured. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330483/
- Ensemble - Cape Coat and Dress
Two-piece wool tweed cape/coat street ensemble.
a) Cape coat of wool tweed in three shades of plum. Long, single-breasted coat with cape attached at shoulders. Four button closure with alternating bound buttonholes and supplemented with two hook & eyes. Two small double welt pockets on yoke and two larger double welt pockets at waistline. Coat dress portion is tailored at waistline with 3/4 length sleeves. Small turndown collar. Lined in rust brown colored silk faille.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / Original"
b) Straight skirt of matching wool tweed. Unlined. Zipper closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283698/
Hat of white straw. The low, domed crown is of finely woven white straw, encircled around the base with a wide band of red velvet ribbon, trimmed with gold braid along top edge. At the back, left side, the ribbon has an extended trailing end. At the front, the gold braid runs down the velvet ribbon in two strands, and crosses the brim to attach to a red velvet heart shape which is embellished with borders of pearls and braid, and a central heart shape made of gold bullion braid. The brim of the hat is of matching straw, curling slightly up at edge. Along the front half of the hat is a fine brown veiling. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown.
Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Pfeifers / of Arkansas".
A second label is sewn to the side of the retailer's label, with the initials "ADJ" within a rectangle, and the initials "[illeg]SC" below. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39168/
Hat of natural straw in boater style, with tiny brim and very shallow crown. Ochre velvet ribbon as trim around crown; wine colored small flowers on back where ribbon ends in bow; tan netting covers crown.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Irene / New York"
Retailer's label on inside hatband next to designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114829/
Woman's jacket of purple wool with asymmetrical curved inset at right shoulder. Two bound slit pockets below shoulder. Center front closure with 3 buttons and bound buttonholes. Two slit pockets at hips with an asymmetrical inset over left pocket.
Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283694/
- Skirt Suit
Woman's suit of brown wool gabardine.
a) Single breasted, jacket with rectangle motif carried throughout. Convertible collar with 3" points, and one under collar stop 2" from CF as shoulder yoke extends in a 2" wide rectangle parallel to collar edge. Shoulder yoke also extends to self-face the jacket, creating a 1"x 3" rectangle on the underside of the first bound button hold and button.
There are 4 brown buttons with three narrow bound button holes, the second button falling at bottom of rectangle yoke as a inseam button.
Pair of double welt slit pockets below shoulder within a rectangle of opposite grain within the larger rectangle in same grain as welt lips, with rectangle design lines extending over sleeve and top of it slip-stitched to mid-arm scythe.
Two parallel princess seams starting from lower rectangle yoke and front under arm seam run under 8" over-sized pocket flap, narrow to define width of 4" slit pocket. Over-sized bias pocket flap is 8" x 4" with 1 1/2" x 7" vertically center rectangle insert of opposite bias grain both starting from side seam.
Full length set in sleeves with one elbow dart at each under seam. At right sleeve's forearm starts a rectangle welt insert attached til 1 3/4" above cuff, where it floats above sleeve and continues as its own shape to cuff's edge and folds back 1" basted to itself. Lined in copper crepe silk.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in /British Samek Material"
(b) A-line skirt of matching fabric. One inch folded waistband with triangular tab at lapped left side zipper with snap at tip and 4 sets of hook & eyes on waistband. Two 4" darts on front and two 7" darts on back. Unlined with pinked seam edges. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283765/
- Skirt Suit
Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe.
a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille.
Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material"
(b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286814/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of blue/grey wool consisting of:
A) Jacket of navy wool. Jacket has 3/4 sleeves, slash pockets with button trim and welt buttonhole; wide shoulders; nipped-in waist; intricate inset back detail; half belt crisscross in back with button and welt buttonhole. Lined in navy silk.
Designer's label at inside back collar: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material"
(B) Skirt of same fabric. Mid-calf length; small back kick pleat at hem. Zipper closure. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283763/
- Skirt Suit
Navy daytime tailored two-piece suit in British Samek wool.
a) Suit jacket of navy British Samek wool. Center front opening with three circular, blue plastic buttons; welted buttonholes button suit jacket. Padded shoulders. Two patch pockets. Notched collar with squared shoulder yoke with matching button attached to square insert. Lined in eggplant crepe.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material"
Tag above designer's label: "A. Herod, Sr."
b) Slim straight skirt of navy British Samek wool. Folded waistband of same. Center back zipper with snap and 4 hook and eyes on waistband. Lined in navy blue silk.
Tag on inside waistband: "A. Herod, Sr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283769/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black English gabardine.
a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk.
Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus"
b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286829/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black silk faille. The two-piece skirt consists of a jacket and skirt. The jacket is of mid-hip length, with shawl collar, long sleeves, and center-front opening which secures with three circular buttons covered with black faille and embroidered with a stylized "M" or Scorpio symbol. At upper front collarbone area are two applied strips of black faille which form "tabs", and there are similar sewn-in patches of same. Front hip pocket, and another "tab" on other hip. The skirt is street length, with similar patches and tabs.
Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283761/
- Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of sling-back pumps of black calf leather. Shoes have a narrow platform and are open toe. Rounded throat on vamp, which is decorated with applied oval detailing in 3 layers. Center layer of black grosgrain, upper and lower layers of black leather. Oval cut-out in center of detail. Ankle-strap fastens with small rectangular black metal buckles. 3" black-lacquered French set-under heel similar to a spike form.
Handwritten in side of each shoe: "6 1/2 B / r28514 / 1510-6BF"
Stamped inside both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Capri / Last"
Stamped in left shoe: "Palter DeLiso inc / New York City"
Right shoe with inlaid woven cloth label: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114988/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat in muted pink velvet. Crown has narrow 1" down-turned brim, trimmed with velvet flowers and pink ostrich feathers. Netting of same color as trim. One large, clear rhinestone on side of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114961/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of deep rose colored velvet. Double upturned brim with one velvet flower on left front. One large hatpin with head of large and small pearls separated by a band of rhinestones. Coordinating front veil. Lined in gold metallic fabric with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Label on inside crown: "Irene / of New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305370/
Daytime coat of camel brown/tan wool. Street-length or longer, with rounded shawl collar. Double breasted with 6 large circular black silk faille-covered buttons in two vertical rows of 3 each; bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two small circular black plastic buttons inside. Two slit. Double welt pockets at sides. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs showing black silk faille lining. The coat is lined in black silk, with wide bands of black silk faille at cuffs, collar, and sides of opening.
Combined retailer's and designer's label at inside back neck: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330435/
- Cocktail Ensemble
Cocktail ensemble of heavy black silk faille, consisting of:
A) Dress. Long dress, sleeveless, narrow straps, rounded neckline, higher in front. Slightly raised waist. Left side zipper. Very full skirt gathered into waist.
Designer's label at inside skirt side seam: "Traina-Norell / New York"
B) Jacket. Waist length jacket with rounded collar, short, highly puffed "pumpkin" sleeves which gather into shoulders. Center front opening with four black covered buttons. Flares from waist.
Designer's label at inside back collar: "Traina-Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461812/
- Derby Hat
Hat in derby style of navy felt. Edge of crown trimmed in wide bands of navy, gray and red yarn with very narrow gold thread knots tied to tasseled ends of yarn bands. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Maker/retailer's label: "A / Neiman / Marcus / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305382/
- Dinner Dress
Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined.
Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330492/
Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of:
A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels.
B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk.
Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie"
National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283689/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of champagne peau de soie. Princess style. Sweetheart neckline in front, with small horizontal pleats at front left and right princess seaming at upper part of bust; back neckline is low and rounded. 1-1/2 inch wide shoulder straps that split in front to form an inverted Y, with horizontal band of same fabric at dividing point. Natural waist. Skirt is below knee length, at at hips has three almost horizontal bias folds which extend to from hip center back and join to form bow; lower sash ends of the bow attach to skirt to form "bustle drape", giving added fullness. Attached net petticoat gathered to taffeta yoke; back zipper.
Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503759/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of bright brown satin and black velvet. Form fitted bodice of brown satin narrows at waist and dips to a center front seam, where fabric is gathered and drapes down to full-length skirt; black velvet skirt surrounds CF fabric and creates a fullness at hips.
Handwritten cloth tape label in skirt: "Charles James 47"
Accompanied by a brassier, not shown in photo.
Designer's Label: "This is an original / Madame Adrienne / 35 other pat. pend. / pat. 3072879" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30228/
Hat of gray felt. The hat is styled as a man's fedora. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Hat is unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head.
Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York", with size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39045/
- Fedora Hat
Fedora style hat of gray felt. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head.
Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York"
Size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276994/
Hat of burgundy red velvet. Sailor-style hat has 2 1/2" high crown of burgundy velvet, with narrow, 1 1/2" flat brim of same. The side of the crown is wrapped in magenta colored ostrich feathers, which cover the sides of the crown and the brim. At front of hat is half-veil of maroon mesh accented with chenille dots. Inside of crown lined with green floral-pattern lace, with dark maroon velvet around sides of crown, and under brim. Around inside base of crown is an inner headband of dark red maroon grosgrain ribbon.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chanda".
Accompanied by a short hatpin mounted with large simulated pearl at head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39204/
Hat of gray felt. Styled similarly to a fedora, the hat has a high cylindrical crown with the top of the crown sunken in slightly. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at side. The medium-width brim slants down slightly at front, and turns up slightly at back. Hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown.
Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Norma's / Creations / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39166/
Hat of black felt with pillbox crown. Wide brim ends at back of crown and folds up into pointed ends. Veil of net on top of brim. Black grosgrain ribbon bow on back of crown.
Designer's label on inner hatband: "Valerie / Modes / New York"
Union label partly behind designer's label: "782234" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114815/
Open crown hat with olive green straw encircling front visor and headband. Ochre velvet draped over visor decorated with small white, bell-shaped flowers.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Kenneth Hopkins Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114814/
Cloche hat of gray felt with upturned front brim. Pewter/gray glass beads on wire trim encircle crown with perpendicular lines off left and right down brim.
Label in inside hatband: "Regalle" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39155/
Pair of black suede pumps. Shoes have peep-toe design and are embellished across the vamp with an asymmetrical design in black ribbon and side 1/2 bow on outer side. 2 1/2" high continental set-in heels covered in black suede. Leather soles, grey leather lining. Printed grey cloth lining with logo "Lastep".
Stamped inside heel of both shoes: "D13258 7 1/2A AAA / 6/A".
Stamped on sole of each shoe: "The United States Shoe Co. / Reg U.S. Pat. Off. / Red Cross / Shoe"
Stamped inside right shoe: "Red Cross Shoes" and "This product has no connection whatever / with the American National Red Cross".
Use of the "Red Cross Shoe" brand was suspended during World War II when the American Red Cross objected. It was re-instated in 1948 on the condition they company publicly disclaimed all connection with the ARC. These shoes have the disclaimer stamped in the right shoe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30206/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of chocolate wool with velvet cuffs.
A) Fitted jacket of chocolate wool in woven, checked pattern. Single breasted with 5 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar of brown velvet with self fabric lapels. Long sleeved with turn-up cuff of brown velvet and two small self covered buttons and bound buttonholes on each sleeve. Lined in brown taffeta.
Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell
B) Skirt of chocolate wool in woven, checked pattern. Wide, flared A-line with 10 panel construction. 1 1/2" waistband with center back lapped zipper and hook & eye closure at waistband. Lined in brown taffeta. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330426/
- Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit (jacket and skirt) of dark brown wool consisting of:
Jacket. Single breasted with notched lapel. The center front opening is slightly angled from top left to lower right and has three circular, dark brown, plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves have three nonfunctional, smaller, matching buttons with tailored buttonholes at hem. Torso tapers to fitted, natural waist and flares to hips. Vertical, double welt, very shallow side pockets. Lapel, center front opening and hem of sleeves trimmed in thin, black piping. Princess seaming. Lightly padded shoulders. Lined in black silk jacquard with repeated "Jean Dessés" pattern.
Skirt. Street length; slightly A-lined. Designed to appear as a wrapped skirt with diagonal opening from left hip to right side hem with five nonfunctional buttons matching jacket, and tailored buttonholes. At center front, from knee height to left side hem, is simulated opening backed by same fabric. Opening has black piping matching jacket. Left side zipper with two hook & eyes on narrow waistband. Lined in black silk, with exception of front panel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501366/
- Coat Dress
Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket.
Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original"
Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949"
Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas"
Belt of matching navy leather.
Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283699/
- Cocktail Dress
A) Cocktail dress of blue silk satin. Sleeveless with spaghetti straps of same. Set-in waist which scallops at bottom hem and attaches to panels of full skirt. Tea length. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in black tulle.
Combined retailer/designer label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell"
B) Belt of same with rectangular, self covered buckle. 1/2 inch wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402569/
- D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede.
Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear"
The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30078/
Lady's gray felt hat. Styled along the lines of a fedora, the gray felt crown is basically cylindrical with dished top and some shaping to provide a front "prow". Set at top edge of crown at back is a bow of matching gray felt ribbon. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of matching grosgrain ribbon as hatband. The shallow brim is set off-center, wider at front and sides than back. Brim curves down. Inside of hat is unlined, but has inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon.
Maker's stamp on inner hatband: [Coat of arms] Stetson / Fifth Avenue"
Retailer's stamp on inner hatband: "W. A. Green Co. / Dallas, Tex."
Size tag sewn to inner hatband: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39102/
Hat of dark blue wool felt with pillbox-style crown and stiffened downward brim. Trimmed with wide grosgrain ribbon and shaped net.
Designer's label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39221/
Pamela or halo style hat of tan ballibuntt straw with brim folded back. Narrow cream colored hatband and netting/veil with small daisies decorate brim. Lined.
Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114898/
Hat of dark beige and cream felt. Designed as a modified Breton hat, the low, domed crown of dark beige felt is encircled by a cream velvet tube through which are strung four large dark beige braided flower-head forms. The circular brim is turned up, forming a "wall" around the crown. The brim is overlaid with a narrow band of black lace net veiling, with scattered "fuzzies" on some of the intersections. The underside of the brim is lined in cream velvet. The crown is unlined, and there is a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330410/