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 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1940
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1940/1959
Creator: Palter DeLiso
Description: Single pump of brown and white suede. Designed as a sling-back spectator pump, the shoe has a 1/4" high brown leather platform and a rounded open toe. The toe box is of brown suede, and is decorated with scrolling lines of perforations, and has a border of perforations. The rest of the upper is of white suede, with an upper border of perforations, is cut-away a the heel, and has a single strap that goes around back of heel and secures with a and a small buckle. The 3 3/4" high heel is covered in brown leather, and tapers to base. Designer's label: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" 2nd Designer's label: "Palter De Liso / Capri / Last" Handwritten notation: "6 1/2B / S469b5 / 7410-2 BH" ONE ONLY - for left foot.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1940
Creator: Delman
Description: Pumps of dark brown suede and brown alligator. Designed with a rounded toe, the uppers are of dark brown suede with toe-cap and heels of brown alligator. The modified Cuban heel is covered with brown alligator. Designer's stamp in left shoe: "Delman / Made entirely by hand" Retailer's stamp in right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Handwritten note in each shoe: "2P67046 54 / 8a"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1940
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of shoes of navy blue suede with an oval toe. The vamp has a single wide strap buttoned at the side. Lined in cream leather which shows as thin edging on exterior of shoe. The medium height modified continental heel is covered in the same suede.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1940~
Creator: unknown
Description: Shoes of purple satin with silver kid leather trim. The shoes combine the closed heel and cut-away sides of a d'Orsay pump with the open strap-work vamp of a sandal. They have an ankle strap which secures with a small rectangular buckle, and which connected to the vamp via a strap which runs along the top of the foot. The high, modified French heel is covered with purple satin. Retailer's label stamped in both shoes: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1940/1950
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material. The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe. Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original" The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1940~
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Skirt suit of brownish grey worsted wool in black, white, and warm grey. Jacket of self-worsted wool with notched collar and rounded lapels that extend beyond collar; open front trimmed in half-circle lapels at opening with brass disc button accents; 4 buttons on each side decreasing in diameter to bottom; wide, elbow-length sleeves with 3” cuffs; small shoulder pads within; fully lined in brown chiffon; waist-length. Skirt of matching self-worsted wool is gored with long reverse pleat at center-front surrounded by 2 shorter reverse pleats at each side; slight A-line; hits below knees. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Original customer label(?): "James L. Courtney"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sling-Back Evening Pumps

Sling-Back Evening Pumps

Date: 1940
Creator: Delman
Description: Pair of heeled sling-back evening pumps of silvered and painted leather. Designed with somewhat sharply rounded open toes, the shoes have an all-over design of yellow hand-painted "scales" on the silvered leather that look as if large silver scrolls are applied over a ground of yellow/golden scales. The vamp has a central hole surrounded by a ring of 8 applied silvered leather discs with a cluster of hand-painted yellow dots at center of each. The edge of vamp is cut in a gentle "pointed arch" shape. Ankle strap of plain silvered leather, secured with oval gilt metal buckle set with tiny rhinestones. The 2 1/4" boulevard heel is covered with the same hand-painted silvered leather as the rest of the shoe. Designer's stamp in right shoe: "Delman / New York Chicago London Paris" Retailer's stamp in left shoe: "Bergdorf / Goodman" Handwritten in each shoe: "B80784 / S9474Sx / 5 vN / 821"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sling-Back Pumps

Sling-Back Pumps

Date: 1940~
Creator: Palter DeLiso
Description: Pair of black patent leather sling back pumps. Designed with slightly pointed rounded peep toes, the vamps are composed of two triangular panels of leather which join at points on instep, the join a diamond-shape of leather with circular center hole. The peep toe and the throat edged in black grosgrain ribbon. The sides near the toe-box are cut low, and flair back into the sling-back strap, which has a small black rectangular buckle. Modified French heel is covered with same black patent leather, and tapers almost to a thick "spike" heel shape. Designer's stamps inside shoes: Left shoe: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" Both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Dresden Last" Retailer's label sewn into right shoe: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" Handwritten maker's notation inside each shoe: "6 1/2 B / S 42947 / 1521-9BH ."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sling-Back Pumps

Sling-Back Pumps

Date: 1940~
Creator: Palter DeLiso
Description: Pair of sling-back pumps of brown suede. Designed with somewhat "sided" toe - tapering along sides to a flattened curve at tip - the toes have a small triangular opening creating a peep toe. The toe-box has a 3/8" high platform, and is decorated with copper-colored stitching forming a grid set on the diagonal, the squares formed each containing a copper stud of either X or Circular shape. Throat of vamp cut to a gentle point. Plain sides sweep up to sling-back strap, which has small brown shaped buckle. The almost 3" high French heel is covered in the same brown suede. Designer's stamps inside shoes: Left shoe: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" Both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Capri Last" Retailer's label sewn into right shoe: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" Handwritten maker's notation inside each shoe: "6 1/2 B / S6403 / 2410-2BW"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1940/1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Suit of light brown vicuña consisting of: a) Tent coat. Thigh-length; notched collar. Center front opening with no closure. Side front vertical, double welt pockets. Back tucks from shoulder; half sleeves. Fully lined in copper brown silk. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Vicuna" Tag at inside left lining: "Consumer / Protection Label / VKG / Manufactured Under / Fair Labor Standards" and "National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry / 181527" b) Skirt. Lower part of light brown vicuña matching coat and upper part of light brown cotton with elastic gathered waist. Knee length. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: unknown
Description: Toque hat of gray felt. The high, cylindrical crown of gray felt flares very slightly to the flat top, which is cut on a slant, and is higher at front than back. The top panel is inset, forming a "ridge" of the top edge. The lower edge is also on a slant, with inner band of same felt extending slightly below the crown. The inner band is cut to form a pointed arch at front. No brim. The hat is unlined, but has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co. / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Turban

Turban

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Turban style hat of black and pink striped satin with stuffed stand up pleated pouf in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché Paris / 78 East 58th St. New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1941
Creator: Florence
Description: Hat of beige netting. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with low, domed crown made of layers of beige net ruffles, with hemmed edges. Designer's label inside: "Florence ... / Dallas".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1941~
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening gown of rose pink silk. Full-length, sleeveless, with sweetheart neckline and thin satin cord double-straps at each shoulder. Bodice with fan-shaped radiating seaming from center line outwards over each cup, but not meeting at center point - left side starting higher than right. Raised waist, into which skirt is gathered. From sides, towards front, and down along sides of front is "fin" of same fabric, which extends out, with slight "ruffle" effect to edge. Center back zipper closure. Part-lined in very pale peach/pink fabric (bust, upper abdomen, etc. Retailer's label inside skirt at side seam, partly printed, partly hand-written: "Bergdorf-Goodman / Fifth Ave., New York / Mrs. R. Lloyd / Date: 10/13/41 No. 17313"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Shoes

Evening Shoes

Date: 1941~
Creator: Haggerty, Nancy
Description: Pair of evening shoes of cream satin and gold leather trim. Designed as modified heeled sandals, the shoes have a rounded, open toe, and toe-box formed of four rounded "petals" of satin that rise up from the sides and join at top of toe-box. The "petals" are edged in gold leather, and have cut-outs between. Open sides, and straps around ankles and instep secured by small rectangular gold-colored buckles set with small rhinestones. Wide strap at back of heel. Satin covered heel is a modified boulevard heel, with rounded sides, slight waist, and curved front. Designer's stamp, left and right shoe: "Nancy Haggerty / Shoes Inc / New York" Handwritten in both shoes: "820X - Gold / 4 1/2 C / X6297"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1941
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of blue felt with upturned brim covered in white straw. Large domed crown covered in blue net. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
D'Orsay Pumps

D'Orsay Pumps

Date: 1941~
Creator: Frank Brothers Footwear, Inc.
Description: Evening pumps of black suede and rhinestones. Designed as D'Orsay pumps with rounded toes and cut-away sides. The toebox is of openwork with peep-toe, set with tiny multicolored rhinestones bordering the cut-outs. The sides of the heels similarly decorated. The ankle straps with small gilt metal rectangular buckles set with matching stones. Thick, modified Parisian heel covered with black suede. Stamped in right shoe: "Frank Brothers / Footwear inc. / New York" Stamped in left shoe: "Sophistecrat"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: [1941..1946]
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Black wool two-piece skirt suit. A) Jacket. Just below hip-length, with center front opening with three hook-and-eye closures. Faux tie of same fabric at waist. Slight collar, and v-neckline. Thin orange/red inset line across front and up to shoulders. Long sleeves with inset orange/red panels along length of sleeves, with cording detailing and zipper closures at cuffs. Slit pockets just below waist. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of matching black wool. Street length. Possibly a replacement for the original skirt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1941/1945
Creator: Forstmann
Description: Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels. There are three labels in the coat: Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co." Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas" Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit

Suit

Date: 1941/1949
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Late day three-piece suit of black velvet. a) Jacket in modified bolero style with squared bottom corners. Long sleeves with 5" wide cuffs of heavy, white, open cut lace. Lined in cream satin. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" b) Blouse of white linen. Sleeveless. Collar of 6-1/2" wide lace matching cuffs of jacket. Tie of black ribbed silk attaches to collar with hook & loops. Center front opening with 5 small, circular white pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes reinforced with a snap at the neckline and a hook & eye at the waistline. Half-inch pin tucked front. c) Skirt of black velvet. Slight A-line with a 4" purple silk satin cummerbund waistband. Waistband is reinforced with boning and black grosgrain petersham. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk crepe.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Dress

Child's Dress

Date: 1942
Creator: Alesta, Bertie
Description: Child's dress of blue cotton batiste with white embroidery. Short, puffed sleeves with rolled cuff and white embroidered scalloped edges. Rounded neckline with white embroidered scalloped edges. Small pin tuck pleats at front shoulders; center front is embellished with embroidery in scroll and floral motif. Center front opening of six white buttons (one missing) and barred buttonholes.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1942
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of natural-colored straw. The domed crown is of patterned woven straw, forming a lace effect. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of light brown grosgrain ribbon, with a bow and trailing ends. The wide brim, of matching straw, curves upwards. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of light brown grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of the crown. There are no labels or tags in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1943
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte of black felt with brown mink trim around front and sides. Quilted crown. Black grosgrain inner hatband; unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "The Fair / Fort Worth"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design